The Schwalbe Racer is 1.5" and it don't last as long as the Marathon Plus or Supreme. Is it because of the treads? No worries, the Supreme and the Plus is pretty good too and the rolling resistance , I think the Supreme is much better with less treads. If you read through a website, actually foldie or roadies tires are too narrow to actually make a difference in tread patterns. Most of the time, just a narrow part of the whole width is actually in contact with the tarmac, so the treads makes no difference, unless you are talking about wider tires like the Big Apple or the Maxxis DTH. More important is the rubber compounds that makes the tires. Even the bald Kojak sticks to the tarmac but the compound is sticky when hot.

I think the original rims should be able to handle all three models of the Marathons though. But the 1.5" tires on the 1.5 wide rims will lower the bike just a bit....just a bit.

There's no point using the old rims if you want to change the hubs. The original 7 speed wheelset is single layer. If possible, get double layered rims. If price is a factor, you can get the WTB 20 inch wheelset which is around 300 bucks only. I don't know if it is still in the market though. The non QR hubs can be converted to QRs. The shaft used in the non QR are solid but hollow ones can be found in most local bike shops. The shafts are cheap and the rear ones needs no further modifications, just dismantle the original and transfer the components on the new hollow shaft but the front ones needs to be sawn off though as Dahons are only 73 mm wide and most front shafts are 100 mm. Another problem is......... I don't know if you can find 73 mm QRs.

PM me if you want an 8,9 or 10 speed wheelset. I am thinking of changing mine anyway. That is , if you are interested lah!

Kimbell Jaya do stock them but I am not sure now.

The last price before the last increase was a 2 speed Brompton on offer as the last unit and it was sold for RM4200. After that, no 2 speeds or 3 speeds id popular, only the 6 speed is. So, if you are thinking of getting the lowest spec and modify later, the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub gear is not cheap either but you do have the option of getting the 5 speed which converts it to 10 speed later though. Yes, Sturmeys are now Taiwanese and not British and they have came out with 5 speed of which the internals can be fitted into the 3 speed hub casing. The internals are available in UK. Here, nobody brings in let alone do it. But you can buy the whole 5 speed Sturmeys.

You can also try the 8 speed Sturmeys but I didn't read the literature about it so I can't comment but I do know they are available. So, there's pros and cons about getting the single and 2 speed lowest spec Bromtons. Just be warned though, since Bromptons are expensive, even though everything is basic simple stuffs, they charge premium because they know you can afford it.

Just like Naza charges RM1600 without labour for Peugeot timing belt change while non-authorized specialist charges RM900 with labour or a RM500 rear wheel bearing and respectively only RM120 . Likewise with Peugeot or Bromptons for that matter , they threaten you with warranty default. if you do it somehwere else.

Not that level yet lah ! Ferrari do have bikes made by Bianchi and their price is 76K which can buy 10 Bromptons. Where can reach Ferrari level leh ......

There is a Sturmey Archer 8 speed which has a 120mm lock nut dimension. Most probably for Bromptons but there is a model, IHW8F.XDSS.HA2 which is 120mm. With this model, you don't need to change the rear triangle.
www.sturmey-archer.com/.../SPECIFICATIONS%20-%20IGH%20S80%20(W).pdf

Nice huh ?

Cow hide with suede lining. Made a few of this for some B riders.

Hahaha. it's leather actually. Cow hide is leather which still have the original colour and hair as well. Like those many use for rugs.

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 28 2017, 10:24 PM

The spray can that I used are 2Ks which must be used within a week after purchase. It is filled into aerosol cans only after you choose your color by the shop here that specializes in auto paints. I did ask about polyurethane clear lacquer but the shop said it hardens too fast and not encouraged. But the clear lacquer they sell me are quite good, super high glossy finish but needs at least 3 coats. Also, although the aerosol can is the normal size, I only use about 60 percent (guess work) because I don't want to risk big droplets spraying out as the pressure is soft by this time. They sell the paints at 22 bucks per can and clear coat is 19 bucks. I usually use 1 can color paint and 2 cans clear coat.

How I wish I have a compressor or I would use epoxy paint and clear coat. It's even harder than powder coating after adequately dried. Just like fibre glass resin, the epoxy paints also use a catalyst for hardening (timing is crucial) and there's a time frame to spray and clean the nozzle.

The regular anchor brand is good but they scratch very easily as they are not really hard.

This post has been edited by etigge: Oct 1 2017, 07:11 PM

Ada kayuh naik itu orang asli village?

I followed the Ipoh group there but can't finish the ride. They started from Kg. Kenang, parked the cars at the school there. From there, go back down a little then turn left and ride along Sungai Kerbau. It's tarmac all the way. The gradient was too steep for me and I gave up just a few km from the last village.

In my opinion, the Fraser's Hill route is the best I have ridden, apart from Kuala Tembeling to Kuala Tahan (which is a bit far for regular rides). I have even ridden this route on Wednesdays which was even more fun because there are less traffic going up or coming down. The whole route (starts from KKB town) is 6 kilometers to the dam (don't be a hero here as the climbs are quite long, treat this as a long warm up) , another 6 km (flattish plus downhill) to Sungai Chilling. From here onwards it is a 20 km gradual climb all the way to Gap Station with a few, just a few steep climbs, usually at the hairpin turns, other than that it's all gradual which can be ridden even with single chain ring bikes.

After that, it's up to you to do that last steep 8 km up to the clock tower. This is torturous after the 32 kilometers ride from KKB. I usually don't do the last 8 as it's not fun. The momentous clock tower pictures, I already done twice so there's no point for me to do the last 8 km anymore as I don't enjoy it. After that , it will take you only 40 minutes to reach back KKB, the only climb is the dam. After the dam, you can do 50 kmh or 60 kmh all the way back to town. I have done 13 rides here as I enjoy the cooling ride in the mornings as the sun is shaded by the mountains in the mornings. I encourage you to do this ride. It's not as hard as most says. As long as you are good with your gearings, you will be fine.

There are many KKB folks (usually mtbs) who can ride up and back within 3 hours. My first time from KKB to the peak took me 5 hours, rested an hour up there and then that dreading climb from the clock tower to the rear exit. Careful at the descending road as it is a bit 'keras' Then after GAP it is all the way down, down, down till Sungai Chilling again. Later rides, it took me 4 hours 30 minutes with lunch at the peak.

I would suggest for first timers, park your car in Sungai Chilling. Skip the first 12 km. The route there is all uphill for 20 km till GAP. The good part is , it is also OK for newbies as IF you can't reach GAP , the way back to the car is all downhill, so not much of a problem. Once you can do this, then can try from KKB.

When I was in KL, it takes me one hour to actually drive to Hulu Langat or Putrajaya to ride. KKB is about 70 minutes if I start early, so KKB is not really considered far.

Most doctors recommend cycling for alternative workout when you have knee or spinal problems. Although the journey might be long, you don't need to ride till you reach in one go. You can actually fix a picnic bag onto your bikes, do a potluck party while riding with COMPATIBLE friends. If you are tired, there are many, many spots along the way for all of you to have a picnic before continuing the ride.

Again I stress, riding companions are important. Incompatible friends will spoil your ride, ultimately your interest too if it goes really bad. Choose your riding friends wisely.

PS/ Just make sure you budget the whole day for this ride and there will be no rush.

This post has been edited by etigge: Oct 23 2017, 10:33 AM

I also get into a fight with the local bike shop because of inner tube size. I was looking for 20 inch (406) tubes and the shop gave me 2 tubes with 20" printed on it. I guess that the shop will know but when I got back, it was actually even bigger than 22 inch. I can't even use it on my wife's 451s. So, I took it back, thinking maybe if I can change them but the shop keeper's wife (women are terrible shop assistants) keep insisting that it is for 20 inch wheels. I said at least change to an 26 inch tube if you don't have but she adamantly says it is for 20 inch. I threw the tubes back to her and walked out.

Later I found out that the tubes are actually for wheelchairs. Although the biggest bike shop here in Taiping, I never patronise them anymore. Thing is , manufacturers have their own kind of listing like 20 inch x 1 3/8 inch and so forth, this actually makes the whole sizing perplexing until you really memorise what you want. At times, the shop keeper don't even know. The Kenda you mentioned must be the Kenda Kwest, that's the cheapest from Kenda Schwalbe makes them is probably for Bromptons and some mini velos. That's why so few models, namely the Duranos and Marathon Racers.

Anyway, 406 inner tubes can be used on 451s, need to stretch a bit. This makes it thinner and lighter in fact. But getting punctured while riding, you need to be patient.

This post has been edited by etigge: Oct 28 2017, 12:22 PM

305, 349 is the circumference of the rim in millimeters and likewise 451mm is the circumference of the rim for the 22 inch rims. This is also the same figure you use to configure your cyclo computer.

PS/ doesn't make sense either , huh? After reading even more stars
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

This post has been edited by etigge: Oct 28 2017, 09:40 PM

A Brompton is not suitable for touring although there are exceptions where some do take it for touring. Parts are hyper expensive and this is the first objection when it comes to suitability for tourers. Secondly, you can't find the parts easily. Bromptons are more for city commuting. You know, the last mile connection.

Do you visit the 'pineapple juice' warung up there?

To me, that is............I am more concerned about cadence. Although I don't have a cadence sensor on my bike, I get used to a normal cadence. Doesn't matter if it is 75 rpm or 90 rpm (number that is considered a normal) or 120 rpm. Mine is approximately about 70 only. Just like the numerous railway flyovers here in Taiping, first time, I need to use the smaller chainrings and then as time goes by I don't need to change anymore and later stages , I have more than enough gears on my cassette even with the largest chainring. And all this while, my cadence is unchanged. If I ever want to pursue or catch up with faster riders.........I will have to either go higher gears which affects my 'pedal effort' or increase my cadence in which both will disrupt my cycling norms. I won't last long if I do that. So, I don't catch up with them, they still need to wait when regrouping and if they don't , no matter anyway.

If I run out of gears when doing uphill, I will add some extra 'pedal effort' but I don't force myself either because this is the main cause of 'butt pain' when the pelvic bones are pressed hard. Once this happens, goodbye to your ride for that day. It won't go off unless you take a few hours rest. Better to push your bike up.

Off course I am talking about regular recreational fun riders and not race riders or serious riders, ya!

Frankly, to do 100km in a day is actually quite a feat for folding bikes. It's no problem for road bikes as their bikes are designed for aerodynamics and they weigh averagely 8 kilos only. Also most of their wheelsets are not more than 2 kilos with tires. This makes the rolling very much smoother. Coming back to folding bikes, to assemble one less than 12 kilos will take bucks and bucks of dough. So, don't expect a 1K or 2K folding bike to be sub 12 kilos. Doing 100 km, entails very reliable components and this also means more bucks. Even some of our friends' foldies of forummers within here, I can guess their toys cost more than 5K when they assemble.

It is easier for us that tinker with our own bikes. If you can't, it will cost a lot more for labour charges to send to LBS for some upgrades or even more for mods.

In your case, Dahons and Terns which meets your requirement to be in the 5K or more range. Even if we start with a Dahon Route, which is now selling for 1.6K is shodded with the basic 7 speed. And even with this, after some basic mods on it like wheelset change, groupset change will come back to square one, more than 4K. So, your best bet is Java. They are the ones that captures your segment. They will get bulk OEM components and make their frames either tough or light (you choose one ) and fit in 16 speed or 18 speed. Never 20 speed though because 20 speed is still relevant in biking circles so the 8 speeds and 9 speeds are much cheaper to get their components. But it does serve the purpose nowadays as companies like Sunrace makes cassette with their higher end range. So, technically speaking, 16 or 18 speeds actually performs the same as 20 or 22 speeds if you get the right cassette. Then again, higher ends and more lasting or robust components are all 10 speeds and above nowadays.

This post has been edited by etigge: Nov 3 2017, 09:25 AM

We are not pros, so precise bike fitting is not necessary. But the basic bike fitting is important though. Anyway bike fittings are also limited for irregular physique like me, 'fatty fella'. Long waist, short reach arms with short reach legs, overweight etc.etc. Unless if I am going for a custom bike builder most bike frames in the market are standardized, meaning they cater to the regular mass market.

The basic measurement that you MUST adhere to is,

01) Seat height. Most newbies will ride lower as they are more confident if their legs touch the ground easy but this will tire you fast. Ideal is your knees are just slightly bend when your pedals are at the lowest point. Not straight though as this will be too high. If you see someone's butt is flopping up and down, up and down, to the right to the left ,that means the saddle is too high.

02) Saddle setback. Adjust your saddle front and back until you find your sweet spot. Usually if your knee cap is just slightly in front of the pedal spindle (center in other words) when your pedal is in mid stroke (3 o'clock position). Adjusting this right will avoid your jewels rubbing against the saddle.

03) Handlebar reach. But since folding bike handlebars are adjustable, it's easy. Also some ride foldies for the relaxing manner it can be ridden so I don't think this is important BUT it must not be too near as it will be tiring. It has to stretch out a bit.

I can't get 2 of this on my Giant folding bike and it was a torture riding it. The reach was too near, meaning top tube is too short and also the set back was out. My knees went way way over the pedal spindle even with my saddle pushed to the rear as far as it could. This means the seat tube is too upright. It's sold anyway, cheaply too.

So, check the 3 basic criteria when you are buying a foldie. Folding bikes are for relaxing rides lah, not pro racing. Off course for mtb or road bike, more measurements comes into consideration.

PS/ For condition no.2, you still need a suitable saddle. Wrong saddle still will pain your jewel. Like myself, even Brooks didn't help. Already sold off with the Giant . Maybe jewel too big

This post has been edited by etigge: Nov 17 2017, 10:33 AM