guys , what's the difference between liqui moly toptec ? synthoil ? molygen ? they are all fully synthetic oil , right ? I'm looking for fully synthetic oil now for my persona ... Or any brand suggestion for fully synthetic oil ? I have been using shell helix semi synthetic all this while , i can feel the engine sound is quite rough

That car engine does't need expensive full synth oil like Liqui Moly. Just buy whatever branded full synth on promotion in Giant/Tesco/AEON like Shell/Castrol/Mobil/Mitsu Eneos, more than enough.

I am gonna drive the car for next 10++ yrs, so I think I should take good care of the engine... I know the wear and tear of the suspension is unavoidable.. I just want to make sure that the engine is in good condition.. The price of fully synthetic of liqui moly is not much diffrent from the price of shell fully, I am thinking of getting liqui moly instead. Coz I heard that there are many fake shell eo in the market...

This post has been edited by delsoo: May 19 2018, 06:45 PM

If by Shell fully you mean to say Helix Ultra, I'm afraid it has far far superior OEM approvals and specifications than most, if not all of the LM variants above combined.
Btw, I have had mineral oils in wira for upto 23 years and running, and in Avanza for upto 10 years plus and running.

This post has been edited by zeng: May 19 2018, 07:16 PM

Bro the engine is the least of your worries, the engine is normally the most robust part of the car... just use any good oil and follow proper maintenance is ok already.
It's the other parts connected to the engine which most likely kaput first.

To me the cooling system is more important than the engine oil.. engine can run even if oil leaking... but coolant leaking, bye-bye engine.

My cars are 13 years and 8 years old respectively, no worries on the engine.. other parts hard to say, see luck.

Regarding with the coolant part, should I change the coolant? I am not sure it's 100% coolant inside the radiator..... I heard that using the water will cause the radiator to rust.....?

If not sure, please change. Do not, I repeat, do not/never use only water in the cooling system despite what many unqualified mechanics tell you.
A mix of water and coolant is a must, the coolant has anti rust properties and prevent rust.

But you don't need to use 100% coolant lah... I know some manufacturer sell pre-mix, which are basically coolant already mix with water at correct ratio (can get expensive if you need many bottles)
Anyway i use 2-3 bottles of coolant and the rest i top up with water. But even 1 bottle of coolant i found good enough to prevent rust, normally i add extra 1 bottle to be sure.

delete.. double post

This post has been edited by unitron: May 19 2018, 08:21 PM

Where to get Eneos nowadays?

Either you call Mayshowa and ask for authorised Eneos dealers or shop for Mitsubishi engine oils at Aeon. Or you could try your luck in lazada/shopee

should try this wolver fully syntetic 5w30 ultratec ..mine been using more than 7000km still light the car..(search facebook for Wolver Oil Malaysia)they are giving free shipping

Can use any original fully syn engine oil as long as you change it often like every 7500 km or 10000 km or 6 month whichever comes first.

Mitsu not bad la! Some marcili owners Ben using it also. U want more branded oil, I recommend chemlube!

Tech Plus 5W40 from Aeon Big performs well for 12,000 km in Myvi 1.5, according to my friend's blotter spot test.

why legacy persona's campro engine which is so reliable also need headache on engine oil? just pour in any reputable engine oil semi-syn or fully-syn if you wishes it will works without complain. tho, engine coolant issue or iafm noise are the most common engine related issue i've observed for this engine. almost never heard ppl mentioning sludge problem or overhaul work.

still prefer liqui moly haha , what's the difference between synthoil ? top tec ? molygen ?

Haha ok its up to you lor, coz its your money anyway. Using such expensive oil on your engine is actually a waste of money, just like using RON 97 on a Myvi for example. Also if you buy from reputable sellers, it will be genuine oil. Liqui Moly also only sold in independent workshops so there's no guarantee they don't sell fakes. If you really want to spend that much though, might as well buy Amsoil, more proven. Price might be slightly cheaper but maybe a bit more difficult to find.

I am using shell helix semi now, can feel that the engine is quite light, but sound rough.....

Synthoil is their only fully synthetic from Group4. Due to lesser compatibility, its formula is 'older'. API SM

Toptec is their latest flag ship fully synthetic from Group3. (mid to low SAPS) API SN

High Tech is their previous flag ship fully synthetic from Group3 as well. (high SAPS) API SN

Molygen no idea besides having a green dye and has nothing to do with moly. API SN

MoS2 is their solid (powder in mineral oil) lubricants additives. They have premixed semi-synthetic & mineral with MoS2. API SL


Though they claimed API SL/SM/SN on sticker, the only official product line with API SN are Special Tec AA.

This post has been edited by dstl1128: May 20 2018, 11:45 PM

All new Protons are filled with 100% coolant in the radiator before they leave the factory.
For best results you should only refill 100% coolant. Do not dilute with distilled water, etc.

There is no need to flush the radiator too often. (Just do it once every 5 years or 60k km whichever comes first)
As a rule of thumb, just flush the radiator when you change the timing belt/water pump.
Btw, you will need many bottles of coolant for this. Around 4-5 bottles I think.

Otherwise, just top up the coolant (if necessary) during the regular scheduled service.

Btw, for engine oil, the best choice is Petronas Syntium 800 10W-40 (Synthetic blend).
This is the engine oil recommended by Proton. It may be slightly thick but it suits the Campro engine.



This post has been edited by Alan Andrews: May 21 2018, 01:29 PM

Last time used petronas synthium forgot which model for my saga flx during warranty period serviced at proton sc.. car was heavy and rough engine idle and fc was very poor..

After warranty period tried Fosser fully syn at friend's shop.. engine is smooth, fc is good and no rough idle.. Tried that because its said German made

This post has been edited by naveenkalai7: May 21 2018, 06:17 PM

Semi synthetic or fully?

campro engine roar is loud as they want to mimic sport cars ala Lotus Gen2 (1st campro engine car). There's no engine oil can reduce as much as 10dB, except do loads of soundproofing

Haha, compared to my old saga which has Mitsubishi engine, the sound of campro is quite loud....

Untuk shiok sendiri, have a read.

i would highly recommend more reading on the comment section as well

I am wondering 5w40 suitable for my car or not... The manual stated 10w30 btw.... Some ppl advice me to use xw40 as I travel highway quite often.....

strange, that manual must be from Campro CPS variant, as that time CPS engine oil recommended 10W30 while legacy Campro specify 20W50.

Dunno oh, it's stated in the persona manual btw

This post has been edited by delsoo: May 23 2018, 07:20 AM

is yours Persona SV (Sacrificed Value)? Maybe later batch they just share same engine oil spec in manual with CPS CFE variant

HDEO kan ada

So what is the suitable oil spec? 😂

Exactly. Engine easy to take care but some ppl neglect cooling system..gearbox maintenance.

any reputable engine oil from xxW30 to xxW40 will do. for xxW30 I'm personally preferred fully-synthetic oil.

unless you rev your car to RED line everytime you drive, you don't really need full synthetic engine oil. Save the money to upgrade your car better

I'm using Amsoil. Saga BLM.

Using the signature series, fully synthetic all the way

Starting from 0W-30, to 0W-40, to 10W-50, then overhaul,
then now using 0W-40.

Mileage 305000 km, 8 years car, i drive my car very hard.

I highly recommend, check it out.

You clearly don't derserve your car.

I pity your car... ...

Trust me when i say that this has NOTHING to do with your engine oil.

What brand fuel u using? Spark plugs change before? Fuel filter change before?
Intake air filter change before? got change belt-tensioner-bearing when change timing belt?
Whats the mileage? overhaul before? Intake manifold service before?
Engine mounting condition good?

All my questions above affect engine noise. Go check.

Got 2 types of coolent bro:

1) PRE-mix type : these already mix 50/50 with water for you when bottling, no need add water. Just pour in.

2) CONCENTRATED type : These YOU need to mix 50/50 with water before you put into radiator.


No such thing as 100% coolant in your radiator lah bro... ...

Dun confuse other people.

This post has been edited by BelaCHAN: May 24 2018, 01:10 AM

Hahaha well I have owned and maintained various cars for more than 30 years and all this while none of my cars have complained. My current 10 year old car still returns FC as per the spec sheet reaching over 700km/tank, still able to accelerate 0-100 in around 7 secs and reach top speed in excess of 240kph, engine metal all still in shiny pristine clean condition and sounds smooth like butter.

I pity you for wasting your money unwisely!

that guy only drive saga blm..sembang like he is an expert. if send car to sc also they didnt use expensive oil..but regular service (including others) the engine can last long enough.

Hahaha IC, anyway I can see already how much (or little) he knows about cars from that comment so yeah never mind then.

Don't play play! Maybe his saga can do century sprint in 4 sec! I only pay attention to FC when my car suddenly consumed more than usual! Otherwise, not so free to monitor! Lol!

Brather, give chance lah =D

If you need to own a bungalow to know how to tidy up and upkeep a bungalow,
i think most maids would be out of business dy loh;

But then again maids are everywhere...
according to your logic maybe all of them do own multi million bungalows and apartments... ...

Good for you! Keep it up!


Huhu, use case bro, use case.

Heard of "Penny wise, Pound foolish"? =D
You can also argue "A penny saved is a penny earned",

so we're not both entirely right, neither entirely wrong,
cause NEITHER of us put up our use case and calculations

Cheers!

Engine sound rough, is inherent in the engine and its parts, nothing to do with the oil.

Since, the Persona is not a high performance car, right spec Mineral oil will do. Any oil with XXw-40 will do. Change it according to Proton's recommended interval, every 6 months or 10k km.

If you want better protection, for the occasional, sprint, semi synthetics would be better.

Synthetic oil is overkill for a Proton. But, if you have a lot of money or if company is paying for maintenance, synthetics.

i'm not the one who said "you don't deserved a car".

If within 6 months, the mileage still not yet reach5k km, need to change oil also?

Are u a rookie car owner?

Yes

Engine oil,based on mileage la! No hard rules of the change frequency. The norm is 5k or 15 k mileage. Depend on the grade of oil used!Hope this help! Btw, google is a very good helper!

my gen2 extended till 9-10 months, no problem so far. Modern engine and engine oil are less prone to sludge, unless u using those API SG mineral oil.

I using Synthium 800 10W-40. But at petronas ** some mesra branch sell cheaper than other branch ** must survey.

Till now ok. Travel often, most highway... so yea. 2 months 5000 km than I changed. Maybe near future I don't travel that much, changed 6 month or 7500km...

Cheap only. I got around 100 - 110 MYR after rebate.

Shell helix fully all the way. Gaint promotion sell at 99.90 or 129. Laat time gaint offer 99.90 i sapu 4 bottles. Can tahan a year or 2. Lol confirm ori also

That is 5w40,right? Persona manual stated 10w30.... 5w40 suitable?

Why did you overhaul?

Compression Loss and "1Liter engine oil loss per 5000km" through the valve, at the 260K km mark =D

When opened engine top (head), found 4 valve seats (out of 12) badly worn off.

Had to change the whole engine top.

Foreman noted highly likely spark plugs too hot. I could agree.
Nothing to do with engine oil, everything inside the engine was pristine, except the worn valve seats.

Stock plugs are temp range 6, the platinum iridium i was using temp range 7.
Coupled with frequent sustained High Speed highway runs over the years
(consistently in excess of 160km/h, KL to Penang,Terengganu,JB),
valve seat gave way =D

Now using stock plugs, but change more often =D

This post has been edited by BelaCHAN: May 25 2018, 12:44 AM

No need fully synthetic engine oil for your Proton Persona.. Liquy Moly MOS2 already good enough even for my previous dugong.. did tried all kind of fully synthetic oil, still Liquy Moly MOS2 better then most of it.. maybe some actually better but its just too expensive (which cost rm200+ only for engine oil)

The most important is consistently change engine oil at right time or mileage whichever come first.. not by using very expensive engine oil and forgot to change it past the due date or mileage..

Ahhhh, plat iridium which brand?
No picture when overhaul being carried out?


Back to topic, IMO.
Fully syn, is good for longer OCI others benefits quite minimal.
Semi syn is definitely better for your oil seals than mineral.
If we gonna talk oil, is gonna be long process what is good and not.
Base oil, additive, OCI, filters & etc.

Just stick to your budget, monitor your oil and change your oil when is due.

If 6 months, cant reach 5k km, use mineral oil. You would be saving money

However, if you drive mainly town driving, meaning: lots of idling waiting in traffic, crawling speeds. Semi syn may provide you with more protection

For your case, synthetics are a waste of money. Like Top range Nike shoes for yoga. But, it is up to you.

Bosch Platinum iridium.

I would like to stress its NOT the issue of the spark plug, it was LIKELY the temp rating.
The bosch plat plugs were literally too hot for my use case =D


Nah, as i mentioned, changed the WHOLE engine top!

Valve seats can be repaired, but not cost effective, and longevity not guaranteed,
so went ahead to change the whole block.


EXACTLY =D I travel on average 4500km every month. Imagine a visit to the mechanic EVERY month... ... ...

FYI, on amsoil, i run 20000 (you read right: 20 thousand km) OCI =D


Agree. There no such thing as TOO GOOD of an engine oil for any engine. Depends on use case.

Well I certainly know I'm 100% right for not spending unwisely on expensive engine oils and YOU are wrong to attack me in your previous post! No need to write excuses for your wrong and baseless assessment of me, even bro theanswer has noticed that too.

Exactly!

oh my....since the resurgence of lunatic jayraptor, more peculiar characters and postings start surfacing....

Well this guy I think has been around for sometime already, but anyway not surprised got many nonsense characters here (remember those 2 characters on the tire review thread arguing with me then you on Landsail? ) coz this forum is very open anyway to everyone.

Prof Jay is protected by the mod! Any negative comments on him will be deleted by the mod!

No la.....mod not protecting him, i witnessed that fellor kena forced holiday...

Mod just want to minimise flame bating and just watch your wordings from direct personal character attacks. If not, my post won't still be available. I just use his very own words against him.

How about the oil filter?

Filter i also use amsoil one, their EA filters, rated for the full mileage (15000 MILES or 24000KM severe duty), as per the oils.

When i need to use proton OE filters (sometimes no stock),
i will use for 10K km, then swap in another OE filter, then top up about 700ml for my car,

Then until total 20k km only change oil and filter again.

Good practice for high mileage OCI.
Where did you get the amsoil filter? Am I also using saga

I get it from Amsoil Malaysia distributor direct.


Viscon Sdn Bhd, near sungai Buloh there.

Location Link:

Viscon Sdn Bhd.


They do retail. Just go to their warehouse and enquire.