QUOTE(TheEvilMan @ Nov 23 2017, 02:12 PM)
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V39
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V39
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Nov 23 2017, 02:45 PM
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#61
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Nov 23 2017, 07:47 PM
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#62
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Nov 25 2017, 01:12 PM
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#63
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Guys, sorry if this was asked to death. Where do you guys usually buy your paint supplies ar?
I know a few places, just wondering if there's any different nice shops... |
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Mar 5 2018, 03:07 PM
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#64
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QUOTE(carpathia @ Mar 4 2018, 05:45 PM) Australia gunpla building community is improving ....wouldn't be surprised if the win the GBWC in near future! Joshua Darrah is from Australia right?EDIT: Side track a bit, need you guys sifu advice on this. I'm working on my second kit and it's going to be mostly in flat(matte) black. All of my paints are lacquer based. On my previous kit, it's mostly in matte gray/white so scratches were not very obvious but it's a different story for this black kit. Also it's a zaku so there's a lot of big armor pieces so any scratches will be super obvious and annoying. These scratches are mostly inflicted when I was putting the painted parts back on to the kit. There are a lot of tight parts close to each other so it's very easy for the pieces to rub each other. So how do you guys mitigate this? Do you guys top coat all pieces before putting them all back together? This post has been edited by GameFr3ak: Mar 5 2018, 03:14 PM |
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Mar 6 2018, 07:06 PM
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#65
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Mar 7 2018, 03:33 PM
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#66
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QUOTE(carpathia @ Mar 6 2018, 07:56 PM) Okay. I might try this next time then. Thanks. Though I think it's gonna stretch the prep time a lot longer now since I have to top coat all pieces QUOTE(~C.W.S~ @ Mar 7 2018, 11:41 AM) Split the head, arms, legs and body for top coat is the fastest and cost effective way. Unless you having OCD that every pieces need to top coat perfectly... Not very OCD (maybe some??) but I wanted to top coat because some pieces will get scratches easily when I'm done painting and snapping the pieces together...» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « |
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Mar 8 2018, 01:20 PM
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#67
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QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 7 2018, 04:17 PM) if your problem is paint getting scratched because of the parts rubbing together, sand down the inside of the parts that will be touching. Is it normal though? I'm not experienced enough to judge the quality of the finish. But the gunmetal parts are super durable, the blood red feels tough too but the matte black...it feels rough on touch and it feels like it's very weak. Very prone to scratches. the main areas in this case I suspect would be the thigh armor scratching against the knee joint, as well as forearm scratching the elbow joint? because the parts fit just nice before painting, after 2 or 3 layers of paint buildup the parts will be too tight. dont need to sand a lot. just slightly to avoid touching. Does top coating the parts mitigates this problem? QUOTE(~C.W.S~ @ Mar 7 2018, 04:19 PM) My experience with this is to airbrush the parts until it look wet but not overflow the paint/top coat to have better strength on resisting scratches. But do mind the part size will slightly bigger due to extra paint and top coat on surface especially for inner frame or joint you need to take note on it. Surprisingly the inner frame (gunmetal) is super durable. Only the matte black is very prone to scratches. Does top coating the parts before putting them back together mitigates the problem?QUOTE(limfreelance @ Mar 8 2018, 11:43 AM) just wanna ask where can i print customer decal. This sounds awesome. Do you buy the decal paper and simply print on them? I have a few awesome ideas on top of my head but seems near impossible to find the type of decal that I wanted...i mean i wanna print white logo in transparent decal. but my printer takde white ink, so looking for custom printing. size A4. Tq. |
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Mar 8 2018, 03:58 PM
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#68
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QUOTE(~C.W.S~ @ Mar 8 2018, 01:52 PM) If you use your thumb gently/litter force rub the surface did your hand get colored? If yes that mean the surface is painted with too dry during airbrush (high pressure) so you might want to try airbrush it till look misty wet like suggested earlier. For movable joint between parts like Shauno suggest can sand down to make some gap between avoid direct contact. It doesn't strip away that easily though. Just that if painted parts came in contact with another painted part, the black will have scratch mark. Edit: Matte surface suppose to feel bit rough compare to gloss. I'll see what I can do, thanks! QUOTE(limfreelance @ Mar 8 2018, 02:32 PM) i have transparent & white based decal. but for gradient color it failed to print out. Can you tell me where you buy the decal papers? I might wanna try printing my own decals also. But not gradient la.Bsides normal printer quality is not HD. I want to reprint F1 Mp4 13 decal. QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 8 2018, 03:05 PM) If anything, top coat makes things worse, because you're adding another layer and making the area thicker. anyway, try sanding down. there is no visible difference on how the kit looks. if it doesn't work. there is not issue Ah, too bad all my parts are already painted. |
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Mar 9 2018, 07:23 PM
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#69
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Mar 8 2018, 06:29 PM) Actually top coat does help prevent scratch. My kit after finish paint I forgot to top coat and after fiddling the kit for a while got some minor scratch on it. Also cut your finger nail. It is more likely scratch on surface QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 9 2018, 10:49 AM) Feel I need to clarify a bit. As poster above mention, top coat WILL provide protection. However, if your paints are getting scratched off because of rubbing between parts, it won't help much. Okay, based on the general consensus here... getting scratches on pieces close to each other is kinda normal... So it's not that the paint has problem. Okay. I'll take in to account of sanding parts down to increase distance between pieces.. Even if you've painted you can still go back and sand down the insides a bit. Not the end of the world.. |
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Mar 14 2018, 02:56 PM
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#70
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I can't really bring myself to like scale of HG and RG (except for big kits like kshatriya). BTW, are older kits like Zaku II Johnny Ridden weaker in terms of plastic quality? I've did 2 MG (red frame bandai and strike noir (DM)), the dragon momoko was the first kit I've ever painted with a lot of mistakes. But it didn't really break or anything when I was putting the kits back together.
The plastic of the zaku seems very weak (post paint). Did the paint made it a lot weaker? I've so far broken 3 parts already. |
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Mar 14 2018, 03:15 PM
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#71
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QUOTE(~C.W.S~ @ Mar 14 2018, 03:08 PM) Sometime old/aged plastic kits may not so strong but I have yet to encounter any yet, maybe you put too much force with your thumb Although I don't have much building/painting experience but this kit really did gave me a crap ton of problems. Broken parts here and there. And it don't even have a single water decal which is astoundingly disappointing. Luckily I have a lot of left overs from the gigantic sheet of water decal from dragon momoko (the irony). I did prime the parts though. Maybe I did cause the parts became tighter cause of the extra layers of paint. I'll try to spray less on the inner part to prevent it from becoming too thick. QUOTE(Vorador @ Mar 10 2018, 01:06 AM) OMG... I'm so unwilling to buy and build PG red frame all over again.... omg........ but it still look 'fat'... lol» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « |
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Mar 14 2018, 03:48 PM
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#72
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Mar 14 2018, 03:39 PM) It is not about size. It is the value of the kit. I understand that it could be cheaper, better value but I have this preference on MG scale. I don't know why though. I think PG is too big and HG/RG being too small. Big isnt always better. See the old NG kits. The palm size means you can display it everywhere including on office table. More flexible to play and good for photography shot. Smaller kit good for macro shot. Belum cuba belum tahu. Just focus on newest HG or go into RG line. Its improved so much like MG already. It's just a preference thing. But I might try switching when it became stale... currently venturing in to 1/100 Reborn... gonna see how it's like.. BTW, does older kit has weaker plastic in your experience.. |
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Mar 14 2018, 04:17 PM
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#73
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Mar 14 2018, 04:13 PM) I dont know why people keep think big is better. Maybe they already see the goodness of MG and no longer look back at other grade such as HG. Used to think that way too so the 1st gunpla kit I bought is the MG and broke it Better is not my point though. My point is my preference is MG. It's a personal thing, I don't mean other grades are bad. lol BTW, I only have 3 kits, so my taste my change later In my case I dont exclusively collect in certain grade/scale because I equally like all of them. The interest keep grow over time (for example I dont really like grunt units when I was beginner but now I collect them more like Gundam units) It is not because it is old plastic. ABS plastic is known weaker to lacquer based paint. So Bandai often recommend acrylic based paint for painting instead. Avoid paint inner frame with lacquer based paint and you will fine. Most of my problems are not on ABS though. It's the armor piece. Maybe it's my problem, cause I used too much force. |
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Mar 14 2018, 10:05 PM
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#74
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QUOTE(~C.W.S~ @ Mar 14 2018, 04:54 PM) Take your time to play, I had same problem like you on first few kits painted build since no much experience things doesn't go really well. Once you get used to it you can make a nice and beautiful kits too. Maybe zaku kits has tighter parts cause dragon momoko kit actually gave me less problems. Eh..... What to do la.. Deal with it lol |
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Mar 15 2018, 07:07 PM
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#75
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Mar 15 2018, 08:15 PM
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#76
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Mar 16 2018, 03:34 PM
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#77
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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 16 2018, 01:26 AM) personal preference. Yeah. This is another one of my preference as well. I can't really bring myself to stuff my cabinet full of kits. It's just not my taste and I find it really messy. and depending your display style. if all cramped in a detolf it will look untidy & messy and really see nothing unless you go in closer. if put 1 or 2 on table, then better. Displaying a few kits that I made sure I like and put effort in is what I'm trying to build up at the moment. Though I only have 3-4 kits now but I can't imagine crowding the entire cabinet full of gunplas.... This gives me nightmare but understandably some would like this. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « This post has been edited by GameFr3ak: Mar 16 2018, 03:35 PM |
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Mar 17 2018, 11:54 AM
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#78
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Mar 17 2018, 12:08 AM) That was analogy anyway. I dont have like 100 units HG to display in single shelf. My actual display is only 10 unit HG mixed with display scale cars and tanks. Some Nendoroid figure and toys inside too. But I would do that if I buy 2-3 Ikea detolf. Standard Katoki style standing pose only. No Action Base inside so no cramped style display but multiple glass detolf with enough room for HGs to stand. Yeah, I understand. It's just everyone has different preferences As I said in previous post, HG is portable size. You can put it anywhere including office table. Not only in glass detolf It is a sign of hobby passion. There are similar collecting hobbies out there and they are not much different than gunpla. They collect and display too. Dedicating a showcase display is better than just err showcase boxes of unbuilt kits... You might find this messy but this kind of display that attract people more to look into it. Heck gunpla shop would be boring if got nothing to showcase similar to this. |
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Mar 18 2018, 06:01 PM
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#79
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I think everyone has difference preference when it comes to decorating their own collection.
No one is right or wrong. BTW, that's some sweet candy red kits right there. How many bottles of paint did you used? chriswoo |
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Mar 20 2018, 02:13 PM
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#80
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QUOTE(mdshaman @ Mar 20 2018, 12:47 PM) Here's what it would look like with a relatively straightforward paint and decals. It's like a modder's wet dream. Template is already there, just go wild on endless addons lol. But aesthetically, it looks very..........."busy" for me.[attachmentid=9675056] [attachmentid=9675042] Pics taken from Tai's Factory @ zgmfxg.web.fc2.com |
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