Website states;
The recommended items or parts above are subject to model, variant and style of driving. Please refer to our Service Advisor for further details. All effort has been taken to ensure that the information is accurate and up-to-date. However, prices are subject to change as and when necessary without prior update

Else you can try Call Customer Care Hotline : 1-800-88-8398

Worst case scenario they sabo your car during service...so if you’re so concerned, change the place you do your service?

Just tell them follow Proton guideline...show them the service list

Can give examples of what items? Maybe proton website price u saw haven't add sst?

But what i hate most sc, not just proton, famous in Perodua and honda, they quoted all optional items together when propose to your service mileage. Items like more premium air cond filter, fuel additive, oil treatment, balancing and stuff were thrown in on quotation. Some just paid for it but me being sceptical i just sound them to follow as recommendations. This on Honda.

I believe some proton sc were this same. So far Semenyih Proton sc was professional for my wife's x70 ckd when i ask her to send for service. They don't quote any difference vs proton apps -myproton price

This. I believe just show them the proton apps list of services. Sometime the sc want extra money by giving optional items together with service

Anyone experience sound of water inside car, like beneath the dash? like need to steer the car left and right then can hear the water shaking sound, possibly the aircond condensed water inside not able to discharge.

If full blast air cond will leak to the front passenger and driver car mat area. Think this all related

I managed to secure RM175 for each donut for Continental's CC6 for my Iriz 1.3 exec, yes the annoying 14" rim. Since the shop is out cc6's stock, the boss willingly change to Michellin's XM2+ (Tyre manufacture date is 2021) for the same price. After a few months of usage, I must say I do enjoy driving, although it is not silent and comfy as CC6.

This post has been edited by Jjuggler: May 25 2021, 03:25 PM

Pros of the car according to your question order then followed by the cons:

1. If cared properly, say change your eo on a right time, service the part that required to change without sticking to 'later la i kawtim', then yes, the damage will cost you more. I always use the Petronas 3000 5W-30 fully synthetic from petronas with fueling with RON97 Pro-Race (petronas) from the actual date of me purchase my own Iriz 1.3 exec back in 2017. The engine is good and sometimes I do regret of not going to the 1.6 version (refer to point 2 to know the reason). The thing I hated about Iriz is being overweight (i mean heavier than Vios and City) and offered two power-plant, a 1.3VVT and a 1.6VVT. Second is the rubbish Punch CVT gb. I prefer the older 4AT transmission over Punch's CVT anytime.

2. If budget and FC is not important for you, go for 1.6 either Exec or Premium. Don't go for 1.3 due to being so under-powered and the CVT transmission for 1.3 further 'choking' the engine. If you liked the 1.3 version, then go for manual transmission.

3. I always buy petronas eo 3000 5w-30 from shopee (official petronas e-store) and filter and only pick the right mechanic to do the oil change stuff. Every 7000k, I will change my eo as it is recommended for engine health. Also, I do cvt gb oil change every 20k just to make sure the gb can service my iriz further though the chances of the lifespan of the gb depends on our driving style. Usually costs me RM250-300 as standard (eo, oil filter, tyre alignment and service cost a.k.a 'upah'). 4 years of owning the car, never encountered major problem yet. Only stick with changing eo every 7000km and take care of the driving style.

My 2015 1.6 CVT touchscreen HU is not responding anymore.

Anyone encounter the same issue?

try reset



This post has been edited by croydon: May 27 2021, 05:29 PM

Agreed with your eo selection. But dont agreed your choose of fuel with 97. The car can take 95 without any issue whatsoever as the manual even stated can take 95. U safe a lot from there.

95 vs 97 no difference from the Additive package on most petrol sold here, both Euro4m (more to environment purpose than performance).

Btw i bought a 3 years old Iriz 1.6 premium 2nd hand at almost 1/3 from brand new price. Use it for daily work which about 80km/day. FC not the best and it hovering at 11.5-12km/l with the speed of 110-130kmh at highway. I change the EO from Shell Helix Tesco 5w40 around rm90-99. For CVT, last i changed the cvt oil at a place where they have this cvt adaptation process. Basically after fill up the oil, when do this actually the system detect an extra oil and need to remove few from it.

Thank you for your feedback and sharing your experience with Iriz 1.6 Premium. Indeed, the car can take RON95. For me, I am used with RON97 due to smoother engine performance and less engine knocking (a.k.a protecting the engine component - afraid this will affect the inspection later on if I wanted to sell the car in the future), indeed yes I can save much with RON95, I just wanted to utilize the engine performance to its max level without putting any 'unwanted' additives that may harm the engine components.

My current FC reading is 6.2l/100km of course with cruising constantly at 110km/h. I am a heavy footer, and sometimes I do enjoy driving the car at high speed. For CVT, I always practice changing the gear-oil every 20000km just to make sure the gb were inspected from time to time and the gb be in a good condition and any signs of failure can be detected early. So far, my gearbox performance is quite smooth (I only do clutch adaptation every time i service the gearbox).

Iriz indeed a good car, if you care enough to change the necessary parts/oils on the right time, the car can serve you more.

This post has been edited by Jjuggler: May 27 2021, 12:28 AM

Yes you can fuel up the Iriz with RON 95.......not necessary with RON 97. By the way, have you change the Petrol Filter since it's a 2nd hand. What's the mileage?

Im lucky to get the iriz from one seller who rarely use it for long drive, only to Pasar and Mosque. So 3 years old car was at 12k km mileage. I check too at Proton SC and proton care to verify the mileage, and yes it indeed at that figure.

So my first things i do was change EO, CVT oil and adaptation, and all new tyre. The Silverstone came from factory is poor though, bising and slippery on wet, even the thread still look like new

Wow! The mileage it's really low and when it comes between 25k and 30k, it's advisable to change the petrol filter. Majority of the car owners doesn't know there's a petrol filter and many complaints of their car on high fuel consumption. And this is part of it and it is similar to the water filter at home, if the cartridge of the filter is dirty, surely the water flow will be weak.......right. So, same thing as for the petrol filter......once the petrol filter is dirty and the petrol flow to the injector is weak......this is where you need to step onto the gas pedal more to get more power and burn more petrol. Besides that, high fuel consumption it is also due to always caught in the traffic jam and heavy footed (speeding).

To maintain the engine performance, make sure the air filter is cleaning, once a month take it out and vacuum it, clean the throttle body, MAP sensor and the OCV. Quality of the Silverstone tyre are very bad as i have used it about 1 year plus, showing signs of cracking at the sidewall....i quickly changed all the tyres to Dunlop D05. Which tyre brand are using now?

This is Q and A about the CVT


Q. The hill hold control is too sensitive that even on a short downwards slope, it starts to do engine braking, which is quite irritating for me.
A. Sorry to hear, this is known issue; this is however proton's button, not our CVT. For hill hold... simple explanation, if you apply 1 to 2% throttle or short time more throttle it will stop engine braking autmaticly.

Q. Everytime when the CVT indicator light is on, there will be fault code appear for service center to refer?
A. Offcoarse its stored in our computers memory. Keep in mind though that after 20 restarts of the engine without the fault code appearing it will be gone as it will be considered a one off, or solved problem.

Q. I notice that exora bold still roll back on even slight /gradual slope(not-too-steep slope). Normal auto gear vehicle only will roll back when the slope is too steep, if it is not steep enough, it's will lock at there. Is there anyway to make CVT lock it when reach slight/gradual slope? It is kinda dangerous esp for new driver.
A. You are correct. This is a know "issue", but is a design feature actually. Two things contribute to this:
First thing is what we call idle neutral, unlike all regular older AT's that have a constantly dragging torque converter or clutch, we open our clutch (a wet clutch, more pressure = more drag, even more pressure closes it) almost completely when you are pressing the brake and standing still. this way fuel is saved. If you release the brake a little time is needed to apply pressure to our clutch again. that is when you roll back a little, rollback only occurs on hills steeper than 10%.
secondly the engine cannot deliver a lot of power idling, when aircon is on, heavy car, on a hill, we can start closing the clutch in order not to roll back, but that will cause the engine to stall. When you apply trottle you will notice first the clutch opens a little bit so engine revs up, than we start closing the clutch, during revving up, you can encounter rollback.
What to do? use handbrake in stead of brake, this way we not shift to neutral (we only read regular brake signal not handbrake), use enough trottle, this way the engine produces engough power to close the clutch in one move.

Q. A lot bashes arguing CVT from proton will end up like honda city CVT, after few year, this cvt gb will fail and it's will cost a bomb for us to replace the CVT GB. Can you describe a bit on punch CVT and it's reliability issue?
A. We are looking into this, we do know income in malaysia is not like europe meaning people will choose repaired or reconditioned gearboxes above new ones. Possibility is that Punch will open a local brand to recondition gearboxes and sell at prices comparable to normal AT ones. As you know our gearboxes are tested till 250000km.

Q. A lot people(those basher) condemning on rubberband effect for proton CVT compare to those conti CVT(multitronic and etc). Rubberband effect quite obvious for punch CVT.
A. Rubberband effect is from CVT's that existed 30 years ago, we use a steel belt so not applicable.

Q. Overheat issue on CVT2. There is rumours saying that Saga FLX always break down due to CVT2 overheat. Is there any solution already?
A. We use a wet clutch, when you would move uphill at very low speeds it would slip almost constantly. We cool this clutch with CVT oil, this is pumped trough the clutch by our CVT pump, this pump is directly connected to the engine. So yes, when not driving as you should with a CVT (and you cannot know this as this is new) you can overheat it. Please compare to manual, if you would keep it on a hill only using the clutch you would burn it.
What to do? avoid long slipping clutches by applying enough throttle when moving uphill, the engine will produce enough power for us to close fast without long slipping period. Shift to N when you can, this will have a cooling effect on the CVT, if possible in N apply little throttle till lets say 1500rpm, this will rev up the pump and increase cooling.
these tips are only for extreme conditions! all other condition drive as you want!
Our CVT's are tested under extreme temperatures! Worst case scenario clutch will open, resulting in no drive as we measure temperature and in order not to break the CVT we will open clutch. You will have to wait a few moments, key on and off and there you go again, this is no breakdown!

Q. As you said "when you would move uphill at very low speeds it would slip almost constantly", how slow is the slow (car speed and engine rev)?
A. Speeds under 10km/h

Q. You have mentioned that the clutch is almost completely open while standing still with D engaged, is this the prime reason of slight lagging when slowly pressing the gas to move?
A. Yes, if you release the brake and immediately press the gas, this is the case. It is always better not to press the gas immediately unless you have to (uphill), you will notive less delay. That it isn't superagressive at launch (if you would mean this by lag) is calibration, it is to preserve both engine and CVT. it is called torque reduction, the engines power delivery is minimized, although full trottle.

Q. Could you give some advices/tips in using CVT when going uphill (e.g. Genting Highland)? Also does it have engine-breaking effect when coming down?
A. Yes it has an automatic engine braking, but only when trottle completly released. Even more engine braking can be applied by putting transmission in L mode. Also for uphill L mode comes in handy, lower ratio, more pulling power!

Q. Is there anyway to avoid CVT failure like honda city/jazz? Any special thing need to take care in order to longer the lifespan of punch CVT?
A. Nothing really special, just drive and enjoy. If would have to say one thing it is to let it build up it's clutch pressure after releasing brake or putting in D before going on throttle, that will be better for clutch.

Q. When u said the CVT is tested under extreme temperature, how extreme is it?
A. We do summer and wintertests, wintertests go up to -40degree, summer tests are extreme high temps and mountains.

Q. If the car is in extreme condition, i believe the CVT oil might be degraded earlier than expected. Is there a way for us to check if the CVT oil is still at its functional condition to lub and cool the CVT?
A. You cannot check but there is no need to. 60000km is fine as in service manual. (or 2 years)

Q. The CVT overheat issue, if i understand correctly from your replies, mainly touching on the cluth. In worst case, the cluth will open to avoid further damage. So, the CVT(belt, "gear") remains safe. Is that right?
A. Temperature build up in clutch is the problem, that is why it opens. Gears, belt, are not sensitive to these temperatures.

Q. So, the cluth is a wear and tear stuff then? how frequent it needs to be replaced?
A. It is designed to equal normal lifetime of a car.

Q. Can you give an insight as to how the VT3 has been improved over the VT1F?
A. VT3 is based on VT1 allthougth the whole control stategy and hydraulic system changed. This makes it easier and safer controllable. For example the strategy to apply the clutch is constant learning program that remaps every time you shift to D so that clutch wear over time will be compensated. Also the gearbox has a lot more safety in a way that importtant components will be protected if something would go wrong. Offcoarse every failure is investigated on VT1 and prevented in VT2.

Q. Is the Exora the first car to be fitted with the VT3?
A. Yes it is, but the VT3 is very similar to VT2 that we are supplying for multiple years. Some mechanical components are changed to withstand higher torque (eg Gears) and the final gear ratio is different. All service parts for VT3 are same as VT2.

Q. This is the way in order to have a smoother pick up. Slot in D, release the brake, wait around 5 seconds, press the pedal very very gently.....but we can't alway do like that, because most of the time we need fast response.....sometime if you press the pedal harder a bit during pick up, will you have the jerking feel same as you sudden release clutch in MT gearbox?
A. CVT's with wet clutches (ours) are much more efficient than the ones with torque converter. With the converter you have an indirect connection between engine and transmission. With clutches it is direct. CVT driving needs some getting used to, but once you understand it a bit better you will enjoy it much more than a regular AT. You can make smooth driving by closing the clutch veeery slow, but if the driver applies a lot of trottle it means he wants to move... and fast! so we close the clutch fast, as it should. I think overall the exora with CVT is smooth and as i drive (sometimes very fast) i don't experience this jerk, just "feel" the car and things will be OK!

Q. When the car comes to a stop (during the slow down/deceleration), i can hear a very obvious humming sound. If i switch to neutral, this noise will go away instantly. The noise is also obvious when the car is downhill with engine braking.
A. The low speed noise when descelerating is CVT related however, as your SA told you also engine makes similar noise. If you drive very slowly, little throttle you have this whoewhoeeee noise, this is the Airco compressor. You can see if you switch of aircon during the noise. Those two are very similar. But as you say, it's not that bad, all gears make noise, some just isolate it better than other. For me it's not bothering. We take in into consideration however and it is one of the action point to further improve on this matter.

Q. Regarding - Chiptuning and AT gearboxes:
A. First of all it's never good to chiptune engines that use a AT gearbox, second of all I don't recomment to chiptune this CFE engine in particular! We have run quite some test, and soms tests with blow off valves not working causing overpressure from the turbo (that is what they will do) with disastereous consequences! This engine is still highly based on a non turbo engine, therefore components are allready on their limit.
As for the CVT 220Nm is indeed a maximum when it goes for mass production. same as a VW golf GTI is max 220hp for production, this does not mean you don't have any reserves but from that point you will shorten the lifetime. Why is this so critical for CVT? A CVT uses a steel belt pressed in between two pulleys, by varying clamping on the second and first pulley you shift. When you are not shifting you still need clamping force to push the belt so it wouldn't slip. This pressure is based on the torque the CVT needs to handle -> high torque? high clamping force! this torque is told to our control unit from the engine ECU. When you chip your car however the ECU will tell us the stock 205Nm and not the real 235Nm resulting in possible damage. Even though we do have some safety build in, i highly discourage chipping the ECU.
Keep in mind that proton will retract warranty in these matters!

Q. Regarding - CVT overheating?
A. Our CVT will never overheat doing high speed due to the oil cooler installed. Flow through is cooler is very high at high speeds (both oil and wind going trough).

Q. When in a traffic jam (even on a level road), should we shift to N at every available opportunity? Or does frequent shifting back and forth from D to N and back affect the lifespan of the CVT gearbox?
A. On normal roads or traffic jams the CVT and clutch will never overheat. We have a system that asks the engine to lift up idle speed and turn on the fan in order to get more oil trough our CVT and clutch.
No need to shift to N for normal traffic or jams. Only when uphill driving longer period in a jam, I suggest to put in N if possible. We will not simply open the clutch when it overheats but we will gradually limit engine torque as temperature rises. No issues like this have been reported however, so don't worry too much

This post has been edited by Piriz: May 26 2021, 04:24 PM

Tldr. Basically the punch cvt is not reliable for turbo engine. 3 of my friends who own Preve cfe claimed new gb under warranty and proceed selling it cz not confident if it will ok after that in long run. No issues so far for NA engine. And there are lots more preve user last time waiting for warranty approval at proton hq. Majority with cfe.

I know the punch cvt is the worst cvt ever eventhough the Q&A look amazing to read. Try using others cvt and u can see why.
Example, other cvt able to cruise highway at low rev due to cvt but us, almost like 4 gear torque converter rpm level.

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: May 26 2021, 06:15 PM

Sorry my bad. its 6.2l/100km. Thanks for highlighting the error mate.

Regarding 95 vs 97 theres no right and wrong answer of which to choose but 97 is more difficult to detonate which prevents the "knocking" from cars such as those with very high engine compression. However our Iriz only uses standard engine compression ratio and doesnt get any benefits from 97 nor suffer from engine knocking. Since RON 95 burns easily compared to 97 its more efficient and we will get better mileage and performance compared to 97.
Paultan - Saga RON 95 vs 97 test
IMoney - Myvi RON 95 vs 97 dyno test

I think the most common important thing is taking care of the cvt belt and clutch. I know initially when proton first adapted the cvt it was extremely jerky as if the clutch doesnt do any modulating but just remains either engaged or not. Also doesnt help that malaysians like to go heavy on the throttle. With Honda or Nissan CVT, they use a torque converter instead of a clutch which makes it smooth and I guess it sends less torque to the belt immediately(due to power loss from torque converter). Newer Iriz/Persona have quite smooth CVT's already which is a blessing to many.

as the 2nd link u shown, it less than 1% hp different, it may contribute from temperature factors, etc. don't find benefit pour 97 for a 95 designed car as the additive package are same for the most brand sold here.

For the CVT, that no of tcu update will never able to smoother the jerkiness due to the nature of clutch based as opposed to torque converter based. The are rumours Proton even want to remove Punch and bring Jatco cvt as customer don't find easy with CVT jerkiness sold by Punch. in the end, Saga using back 4 gear normal auto, and yet to be confirmed for new Iriz/ Persona.

Found out some Proton technician that dunno what the meaning of Ready to use coolant......