i appologize, i cannot understand some of whats mentioned here.
i ahve one recommendation... you should mention where you are located... inb4 someone suggests a place in sabah.

k3vet from yrv is way powerful than 1.5 3sz. dont just look at the cc. look at the hp and torque.
btw, how fast u wanna go? to me..bot at 3sz is enough. no need high boost. the car is light enough.

This thread reminded me when I was a newbie and wanted to bot my myvi... Ended up I kena slaughter by speedworks. Rm12k for the turbocharger kit. After 6 months, the engine blow..

My advice is, research about the turbocharger system. See what your engine is capable of(boost wise) and find suitable parts that fit your budget. If you have alot of money.go for stand alone ecu, good turbocharger , aluminium piping & exhaust, Dyno tune

If u find people to build for you, firstly.they are going to advice you based on your budget,then calculated in their profit margin to slaughter you.... Hence  parts used isn't fully utilized according to your budget and needs..you may get some low quality China turbo and just a e manage ultimate, but end up getting charged about 10k.because turbo..lol

btw... high cam and twin cam you also cannot differentiate. i hope you don't get conned. 

suggest you get a proper sport car rather than BOT on typical cheap car. get a proper performance engine, to be honest, force induction on fuel saving engine is completely waste of money, im sure 13k is a small amount, i suggest you buy another myvi and do both mods, so u can have to option to choose rather than 1.

base on TS logic, gettin a superbike is a bad idea. before reaching 5000km on the odometer, he will be in pieces 

Are you seriously considering spending upward of $13k on a MYVI? If you're a speed junkie why not buy a super bike? The adrenaline from riding a bike is better ma. Ayam cannot brain

I think better go rebuild ur 1.5 and bot it than swapping an old yrv turbo it should be slight cheaper than getting a yrv. The 3sz bot should have higher potential than a 1.3 yrv. If you want play stock internals then go below 0.6 boost i suggest, it should achieve around 150hp ady better than the stock yrv around 130hp. And bot can be done less than a week it should cost around 6-7k if u using back ur stock internals.

Take a good long time to do your research and ground works on your project. Go ask the shops, ask owners of such system, search for modded myvi clubs and have a good fundamental understanding on the system and components. Or else, you'll get into trouble very easily.

Don't just rely merely on the mechanic you work with, you must have real understanding and what you want realistically. Or else, you'll just create misunderstanding between you and the mechanic and the mechanic will just make up assumptions on things you can't clearly convey. This is where the blame game starts.

Component wise, you'll be spoiled by choices depending on your budget. But please take note on some really crucial but often neglected issue, sealing. That means at least a good aftermarket gasket and new bolts to screw the top and block together. Next is cooling. You must budget in these or else you're likely to end up burning money.

Wah. New kid on the block mau main turbo. Nice to know there are still some enthusiast around. Here’s some uncle advise and prepare for a wall of text.

Workshop A. You’re basically gutting your old internal and replace with a YRV internal. Plus point is its half of rebuilding an engine. Negative points? Plenty. It all relies on the workmanship of the mechanic. If you’re using stock YRZ ECU, then its fine. If you’re using standalone or piggy back, you will need to do a lot of fine tuning. Price is somewhat high but if you BOT on your engine without touching the block, its less than half of the price you posted. Harga sebelum GST ok?

Workshop B. I call this plug and play. Basically you take a working turbo car and plung it into your own. Now this involves registering of the new engine hence JPJ involvement is needed. Plus point is, lesser headache of fixing hardware problems. Compatibility is not an issue here compared to option A. However, similar to Option A, the wiring portion is the most critical one. If the wiring man do a wrong wiring, its very hard to find another wiring man to trouble shoot the error. Because its troublesome and the labor cost is not worth it. If you have a good wiring man, you can get by without any problem. I’ve seen my buddies having trouble getting wiring folks to fix their car after transplant.

Personally I would recommend you to research more. Learn more before diving into it. You’re going to spend a lot of money doing mods and fixing problems. Best to know the basic at least you won’t get conned. I have learned there is no bad hardware. Normally engine blow can be factored into the following reason. A. Poor tuning. B. damage pressure regulator, e.g wastegate or BOV. C. Greedy owner or Tuner hunting for higher power and overboost or boost spike the car. D. Poor maintenance on the car. I had my fair share of adventure of DIY my car to turbo. Back in those days it was a taboo to BOT as many has claimed it is fairly difficult and only a few managed to do it safely. However, after learning the basics its not really difficult. As long as you stay in the save zone its fine. Oh, for boost level, try to stick below 1 bar if you BOT. You can go higher but I would least recommend it unless your setup is good. For transplant, you can go higher due to the nature of the strengthened block and the low compression piston. But try to go through the route of reflashing rather than piggybacking. Standalones are another better option to consider but nothing beats the old trusty ECU where it’s tailored to work with your engine.

160k, you can afford quite a few decent performance cars...

evo X?
scooby?

you will obviously get more performance and reliability from those 2

Satria and myvi are two different cars. If I can turbo charge a Kancil, am I qualified to turbo charge continental car or even a hypercar? Sorry I'm not doubting his ability but most mechanics tend to use live customer as a test bait for research. they never do before and use another car to convince them.
Kancil, wira. But in all honesty by the time you upped the upgrade kits and other essentials, it's more or less buying a used GTI with the same performance. I know I will get flame for this statement but it's true. People just have to understand there is always a limit. You can put a 4g63t engine in a Kancil. Chop here chop there to surgically fit. But the chassis was never design to take up so much of stress.