who want to swap foc

don't want chapalang no brand rim+unknown china brand tyre wor.....

you're welcome.

Unless you tried out the new mazda3 or used to other similar segment cars, then it is possible you maybe annoyed by the NVH. But other than that, if you're coming from an older car, not much issues adjusting.

Worse come to worst, just spend some money to get aftermarket soundproofing, mainly on rear boot, wheel arches, roof and doors. Limit your budget to 3k.

Can consider this fitter that i came across (never tried it myself though) :
https://www.facebook.com/mahihisoundproofing/

ya hor....didn't realise that until you say it....

You're right, newer generation 18in used bridgestones.

If you know what you are doing/what to do, your maintenance cost is minimal. What major maintenance item your source is telling you about?

If you say certain rubber/plastic and interior trim pieces lower quality, then possible la....because mostly due to CKD. Actually, all mainstream non premium brand similar level of quality....all built to cost, built to last is never coming back anymore (even for premium brands). The greatest value comes in after sales service and also reliability. Wear and tear spare parts are actually the least of your concerns as proper manufacturers has a minimum standard of quality to meet set by brand HQ (clone/fake parts is another story). And if you do your maintenance schedule properly, unless you damn suay, the wear and tear parts will at least last till your next scheduled service.

I give you one example, the factory front brake pad is actually pretty lasting, i'm almost 80k mileage and upon physical inspection, can definitely still last till 90k and possibly to the 100k mark. This is low quality? I'm driving 80% urban environment with lots of traffic lights, jams and humps. And when the road is clear, i don't baby the accelerator either. If you want downside, then i will say it is the bushings. But it affects the car refinement wise, noisy in certain circumstances, but didn't affect the handling in any way.

WTF is the workshop trying to play with you, i last time emergency go change battery at authorised SC, costs me 550 with 18 months warranty (some SC even charge lesser), mana ada 800? Even i myself change my battery to top end AGM type battery also didn't cost me 800. So, who the f*** is that fellor?

Useless and unethical in my opinion, just get out of his workshop forever.
Can get slightly cheaper than the pricing range even with good reputable brands.

don't

just change your transmission fluid every 3 years.

18-24 months on average

ask your dealer first when the istop warning won't go away (initially the warning indicator will go on and off), whether can claim warranty.

change outside won't affect warranty, provided in is EFB type.

anyway, just disable it when you start the car. Start/stop practically useless.

Just have to live with it, unlikely the SC will be able to "fix" it to reach to your expectations.

A good quality tint can help.

Initially, just after you collect your car, did you check the tyre pressure? Usually tyre pressure straight from factory is very high (up to 350kpa), driving with that kind of pressure makes the car feels nervous when changing directions. Not all SA will do this simple job of adjusting the tyre pressure to recommended pressure for you. I only realised this after driving for 2 weeks after collection.

If you say go change to ps4 because feel like corner grip not nice with factory tyre, ok can understand.

But if you say feel like "float", you just wasted almost 2k, because it will still feel like "float" with ps4.

You should look into suspension to deal with your issue. Or maybe the very fact of adjusting the pressure to recommended pressure range would've solved your problem. Regardless, ps4 is a really good tyre.

open the driver door, just below the door latch, there's a sticker that shows the pressure range. For me, i just pump near the upper range, 260-270kpa.

front suspension squek/ngek ngek sound, forget about the factory/original replacement, practically useless. I changed 3 sets under warranty and problem still persist. Get the superpro replacement version a try :
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/superpro...BoBqgs&search=1

(if you have friends/family holiday/coming back from australia, buy from : https://trackwarrior.com.au/) cheaper

I just got mine, but haven't put it on. Will get it done at my upcoming service few months down.

another issue is the brake caliper pin design, doesn't affect braking performance, but also got the annoying mild knocking sound. Possible remedy is something like this slightly modified caliper pin :
https://shopee.com.my/10mm-CALIPER-PIN-WITH...7756.2444678744

I've not tried it, but planning to, also during my next service.

1) you go SC ask better, it is not that much different compared to honda/toyota
2) front suspension noise (ngek ngek sound), some got brake caliper knocking sound (i have this also)
3) depends but noticeable, no adverse effect to handling/braking, just annoyance.
4) can, just pay additional pressing labour fee. The reason why workshop ask to change whole set because to earn more profit, and also additional labour/time involved just to push out old bush and push in new bush. See my post in the previous page, got the links for better replacement parts compared to mazda's own.
5) just change the fluid every 2 years, go SC to do it, not more than rm50 more expensive (inclusive labour and genuine mazda fz fluid) than service outside. Changing the transmission filter has more involvement (you can do that at 100k km mark), get someone experienced in doing it because it is not a simple pan drop and replace affair.

The knocking noise usually occur when driving in uneven roads, then you hear something like krug krug/tuk tuk sounds. When yours only reverse parking, could be something else.

Mine on both dry and wet.

Jacked up the car, saw that the lower arm main bushing has some cracks on it even though only less than 2 years when i last claimed warranty fix.

I guess it is fault at material engineering level, hence no matter how many times replaced, still the same issue. Really can forget about the warranty

Hope this doesn't plague the new generation variant.


1st issue could also relate to the tie rod link ends, most likely also due to the bushing. I'm not sure whether i have this because i have quite a lot of clunk and squeks now.

2nd one is likely the caliper pin, can just buy the shopee one for a try, RM50 for a set, no harm trying. Should reduce quite a portion of the clunking over uneven undulations.

If you're still under warranty, heck, might as well make their life hell and eat up their margin. Or else, just get after market parts.

No need to change the whole arm, just get the superpro bushings shall suffice. I provided the links some posts earlier.

you try looking up this fellor :
https://www.mudah.my/li?ca=12_s&id=293299

you should hear how mercedes' one sounds....

anyway, still way quieter than a manual handbrake right? But i have no qualms with manual handbrake, in fact i prefer it over e handbrake.

Open up the side panel in the boot to access the jack, there's a tightening screw. Unsrew it, adjust the jack position a bit, rescrew it back.

Do it likewise for the spare tyre compartment.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 30 2020, 04:12 PM

Any SC can do it, very simple job for them....

The trickier one is actually the transmission filter change.

At the SC, all in inclusive of transmission fluid change, around the range of rm500-600.

Just that some SC very kanasai, because transmission filter change is not a scheduled maintenance job, so don't want to do the job.

Shop a few SC around you or get an experienced 3rd party mechanic to do the job, could also be cheaper. And please, only use original mazda atf FZ fluid.

If just pure transmission fluid change, most SC are alright with it, very easy, almost like oil change. Won't void warranty, don't understand why the SC you visited don't want to do this job. Just find another SC then.

What i refer earlier is inclusive of transmission filter change, this one more labourious. Because the skyactiv transmission oil pan don't have a physical gasket, but use a special RTV sealant, probably due to reaction of the fluid against the rubber. To refit the pan is a little pain in the ass, you can refer to some youtube videos on the process.

The original fluid and filter cost about 200 each, add in labour and some consumables, 500-600 is actually about there.

Life long is bull shit

Unless your own your car like typical lease period of 3-4 years, then the 3-4 years is the "life long".

Just go another SC. On my end, SC no questions asked other than asking for money

other than the 5w30 shell helix hx7 provided by the service centre, i've used :
1) formula shell 5w30 fully synthetic
2) mobil1 esp 5w30
3) petronas syntium 5000 xs 5w30
4) mobil1 ep 5w30

All worked fine, none of them that much outstanding than the other.