For normal NA engine remapping, 10% increase already a lot (and very very difficult), your target number will require quite some additional physical modification. I have seen for those numbers, other than engine tuning, change both intake and exhaust camshafts and port the engine intake manifold, don't remember whether any mods were done on the exhaust; get almost 220hp, but costs 220g worth of gold.

Although skyactiv miata make that kind of HP numbers at stock, but the intake/exhaust tubing profile different, so a mere transplant won't work much wonders.

Partially also due to throttle mapping of the individual gears. If below 90km/h, downshift to gear 2 or 3 for better response; if above 90km/h, downshift to 4th. I'm not fond of the factory throttle mapping, always so eager to shift upwards (upshift to 5th gear is the most ridiculous one, default upshift at 48km/h, some more the throttle response on gear 5 is the most stunted of all gears). So i put to manual shift mode the moment i start go forward.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jul 25 2019, 03:14 PM

Only for mazda3 assembled in US, here tak de affected.....

If received, then go to nearest SC for them to do whatever they need to. Till now i didn't receive any such letter.

Basically it is to change the relay, so that it didn't get "stuck" from position outside it's resting position. Really not something serious and very rare despite we having rain so much more than the US.

Your side seems pretty proactive in reaching out to drivers....my area down south diam je....

i can't help but have that feeling like the hatchback seems like a sculptured computer mouse....

I'm not saying it looks gimicky, but the shape won't be out of place if it were a mouse

To all those who got their new rides, a big CONGRATULATIONS and many smiles as the miles pile on

Er...isn't it that just go petrol station pump air even more wallet friendly?

You still need to do it anyway, regardless of whether have TPMS or not.

If really die die want TPMS, suggest you get those that are powered externally. IF not when time for battery change, need to plug out the tyres from the rim.

If want original, i guess no choice but go mazda SC to buy.

If not, try going accessory shop to ask whether generic ones can work or not. But definitely no way of calibrating.

If you don't plan to keep it beyond 6 years, you can leave the problem to the future owner. The SC that you consulted is talking crap, other centres can do the job without this warranty void trash talk.

If not, please change. Options :
1) If damn scared, just do the fluid change, not more than RM150 only.
2) If you want to be a better job, include drop pan and filter change, clean up the accumulated mess inside the pan. Upwards of RM400, longer downtime as this car don't use physical rubber gasket for the transmission pan. It uses high temperature RTV gasket paste, this takes time to properly cure if want to do a proper job. Don't rush the job, if didn't apply/cure properly, any RTV pieces fall off and get caught up inside critical transmission fluid circuitry, you're in also in deep shit.
3) For a thorough job, option 2 + dialysis cleaning machine. Confirm clean up all the junk and replace all to clean fluid. Need to go to transmission specialist. Please don't confuse this method with flushing method. Flushing really high risk of killing this transmission. Most expensive of course, exact cost is unknown, but at least Rm600.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Aug 20 2019, 12:09 PM

i'm not from selangor area, i'm can't help you on this. Maybe you call cold a few SC in your preferred area and ask about the transmission fluid change job and the cost.

Now got the trend of "lifetime" fluid. It is total crap talk, but here is 2 logic behind this :
1) in the western countries, you can do your own simple maintenance without voiding the warranty. The issue with that is that quite some people don't know which fluid to put in and chose the wrong type of fluid, possibly damaging their transmission. Another error of self maintenance is under/over filling. Hence, the manufacturers want to save their butt from all these stupidity, they make access to transmission fluid fill hole to be less accessible and removed the transmission fluid dip stick (as opposed to the engine oil dip stick). Since there is no dip stick to "remind" the driver, naturally drivers will not think about it. Of course, they also made the fluid more robust, but there is nothing man made that is really indestructible.

Transmission fluid is more specific compared to engine oil. Even use wrong type of engine oil (viscosity or specification wise), very unlikely to kill the engine in the period of 1 oil change interval. Transmission fluid are very specific and type approved. Each has specific specification for the range/type of transmission. If in doubt, just get the original type approved transmission branded by the manufacturer itself. For mazda skyactiv range, it uses FZ, the fluid is light blue coloured and quite wattery.

2) the sinister part, planned obsolescence. Cars depreciate like mad, especially in developed markets. Anything more than 4-5 years, the car almost like no value. No value doesn't matter, as many sensible people will do, as long as it still drives well, keep it. Cars are still quite high priced purchase despite their relatively high yearly income. But if cars are made too durable, there would be very slow turnover of cars. Car makes still want people to buy cars as much as possible (more profits), so they make it up to a certain quality level and more likely to fail after certain period of time. If the transmission start to shift badly, and the driver bring it to the mechanic for a rebuild/buy new transmission, the cost seems prohibitive compared to the actual residual value of the car. So, the drivers would make the most economical choice, junk the car and get a new one. Don't need to deal with maintenance headache. Actually not only the transmission, but also other electrical components and sensors. Ever wondered why european branded cars usually have so much issue after 4/5 years old, it is no coincidence.

Their financial institution also seem to "pakat" with car makes, the lease period also coincide with the facelift cycle timing (assuming the driver buys the new model not too long after initial launch). So after lease period over, renew lease with the facelifted car. Woohoo....new car, no need to headache about extended maintenance.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Aug 20 2019, 04:12 PM

From what i know, hyundai/kia practices this also, just that their transmission filter almost double the size of the mazda. I'm not sure about the newer version, but from what i've read so far, their venerable 6 speed unit require a transmission drop to access the filter....

BMW/mini cooper also.

The manufacturers didn't give out wrong info, their "lifetime" is usually the lease period of 3-4 years. The period of faith lies within the warranty period, anything after warranty period, you sue also no point as it is a maintenance item. As i mentioned before, planned obsolescence, they just want you to junk the car after got problem (which usually starts after warranty period).

Unless it is an inherent issue in the very beginning (example : bad welding/premature rusting/loose assembly), this can sue regardless how old the car gets as long as under ownership.

My car approaching 5 years, still can shift quite ok, but start to feel a little rough and slower than when new. It is not significant but this starts occurring for me around 70k mileage only. Albeit, i do a lot of urban driving and manual shifting. I'm definitely going for at least a transmission fluid drain and fill this round.

You don't sound like a scam, just a seller bring confident with the product you're carrying.

But frankly, 3bond isn't that effective for engines with substantial mileage when the carbon buildup starts to cake up. Physical cleaning/walnut blasting is the most effective way, and probably more cost effective.

If preventative doing it every 5000km starting when car is new, maybe could do good. I've seen some people doing this kind of cleaning stuff, and this mazda skyactiv engine threw out codes due to internal sensor errors.

To be exact, oil catch can only reduce, not prevent that from happening. Need to also combine with using low volatility engine oil (which costs a fair bit more) like mobil1 esp, mobil1 ep, ravenol dxg, amsoil signature series, etc.

If i know how to DIY, i would do a double catch can solution with home made steel wool insert for better oil condensation. Just that maintenance can be a little pain in the ass because you need to remember to empty the can. If you forgot and it flowed back to the tube and clog it, you're shit.

if your car red colour, you paint red also no feeling. I'm not sure about the volume of condensation in the catch can. Some say every month empty it (almost quarter full), some say every oil change (i assume six month la) about a quarter.

Don't know mana satu betul? Or the former one more "effective" is capturing the fumes

More and more cars will be direct injected. Although, some more modern toyotas have both port and direct injection.

Just don't hold your breath that the direction will be this kind of twin injection, because it costs money to implement and added complexity of 2 different types of fuel delivery system.




eh...why you don't update your blog anymore?

No dealership will do aftermarket installation that is not officially provided. They will only do updates on the software and firmware for you.

You'll need to seek external help or if you're familiar with any of the technicians within the dealers, you can seek their help but definitely at your own risk.

Tap the fuse at the fuse box on the front passenger side, you'll see an almost triangular cover near the leg rest area.

Sounds like your transmission need some servicing.

Head to khang auto transmission centre at tampoi industrial park. If i'm not mistaken, should be around opposite of f&n.

yes

can google for exact location

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Sep 26 2019, 03:43 PM

i did that once, almost 3 years ago, car still alive today

Go test drive both cars kaw kaw, don't be shy to request for extended drive so you can cover those routes you use daily. Bring additional passenger/children and your usual barang barang (cushion/baby seats/sport equipment/sunglasses/water bottle/car usb handphone charger/handphone holder/bicycle/etc). See how these fit inside the car. The idea is to replicate your life with it, then you see how those things fit into the car.

If you can't make up your mind, don't just get enamored by the exterior design, look into objective points on whether it helps/hinder your driving well being. If you can wait, just wait out to experience the facelifted civic first hand, then decide, don't rush.

But there is just one thing that the civic wins hands down. Years down the road, it will be easier to dispose the civic at a reasonable price compared to the mazda3.

Previous generation NVH cannot compare with similar competitor like the civic, altis, sylphy. It is not bad, just not as good. Compounded by the really harsh sounding factory fitted tyres (especially for high spec 18in). Even new gen vios seems to be slightly better. You get the gist...if not just go test drive yourself on a familiar route with your favourite music or radio channel.

2019 new generation much improved, almost segment leading. Still the same shitty harsh factory fitted tyres but that can be easily rectified with a tyre swap in due time.