didnt ask... but the fb group says theyve been using damn long and theirs is ok...

my case....
- recoiled
- quite some months later (not sure exact but maybe even a year or more)...had to do top overhaul to the bike. coil n voltmeter reading was fine when i left bike at workshop.
- after top overhaul done, took the bike and on the way back home noticed volt meter going haywire.
- next day i sent it back to zadi cycle and asked him to check in case workshop put in shitty coil... he opened up and saw some burn marks and said the coil is his...he wasnt too happy to see it like that either.
- recoil again.... sold the bike not long after

so honestly cant say about duration as the top overhaul may have screwed up something causing it to burn prematurely.

would still recommend him for recoils though.
exactly... just keep ur ori parts no matter what they are... its been over 4 years and i still have my ori full system exhaust and rear fender, side mirrors  and other stuff from my bike

coz the inspection requires everything to be stock standard... if u get called in for exhaust inspection, ull still need ur original rear mudguard etc installed... even if u come with a helmet with tinted visor can fail the whole thing.

Number one rule when filling up your bikes tank - never stay mounted on your bike.  Dangerous.

I put the nozzle into the tank, auto. Full until it stops when full.
And I'll insert the nozzle on the non-stand side, right side.  So that the pump stops when it's full, when the bike is straighten up..... The fuel level will be about right.

Hehe make sure to learn how to open the fuel cap successfully before heading to the petrol station. Haha i wasnt succesful in turning the fuel cap at the petrol station. Nasib ada fuel to ride back learn how to open and go back refuel 😅

Anyways just be careful not to have your face too close to the fuel tank/nozzle. The tank on the bikes are small and the fuel can slosh around and sometimes jump out of the tank. If you too close can get into the eyes. Just take it slow and steady.

Let the bike on its side stand, and fill from the side stand usually left.

If not mistaken, Z250 has a hole and the nozzle will go all the way in, and then there is no actual stopper. Some bikes have a horizontal metal in there to stop the nozzle. Then, the handle can rest on the tank, or just hang there. You can let the petrol fill on its own, but after a certain time you should take over.

I, personally, let the fuel drip finish, before removing the nozzle, hate to drop any fuel on the tank.

For my bike, I oredi know roughly how much to fill per km. Let's say 200km need 10L~14L depending on the bike.
I'll monitor the filling progress all the time because I really don't want to spill any fuel on the tank. But, the recent trip was a bit off, because there are pump attendants that does the fueling so I can only tell them to keep adding until I stop them.

When carrying the nozzle towards the tank, always assume there is some leftover in the nozzle from previous fuel.
So, I point it up, and only tilt the nozzle downwards with the tip pointed into the tank. Sometimes, there's a good amount of free fuel in the nozzle.

What's the tank capacity of your bike, and the distance travelled. Get a good idea so you know how much to expect. Is a good practice if you want to go long distance travel with the bike.

What bike you riding?

On my bike , when I pump full, can see the petrol level on the top plate in the tank.

If you know that left over fuel in the nozzle will drip onto you bike just before putting in screen the nozzle is facing downwards, why not you only face the nozzle downwards when the nozzle tip is above the fuel tank opening? 

Lol

Alright, still learning I see. Good and I hope you make progress. Downshift to 1st gear is most difficult and jerky because the gear ratio gap is highest. Learn to blip the throttle a bit more.



For some tank, even if reach the plate liao, still can fill another 1 to 2 liters of fuel. If 17L tank, from low fuel warning to full is usually 13~14L.

that's worry too much

Try and blip the throttle before downshift.
That'll increase the engine rev to match the lower gear

Your z250 didn't come with A&S clutch? I used to do rev matching but since rarely go over 6k rpm so just blip moderately since A&S rarely kicks in.

I've read (and had tried it myself) that holding your throttle like holding an ice-cream cone works to rest your wrist muscle. Problem with this is that you can put your fingers on the brake lever as a precaution. Also try to practice holding your handle bar lightly as if you are holding an egg.

For long ride, I use the cheapo 'manual auto-cruise' thingy like this:

https://shopee.com.my/%F0%9F%94%A5READY-STO...cf-9858d9dff305

Holding it like an ice cream cone technique i think is more to when you are in attack position, not really on cruising or regular riding. I think it's just more of getting used to the throttle.

I find that the extra grip from the glove pad helps in reducing the need to grip tight. Ice cream grip works well during corners and you're not supposed to use front brakes in middle of corners anyways. Brake before not during corners, but you can slow down abit using rear brakes lightly besides easing the throttle.

How is the stability of the bike? When going straight and making turns? Do you need to steer it constantly? If the bike doesn't behave properly, get a second opinion and sort it out.

You're still quite new to the bike, take some time to familiarize before fully able to ride relaxed. Some things need to start consciously make correction, before it becomes a good habit. Watch where you're going, and do shoulder checks.

You should be able to relax the whole body while riding, and grip just feathering the throttle enough to manage the power. If the throttle grip is slippery, change it. Even when leaning the bike, the body can be relaxed and the bike will steer fine. However, being relaxed on the grips doesn't mean loose. Eg, if the front tyre hits a pothole, your hands must not disengage from the grip.

The ice-cream grip, more commonly known as screwdriver grip to me, is when you're leaned out of the bike axis. No need to pick up that technique yet. Develop more basic riding skills first.

Clamping on the tank is not needed all the time, and in some situations, being to rigid on the bike may make it difficult to give rider inputs. I only clamp the tank tight is when emergency braking or when my front end is doing the headshake. Only the outer thigh need to anchor to the tank when doing turns. Eg, turning left, right knee is anchored to the tank and left knee is relaxed. Prepare for any emergencies during the turn, such as need to brake or evade anything.

As you get better on the bike, you'll find yourself using more of the legs supporting your weight, and your arms loose almost all the time.

Takes a while to learn to be relaxed on the bike. If you are new to the bike and riding, you'd probably be holding it with a death grip.

For a sports bike, you need to learn to use your thighs against the tank to prop you up...failing which you will be putting too much weight on your arms and wrists. 2 bad things will result in that.... Fatigue and difficulty to steer the bike in emergency situations.

Higher speed is actually beneficial...you can use the air pressure to help support your upper body. It's usually the opposite that slow.speed tend to induce more fatigue because most will tense up during low speed maneuvers.

About the ice cream cone grip, it depends on the type of handle bar/clip on angle and widh that you have.

Most bikes needs adjustments to fit the rider. My dominar was uncomfortably ill fitting (I'm one size smaller than the mean rider probably) so I had to put on some handlebar risers and tilt the handle bar closer to me for reach. You may also need to change the angle of the throttle grip, or adjust the free play. If you have too much free play or if the angle is wrong, you will be putting too much stress on your wrist. Same goes to the levers.

As for your new gloves being stiff, leather gloves tend to be stiff when new until seasoned. Look for gloves that are precurved or use combination leather/fabric gloves first to build up strength pulling levers all day.

technosakai 80kph and need to fight wind? My friend ride Z250 full speed also didn't fight wind... glad you bring it up here and talk about it, spend more time riding and develop good riding habits should improve the comfort

with the styrofoam, is the grip now too big? wouldn't it become slippery when wet? I'd remove it though.

He probably just need to get used to the windblast. Most new riders isn't used to wind at higher speeds.

That grip is weird. Such a thick grip will also make it even more difficult to reach the levers. The z250 has span adjustable levers?

I think the fatigue from higher/moderate speed riding could also be due to not countersteering and trying to muscle the bike around.

ayeeee am new too! been joyriding around for almost a month or so

have some slightly different issues from you, my wrist aches after 10 mins or so even with the icecream cone holding technique, been caught out in the rain this past week with no rain coat, and you have to grip the throttle even harder otherwise it slips, exaggerating the issue.

wind wise.... oklah not too bad... i err have not gotten around to getting any proper riding attire yet, around 90 the wind is strong but not too bad, round 120-130 it starts to 'undress' you, at 160 good god its not fun. my helmet still pakai the schools given helmet. hit 100 with this your head wobbles around, supposed to tukar when i have time got to find a place with the tt corse and the bilmola to try.

From a kawi naked to another, my advice is to go for better aeordynamic FF or at least modular (i wore one even when i am still on a cub), and a windshield. Windshield matters more so go for it first when combating buffeting winds.

Tbh i never went 170, tops is 160. Lol. Corners on DASH only 90 with cars and 120 without. Dem damansara twisties are wide enough.

huhu got to watch these videos, am using my thumb and index finger (+ sometimes middle finger) to turn the throttle, the other 3 ready to hit the brakes, i think that might be part of it

whichever works for you, let's call them 1-thumb, 2-index, 3-middle, 4-ring, 5-pinkie:
- 2+3 brakes, 4+5 throttle
- 3+4 brakes, 2+5 throttle (won't work with race gloves)
- 2+3+4 brakes, 5 throttle (won't work with race gloves)
- all 4 brakes, all 4 throttle

in between, you have 1 finger braking, either with 2, or 3
some professionals use all 4 for throttle, and braking

damn sorry to hear that man.... hope everything is ok... bike can get fixed easily based on ur description.

for clutch n speedo, id suggest getting the usual stuff fixed first... make sure everything is back in order before assuming something else is wrong (it may just be placebo after the crash)... ur clutch especially is in a sealed case. so difficult for it to be damaged from a fall. after its fixed, give it another try.. if it feels different than usual, but still rides ok... then typically itll be fine.

also based on ur posts and questions here... i feel like ur over thinking. it may also be a cause of the crash today coz ur talking proper technique and all.. when it just may be as simple as u went too fast and didnt brake enough... could also be "target fixation". i get it.. i over think too when cornering but riding is highly dependant on feel... it needs to be natural just like when u drive a car or riding a bicycle... like second nature. my over thinking is to a point im seriously considering covering up my gear indicator coz i keep looking at what gear im in when riding and especially when cornering when i should be looking at the road.

got a friend who also over thinks like crazy... about what gear and what rpm and what speed ... how the wind affects him... how the vibrations of the bike affects him .. how the handlebar position is and used to ride at 70kmh... ends up selling n buying multiple bikes over the course of 2 years. found a bike that he enjoyed most and can ride up to 140kmh in short bursts but also ended up selling but thats a different story. now hes bikeless coz too bz with work.

just fix the bike... lean back while ur healing and dont overthink.. dont need to care about this technique.. that technique bla bla bla... ur not going racing to need techniques. ur just riding on the road.. screw all the techniques and just go with what ur comfortable with... if ur comfortable in that corner at max 40kmh.. take it at 40kmh or less... no special technique needed coz thats where ur comfortable. these techniques can come later when u wanna get into spirited riding category and even then its not a fixed technique. still depends on what ur comfortable with.

dont let this incident put u off riding. heal, and get back on the bike and continue practicing with what ur comfortable with. would also recommend a new helmet since this one has had an impact on it.