Yeah, I'm no longer a fan of small coils either. My 4mm 7 wraps spaced currently beats out dual 3mm 6 wraps clapton, with less heat too.

Dont need to guess with the experience I get from quad and six coils I built.

This post has been edited by TristanX: Aug 3 2016, 12:15 AM

Let's recap shall we?

You claimed the TFV8 was the most "powerful" RTA. Your conjecture was duly disproven.

You said you've never seen the Tornado @ 300W. You were shown the video of it being used @ 300W

You claimed better airflow for the TFV8 vis-a-vis the Tornado, and failed to take into account the Tornado's top airflow as well as the slower speed of air emitted from a larger deck air outlet as opposed to the faster airflow from a smaller opening.

You then had doubts on the efficacy of the tornado's top airflow on the basis of a diagram.

And now you claim that you are able to extrapolate the heat generated on a one atomizer based on your experience building multiple coils on another entirely different atomizer?

All this for an atomizer you have yet to receive, let alone test?

Much wow! Enough of this. Carry on conjecturing.

Ehem.... as much as I like to see both of my most trusted poisoners carry on in heated discussion, especially when it comes to Vape technicalities, I find that it's often more prudent when the parties involved ended up agreeing to disagree.

Vaping, as much as we like to think of it as something scientific with a deep body of knowledge behind it... isn't really. And much of it is still pretty much black magic and mambo jumbo... and it's just made worse by the fact that it's a very subjective thing that highly depends on personal preferences.

Like personally I always thought that the DNA hype was... you know... just hype (or justification from a bunch of folks who got duped into buying an overly expensive device with an overly rated chipboard). But if there's one thing I've learnt from my experiences with audiophilia, it's pretty much something that varies *a lot* from person to person... and there *was* still room for truth amidst the hype.

Hence, I got myself a DNA mod and was pleasantly surprised (I still am).

Back to the topic at hand, is many small coils better then two large ones? Is more airflow better then less? Well, while we can whip out tools to measure airflow... the end result is still *very* much debatable and subject to personal preferences.

While Atty A might be said to be capable of whatever watts (which, is really mostly just exaggerated manufacturers claims to me - though, as always, I stand to be corrected), it might not mean that it would run the said watts comfortably or optimally. To take a very distantly related example, the 213.

Similarly, for Atty B, it's not exactly fair to assume airflow from looking at pictures/diagrams alone. I mean I took one look at the GMv3's new spitback chimney and thought "shit airflow, shit flavour". Yet apparently, from reviews slowly hitting Reddit, it actually does quite well and apparently has comparative (or maybe even better) airflow and flavour vs the v2.

As such, unless someone decides to get both the atomisers involved and set themselves up (and, to make it fair, rope in some innocent bystanding vapers) to a A-B blind test, and prepare a bunch of tools for objective measurements; it's pretty much a battle of split hairs.

So, to both my long time sifus, please play nice. You're gonna scare the nubises.

Just felt like throwing my 20 cents to the fray. No offence meant.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 04:15 AM

Overreacting much? The video you showed does not count because he's struggling to vape it.

Daniel does not struggle but, thats an occ.

I don't trust products without proper proof it can do 300W without scorching the user.

This post has been edited by TristanX: Aug 3 2016, 01:33 AM

I'm doing 316l SS as of now. It's dry burnable (as long as you don't overdo it). It's vapable in power mode. It tastes relatively clean. It's readily available (in straight and clapton forms). It's easy to work (and play) with. Finally, most SS friendly TC chips are set for use with 316l as well.

Cons? It needs specific SS capable chips/mods for TC, and even if the mods are said to be SS capable, it needs to be sensitive enough for 316l's low ohm/temp characteristics... and often you need to run your coils spaced for "proper" TC.

That said, there IS a way to trick *some* Ni/Ti TC mods into TC-ing with SS. Here's something I pulled off Reddit:


*50j is about 50w for other mods.

Ni only TC mods need to be run at 40-60f to be able to TC with SS, so it's gonna be quite hard (especially with the DNA40, which only does 100f minimum) but it might be doable.

Keep in mind, the "trick" isn't gonna give you "proper" or "accurate" SS TC, but at least it'll work.

For more SS info check out the spoilers below:


As for Nickel, personally I'm not a fan. It's hard to build with, you can't dry burn it without risking meltdowns and when you vape it in power mode by accident, you might get some weird toxic crap in your vape (generally still debated, but has some basis in truth).

Similarly, Titanium (TiO fumes = bad). But at least Ti is "dry pulsable" (you can dry burn it in very short bursts) and it's easy to work with so for me that makes it better than Ni already.

So yeah: SS > Ti > Ni for me. Either try out the SS/Ti trick, or just use Ti (but remember to ONLY dry pulse it).



This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 08:28 AM

parking lot

wow.. what a great info... thanks a lot
appreciate it

Naked 100 Lava Flow review up: http://goo.gl/W91lTh

Direct link to my vape reviews so far are in my siggy for anybody interested.

Next up: the VT133.

No offence taken at all Eiraku I'll only go in-depth with devices I have actually laid hands on (be it bought or borrowed)

Moving along, my Crius Plus arrived this morning! As promised, waqi935, here's my initial thoughts on it. Click on pix to enlarge.



Very clean and sharp machining. One small niggle...burrs in the postholes, easily toothbrushed out during washing.
Edit: By "sharp machining", I did not mean that there were sharp metal edges. I meant that it was neat, smart and tidy machining (as in "He's a sharp dresser.")... bad ambiguous choice of word there.


Slapped a simple SS316l 3mm ID spaced dual on it. Darned cam wouldn't focus on coils...sorry!


Wicked, juiced and atop my Triade. No leaks. Looks pretty OK.


Vape impressions after 1.5 tankfuls of my ADV at usual wattage:

Balanced flavor, despite a slight bias toward the middle notes and less of the upper-middle notes. I'll try raising the coil later on by 1mm more to see if I can get the same "sparkles" of layered flavors (which come from the upper-middle and high notes of my ADV) that the Tornado produces so easily. I have a feeling that with more tweaking, it is possible to achieve. Overall, it's a very decent vape.

With the bottom AFC wide open and top AFC shut, it runs warm @ 42.5W, it is a very slightly restrictive toke to me. The heat level is about the same as the Tornado's at 65-70W. With both top and bottom AFC wide open, it's a slightly warmish-vape. The top airflow works on the same principle (and also resembles) that of the Tornado. Minimal decrease of flavor with top AFC wide open, no noticeable decrease with it 2/3 open. Note: this may vary with the level of flavoring used in the juice.

Misc thoughts:

The 510 driptip does not sit flush with the topcap, but that can be easily remedied with a bit of sandpaper work. My other driptips sit flush on it. All in all, I am satisfied. The atty is very easy to build, wicking is super-easy, the o-ring resistances of the AFCs and fill port are way better than the Tornado's (which are too tight), and it is a cleanly built device. One just have to be aware of the o-rings of the glass tank which tend to stick to the glass. They're small and an o-ring could "follow" the glass tank when washing, and drop off. The included hex screwdriver is way nicer to use than an L-shaped Allen key.

The VCMT clone should be arriving on Thurs/Fri. If I find it worthwhile, I'll do a short posting on it. So many RTAs out there...they're starting to all look the same

This post has been edited by andyng38: Aug 3 2016, 12:06 PM

The same amount of wires with one bigger coil is better than 2 coils. The amount of wick on bigger coil increases vapor production. Bigger coil also has lower chance of burning the cotton due to slower ramp up. As long as the build area doesn't restrict air flow, you are good.

This post has been edited by TristanX: Aug 3 2016, 12:32 PM

Totally agree on that part as I'm an audiophile as well. Is not about the price or brand. Is about personal preferences.

My experience is on DNA and SX. Fired the same tank (russian 91%), same homebrew juice at the same ohm & wattage (1.74 ohm, 11w). The taste somehow is better, more intense and warmer on SX350j instead of DNA200.

Hmm, interesting findings. I probably need to get a Yihi mod too one of these days just for the sake of SCIENCE!

That said, I pretty much vape TC almost exclusively nowadays, and it's been the TC performance of the DNA board that has been leaving such an impression on me so far. A smooth, flavourful vape at around the user-set temp - all the time, every time.

Compared to what the JT board in both my Pico and VTC is doing which is really just "temp limiting" rather than consistent "temp regulation".

Also, eScribe... which is both a blessing (endless tweaking woohoo) and a curse (why the eff can't I just adjust preheat ON DEVICE damnit... and calibrations, calibrations everywhere), but let's save that for another long post.

As for the difference in straight power delivery, that's maybe (maybe) because the Yihi chip is possibly more honest about its wattage delivery... as in 30J being an actual straight 30W/s rather than.... say 25.6W/s.

Or maybe it's the reverse lol: 30J is actually like 35W/s.

Or *maybe* it's just the differences in how they modulate their power.

Though in the end it really doesn't matter because personal preference are, after all, personal preference lol.



This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 07:37 PM

Just bought a limitless colour changing rda from erico vape lounge. So far i notice they are the only seller in malaysia that sells original limitless mod/atty.

The thing is i bought the green colour. ( dark green ) and when it heats up it changes to a bright green. Mine did but its not changing back to the original colour when its not heated up. Asked the shop they say cant do anything. Do u think its worth emailing limitless cust care ? They have an cust care email tho.

This post has been edited by ImSIEBEL: Aug 3 2016, 06:49 PM


Attached image(s)

Is it still bright green now? Looked at a few vids online an while it looks pretty sensitive turning bright green with heat, seems that it takes a whole lotta time to turn back dark.

If it's still bright green after a few hours, try contacting their CS directly and see if they have any idea of what's going on.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Aug 3 2016, 07:29 PM

Yup left it overnight in a dark place still bright green. Just email their cs hopefully will get a reply

wow..they just simply says that they cant do anything? thats a crappy aftersales service...at least have a decency and offer laa to check with their supplier or whatnot...

btw, how much did u pay for the RDA bro?

This post has been edited by Tenggiling_Besi: Aug 3 2016, 08:05 PM

Rm300.

I saw legadget selling for rm260 but no stocks

Have you tried to dip it into cold water?

Didn't play with TC yet. Taking a step at a time. A friend shared that Ni is hazardous la after exceeding certain temp, SS need to wash with water first after the first burn before vaping la. So a bit takut la. Two things I have not starting to learn yet. TC and battery/output calculation (especially for mech mod).

Ni is hazardous exceeding a certain temp yes (which is kinda low, thus the no dry burn rule). Ti is too, but the threshold is higher (hence dry-pulsable). SS ALSO gives out toxic HexaChrome, but only at welding temps/melting point (which we never really reach, unless you short a coil hotleg until it melts.

Like everything else, use those three by the specs and they're pretty much harmless. Though Ni's extreme softness and the fact that it's not dry-burnable makes it a hassle (at least for me) to use for TC.

As for the wash SS with water part, that's just to clear out carbon particles that gets released when the SS oxidises. Sure, it's bad but it's a millionth to a magnitude smaller than all the carbon we get by just breathing while walking in the jammed up KL streets.

People usually wash it off anyway cause it makes the coils clean again... like we do with normal kanthal coils... so the point is pretty moot.

But yeah, one step at a time. Myself I only ventured into TC this year myself (after years of vaping) so taking your time is really not a problem. TC does help extend cotton and battery life though, which is really helpful.