Start with something simple like unplugging the pump/sender unit in the fuel tank under the rear seat, then just plug it back in. Quirky things like this can often be just a bad connection, but where is the hard part of finding it.
Standard workshop practice with something unusual and intermittent is to replace the most expensive part involved, then replace the next most expensive part and keep using that method until success is achieved.
Jiggle any connectors you can find that may be involved.

OK, you gave me a good excuse to give my seat a clean anyway.

The rear seat base is removed by pulling on the straps on each side under the front of the seat base, one shown here after I removed the seat.

The connector plug is shown here, to remove it you should push in the metal clip. It seems crud accumulates here so a spray from a can of whatever you have may also clean it a bit. It's also most unlikely to cure any trouble but the sender unit is in there and you'll have some checking to do and starting at somewhere easy is my preferred method. Also don't bother doing things the hard way with these metal clips as I've seen on Youtube with a chap removing the clips on the coils, just press them in, easy peasy.

I don't think it's a problem, mine's the same and I think it's a feature. It still revs fine when you're driving but is limited when in park, that great for when you want to raise the revs while working on something, it means just being able to jam the pedal down with a stick rather than have an assistant bugger you about.

Has anybody ever come up with a simple overview of radio units that are compatible with the steering wheel controls on the FLX?

Using a thinner oil should help if you're not already using one, 10W-30 would be a good choice and is a commonly available weight that is often found at a gentle price.
I've modified Daisy's oxygen sensor to trick the ECU into thinking it's running slightly richer, with it responding by leaning things ever so slightly but I can't really say that it makes a difference expect to give Daisy a flat spot when accelerating upon its first start for the day.

It sounds like you're lucky, I'd expect "performance" pads to be worse for street use, requiring extra force and being a real bugger when they're cold.
The cheap granddad type pads I put on Daisy have more bite than the stock pads and are a joy to use, but they'd fade to buggery if I ever used them on a racetrack, which roads are not.
Brakes are another example of not necessarily being better when more expensive.

I pump mine to 300, I feel all the standard views on pressures are way too conservative after I saw some advice by an engineer some time ago, so I pump mine up good and hard now, instead of just a bit hard.

Things have been quiet here of late so for something out of the blue I've found the clip remover tool that can be found online is good for pulling the coils from the spark plugs on our campro engine.

Yes that bit of rubber is needed for that thingy to work.
Having them get stuck is situation normal it seems, I tried some silicone lube on them some time ago but abandoned that when I suspect it actually makes things worse by leaving a cruddy deposit on the metal sleeves. I use the checking spark plugs excuse as a way of checking that the coils remain removable.

While it's show and tell time this was my plugs that I checked.

I would have taken the air filter assembly off in order to gain easier access to the head area, not that it's needed but because it's an easy thing to do and gains a sense of spaciousness.
Personally I would just stick with the stock paper air filter element too.

Yes Daisy's plugs are fine although the amount of oil on the threads is a bit of a puzzle, I do like to use anti-seize on them and I don't think a real lot of it but that looks like oil on them for mine, perhaps the anti-seize morphs into oil after time? at least they spun out nice and easily and I didn't bother adding any more this time.
Maybe I was sucked in by the claims of improved economy from using fancy uridium plugs but they work fine so using them can't be a bad thing.

They're NGKs with a 6 heatrange, I'd have to pull one again to get the whole ID but that's all required. I too had thought it may have been a valve cover gasket leak, something that's inevitable on the Campro engine but peering into what I could about the plug area I didn't note any flood of oil so for now I'll put it down to using anti-seize at least a couple of times prior.
I've just priced a windscreen replacement locally for Daisy and it sure makes me envious of you Malaysian folk, they want AU$360 for the job, with only one fitter within a 90 minute drive they'll get the job too. I've been waiting over three years to get another break in its screen to spur me into doing it but I'd better just get it done now.

My thinking is that Daisy's windscreen was faulty when fitted or was poorly mounted as it had only been on the road a few weeks when a crack appeared whilst driving.

A lousy photo I'm afraid, it's a difficult subject so I'm not going to waste more effort shooting it, the crack started at the edge under the wiper and moved up, I did try to drill into the edge to hopefully stop it spreading but in a situation normal for me it merely delayed the spread for a short while. It continues under the driver's sight line quite a way.
Now after seeing the photo though I should take the wipers off and paint them.
Your experience with the rear demister sounds typical to me and a reason I do all the jobs I can do on things I own myself.
I don't think I need do the valve cover gasket yet, although using it as an excuse to inspect the cams is a nice excuse, but it can wait.

I was too lazy to pull it out this time but as others have said it's T10, just be aware that being LED you'll need to check operation before finishing, if it doesn't light up then try it the other way around.

This one has been in Daisy for three years, and yes that's a LED headlight lamp as well, I prefer a lovely white and bright light that saves power rather than slavishly follow our laws that insist on using an archaic Edison era filament glow, that uses more power so thus more fuel.

In my 4.5 years of driving Daisy I've never inserted a CD I consider them obsolete, MP3 all the way for me.

I'm waiting for mine to fail, front wheel drive cars typically have issues with mounts sooner than we'd like, but I'm curious if any poster here has experience with filling them with urethane to cheap their way out of doing a proper job.

Well thought out

There had to be a downside at least Daisy's are OK for now but time marches on.