I'm using oem. Just make sure the PSI rating is the same then you should be fine.

Ours is small head with 1.1 PSI, right? I will check the price with Proton & OEM, if not much different, then will go with original.

Still it happened. Maybe what you can do is monitor closely by installing an OBD monitor on water temp.

how many km u change ur thermostat?

anyway i did change my mounting did see much improvement on idle vibration. like new car haha

78°C or 85°C thermostat? For car that old like ours, might need to check ignition coil also. The ignition boot of campro IAFM cracked easily and can be replaced cheaply.
Final thing about it is heat. If you can identify coolant temperature range when breathlessness occurs, it'll be helpful.

How much to change timing belt and water pump these days? Time flies so fast, already 3 years since I had mine changed. Last time I was charge RM500 for parts and labor.

Mine 2011, just passed 90k.. Absorbers started to give up already...

You guys absorber tahan lama also. i think my absorber was changed prematurely.

Mounting rosak that time. kedai tayar try phyco me absorber also kong. i changed to a KYB one.

Original one, the last 10% of rebound not as good. i keep it in my boot till today.

currently my front mounting, absorber ,absorber link , engine mounting and drive shaft already replaced.

Thats all for now.

Lately my brake macam press after long drive lembut. i just flushed + service . now better but maybe out of 10 long drive 1 time still kena . not sure need to replace master pump or not.

Is it just me or everyone else here feels our Persona is falling apart?

Recently my dashboard's battery sign appears during accelerating uphill and occasionally appeared while driving. Anyone encounter the same thing and know how to solve this? Thanks a lot.

How much is for change of starter? Buy shopee any good? My mechanic is under the tree type of mechanic, guy much prefer if I buy part before sending the car.

how long it lasts so far? scared use not original part will become faulty just in short time end up spend more.

i for sure now won't use non original tensioner.

Your alternator die on second year ? ...that is too fast...
When my car get into flood, the workshop i send my car change the alternator with not sure what brand of alternator (cost me RM580), it can only last for 16 DAYS...
how i know there is problem ?...Symptom; My NEW BATTERY become FLAT...
After that i go back to the workshop upgrade the alternator because it still under warranty and they upgrade to Mitsubishi alternator (add another RM100)...
It just past 1 year and 2 moths...still monitoring how long this new alternator can last...hope it can last for several years at least...

NTN bearing available, should be good enough.

I change my rear left bearing brand NTN when my car mileage at 307,000++km somewhere in 2022...
Only change one side cost me RM240...
The workshop told me the best is to change both rear side but i decide to change only one side...
The original bearing can last 12 years (2010-2022)
Now i think the other side of the bearing start giving sound..
But i just let it be...
Once the sound become worst only i change...
My mantra on my car "Don't change the part unless IT REALLY NEED TO BE CHANGE... ":idea:

Change both sides. If one is faulty, the other side is bound to be faulty soon.

Yeah... That's how i learned original part and OEM branded part are not the same even we can identify OEM manufacturer.

Now on Gvolt.

I tend to agree on both sides. After all no ones buy single side of slippers right? 😆

But yeah it's very common in Malaysia to change faulty side only as our cost of time and worksmanship permit this logic.

No right and wrong. Just matter of preference.

To be honest I still feel my car powerful
Regularly change plug, filter.
Service tb twice.
5w30 engine oil
Once in awhile use techron cleaner.
220km
9.5 years ownership

haha this 2 years only start tracking
Minimum 1 to 1.5k yearly haha.
spark plug 30 if not mistaken ( i svc at protong)
ATF usually 20-30k km (1 to 1.5 years)
5w30 petronas ok la not leaking yet.
usually if leak , head gasket. common problem hahaha.
if use 5w30 near 10k km also pancit liao hahahha.
Once change back new oil. vroooooom

Try unscrew it, lay the membrane nice nice, and screw back nicely. Last time when i had a leaky brake fluid reservoir, it was because of the cap wasn't screwed in with proper alignment to the thread. It looks normal but you will feel the difference when you unscrew & screw back properly.

If all is still the same, i guess you have to change the cap. It's available on shopee.

Thing with booster is there's a diaphragm inside which if soaked long in brake fluid, it'll go bad.

I'll go for a check first, then depends on situation or wallet decide if you want TRW or Original. As long as rubber component involved, i believe original is better. But no wrong to go OEM one, TRW is reliable brand.