Hi, I'm looking to upgrade my car, A Myvi 1.5 Manual Lagi Best version from 2012 ( First Batch ) from NA to either B.O.T or Turbo Charged ( The Real Deal )

Currently heard some foremen's advice to upgrade my original twin cam to high cam (unsure whether it's supposed to be single high cam or twin high cam), upgrade the piston to bigger forged pistons, crankshaft, and so on.. ( actually i am very new in this field.. Hopefully all sifus can guide me on how to self-cultivate or etc.

Price Negotiated from 2 foremen ( 2 different company )

* Workshop A : ( Halfcut YRV; just take all the wiring, turbo kits, piston rods, high cam, etc that's needed for my car while retaining my 1.5 engine because 1.3 YRV is still lower than 1.5 3SZ, while the boost can be maintained higher approx at 1.6 bar from the 0.7 bar from YRV engine output. )

Damage : RM 13++k approx ( include labour & approx 1 month or more of installing *no Dyno included )

* Workshop B : Just install a second hand YRV engine and remove my existing 1.5 engine ( meaning downgrade from 1.5 to 1.3 )

Damage : RM 11++k approx ( include labour & 1 full month of tuning *no Dyno included )

If anyone is dealing with such business and or are providing such services, please quote me your best price with your services & equipment included.

For those who ask why i don't just change my myvi & get a better originally turbo charged beast. The answer is i am like those who grow a relationship with their car and hard to let go type of people.

Edit : 21/10/2017

I'm situated at Bukit Jalil, Kuala Lumpur by the way. Please direct quote me your pricing, equipment used, duration of the project, and location of your workshop.

Edit : 26/10/2017

If anyone has B.O.T for Myvi 1.5 Manual ( Lagi Best Version "12 ), Please quote me your pricing. You can either pm me or reply in this post



This post has been edited by Viino: Oct 26 2017, 09:01 AM

i appologize, i cannot understand some of whats mentioned here.
i ahve one recommendation... you should mention where you are located... inb4 someone suggests a place in sabah.

k3vet from yrv is way powerful than 1.5 3sz. dont just look at the cc. look at the hp and torque.
btw, how fast u wanna go? to me..bot at 3sz is enough. no need high boost. the car is light enough.

Oops, Sorry.. I'm situated at bukit jalil, Kuala Lumpur...

Please quote me your best pricing & location of workshop + duration of the project..

If can, please quote me with the details of the items you're using... ( crankshaft.. high cam, etc. )

Suggest u upgrade your brakes when u upgrading hp. Myvi has weak brakes.

Bump post

( Please quote best price if you have such services as topic post )

This thread reminded me when I was a newbie and wanted to bot my myvi... Ended up I kena slaughter by speedworks. Rm12k for the turbocharger kit. After 6 months, the engine blow..

My advice is, research about the turbocharger system. See what your engine is capable of(boost wise) and find suitable parts that fit your budget. If you have alot of money.go for stand alone ecu, good turbocharger , aluminium piping & exhaust, Dyno tune

If u find people to build for you, firstly.they are going to advice you based on your budget,then calculated in their profit margin to slaughter you.... Hence parts used isn't fully utilized according to your budget and needs..you may get some low quality China turbo and just a e manage ultimate, but end up getting charged about 10k.because turbo..lol

btw... high cam and twin cam you also cannot differentiate. i hope you don't get conned.

This post has been edited by xemoboyx: Oct 26 2017, 10:28 AM

suggest you get a proper sport car rather than BOT on typical cheap car. get a proper performance engine, to be honest, force induction on fuel saving engine is completely waste of money, im sure 13k is a small amount, i suggest you buy another myvi and do both mods, so u can have to option to choose rather than 1.

base on TS logic, gettin a superbike is a bad idea. before reaching 5000km on the odometer, he will be in pieces

This post has been edited by DigitalMop: Oct 26 2017, 05:59 PM

unfortunately i can imagine this is a likely case...

What would you suggest? Buy a better spec car ( Honda FD or Nissan Silvia S15? )
Or just go ahead with spending a chunk of money to mod my current car?

what kind of performance engine car would you suggest? RM160k below car would be alright?

why would you say that?

I prefer the Japanese style of modifying cars than the american way of buying an altered / heavily modified ORIGINAL car. That is like buying an original Honda CRZ than cruising on the highway like a LALA.

I used to loved bikes before the malaysian trend aka suka suka tukar lane serupa jalan bapak ku started by switching lanes whenever they like without looking at the sides ( etc motors coming through then kena smashed or kepit like hamburgers )

duh~

Take a good long time to do your research and ground works on your project. Go ask the shops, ask owners of such system, search for modded myvi clubs and have a good fundamental understanding on the system and components. Or else, you'll get into trouble very easily.

Don't just rely merely on the mechanic you work with, you must have real understanding and what you want realistically. Or else, you'll just create misunderstanding between you and the mechanic and the mechanic will just make up assumptions on things you can't clearly convey. This is where the blame game starts.

Component wise, you'll be spoiled by choices depending on your budget. But please take note on some really crucial but often neglected issue, sealing. That means at least a good aftermarket gasket and new bolts to screw the top and block together. Next is cooling. You must budget in these or else you're likely to end up burning money.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Oct 27 2017, 10:10 AM

for that money you can get alot fyi...

bro,search in fb (turbodottcomm)..go to their shop and tell them what you want with what is your budget. i've seen them working on a lot of alza which having the same engine as yours.

I'd plonk in the yrv instead. less hassle, wiring all kautim so no need to kacuk

i already give u my advice.....

160k, you can afford quite a few decent performance cars...

evo X?
scooby?

you will obviously get more performance and reliability from those 2

I think better go rebuild ur 1.5 and bot it than swapping an old yrv turbo it should be slight cheaper than getting a yrv. The 3sz bot should have higher potential than a 1.3 yrv. If you want play stock internals then go below 0.6 boost i suggest, it should achieve around 150hp ady better than the stock yrv around 130hp. And bot can be done less than a week it should cost around 6-7k if u using back ur stock internals.

pls pm me list of workshops i can go to... or ur contact

Wah. New kid on the block mau main turbo. Nice to know there are still some enthusiast around. Here’s some uncle advise and prepare for a wall of text.

Workshop A. You’re basically gutting your old internal and replace with a YRV internal. Plus point is its half of rebuilding an engine. Negative points? Plenty. It all relies on the workmanship of the mechanic. If you’re using stock YRZ ECU, then its fine. If you’re using standalone or piggy back, you will need to do a lot of fine tuning. Price is somewhat high but if you BOT on your engine without touching the block, its less than half of the price you posted. Harga sebelum GST ok?

Workshop B. I call this plug and play. Basically you take a working turbo car and plung it into your own. Now this involves registering of the new engine hence JPJ involvement is needed. Plus point is, lesser headache of fixing hardware problems. Compatibility is not an issue here compared to option A. However, similar to Option A, the wiring portion is the most critical one. If the wiring man do a wrong wiring, its very hard to find another wiring man to trouble shoot the error. Because its troublesome and the labor cost is not worth it. If you have a good wiring man, you can get by without any problem. I’ve seen my buddies having trouble getting wiring folks to fix their car after transplant.

Personally I would recommend you to research more. Learn more before diving into it. You’re going to spend a lot of money doing mods and fixing problems. Best to know the basic at least you won’t get conned. I have learned there is no bad hardware. Normally engine blow can be factored into the following reason. A. Poor tuning. B. damage pressure regulator, e.g wastegate or BOV. C. Greedy owner or Tuner hunting for higher power and overboost or boost spike the car. D. Poor maintenance on the car. I had my fair share of adventure of DIY my car to turbo. Back in those days it was a taboo to BOT as many has claimed it is fairly difficult and only a few managed to do it safely. However, after learning the basics its not really difficult. As long as you stay in the save zone its fine. Oh, for boost level, try to stick below 1 bar if you BOT. You can go higher but I would least recommend it unless your setup is good. For transplant, you can go higher due to the nature of the strengthened block and the low compression piston. But try to go through the route of reflashing rather than piggybacking. Standalones are another better option to consider but nothing beats the old trusty ECU where it’s tailored to work with your engine.

Please recommend me a good myvi club.. or any clubs that has myvi enthusiats inside would be nice.

Hey vervain.. i met with a workshop in cheras, tmn len sen who would do it for me for a better price.. Hence, I save much more.. Reason so is his satria is modded in the same way i was going to do it.. Power is great, ECU use back my own & with 1.7 psi bar boost. is that okay?

Scooby? what car is that? sorry i'm a nerd in car classes.

I'm not aware of it as i don't own myvi, you could search/ask around at the myvi owner club :
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3162680

scooby = subby = subaru = subaru wrx/wrx sti

i think that what he meant...

1.7 BAR PSI BOOST. kek.



PSI and BAR is 2 different reading. Hopeless... again. i hope you don't get conned out there...

What I would do is just get that YRV K3-VET halfcut , overhaul it and plonk in. Reliability ? Sure it is, since Toyota already done all the R&D on the stock engine. You rojak your 3SZ-VE and K3-VET wont guarantee you reliability. There is no shame in downsizing the displacement but getting more power than original engine. Well that is how European cars these days are going for. Don't chase power so much the stock YRV engine is really good enough, aim for reliability since you wont enjoy having the car sitting at workshop most of the time than actually driving it.

So how is botting a Myvi different again?

Add 1 more comment bout option 1.
Because you'll end up with an engine with mixed internals (and you've already mentioned you'd like to continue keeping this car), do make sure you know what component is from what vehicle, OR your regular mechanic knows it and gets the right part.

The last thing you want is someone removing them, orders the wrong parts, forcefully fitting them in then causes other issues dowm the road.

Get a second hand 208GTi around 90k, 200hp manual, still with factory warranty recently extended from 5 to 7 years . It has stronger chassis and better stock brake than Myvi.

so what is the most street wise turbo charged car to play ( with a low budget gua ) with? and to talk about legal.. or a good 10 second car is good enough ( No myvi pls, wanna change from it )

Myvi already like the fastest thing on Malaysian road... still need faster meh ?

I use K20A and K24 also sked, always get cucuk and overtaken by stock Myvis, even Axias


But TS, been seriously modding for years, my advise my young padawan, save the money and get a better car.
Of course your choice finally

https://www.mudah.my/1996+Proton+wira+GSR+Turbo-61882103.htm
https://www.mudah.my/Proton+Wira+sohc+turbo...M+-61372544.htm
Have fun...

This post has been edited by GoldenHawk: Dec 22 2017, 02:06 PM

Satria and myvi are two different cars. If I can turbo charge a Kancil, am I qualified to turbo charge continental car or even a hypercar? Sorry I'm not doubting his ability but most mechanics tend to use live customer as a test bait for research. they never do before and use another car to convince them.

Kancil, wira. But in all honesty by the time you upped the upgrade kits and other essentials, it's more or less buying a used GTI with the same performance. I know I will get flame for this statement but it's true. People just have to understand there is always a limit. You can put a 4g63t engine in a Kancil. Chop here chop there to surgically fit. But the chassis was never design to take up so much of stress.

This post has been edited by Vervain: Dec 23 2017, 12:49 AM

Got it bro... I have decided not go to on with my myvi's modification but instead opt for a better performance car & superior reliability than risking my car going in for a near absolute 50/50 catasthrope cosmetic surgery.. Now got my eyes on the old school Honda Prelude or S15 Nissan Silvia J Spec original from its true makers...

I think you need to research more before you even think about this. As you say, you are new to this.

1.6 Bar of boost. Optimistic much? A stock evo X spikes to 1.6 before settling down at a far more manageable 1.2. There is a lot to be done to run 1.6. Do you know why/what needs to be done?




The more you know, the less likely you will end up with a lemon or being carroted by a shop.

10 second car?

You mean 10 second 0-100 or 10 second 1/4 mile?



LOL.

You need about 600hp to get a 10 second 1/4 mile. Start looking.

Are you trolling?

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jan 2 2018, 11:34 AM