just have a quick chat with the shop keepers next time you walk into gamers arena or other shops. an easy question would be "Boss Price Up Again ah". they will tell you yen going up can't do anything. sure maybe they are lying but why would they?

unless the shop is busy most of them are more than happy for quick chat.

if you read cement, i think i know who wrote that. he is a famous gundam collector who never builds his gundams, but can provide alot of professional advise on how to build gundams.

if you follow his guidelines it will ensure chaos & battle damage effects on your gundam. some say it will look like someone used a hammer to hit it.

what you want is something that doesn't corrode the plastic but hardens and leaves a thin layer to increase the grip.

Super Glue is hard to control and when dry it becomes really hard. So if you only have access to Super Glue, do it moderately.

I would recommend something like Pledge Future Floor Care. it is acrylic and leaves thin layer, does corrode and can be easily removed with alcohol wipes. and if you need a gloss finish esp small parts & transparent canopies, they are great compared to spraying.

rm60+- at Ace Hardware.

also wait for it to fully dry before you put the joints back. if it's ball joint and already connected, you have to keep moving the part until it dries. in this case super glue pose a high risk of permanently fixing the joints.

another alternate low cost method would be put a small piece of tissue paper between the joints...

This post has been edited by advocado: Aug 23 2017, 10:11 PM

you only apply cement when you want to attach 2 bare plastic parts permanently.

please don't give wrong info as people have damaged their model kits this way because someone on the internet told them it works.

well another purpose for using cement is if you want to damage the part for some reason, like melting damage effects.

did you paint the joints? if you did, maybe it added thickness to the joints so they are more sturdy.

not cheap. even cheap, only abit, sometimes, more exp after conversion.

want real cheap, have to go Japan. buy 2nd hand unbuilt kits.

model kit not cheap. but toys are cheaper. can even find some legendary toys not many people actually get a chance to see in actual. God status vintage toys. God price too.

people give you correction you want to be sarcastic.

hai...

OK whatever works for you.

I retract my words regarding using cement to reinforce joints then.

I apologize for my mistake.

Sorry.

u use cement it will melt the surface of the joint to form a thicker layer, by doing so you reduce the integrity of the joint. sure you can put more cement to melt more plastic to add thickness but the joints will become even more brittle.

on ball joint it's even harder to control the flow.

adding putty is the troublesome way to fix it you end up have to sand it down.

adding super glue is a quick fix but you risk over pouring and gluing the joint permanent.

paint will make the joint look ugly.

future floor care is the best as it dries quick, leaves a transparent coat, easy to loosen even if it sticks, and can be easily removed with alcohol wipes, only downside is it leaves a gloss finish, which can be top coated with flat. however you probably wouldn't want to use this method.

you can recarve or deepen the details lost if you know how they look like. with a hobby knife.

putty, recarve & sand, if you know how.

ask nearlee to help you guys lo. belanja him makan when he comes kl.

hi, i'm doing 1st time on metallic color.

here's my finding:

1.Need to sand nub marks & uneven surface down as much as you can from 200-1500 sandpaper.

2.Wash the parts with soap water and dry, ensure minimal dust. Wash hand with soap before handling parts.

3.Stick them on satay sticks with blutac and poke the sticks onto a box.

4.Prime the parts using high grit primers (eg Surfacer 1000). Make sure the priming is smooth & even. Leave it dry. Any uneven surface needs to be sanded down with 600-1500 grit sandpapers.

5.Spray the now primed parts with Gloss Black and ensure it's smooth & even. Gloss Black is essential when spraying metallic paints on. I don't know the science behind it but i tried spraying Chrome Silver on grey prime the paint just stays very thin and not shinny. Leave it dry.

6.Spray the metallic coated parts with semi-clear color of your choice. make sure it's even & smooth. Wait for dry.

7.Apply a Gloss Coat on the parts to seal & protect the paint.

always start with a test part to see if you do anything wrong.

before you start handling or applying decals i suggest leave the parts cure for 1 week.

and don't forget to constantly dust off the dusts each time you start working on it.

and make sure the pegs aren't painted, if you did, you need to scrap the paint off or else the parts might not fit well.

if you need to seal off any seam lines, you should do it before you start painting because metallic involves multiple stages of painting you not easy to touch up.

and of course, handle with care when assembling.

you can do it, if you be careful and always work on a test part 1st.

how cheap is cheap?

to some Sparmax 0.3D is cheap. >rm200.

did you prime & black gloss it before the metallic? metallic doesn't look as shiny uness the surface is Gloss, black is a plus.

Now Prime+Black Gloss only rm40+ per can. Tamiya, not cheap lo.

Gelgoog, Dom, Acguy, Zgok & their marine relatives.

or those grunts in Ironblood.

or the Golden robot in Turn A.

obviously you haven't seen him lying on his tatami watching TV.

when you are using permanent adhesive you suppose to keep moving the joints for 15 minutes.

i use the Elephant picture glue sold in Mr.DIY, rm0.70 though, they upped the price. last time rm0.50. all glue will leave white residue if you touch or rub it before it dries out.

yes most glue will white if you rub/sand it.

if it's separate joint you don't need to move it. but if it's assembled joints like ball you need to keep moving it.

how bout try Future Floor Care or any clear paint?