Shimano 16-24 speed… even 2nd hand also rare.
*PS forget about 24, or 3 chainring, you don't need it and you can't afford it.

Only you can decide. IMHO, don't rush, test drive is the only way to find out. Rent, borrow, bribe or steal one of each to cycle for an hour or so. A 5 min Ronda in a loop doesn't say enough.
It also partly up to your fitness level… but if you are not fit now, you will get up to speed after commuting a month or 2. Do take that into account too.
Also, you must make up your mind on how small is small enough for your use... For storage and portability, it's never too small; For cycling, it's never too big....
So many choices! Headache! LOL

This post has been edited by KenC: Oct 27 2017, 05:47 PM

Bicycle tire size specification is ridiculous! It took me many moons to finally figure out what my own tires are. With the same "20 in" there are only 3 different type with the same notation. The worst is "26 inch" it under Imperial alone it has 6~7 types on top of that there are Franch, Italy and Japan standard… and a few more types in each…

This post has been edited by KenC: Oct 28 2017, 04:46 PM

I puzzle why the 305 is call 16" 305 is only 12", unless you use 50mm or 2" tires… maybe the are referring to the mudguard size.
If you check your ruler, 20 in is 610mm, how to relate 406 and 451 to 20" is as mysterious as our formula for our petrol price.

This post has been edited by KenC: Oct 28 2017, 06:51 PM

Not circumference. But The clincher catch diameter.
Circumframce of 451 is 451x3.142= definitely not 20inch, 406x3.142=not even close to 20inch…
1 inch = 25.4mm 451mm =17.75inch, 406mm=16inch…
So it's still doesn't make sense.

It's a mystery…

This post has been edited by KenC: Oct 30 2017, 02:37 AM

700c, also a mystery…
Anything with an alphabet as last digit are French, 650B, 650A, 650C, by definition, A is narrowest, C is widest, but in the market tires having 650c printed on it is always the smallest (17c-19c) and 650A only comes in 1-3/8" width, I know because I need a pair of 650A aka EA3 AKA standard British 3 speed aka 26"x1-3/8" On my fake basikal tua. No this is not the same as MTB 26er which is another mystery…
Anyway, 700c is 622, to get to 700, you need tires at least 39mm tall… got or not?
More mystery to solve before we can get to the Bigfoot mystery…
I have strong believe 700c refer to the mudguard size, not the tire size

This post has been edited by KenC: Oct 30 2017, 02:30 AM

AFAIK no 20" Panaracer Paselas local offerings. Marathon Plus for 406 is available at roda link but I am not sure.

All dry lube can't survive the slightest wet road. you must reapply after every wet ride or bike wash. Also, manufacture specify 300km for dedicated dry lube. PTFE spray lube are not expensive, 20~30 can get. But the frequent reapplying piles up and gets a wee bit irritating…

I brew my own paraffin wax. I offer free waxing if you degrease your chain 1st. My paraffin wax recipy can ride in rain, flooded road and last at least 800km (still going) without reapplying, washing or cleaning.
My current bragging phrase "I buy bicycle to ride, not to wash"

Most decent bicycle shops can true your wheel for a decent fee. 10~20. You can DIY if you wish. Plenty of YouTube to guide you even if you just touch a bicycle for the first time.

*parafin wax formula floating around the internet are hoax, they won't last 200km… don't ask how I know
**try my wax before judging. Follow my guides. I am no authority on wax lube but I tried everything you may think is right…

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 1 2017, 06:39 PM

You planned to change your chainring and Cassatte? Since you have 6 bikes, I pressumed your legs are not wimpy, the drive train combo will be way too low for you.
You will still need another ~100 for the pedals, ~300 for the cheapest double chainring Crankset + shifter + front derailleur, and optional 11-28t 9 speed cassette. Still just under your 2k limit.

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 1 2017, 06:42 PM

However hard I try, buying used parts, lowest grade parts, used bike, ori-cina parts… one still ended up spending around 1.2k on both my bike. And I am sure there will be more capital expenditure sooner or later… (having repeating dream of a 3000 wheelset… or is it a nightmare? )

It's true you can adapt any bike to you preference，its also true that we human are flexible enough to adapt to most bike.

Don't worry about future upgrade, you WILL modify your bike, its inevidable. Period.

Cheap bike expensive bike or opulent bike, it's all up to your objectives. Be it sport instrument, exercise machine, show casing your exquisite taste, flashing your wealth… up to you la. There are no top limit to price tag, 30k bike can be had, 24k wheelset got sell also…

My point is, earlier you buy a bike, earlier you start exercising (or whatever that you had in mind). Earlier you start on the job training… just buy the bike you don't mind throwing away. It will be painless.

*PS, you can always put the blame on cheaper bike… a huge bonus!

As for me, I am a hoarder, I don't sell my bike… hence, I always blame my bike even when I don't believe a word I say

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 1 2017, 07:27 PM

You very hard working. I didn't clean my chain since after Chinese new year…

I am not picky with tires. My requirements are simple. At least 1-3/8 wide, supple tire, slick. I don't ride fast enough to notice tire grip. Slip a few time on smooth wet concrete floor because of my novice bike handling skill. Downhill, flat, uphill in heavy rain, never fast enough to loose grip. No I don't charge into sand and mud intentionally... not a hero

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 1 2017, 07:48 PM

Know order 53T + 11-25t, sure Keng wan.

Your bike dirty becos got excessive oil ler. My bike no rust, no grease. If I must, I can rub it down with damp cloth. And because it's not greasy, I am willing to check the drive train more often. No need wash hand afterward.
You should get a replacement chain.

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 1 2017, 08:22 PM

U all very strong leg ooo!
I also priorities cadance, even if the speed drop to a crawl. Keep changing gears to achieve that. My focus is cardiovascular exercise and not building strength... BUT if one cycle enough, strength will improve overtime, like it or not.

I try to always pedaling lightly all the way even on downhill… otherwise the average speed will be below 10kmh.

From my experiments, butt pain is due to not enough cycling

It takes months and months and thousands of km to build up strength and stamina, but loosing them if I stop cycling for 2~3 weeks… damn! It's harder than keeping money in my wallet…

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 2 2017, 07:19 PM

Wah! 10kg so light! Mine is also very light, 15kg only

This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 2 2017, 07:23 PM

Can you be more specific? Most of us here do 100km ride during weekends… (well it's the only time to do anyway)
Plenty do 200km in a day too…

It's actually how far your legs can carry you... the bike don't move by itself other than falling down a Clift.
Number of speed doesn't matter if you can cover the gear ratio you need. Eg. From klang to teluk intan, flat all the way, single speed also can.


This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 3 2017, 08:45 PM

For distance cycling, weight is the least important criteria, have you seen anyone cycle from England to Malaysia in a light bicycle set up?
Doing a few hundred km is easy as long as there are no time limit. Pit stop every 20km and rest as long as you want and continue. No biggie.
You don't need expensive components too, just get parts that are cheap enough to bother with and you can easily squeeze 1~2000km of life from them. But got don't go all extremely and get a rm10 chain and Crankset la… be rational. Very high end (expensive end) components are for weight Winnie's, not built for durability due to extreme weight cutting (material cutting la) eg, ultegra cassette are design for under 1000km, and claris cassette are meant to last over 1000km... Ultralight carbon wheelset will never outlast a solid alloy wheelset... no carbon frame can win a crash test against steel frame…

I totally agree with Fatani on gear range. My legs are wimpy, I need at least 450% for hilly terrain. But on the flat, 300% will do the job of riding up flyover.

*PS
Single chainring
25/11 = 227%
28/11 = 255%
32/11 = 291%
36/11 = 327%

Multiple chainring
53/39 * 26/11 = 305%
52/36 * 34/11 = 446% (this is what I use 8sp 52/36T + 11-34t)
50/11 = 455% (1x11sp 11-50t will give wider range than the one I use, will definatatelty use this when I build a big wheel bike)


This post has been edited by KenC: Nov 4 2017, 03:03 AM

GCK every month buy a new bike.… bought a new house to park them yet? LOL

I can dispose off your Tern for free.

Tak baik tipu tau.