guys , what's the difference between liqui moly toptec ? synthoil ? molygen ? they are all fully synthetic oil , right ? I'm looking for fully synthetic oil now for my persona ... Or any brand suggestion for fully synthetic oil ? I have been using shell helix semi synthetic all this while , i can feel the engine sound is quite rough

That car engine does't need expensive full synth oil like Liqui Moly. Just buy whatever branded full synth on promotion in Giant/Tesco/AEON like Shell/Castrol/Mobil/Mitsu Eneos, more than enough.

I am gonna drive the car for next 10++ yrs, so I think I should take good care of the engine... I know the wear and tear of the suspension is unavoidable.. I just want to make sure that the engine is in good condition.. The price of fully synthetic of liqui moly is not much diffrent from the price of shell fully, I am thinking of getting liqui moly instead. Coz I heard that there are many fake shell eo in the market...

This post has been edited by delsoo: May 19 2018, 06:45 PM

If by Shell fully you mean to say Helix Ultra, I'm afraid it has far far superior OEM approvals and specifications than most, if not all of the LM variants above combined.
Btw, I have had mineral oils in wira for upto 23 years and running, and in Avanza for upto 10 years plus and running.

This post has been edited by zeng: May 19 2018, 07:16 PM

Bro the engine is the least of your worries, the engine is normally the most robust part of the car... just use any good oil and follow proper maintenance is ok already.
It's the other parts connected to the engine which most likely kaput first.

To me the cooling system is more important than the engine oil.. engine can run even if oil leaking... but coolant leaking, bye-bye engine.

My cars are 13 years and 8 years old respectively, no worries on the engine.. other parts hard to say, see luck.

Regarding with the coolant part, should I change the coolant? I am not sure it's 100% coolant inside the radiator..... I heard that using the water will cause the radiator to rust.....?

If not sure, please change. Do not, I repeat, do not/never use only water in the cooling system despite what many unqualified mechanics tell you.
A mix of water and coolant is a must, the coolant has anti rust properties and prevent rust.

But you don't need to use 100% coolant lah... I know some manufacturer sell pre-mix, which are basically coolant already mix with water at correct ratio (can get expensive if you need many bottles)
Anyway i use 2-3 bottles of coolant and the rest i top up with water. But even 1 bottle of coolant i found good enough to prevent rust, normally i add extra 1 bottle to be sure.

delete.. double post

This post has been edited by unitron: May 19 2018, 08:21 PM

Where to get Eneos nowadays?

Either you call Mayshowa and ask for authorised Eneos dealers or shop for Mitsubishi engine oils at Aeon. Or you could try your luck in lazada/shopee

should try this wolver fully syntetic 5w30 ultratec ..mine been using more than 7000km still light the car..(search facebook for Wolver Oil Malaysia)they are giving free shipping

Can use any original fully syn engine oil as long as you change it often like every 7500 km or 10000 km or 6 month whichever comes first.

Mitsu not bad la! Some marcili owners Ben using it also. U want more branded oil, I recommend chemlube!

Tech Plus 5W40 from Aeon Big performs well for 12,000 km in Myvi 1.5, according to my friend's blotter spot test.

why legacy persona's campro engine which is so reliable also need headache on engine oil? just pour in any reputable engine oil semi-syn or fully-syn if you wishes it will works without complain. tho, engine coolant issue or iafm noise are the most common engine related issue i've observed for this engine. almost never heard ppl mentioning sludge problem or overhaul work.

still prefer liqui moly haha , what's the difference between synthoil ? top tec ? molygen ?

Haha ok its up to you lor, coz its your money anyway. Using such expensive oil on your engine is actually a waste of money, just like using RON 97 on a Myvi for example. Also if you buy from reputable sellers, it will be genuine oil. Liqui Moly also only sold in independent workshops so there's no guarantee they don't sell fakes. If you really want to spend that much though, might as well buy Amsoil, more proven. Price might be slightly cheaper but maybe a bit more difficult to find.

I am using shell helix semi now, can feel that the engine is quite light, but sound rough.....

Synthoil is their only fully synthetic from Group4. Due to lesser compatibility, its formula is 'older'. API SM

Toptec is their latest flag ship fully synthetic from Group3. (mid to low SAPS) API SN

High Tech is their previous flag ship fully synthetic from Group3 as well. (high SAPS) API SN

Molygen no idea besides having a green dye and has nothing to do with moly. API SN

MoS2 is their solid (powder in mineral oil) lubricants additives. They have premixed semi-synthetic & mineral with MoS2. API SL


Though they claimed API SL/SM/SN on sticker, the only official product line with API SN are Special Tec AA.

This post has been edited by dstl1128: May 20 2018, 11:45 PM

All new Protons are filled with 100% coolant in the radiator before they leave the factory.
For best results you should only refill 100% coolant. Do not dilute with distilled water, etc.

There is no need to flush the radiator too often. (Just do it once every 5 years or 60k km whichever comes first)
As a rule of thumb, just flush the radiator when you change the timing belt/water pump.
Btw, you will need many bottles of coolant for this. Around 4-5 bottles I think.

Otherwise, just top up the coolant (if necessary) during the regular scheduled service.