My experience is they can be a proper mongrel to pull out, so I wouldn't be concerned about someone using a bit of muscle on them, it can be needed.

Good point, I'm showing my age a bit, that simple method would be better served now by having the headlights on with the engine stopped and seeing if they become brighter upon starting, running then stopping the engine and check if they get dimmer. Personally I find meters so cheap now that there's no real excuse not to own one.

Just replace the lamp, all should be good after that.
if you're like me and have a hankering for LED lamps then seek a lamp that's OK for CANBUS, they have a resistor built in to provide a tiny flow of current.

Good to know, do they help economy and if it's a CVT what sort of rpm does it turn when doing 100 km/h?

I replaced my originals with Kinforest KF550 175/65-14. excellent tyre, good grip and wear vastly less thus far than the Goodyear that it came shod with. Oddly for the first time in my life I noticed a difference in comfort with the new ones noticeably superior.

For my FLX it came with a CR-2032 but I've been using 2 x CR-2016 for the last couple of years as I found the higher voltage was more reliable yet still under the chips maximum rating. I did have to put a thin insulating strip around the edge of the cells where they slip into the holder to avoid short circuit issues.
For those curious about lithium cell part numbers the 20 in these is for 20 mm diameter and the 16 is for 1.6 mm with 32 being 3.2 mm, they use a very logical formula so a CR2032 is twice the depth of a CR2016.

My Daisy passed its warranty period on the 5th September so the time for making claims has gone unused.
Meanwhile plenty of owners who have bought fancier more expensive steeds have also been inconvenienced by making claims, something which we can be very positive about Proton.

I have to wonder if they've fitted the belt a tooth out on one of the cogs?

I don't know the official figure but 105 Nm is about right for wheel nuts on a 12 mm stud, anyway that's what I've been torquing mine to without any issues.

Thanks for that info but I'm a long way from another set required. I replaced the stock Goodyear Ducaro 185/60-14 with Kinforest KF550 at 22,000 km, the Ducaro gripped very well wet or dry but I hated driving on them for some odd and mysterious reason, they certainly wore much quicker than I was happy about. The Kinforest are excellent and grip as well as the Ducaro wet or dry but seem slightly quieter and also in my opinion a vastly more comfortable tyre to drive with but that could be because I chose to change to a 175/65-14 profile, their wear rate is vastly improved over the Ducaro's too, so now I'm a happy driver but I sure like the sound of your lovely quiet CC6 and must file them into my memory bank. The downside is anything with a name brand in Australia carries a huge price burden, anything, not just tyres.

Made in China, http://www.kinforesttyre.com/product_Kinfo..._language_en-US
I couldn't find any poor reviews when I was looking into buying, so their price was a winner for me, bear in mind unlike most Aussies I'm not beholden to brand labels so I think I've been a winner here, it's a whole different story for you lucky Malaysians who gain by not being tucked away in a hidden corner of the world.

I'm 60 y/o, I don't have to concern myself too much about my parents despite them still being amongst the living. My name here reflects upon my birthday as I was born the day the first Wankel test engine fired up, pretty silly choice really so I suppose I should change it.

I'll take a photo of mine tomorrow but I'd be fairly sure there's a technical difference between BLM and FLX, since I have an FLX I know that the system relies on current flow to ground trrough the filament in old fashioned Edison era lamps to avoid triggering a warning on the dash. In my case I've avoided that by soldering a resistor (1k2?) across the contacts, that allows enough current flow to avoid a warning, from memory a 1k5 resistor was marginal and sometimes didn't flow enough current to avoid the warning. Anyway I'll take a photo tomorrow of my job, you will need a real bright LED to make it worthwhile, and that usually means a bit of shopping around, I'd say if you can find a canbus lamp you should be right but they weren't as commonly available back when I did mine.

The sun is up so I've taken a couple of shots of my 3rd brake lamp.
My memory wasn't up to speed last night, originally I had used a 1k2 resistor but that value was marginal so I replaced it with a 1k one that's under the green heatshrink in this piccie.

Looking at it now I may shop for something brighter but it is bright enough to be serviceable.

Negative, you need a fluid that's rated EZL799 or EZL799A, if you use a normal ATF then imminent destruction of your CVT will result.
Reason being is that CVTs rely on metal to metal friction, whereas other transmissions try to avoid metal to metal friction, using anything other than approved EZL799 fluid will result in ruinous slippage betwixt belt and pulley followed by a trail of tears by the owner.

I'd be taking my business elsewhere, the attitude along with coincidence of your failure smacks of incompetence and cover up. Imagine if you will that for whatever reason they unplugged the fan, say to remove the radiator to make flushing the coolant a simpler job, then forgot to reconnect the fan, oh dear let's make up a story.
Examples abound of similar things. Since cars here began having ECUs some time ago, because they're expensive and beyond the grasp of mechanics they automatically diagnose ECU failure despite them in reality being quite reliable, after changing them and noting it made no difference mechanics would then scramble to find the real cause, which of course would be kept as their little secret while still charging for an unneeded ECU. I have very little trust I'm afraid.

I'm not going to change the filter when I eventually change Daisy's fluid, I'd be amazed if there was any need to before 100k km, or even 150k km. In the fairly near future I'll get serious about finding some EZL799 fluid to use, something which to date is nearly as hard to find in Australia as rocking horse poo, which of course is hard to reason due to the number of CVT transmissions now in service, many of which take the same spec oil as ours.
But then again 20W-50 oil is still very commonly available here despite no engines in the world being designed to use that treacle since the days of the Model T Ford.

Which engine mount? they seem to be a failure item with all cars these days, which may be as a result of them becoming very sophisticated some years ago. I wonder if anyone here has tried bunging them up with urethane and could advise if it's worth the effort.
A photo of the broken bonnet support panel could help to clear the puzzled thoughts in my mind.
Daisy has as yet only covered <24k km with the only Proton issues being two of the circular dash vents have failed and the door switches need modifying from their not quite good enough setup.

Timing belt is critical because if it fails a lot of expensive engine damage occurs, so don't defer that at all, the serpentine fead belt isn't quite as critical, although its failure will quickly lead to overheating, however since it also runs the alternator a check light should show up instantly upon failure.

For this I'd be suspicious about an engine mount rubber shearing, not a simple thing to detect but you're flexible and have good eyesight you may be able to check them.

RH is 55 cm long and LH is 42, both use the common u type fitting. I changed mine early on to the simpler new type they market here as premium with a price tag to match, despite being simpler and I suspect cheaper to make, but the reason for using them is the sweet lack of noise they make under operation. I also opted for a slightly shorter RH driver's side one since it has no need to be so long and it may also reduce load a fraction on the motor.