Squealing is said to be an issue between the backing of the pad and the caliper piston, which is why shims are very commonly placed on the back of pads. Anti-squeal paste is made for that purpose too and it's a pretty simple job to pop pads out to apply it, but perhaps a tad too difficult for some workshops.

If they're in any way related to Australian *technicians* they'll always diagnose the most expensive part, as in here the ECU, then after replacing it and finding that it doesn't cure the fault stir themselves into real action to quickly find the real fault so they can still make a bomb from the expensive part, sometimes as I have found myself in the case of a friend who paid out a fortune for a carburetor rebuild 30 years ago where the fault was actually a broken wire under the insulation to the fuel cutoff solenoid, just unplugging and re-plugging was enough to jiggle it back into contact for the mechanic to think falsely they'd fixed it.
Replacing the ECU is usually just an easy out for a workshop, but bear in mind most service folk are like a rabbit under the glare of headlights, they have no idea about electronics.

Something for Underzoom, a little piccie of my anti-seize, nickel in front and the larger copper behind. the little tube of nickel has lasted me for 16 years now and I expect it'll see me out with the few jobs I do.

In my case trouble is usually caused by inadvertently pushing a button on the remote.
I cured the real annoyance of the alarm within minutes after I drove Daisy home the first time by unplugging the noise maker, now I just get lights blinking.
30 seconds of that time was spent quietly before the alarm triggered for whatever reason, I was powerful grateful then that the salesman had shown me about one thing and that thing was how to turn off the alarm, he must have known how annoying it is.

Yes I was thinking of doing that but the other week when I pulled the drum off my lazy gene kicked in when I contemplated pulling the shoes off to gain access, so I just cleaned up the dust and inspected things before slapping it back together. The tac-tac noise is only a minor irritation and I had suspicions it may have been the shoe kicking sideways onto the backing plate, perhaps confirmed here.

I like it, I think I might copy your idea.

Daisy now has a yellow shelf, thanks for the idea.
White car, yellow trim, hence Daisy.

It was either this or something very similar
https://www.banggood.com/3m-DIY-Car-Interio...?rmmds=category

I haven't cast an inquisitive eye on Daisy's rear brakes but my experience with cars made over the last 50 years is they all have self adjusting shoes and the parking brake setup should be pretty well a one off thing after fitting a replacement cable or whatever.
The crunch is that some brakes set their adjustment by braking whilst reversing and others adjust merely by pulling the parking brake up and down a few times, an issue with that method is that in the USA almost universally their folk regard a parking/emergency brake as something covered in spiders and scorpions, and would never allow their hands to touch it, that isn't usually an issue in over-regulated Australia where not operating a parking brake whilst parked is punishable by a massive fine or jail, the point being that parking brake adjustment can be lost by not doing some things the designers considered normal, some people never have reason to reverse either.
As to the SAT button, I repeat what I've said before, its sole purpose is to remind us why we bought a CVT, to avoid the jerk of gearchanges, so we buy our new car, test the SAT button to feel its operation, then put things back to normal CVT operation and live happily ever after.

Right or wrong that's what I would do, plus it seems the general opinion of posters here to skip the first filter change, and only do it every 2nd fluid change.
My head has difficulty thinking of reasons to bother doing it at such short intervals except for increasing dealership profit, but I could be very wrong and would be quite pleased to find good reasons.

The mirrors on the FLX have LED indicators vs on the guard of the BLM.

Just make sure you completely flush any trace of a different colour coolant before refilling, mixing red and green together can become a nightmare, due to their different composition, I believe solid masses form when mixed.

BTW used coolant makes an excellent weedkiller as well as a good method to eliminate cats by buggering their kidneys if they drink any of it, of course these are things that in Australia we're not permitted to do, most things here have a law forbidding it.

This post has been edited by wankel: Jun 19 2017, 01:03 PM

Mine isn't playing up yet but I'd love to know about the method too for when it eventually and inevitably happens.

I think it's turn ignition on and push the dot button.

I changed Daisy's when I put LED indicator lamps in, that was actually quite a complicated job but for the indicator can the awkward part was the pins were reverse of what is normal and I had to solder wires to it to cross a couple of pins over. I can post a photo of my messy work later if you wish.
Getting LED indicators to be serviceable was a far more difficult chore, due to what I consider weird wiring (at least to the front) and not having any decent amber lamps available, only ones that are too weak.

Yes that was my thinking, hopefully the serpentine belt tensioner rather than the timing belt one.
Any info regards crafting up a tool for the serpentine belt tensioner on an FLX would be most welcomed by me too, I believe they're different from the sensible one the BLM uses.
I was also thinking the early rattle in the video may have been IAFM+ but I'm not familiar with that either.

If you've recently changed or topped up the oil then it could be some spillage burning off from the exhaust manifold.
If it doesn't smell it could be water vapour and that would be serious due to overheating.

Sounds like it's leaking onto the exhaust, likely a leaking valve cover gasket as I believe our Campro engines' are prone to it, fairly simple fix, new gasket and a few minutes playing with a socket.

5mm thread by 10 mm long, it has a countersunk head which will likely make it difficult to find, if so then try something about 12 mm long and put a fair sized washer under the head. The actual thread of the original screw thread is only about 7 mm long but being countersunk it reaches nicely into knob. There's two of them.

I'm more inclined to check if the battery terminals have a good connection first, clean and tighten them.
A lazy way to check on an alternator is to turn the lights on and if they brighten a bit when you rev above idle then things are probably OK.