hi..I'm newbie to gunpla..anyone can recommend shops in kl sell gunpla with reasonable price? thanks a lot..

My friend got a can of acrylic clear spray, reacts oddly to difference surfaces. When sprayed on bare plastic, it's a nice matte coat. If sprayed on painted parts, it's semi gloss.

I've got a few cans of Samurai Spray. When I do short bursts, I felt like it's spraying watery mist instead of just mist. Hope it makes sense. I felt like it lacks pressure. I might try your warm bucket method though as I have another full can sitting there.



Could you elaborate more on "flat gel" tried googling it gave me a lot of random results.

My friend got a can of acrylic clear spray, reacts oddly to difference surfaces. When sprayed on bare plastic, it's a nice matte coat. If sprayed on painted parts, it's semi gloss.

I've got a few cans of Samurai Spray. When I do short bursts, I felt like it's spraying watery mist instead of just mist. Hope it makes sense. I felt like it lacks pressure. I might try your warm bucket method though as I have another full can sitting there.



Could you elaborate more on "flat gel" tried googling it gave me a lot of random results.

Firstly, you've always been a great help. Thank you very much.

The samurai costs around RM10-12 per can (each 400 ML).

I'm unsure, I've shook the can like mad already. It could be some conditions that were not met. I could be spraying too far/near or it's just not warm enough or like you said, too much solvent. My friend used the same spray can but he got a nice matte finish coating. I've got blotchy patchy finish like below.
[attachmentid=9123576]

If the warm bucket method doesn't work, I might try to decan the samurai and use AB. If AB doesn't work as well, then I'll just fking buy bottled paints liow

I saw this at gamers arena, how much was it again?

My local shop sell this at rm240+..
Gotto hando!

Is all the God hand been onesided nipper? Will it really help to reduce nub mark and sanding? I almost get it when I saw it in gamers arena last week but the price is rather high

but does it help to reduce nub mark and white stress mark?

the one sided blade design actually works that is why China has been copying the design as well. Unfortunately, the price of Godhand before is acceptable but right now, even without mark up, it is really expensive.

I have bought mine 4 years ago and the price has increase at least 50% today. The design works in a way that it cuts very clean and there is little to no stress marks. The single blade design motion is similar to you cutting a plastic with hobby knife. Stress marks happen when the plastic is pulled when two blade is crushing the plastic (more so if the blade has been used for some time).

bandai LED set really cost a bomb...look at PG exia..& yamato 2022.
yamato 2199 without led baru below rm 160..but the latest 2022 mau harga 450. fuuuuuu
i can get a color led (from mouse ) which only cost rm 29.99 with USB power up.

Some references for those whom is interested in diy:

1) inner condenser all cut and replaced with clear parts duplication and added with UV leds
2) outer condenser cover sprayed with clear red luminescent paints
3) head eyes replaced with clear duplication parts and added yellow led
4) shoulder and other belts replaced with laser stickers and clear cut out phone covers
5) details scribing and pla plates mod
6) 3rd parties 1/60 decals

it is possible to achieve it cheaper way, but sure is heck of a work to do...  

and now there is another interesting tech called fiber optics, sure will make it more interesting!

I used SMD (Surface mount led) and those clear parts i duplicate my self using epoxy. i connect external power and you might notice theres a wire there..     .

usually smd doesnt require much voltage to work with, but for those small sizes smd sure is hard to solder and handle. so if you r looking at rgb smd for that cool color change effect that would be another level of led mod... (require programmable board such as arduinno)

i bought those clear epoxy for those usually used in key chain souvenirs that you saw in beaches (clear cast keychains with tiny crabs inside),
longer curing time clearer results.

resin and epoxy duplication takes a lot of try and errors without proper tools... i might go crazy...    

now trying to duplicate tokugawa mk2 helmet also giving me hell of a time now...

For large parts i used silicone mold, but for small parts like this 1/60 exia i just used Oyumaru Reusable Molding Stick.

making mold is as difficult as resin duplication, i have ended with a final silicone mold after 6 trials still the casting result requires lots of touch ups.

summore silicone mold making are all one off unlike reusable molding stick.

reusable molding stick also strictly for simple parts only... too complex the molding stick cant reach to the details.

below rm50 can cover a few cast and mold process, enough for you to do 3-4 duplication if everything runs smooth.

as for time the curing for clear epoxy takes a day, resin faster within minutes (hence chance to fail at success cast also fast as you rushing)

that also depends mix ratio correctness (if you hands on you will see why you need a weight balance for it, after a few casting to container already need to change. hell of a messy work to do)

resin casting are way more hazardous and strong smell and messy (my spare room already become workshop) thats why its a so demeaning work to do...

also silicone molding process is messy and sticky and hard to clean (normal detergent and thinner wont work in this case)

Am talking about Bandai Decals, i guess it's a little thicker, after dry for days they do stick nicely, but when i dry them with cotton and leave it for few minutes while working on the decals and i proceed to do other parts, perhaps by accident i would touch the decals, and they either drop or stick to my thumb then went missing, yet i see some people do decals in one go and have no such problem , now have to find identical decals to replace the missing one

Thanks for the tips, I enjoy water decals more than anything, but sometime hesitation to get things done cause me trouble, usually I will do one side, let it dry for hours and do the other side, guess I should just stick to the principle to avoid the mentioned problem, now doing it at slower pace like what I did with psycho Zaku, took two weeks to apply all decals

from my experiences, water decals doesnt go well if your kit is unpainted, especially straight oob and assembled the kit without washing it add the risk of decals doesnt stick. oob runners tends to have slight residue of oil (although i find bandai kits were the least) and smooth plastic surface also another reason water decals doesnt stick.

now all my kits were painted before decals process but i got that issue when i commission my clients kit with portion that skip paintings.

my rule of thumb is:

1)dip water decals with time just enough the decals able to slide out, bandai (when i try gouf custom decals) tends to take longer to separate.

2)when slide to the target area, cotton bud press slightly on the middle of decal (to ensure decals hold in place), then roll press from side to apply even pressure in order to remove excess water underneath.

3)Finally slightly apply mark softer just enough solution to cover the decal and wait a few seconds, repeat the cotton bud press and roll process.

this way has worked like a charm for all my kits even without coating, even after leaving it months or years, decals still hold. (reason i dont coat it is chrome painted kits tends to loose its shine after clear coat...)

[attachmentid=9202776]

I usually cut one or two at max then dip in w ater then gently test it with cotton to see if it move, once it move I will apply it to the kits, could the problem been I gloss coat one layer before doing decals?