Can try to see if the owner has kept a service history or parts replacement. Unlike a car, a bike is a very personal item.... Very few owners will be ignorant of what was done on the bike. The owner should be able to get into all sorts of nitty gritty about the bike. If the owner doesnt know or reluctant to talk about the bike. ....be aware.

Cosmetic parts can be refurbished or replaced..so the only way to test is to ride it and make sure it doesn't handle funny. Bring a multimeter and check if the charging system is ok. Check the chain and wear on the sprockets. Do a cold start so how it runs or how easy it starts. Go for a test ride check how it revs, go up and down each gear , make sure power delivery is smooth. Check the brakes. Listen for weird sounds and noises. Check if the wheels line up. Open up the seat and check the subframe and rest of the frame for any damage or odd weld spots. Check if the wiring is intact and not hacked up like shit with wire taps all over the place. If aux wiring is done, check to see if the owner actually bothered to do it correctly with different colour wire and proper termination.

Check to see how the tyres wear. It tells a story on how the bike was ridden. If the bike only shows wear on the centre, it probably wasn't pushed hard into corners. Same goes to the peg feelers.
How old a bike are we talking about here?

I would generally ignore any light bumps and scrapes. Who among us don't jatuh bodoh once in a while......
For me I lucked out on my 2nd hand Dominar. Ended up more reliable than some new off the showroom floor bikes.

so wrong... so so wrong.

no effect at all, clutch pulled in.. gear no effect to engine.

whoever told u that needs to be spanked for being a notti boi.

Not sure who told you this is bad though.... But the only thing I could think of is if you had suddenly released your clutch when on first gear while still moving at speed (say, if traffic suddenly cleared, and you need to go) you might cause a rear tyre lock due to engine/wheelspeed difference...but nowadays with all those slipper clutches on bikes, it's tough (but still possible at higher speeds) to do that.

Usually I don't shift to first until standstill. And I keep it in first, clutched in, rear brake on all the time during stops.

If you hear your engine growling or jerking when you release the clutch cable, then yes you need to Rev match. I would say Rev matching is an essential skill a rider should learn. If you don't Rev match and downshift, the split second loss of traction on the rear wheel might lead you to lose control I'd your bike does not have a slipper clutch.

I think his jerkiness is at low speed, I'd say he should probably raise the throttle and feather in the clutch to avoid that.
Not sure what he rides, but if correct is a Z250. I think many bikes do that when at low speed, or different speed when the gear is too tall.

Your bike should have clutch assist. Can you feel the difference?
I think is Z250.

my adik is taking right now at metro, next week taking exam. all in so far about 2 months iirc

Rant ahead,

I have versys gen2 version since 2016, it's a good bike no doubt.

But due to my work getting more and more site orientated, I ride less and less as years go on. With such a high Riding height, it will be difficult for me to go through sand and gravel area, and with its curb weight at 200kg, I am not trying my luck. Shame really, Riding only during Friday and weekend is wasted in this bike.

Rant done.

Is there other current or upcoming bike that's lighter and almost the same spec as versys 650?

I'm planning to get a Versys, and lower the whole bike to enjoy

Kapcai brake caliper also got stolen.
+1
the queue was long, plus the carpark was not that big, so I decided to skip

My calipers were not stolen, just gear and brake levers, pump assy and side mirrors on my z650. Lol.

Don't lose the key, and it's not 100% proof.

There were even cases where the entire handle was stolen. The thief just simply unscrew the handlebar clamp and they get the entire brake system.



Cheaper alternatives to safety nut is to cover the hex hole with epoxy putty (gam batu). It will take roughly about 30 minutes to really remove the hardened putty to enable you to use your hex key into the hole. 

truth be told, ALL oso kinda shit. the bolt itself is not too bad but the outer cover thing as well as the adapter is made of super soft metal...

a well known mechanic told me the worse one set hes ever encountered is from the brand Proformance... coz it rusts and the thing is super soft.
instead he recommended getting security bolts similar to this: https://my.rs-online.com/web/p/security-screws/6212681?gb=b

i.e a non common bit pattern with the post in the middle of it. but if u can get an even lesser common bit pattern even better. allen is damn common, torx is somewhat common oso la but still ok. unfortunately these type of security/tamper proof screws not easy to find non allen and torx. so torx is the best bet la.