Yea i was quite surprised too when u said a 4k rpm down hill means wasting fuel

Btw guys, about that engine braking and neutral stuff, i read about this theory before and did some test last time on the NSE turning into mont kiara, where there is a big stretch of downhill just before the toll. The theory is when engine braking fuel injection system will cut off hence better efficiency and neutral is not so due to idle rpm.

I remembered doing the test on my MT iriz, resetting the L/100km just when it goes down hill and end up concluding neutral actually shows better L/100km. Anyone have other test data? it also could be during neutral the higher speed meant more distance covered in a short time plus i remember quite when engine braking the L/100km is some value above 2 L/100km. Seems like the counter doesn't indicate fuel injection total cut off

How bout some values like km/l or L/100km so we can make some comparison? typically around 6-8 L/100km for a normal drive. I own a 1.3 MT version and hope i had a 1.6 instead coz u cant go fast when u got low spec but can go slow when u got high spec lol


i remember i read somewhere that 1.6 has better FC than 1.3, something like due to less time it took to reach a cruising speed for the 1.6 thus better FC.

heh is it coz u tried pressing central lock to long before?

This post has been edited by hawk1lo: Oct 16 2019, 03:32 PM

no la, actually my intention is to say that if u press too long before, it deactivates the auto locking
last time i also wonder why my auto lock not working, after refer to manual, long press the lock until hazard light blinks to activate/deactivate the auto locking when moving.

you can try that

i m using the same also, straight change 4 biji with rim after 2+ years.
compared to stock tyre, wet grips are better but noise i think not much different?

weird, my DFender pedal lock has it hence the cannot start when lock engage feature.
But for auto maybe don need coz u can't start engine without hitting brakes first, thus making it redundant ?

u mean when using spare tyre?

u can easily manipulate the FC based on ur foot, just get the 1.6 and u wont regret

ECS light bro, not the steering with !

mine was having that ESC and handbrake light when changed to spare tyre coz puncture
after tampal the tyre and replace back, initiialy ESC and handbrake light still on, until drive like few hundred meter then self reset ok dy
unless ur tyre size got change lol which i think unlikely

Yeah, same issue with 2017 MC version. I asked in this forum earlier and older versions have it too. funny that they never fix this

skill problem, heh

But since center N is on the way, there's no way avoiding it?

Initially i just push upwards so that the gear back to center itself and only push into 3rd, after some time i feel its better/smoother and less noisy if i guide the gear knob all the way N then to 3rd (z pattern). Experienced before miss the slot and need to re-enter, but that i think is human problem

slightly overheated. Even for 2017 version so far never surpass 3 bars

would like to see how mt stands out hahha
if cvt vs mt, is it confirmed CVT win? i rmb data sheet mention sometime like mt 1 sec faster or something

so that u can drift

my ori battery lasted for like 1.8 year forgot the brand

i just use layman judgement when choosing battery lol

changed to AMARON GO because they have that 15 months warranty compared to some other brands and the seller is nearby where my car is like choking to start (signs of dead battery and very low voltage)

but i notice sometimes the car takes a few crank to start once a while, not too sure is it related to battery

average more than half an hour at least, should be long enough

Usually if the crank too longer than 1-2 sec, i just left the key on "ON" wait for a few sec then retry

I noticed engine will die a few sec after start, same as u mentioned, but that is if i press pedal during this kinda hard-to-start-scenario,

So i just key start, engine start at low rpm but automatically go up then drop back ard 1k ( i think ECU thingy) Not sure ur case same or not? coz old skool carburetor cars if step on gas will help, but drive by wire cars i think its counter productive

Not too sure if my method is purely "novelty" but it works somehow.

Btw, for KEY start IRIZ, does anyone knows what's the 'electrical motor sound' when turn to ON ? its like 2-3 second some motor sound followed by some other sound then stop. Sounds like some flap is moving or something

oh looks like having it ON until sequence end only then START is the right way

on normal dry road and straigh i think so, because most of the braking is towards the front wheels.

but u imagine if slightly angle a bit, and ur rear wheels less traction, can drift already. So even if move front wheel to rear, make sure not botak lor, or just dont drive fast during cornering.

I am using goodyear assurance duraplus 2, i think rm130 consider not so exp for tyre, and consider invest more on new tyre compared to used ones coz safety