"pirated/fake" Gundam Model

Lowyat.NET forums

Lowyat.NET Kopitiam Garage Sales

Lowyat.NET Rules and Regulations FAQ Help Search Members

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Lowyat.NET -> Hobbies, Collectibles and Model Kits

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

126 Pages « < 65 66 67 68 69 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

Model Kits "pirated/fake" Gundam Model

views

ssl	Jun 11 2010, 03:20 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1321
Getting Started Junior Member 93 posts Joined: Feb 2005	QUOTE(keon1217 @ Jun 11 2010, 12:52 AM) Anyone knows where can get Jargon BB in KL? i saw it was selling in comic book store next to arcade shop in leisure mall i know one of the pasar malam boss sell that. if you prefer cheaper, i think it is best if you go to friday pasar malam outside leisure mall, or saturday pasar malam at outside taman sri bahagia. Added on June 11, 2010, 3:24 pm QUOTE(antisushi @ Jun 10 2010, 09:33 PM) Hi guys, if I have the conversion resin kit, would it be compatible with the T.T Hongli's gundam model? Cheers. normally it will fit better with bandai, maybe needs some minor job. if you were to get tt hongli, i think perhaps you got more work to do. This post has been edited by ssl: Jun 11 2010, 03:24 PM
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 11 2010, 04:25 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1322
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	wokay completed my SF main body, left the wingz only. later upload some pic for comparison wokay here's wat i've got. I think something like this may have been posted before, but i guess it's ok to post again kot. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « this is the full figure. looks ok from far. The V fin at first was like omg.... i still can't sand it to be sharp and the cheeks were like damn tembam, as though SF is constantly on a pout. At some parts, there are 'holes'. can use putty to cure it but i don't have it. so i'm gonna just leave it as it is The rail gun couldn't be erected properly because the skirt armor got excess plastic blocking it. craftknife takes care of it. Another issue tht sends me flying. Those armors are not properly aligned. Tried to sand so as to not so obvious but... still shows Common issue with TT Hongli and other pirated ones i suppose. some parts, it can't stick/connected. Cutting the male connectors and unvirginise the female holes helps a bit (like wat takumikun said) ARGH I hate SF... The default cirit-birit yellow colour is awful!! i'll have a lot of parts to be painted.. but wasn't so bad after i painted it. those grooves and details, not sharp nor deep enough. but it's the tapak kaki no one's gonna bother so i'll leave it be. As for the joints, I feel it's quite loose. But no big issue. Can be dealt with. My conclusion so far: 1. While TT Hong Li is rather good, u need some basic modelling skills to make it look better. Sanding and cutting are needed. 2. The mold technology are still lacking when it comes to parts with details. E.g. pistons/and all the grooves at the leg area especially. 3. Have to spend more time to assemble it compare to Bandai's. 4. As for the plastics, i'd say it's a bit softer than Bandai's. I can cut and sand it quite easily. Not exactly a good thing cos it might mean the joints will get worn out easier. 5. Also, most of the surfaces have those glossy cheap-plastic-toy sort of feel. A bit of sanding with high grit sandpaper will remove it no problem. Add a layer of topcoat and it'll be Bandai-like All in all, i look forward to having this SF pwned by Destiny. This post has been edited by MyKy44: Jun 11 2010, 05:20 PM
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

Parody	Jun 11 2010, 06:26 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1323
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: the Greek word parodia	QUOTE(MyKy44 @ Jun 11 2010, 04:25 PM) wokay completed my SF main body, left the wingz only. later upload some pic for comparison wokay here's wat i've got. I think something like this may have been posted before, but i guess it's ok to post again kot. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « this is the full figure. looks ok from far. The V fin at first was like omg.... i still can't sand it to be sharp and the cheeks were like damn tembam, as though SF is constantly on a pout. At some parts, there are 'holes'. can use putty to cure it but i don't have it. so i'm gonna just leave it as it is The rail gun couldn't be erected properly because the skirt armor got excess plastic blocking it. craftknife takes care of it. Another issue tht sends me flying. Those armors are not properly aligned. Tried to sand so as to not so obvious but... still shows Common issue with TT Hongli and other pirated ones i suppose. some parts, it can't stick/connected. Cutting the male connectors and unvirginise the female holes helps a bit (like wat takumikun said) ARGH I hate SF... The default cirit-birit yellow colour is awful!! i'll have a lot of parts to be painted.. but wasn't so bad after i painted it. those grooves and details, not sharp nor deep enough. but it's the tapak kaki no one's gonna bother so i'll leave it be. As for the joints, I feel it's quite loose. But no big issue. Can be dealt with. My conclusion so far: 1. While TT Hong Li is rather good, u need some basic modelling skills to make it look better. Sanding and cutting are needed. 2. The mold technology are still lacking when it comes to parts with details. E.g. pistons/and all the grooves at the leg area especially. 3. Have to spend more time to assemble it compare to Bandai's. 4. As for the plastics, i'd say it's a bit softer than Bandai's. I can cut and sand it quite easily. Not exactly a good thing cos it might mean the joints will get worn out easier. 5. Also, most of the surfaces have those glossy cheap-plastic-toy sort of feel. A bit of sanding with high grit sandpaper will remove it no problem. Add a layer of topcoat and it'll be Bandai-like All in all, i look forward to having this SF pwned by Destiny. A rather nice review. Thanks for your effort. It helps people like me who are considering to buy TT or not.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

Codroy	Jun 11 2010, 07:08 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1324
Getting Started Junior Member 140 posts Joined: May 2010	just get back from wetex in muar..see a toy shop there selling GD 1/144 HG Throne Gundam for RM109 lol
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 11 2010, 09:19 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1325
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	QUOTE(Parody @ Jun 11 2010, 06:26 PM) A rather nice review. Thanks for your effort. It helps people like me who are considering to buy TT or not. there are more... atrocities actually. when i complete i'll post the review again QUOTE(Codroy @ Jun 11 2010, 07:08 PM) just get back from wetex in muar..see a toy shop there selling GD 1/144 HG Throne Gundam for RM109 lol wtffffffff even bandai one not tht expensive
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

Codroy	Jun 12 2010, 12:06 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1326
Getting Started Junior Member 140 posts Joined: May 2010	lol..very hard here in muar..very expensive!!!
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

kvin89	Jun 13 2010, 12:20 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1327
New Member Junior Member 4 posts Joined: Mar 2009	i m a muarian too..wetex tat shop is going to close down real soon la!! stupid price!
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

goku123	Jun 14 2010, 09:32 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1328
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Apr 2009	anyone know where in Hong Kong i can get both real and bootlegged kits? cheapest place possible would be appreciated.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

man_hakim87	Jun 17 2010, 03:44 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1329
Getting Started Junior Member 276 posts Joined: Aug 2008 From: Port Klang, Kuala Lumpur	QUOTE(MyKy44 @ Jun 11 2010, 04:25 PM) wokay completed my SF main body, left the wingz only. later upload some pic for comparison wokay here's wat i've got. I think something like this may have been posted before, but i guess it's ok to post again kot. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « this is the full figure. looks ok from far. The V fin at first was like omg.... i still can't sand it to be sharp and the cheeks were like damn tembam, as though SF is constantly on a pout. At some parts, there are 'holes'. can use putty to cure it but i don't have it. so i'm gonna just leave it as it is The rail gun couldn't be erected properly because the skirt armor got excess plastic blocking it. craftknife takes care of it. Another issue tht sends me flying. Those armors are not properly aligned. Tried to sand so as to not so obvious but... still shows Common issue with TT Hongli and other pirated ones i suppose. some parts, it can't stick/connected. Cutting the male connectors and unvirginise the female holes helps a bit (like wat takumikun said) ARGH I hate SF... The default cirit-birit yellow colour is awful!! i'll have a lot of parts to be painted.. but wasn't so bad after i painted it. those grooves and details, not sharp nor deep enough. but it's the tapak kaki no one's gonna bother so i'll leave it be. As for the joints, I feel it's quite loose. But no big issue. Can be dealt with. My conclusion so far: 1. While TT Hong Li is rather good, u need some basic modelling skills to make it look better. Sanding and cutting are needed. 2. The mold technology are still lacking when it comes to parts with details. E.g. pistons/and all the grooves at the leg area especially. 3. Have to spend more time to assemble it compare to Bandai's. 4. As for the plastics, i'd say it's a bit softer than Bandai's. I can cut and sand it quite easily. Not exactly a good thing cos it might mean the joints will get worn out easier. 5. Also, most of the surfaces have those glossy cheap-plastic-toy sort of feel. A bit of sanding with high grit sandpaper will remove it no problem. Add a layer of topcoat and it'll be Bandai-like All in all, i look forward to having this SF pwned by Destiny. Bro does the wing mechanism works??
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 18 2010, 12:54 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1330
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	i just completed the set. it's full fock... really.. i took it apart for repainting and topcoat. once done, i do complete review. now i thinking 3~5 times if i wanna buy another pirated gunpla. some pics.... it's full of fock » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « wtf man... a mis-mold. yeah now the wing got a lobang. for nothing... hahaha completed liao. shitty look Burst mode, watever... joints are all very loose. in fact the left arm totally loose ady. it's flinging in the air. Strike Fockdom.... hahahaha This post has been edited by MyKy44: Jun 18 2010, 01:05 AM
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

DonutZai	Jun 18 2010, 01:07 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1331
Getting Started Junior Member 136 posts Joined: Nov 2008 From: The heaven above you.	nice wing. lol.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 18 2010, 01:14 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1332
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	i put it at the back. when i saw it, my brain was really full of focks... dunno maybe i face problem get shitty kit. last time got buyers say the joints very tight la, better than BanDai la, 99% like bandai la. for me it's damn shitty la.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

man_hakim87	Jun 18 2010, 01:16 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1333
Getting Started Junior Member 276 posts Joined: Aug 2008 From: Port Klang, Kuala Lumpur	QUOTE(MyKy44 @ Jun 18 2010, 01:14 AM) i put it at the back. when i saw it, my brain was really full of focks... dunno maybe i face problem get shitty kit. last time got buyers say the joints very tight la, better than BanDai la, 99% like bandai la. for me it's damn shitty la. Bummer dude.. Come2 sell to me. Well not all. I juz need some parts.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 18 2010, 12:12 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1334
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	eh kenot.. i wan it as fodder nia. so i don't really care much
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

jedi_master	Jun 18 2010, 12:22 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1335
Getting Started Junior Member 165 posts Joined: Jan 2005 From: Soul Society	haha put the wings on 00 or something la, make some 00 raiser XN HIMAT hybrid
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 18 2010, 12:27 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1336
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	don wan la. the wings are dumb. hate the overkill-susah-payah design.
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

Parody	Jun 20 2010, 07:10 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1337
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: the Greek word parodia	Here is my not-so-detailed review of my first TT Hongli kit, MG Shin Musha Sengoku No Jin. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Before i start, there one thing that you should know: TT Hongli kits' quality are very inconsistent. Their quality control is very poor. What may be almost perfect in a box of Musha may be a near disaster in another box of Musha. It depends on luck on which one you'll get. Or if you're a believer of karma, you better start doing good deeds before you get yourself a TT Hongli kit. This review will be based on what i got from TT Hongli. In the review, i use TT to represent the knockoff China model kit and BD to represent the original Japan model kit from Bandai. So, here we go: THE BOX ITSELF The box itself, both size and appearance, looks like its BD counterpart except that: 1) the colors appear faded (lighter than the original one). 2) all the BD logos on the box are replaced by TT logos. 3) all Japanese wordings have been translated into Chinese and English. I wish i could include a picture of the box here, but the box i got was too crumpled that i actually took it apart and threw it away already. But the box doesn't matter, right? What's important is the inside. If we're talking about girls, then both inside and outside matters! INSIDE THE BOX The assembly manual looks exactly the same as the original one except that: 1) the pages with colors appear faded (lighter than BD's). 2) the BD logo on the bottom right of the front page is replaced by the TT logo. 3) all Japanese wordings have been translated into Chinese and English. The packaging is of lower quality than the original. The plastic wrapper used is thinner, the seal is weaker, and they tend to put a lot of runners into one plastic wrapper, sometimes up to 5 runners. BD usually puts 2 runners in one wrapper. OUT OF THE BOX Here, i'll just mention what problems i've encountered with this TT kit. If it's not mentioned, the quality is on par with BD. PROBLEM #1 - Once you open the plastic wrappers, the first thing you notice is the smell of paint. It was as if you went to a car workshop to collect your newly painted car. It has a very strong odour. I had to leave it in the open for a day or two before starting assembly. Otherwise, i might just get nosebleed from the toxic fumes. And do not, i repeat, DO NOT lick or eat with your fingers after handling the runners. You might just get poisoning. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly before you do so. Upon inspection of the runners, i notice that some (about 2-3) parts have already fallen off the runners, but this doesn't seem to be a major problem. PROBLEM #2 - There is also the problem of color inconsistencies due to improper color mixing methods. About 20% of the runners suffer from this. Like the picture above, you can see a slight pattern on the surface. The color appears different even on the same part. Although it's not noticeable from afar, it's a sign of inferior quality that requires mention. I also encountered oily surfaces in some of the runners. Not sure where does the oil come from. Perhaps from the paint? Perhaps they were trying to achieve a glossy finish? Who knows? REMEDY #2 - Use of a flat topcoat might make it less noticeable. Otherwise, paint will do just fine. PROBLEM #2.5 - Color inconsistency is very obvious in the plated runners. The gold plating sometimes fade into silver with a slight yellow tinge. The plating parts are also prone to scratches and the reflective surface makes the scars even more obvious (which relates to the next problem). PROBLEM #3 - The parts also have uneven surfaces, like small bumps or craters, mainly caused by the plastic moulding process or impurities within the paint. The uneven surface is highly noticeable if it's a glossy kit but on matte colors, it's only apparent if light reflects on it. As you can see from the picture above, you can see the part is having pimple problems. Because of the moulding problem, about 40% of all the male joints have problem fitting into the female joints. Either it's too tight or too loose. REMEDY #3 - If the surface is uneven, sanding would help, but only if you intend to paint it after that. Otherwise it'll leave ugly scrathes on the surface instead. If the peg is too tight i just sand it smaller, and if it's too loose i just use super glue and let them stick together forever. PROBLEM #4 - Another problem is caused by incorrect drying methods that result in curved runners, directly affecting the small pieces of parts as well. About 25% of the runners are curved. If the parts are slightly curved, it will have problems fitting in correctly. REMEDY #4 - I just forcefully bend the parts back to its normal shape, carefully avoiding snapping it. ASSEMBLED Here is the kit itself, front and back view. Here are two pieces that don't fit together nicely, leaving a small gap between the assembled parts. One side is either smaller or shorter than the other. Of course, filling the gap with putty will easily solve this problem. Some pieces are moulded wrongly. The moulded shape is not accurate, leaving small gaps between connecting parts, as you can see from the picture below. The right side of the armor does not have this problem, although it's not clearly seen in the picture. Again, filling the gap with putty will solve this problem but would require a bit more work to mould it into the desired shape. Another issue with moulding inaccuracy i've encountered is with the shotgun and the small peg in the palms. The small palm peg is supposed to fit nicely into the shotgun's handle but i find it impossible to do so with the TT version. The BD kit does NOT have this problem. For the TT kit, I had to rely on the strength of the fingers alone to hold the shotgun. This is a major problem because, the finger joints are not that tight to begin with. This TT kit comes with both dry decals and peel off stickers, like BD. The peel off stickers are not sticky at all and they tend to fall off easily. The dry decals could stick but most of the time, the decals don't apply nicely. Some parts will stick on the kit while some parts will be left on the decal sheet. It's very annoying. So, i didn't apply most of them. The main reason anyone is getting the Shin Musha Sengoku No Jin version is because of the dragon and phoenix backdrop they provided. Here is a shot of the backdrop. I don't have the BD version to compare but i believe this TT version to be about 80-90% similar, but less shiny and reflective. This picture was taken with flash. Here are the action poses. Any pose that BD can do, the TT can do it as well. The kneeling gimmick is also available but it is a bit too tight to implement. I nearly broke my nail trying to push the pelvic joints to the front. Weapons could be stored at the back like in the pciture. The samurai pose could be reproduced. The hands have problems holding the javelin and spear but as far as i know, the BD version also has this kind of problem. CONCLUSION This is the moment you've all been waiting for. The pros and cons as compared to the original BD kit: PROS Price is more than 50% cheaper. Plastic quality is about 80-90%. Honestly, I feel the plastic is harder to break compared to Kotobukiya's model kits. Completed kit's appearance is almost 100%. If you paint it nicely, i'm sure most people can't tell if it's a TT or BD. Construction manual is in Chinese and English, rather than Japanese which most of us don't understand. Articulation and poseability is 100% (unless there's some major moulding error, which is quite rare). CONS Most of the colors are inconsistent. Most of the surface are uneven and sometimes even has an oily feel to it. Some of the runners are curved (which leads to the next problem). Half of the parts have problem fitting in nicely. Almost every joint (from the PC runner) is very weak. Limbs and fingers tend to fall off like dead flies. Almost useless stickers and dry decals. POST SCRIPT By doing this review, i am in no way supporting or promoting piracy. I am merely providing the general public with a view on the quality of a TT model kit. If you have got the cash, it is ALWAYS better to get the original kit from BD. Thanks for reading until the end. Cheers. And happy modelling! This post has been edited by Parody: Jun 22 2010, 06:33 PM
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

afsarudy	Jun 21 2010, 11:31 AM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1338
New Member Junior Member 20 posts Joined: Dec 2008	Just grab PG Strike from Takumikun yesterday. Today after work will start assemble.Hehehehe~~~~
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

guybrushg	Jun 21 2010, 08:03 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1339
New Member Newbie 0 posts Joined: Sep 2009	QUOTE(Parody @ Jun 20 2010, 07:10 PM) Here is my not-so-detailed review of my first TT Hongli kit, MG Shin Musha Sengoku No Jin. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Before i start, there one thing that you should know: TT Hongli kits' quality are very inconsistent. Their quality control is very poor. What may be almost perfect in a box of Musha may be a near disaster in another box of Musha. It depends on luck on which one you'll get. Or if you're a believer of karma, you better start doing good deeds before you get yourself a TT Hongli kit. This review will be based on what i got from TT Hongli. In the review, i use TT to represent the knockoff China model kit and BD to represent the original Japan model kit from Bandai. So, here we go: THE BOX ITSELF The box itself, both size and appearance, looks like its BD counterpart except that: 1) the colors appear faded (lighter than the original one). 2) all the BD logos on the box are replaced by TT logos. 3) all Japanese wordings have been translated into Chinese and English. I wish i could include a picture of the box here, but the box i got was too crumpled that i actually took it apart and threw it away already. But the box doesn't matter, right? What's important is the inside. If we're talking about girls, then both inside and outside matters! INSIDE THE BOX The assembly manual looks exactly the same as the original one except that: 1) the pages with colors appear faded (lighter than BD's). 2) the BD logo on the bottom right of the front page is replaced by the TT logo. 3) all Japanese wordings have been translated into Chinese and English. TT goes a step further to include a list of used parts on each assembly step at the top e.g. Head Assembly: A4(x1), A6(x1), B3(x2), C22(x2). BD manuals don't have this feature. The packaging is of lower quality than the original. The plastic wrapper used is thinner, the seal is weaker, and they tend to put a lot of runners into one plastic wrapper, sometimes up to 5 runners. BD usually puts 2 runners in one wrapper. OUT OF THE BOX Here, i'll just mention what problems i've encountered with this TT kit. If it's not mentioned, the quality is on par with BD. PROBLEM #1 - Once you open the plastic wrappers, the first thing you notice is the smell of paint. It was as if you went to a car workshop to collect your newly painted car. It has a very strong odour. I had to leave it in the open for a day or two before starting assembly. Otherwise, i might just get nosebleed from the toxic fumes. And do not, i repeat, DO NOT lick or eat with your fingers after handling the runners. You might just get poisoning. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly before you do so. Upon inspection of the runners, i notice that some (about 2-3) parts have already fallen off the runners, but this doesn't seem to be a major problem. PROBLEM #2 - There is also the problem of color inconsistencies due to improper color mixing methods. About 20% of the runners suffer from this. Like the picture above, you can see a slight pattern on the surface. The color appears different even on the same part. Although it's not noticeable from afar, it's a sign of inferior quality that requires mention. I also encountered oily surfaces in some of the runners. Not sure where does the oil come from. Perhaps from the paint? Perhaps they were trying to achieve a glossy finish? Who knows? REMEDY #2 - Use of a flat topcoat might make it less noticeable. Otherwise, paint will do just fine. PROBLEM #2.5 - Color inconsistency is very obvious in the plated runners. The gold plating sometimes fade into silver with a slight yellow tinge. The plating parts are also prone to scratches and the reflective surface makes the scars even more obvious (which relates to the next problem). PROBLEM #3 - The parts also have uneven surfaces, like small bumps or craters, mainly caused by the plastic moulding process or impurities within the paint. The uneven surface is highly noticeable if it's a glossy kit but on matte colors, it's only apparent if light reflects on it. As you can see from the picture above, you can see the part is having pimple problems. Because of the moulding problem, about 40% of all the male joints have problem fitting into the female joints. Either it's too tight or too loose. REMEDY #3 - If the surface is uneven, sanding would help, but only if you intend to paint it after that. Otherwise it'll leave ugly scrathes on the surface instead. If the peg is too tight i just sand it smaller, and if it's too loose i just use super glue and let them stick together forever. PROBLEM #4 - Another problem is caused by incorrect drying methods that result in curved runners, directly affecting the small pieces of parts as well. About 25% of the runners are curved. If the parts are slightly curved, it will have problems fitting in correctly. REMEDY #4 - I just forcefully bend the parts back to its normal shape, carefully avoiding snapping it. ASSEMBLED Here is the kit itself, front and back view. Here are two pieces that don't fit together nicely, leaving a small gap between the assembled parts. One side is either smaller or shorter than the other. Of course, filling the gap with putty will easily solve this problem. Some pieces are moulded wrongly. The moulded shape is not accurate, leaving small gaps between connecting parts, as you can see from the picture below. The right side of the armor does not have this problem, although it's not clearly seen in the picture. Again, filling the gap with putty will solve this problem but would require a bit more work to mould it into the desired shape. Another issue with moulding inaccuracy i've encountered is with the shotgun and the small peg in the palms. The small palm peg is supposed to fit nicely into the shotgun's handle but i find it impossible to do so with the TT version. The BD kit does NOT have this problem. For the TT kit, I had to rely on the strength of the fingers alone to hold the shotgun. This is a major problem because, the finger joints are not that tight to begin with. This TT kit comes with both dry decals and peel off stickers, like BD. The peel off stickers are not sticky at all and they tend to fall off easily. The dry decals could stick but most of the time, the decals don't apply nicely. Some parts will stick on the kit while some parts will be left on the decal sheet. It's very annoying. So, i didn't apply most of them. The main reason anyone is getting the Shin Musha Sengoku No Jin version is because of the dragon and phoenix backdrop they provided. Here is a shot of the backdrop. I don't have the BD version to compare but i believe this TT version to be about 80-90% similar, but less shiny and reflective. This picture was taken with flash. Here are the action poses. Any pose that BD can do, the TT can do it as well. The kneeling gimmick is also available but it is a bit too tight to implement. I nearly broke my nail trying to push the pelvic joints to the front. Weapons could be stored at the back like in the pciture. The samurai pose could be reproduced. The hands have problems holding the javelin and spear but as far as i know, the BD version also has this kind of problem. CONCLUSION This is the moment you've all been waiting for. The pros and cons as compared to the original BD kit: PROS Price is more than 50% cheaper. Plastic quality is about 80-90%. Honestly, I feel the plastic is harder to break compared to Kotobukiya's model kits. Completed kit's appearance is almost 100%. If you paint it nicely, i'm sure most people can't tell if it's a TT or BD. Construction manual is in Chinese and English, rather than Japanese which most of us don't understand. Articulation and poseability is 100% (unless there's some major moulding error, which is quite rare). CONS Most of the colors are inconsistent. Most of the surface are uneven and sometimes even has an oily feel to it. Some of the runners are curved (which leads to the next problem). Half of the parts have problem fitting in nicely. Almost every joint (from the PC runner) is very weak. Limbs and fingers tend to fall off like dead flies. Almost useless stickers and dry decals. POST SCRIPT By doing this review, i am in no way supporting or promoting piracy. I am merely providing the general public with a view on the quality of a TT model kit. If you have got the cash, it is ALWAYS better to get the original kit from BD. Thanks for reading until the end. Cheers. And happy modelling! luckily i bought the normal edition,it comes with water decal and colour of the kit is ok..
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

MyKy44	Jun 21 2010, 10:13 PM Show posts by this member only \| Post #1340
kaki bodek staff Senior Member 2,821 posts Joined: Jan 2008 From: klang	>>parody: i think i've done a lot of bad stuffs in the past. my SF gave me a lot of headache...
Card PM	Report Top Like Quote Reply

« Next Oldest · Hobbies, Collectibles and Model Kits · Next Newest »

126 Pages « < 65 66 67 68 69 > » Top

Topic ClosedOptions

Change to:

0.0354sec

1.00

6 queries

GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 13th December 2025 - 03:07 PM

All Rights Reserved © 2002- 2025 Vijandren Ramadass (~unite against racism~)

Removal Request

Powered by Invision Power Board © 2025 IPS, Inc.