Not the best (I'm an Xtar fanboi lol) but it's good enough, yes. At least it's miles better than cheapo chargers... or charging your batts using USB in multibatt mods WITHOUT balanced charging (ehem RX200/TwoThirds/Cuboid etc).

That said, the Triade, with its DNA200 chip, DOES have balanced charging (1A/3) so USB is fine too... unless you're worried about the micro USB port wonking out.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 7 2016, 08:34 PM

I got see VC4 before somewhere... can't remember where though. Try checking Shopee. That's a plenty good charger right there if you can find one. Also the VP4 (plug, non-usb).

IINM there's an Outdoors/Flashlight shop in SS15 that specialises in Xtar chargers... somewhere in Subang Square opposite Watsons/7-11. Even if they don't have stock they might be able to order for you.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 7 2016, 08:53 PM

Haven't owned but have tested both.

The RAD is more a beginner's/no-fuss tank that, in theory, would replace an OCC subtank in use. Performance is so-so (the Supertank OCC is better IMHO), but rebuilding is stupidly easy (wrap cotton around notchcoil, prime, pop notchcoil in) and considerably cheaper than normal OCCs: You just buy more notchcoils and wrap with your own cotton also fine, as long as it's sheet cotton aka Muji or Puff or KGD. Plus, it only runs a single notch - as all notchcoils tanks do - an is completely incapable of running any other type of coil.

The GriffMini is, well, an RTA. You build on it as with normal RTAs: make coils, mount coils, dry-burn, insert cotton, prime. The chimney is shorter than a normal Griff so it's probably got better flavour (for sure, with the right build, it's gonna have better flavour/vapour vs the RAD at least), but otherwise it's just another RTA on which you can put whatever coils you want in.

So yeah, ease of use vs flexibility. Your call.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 7 2016, 09:54 PM

Personally, I'm partial to USB based chargers (which are slow lol, but I run most of my stuff off a multi-port due to a severe lack of free plugs), but yeah the Opus BT IS quite popular on Reddit.

That said, while all the extra features are really nice (the analysing stuff), I really wouldn't consider it a superior "charger", due to this:


Courtesy of the ONLY guy I trust when it comes to chargers: Lygate-info.dk. He still considers it decent, though, and there's no other "decent" analysing 4-bay charger available for anything NEAR the Opus's price if you NEED the analysing functions.

For me, I still have no immediate need for new, 4-bay chargers, so it might be a while before i get one myself... if not just for the analysing bits.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 8 2016, 08:44 AM

Careful to NEVER EVER put your batteries terbalik in that thang. No reverse polarity protection (at least not in the early batches) means insta-death. Not sure if yours is from a later batch, but insta-death sure isn't worth trying to confirm.

BTW in the US IPV started recall edi to fix that. Not sure about here.

da drummer Yeah they all generally work the same, except for the Coil-Pilot (or whatever the motorised one is called).

I have the ori V1 Coilmaster and the UD one, and besides styling differences (the UD is self contained and HUGE), they're pretty much similar.

NakedVape Unless you're trying to prolong the life of your microUSB port, internal charging should be fine if you're annoyed with the Nano's cap. DNA boards have decent charging after all.

Just an option if you're hassled by the Nano's flipflop cap.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 9 2016, 12:11 PM

Woah... not sure what happened with your Bro 's SDNA. Supposedly the DNA200 board has enough failsaves to avoid that from happening... buuuuut electronics are after all man made and not exempt from failures. Unfortunately.

Glad you hear you're enjoying the Nano. Just be careful of stripping the battery cap threads. The alloy used is kinda crappy so it strips quite easily... or so says the Internetz. Not sure if HCig fixed that in later batches, so just be careful.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 9 2016, 01:48 PM

Why the Mega? IMHO just get the normal Pico + extra batts better lol. Why? For one thing, it's far easier (and cheaper) to get spare "good" 18650s than 26650s. Of course, with the adapter you can use both... but using 18650s would make the Mega needlessly large.

Also that bottom USB is death. Trust me, even if you don't want to use it for charging, it's still death.

As for tanks, the Serp is good, though personally I think it shines better with a Clap or Twisted (which you can twist yourself so it doesn't really matter). Also it's more a lunghit tank, even with AFC adjustments. Just so you know.

For cotton, kanthal... well stick with the cheapest you can find lol. Muji and unbranded kanthal is "good enough" really. Everything else is just going up the "diminishing returns" hill... much like audiophile stuff, you'll never really get any improvements equal to the increase of cost spent once you start splurging on cotton and wire lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 9 2016, 03:08 PM

Errr DR? Which limitless did you get anyway? The XL? Or the new one that turns into an RDA?

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 9 2016, 03:16 PM

This is actually very hard to answer lol, as it depends as much on your vaping style as it does the tank design.

Let's step back and look at WHY tanks leak for a moment. It all has to do with disrupting the pressure equilibrium, if it's a pressure fed tank like the Kayfun/GobMini/Zeph/Bellus/Hurricane/Serp Mini etc. Mess with the negative pressure inside the tank... poof instant leak.

And refilling (especially top fill) often messes with the pressure, unless you have juice flow control (or fill it upside down like you had to with the Taifun/Old Style Kayfun/GMv1)... or the perfect amount of wicking.

Also, if you wick the tank for MTL and draw air in DTL amounts (aka differences in style)... poof negative pressure effed up = leak... or juice in your mouth (which is still leaking, but the other way around).

At least that's how it normally is on pressure fed tanks.

For Genny-likes ('Cado, Limitless etc) the enemy is gravity lol. Keep it upright, it will love you long time. Turn it too far to the side/upside down (especially with insufficient wicking) = have fun cleaning the top part and whatever drips out of it.

So yeah. Pros and cons. These are just two examples of "typical" tank designs too, there are lots more with their own plusses and minuses when it comes to leaking (and everything else).

But generally, pressure fed tanks are better in terms of being "leak proof" as long as you understand the need for constant negative pressure inside the tanks... and the importance of NOT messing up the pressure equilibrium.

... or something like that lol. I might be wrong so people do correct me.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 10 2016, 01:45 AM

No additional charges? That's really, really fast wor.

No idea. Do we have an official Pioneer distributor here to even start such a thing? If not you have to contact them directly ler... though knowing how they operate, good luck with that.

Also, FT if you got it from them.

TBH though, the recall is probably due to the Reverse Polarity thing... or rather the lack of it. As long as you don't insert your batts the wrong way around, you'll be fine.

If you do... well... hopefully you have somewhere safe you can throw that pipe bomb to lol (jk). But really, you'll probably just end up with a dead mod nobody wants to warranty.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 12 2016, 07:01 PM

Again it depends A LOT on various factors so it's not really easy to say. Atty design, wicking, cotton type, wattage, your juice viscosity, how you vape... and the near infinate combination of these factors summore.

Personally, I stick with the 'Cado for this very reason: It doesn't give me "leaks" that I can't explain. As long as I keep the wicking solid and the whole thing above horizontal, it will never "leak", thanks to the juice reservoir being BELOW the coils.

Plus the whole "Genny" setup means fuss-free maintenance... I just need to pop the cap off to brush the coils with q-tips to "degunk" it and wallah, it's usable for yet another week (I've been with this coil + cotton for nearly a month now).

That said, in terms of leaks (or rather the lack if it) the upcoming Goblin Mini v3 looks promising as it has both a covered AFC AND juice control.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 13 2016, 04:36 PM

Yes. It means you can't lie the mod + tank down flat lol. Just straight up. That's also why I hate bottom USB connectors with a vengeance. I carry my ADV in a belt pouch that keeps it vertical so it works well for my needs.

It still burps a bit if I dump it into a pocket though.

HOWEVER, apparently if you wick the 'Cado tightly enough, you actually can lie it down and even turn it upside down... if not just for a few hours. The big problem is getting it THAT tight without it dry hitting... it's a bit of a fuss so I don't bother lol.

But yeah, the GMv3. Think GM + Diablo + Griffin + Merlin. I'm waiting for it to hit myself so that I can get one for my beater VTC.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 13 2016, 05:23 PM

Err... you might not want to do that regularly. Li-ion batts are quite sensitive to heat and there have been a few cases already (just check reddit) of batts going into thermal runaway (aka going boom) in the heat of a parked car.

Sure if it hasn't happened yet it's fine... but it DOES happen, and considering how hot our midday gets...

It's all just names lol. Vape tech advances so quickly that so many things need to be given new names every year.. heck every month even.

Actually Sub-Ohm Tanks was just a name given to differentiate sub-ohm capable OCC tanks, which all started pretty much when the SubTank came out. Sure, some of them COULD use an RBA module, but they wasn't designed to be "exclusively" rebuildable like some other tanks... and they needed a name to saperate them from the older non-sub-ohmable OCC tanks.

Also, those "rebuild only" tanks also got a new name soon enough: RTAs.

Then came the weird ass "Genesis reborn" tanks (the Nectar, 'Cado, Haze and the ilk), which weren't designed for steel mesh wick use like a "proper" Genny so folks had to come up with a new name for those as well. Considering these new Gennys were pretty much an RDA with a tank below it, people started calling them RDTAs.

Fuuuuuuh. Back when I started we even had "Cartomizers", "Clearomizers"... and OCCs were all just called "Atomizers". Nowadays try asking for Atomizers, Cartos or Clearos in vape shops (especially new ones) and watch people give you a blank look.

Trust me, by the end of this decade, we would probably end up with tanks with acronyms that would stretch even longer lol. Maybe REDCHEAT (Rebuildable Enhanced Dripping Ceramic Heating Element Atomiser Tank) or something lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 13 2016, 11:43 PM

Anyway as we're on the subject of the progress of Vaping, here's a bonus game: Check out the spoiler and see if any of these old codgers are familiar to you, courtesy of Eiraku's Museum of Vaping Antiquities lol:


Compare that with what we have now:


We've progressed so far... so fast right?

And if the FDA is allowed to have their way, Americans are only gonna be allowed to sell those "antiques" post 2018. Hell... probably even just the first two ONLY lol (as per the 2007 "Grandfather" date).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 13 2016, 11:57 PM

Yeah seems the later Kepuns all get looser airflow... as do the later Taifuns.

IINM v3 Kepuns (which includes the Pawns Kepun) all still good for single coil MTLing... and chip chip clones are everywhere. I still prefer the original V1 Taifun for that though (much less fiddly to coil, use and refill) but it's getting harder and harder to get outside of FT.

Also the earlier Hurricanes.

dp82 Kick just means you need to go lower nic. Buying local juices with under-strength, mislabeled nic (marked as 6, is actually 3 or less) just to get less kick is like using RON95 for your Lambo Hurrican to "make" it go slower... while risking permanent engine damage due to insufficient octane lol.

It's a false economy as it's encouraging these buggers to continue manufacturing liquid that is NOT up to... well... standards.

Buuut... that's just what I think lol. Different strokes for different folks.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 14 2016, 03:40 PM

Like amco said, LG HG2s or Sammy 30Qs at 3000MAh... though with the current batch floating around, the 30Qs are superior in performance. It's harder to get though vs the Browns which is practically everywhere (and heavily cloned).

There's also the Sony VTC6, but that one is even HARDER to get.

As for the 4000MAh 40A whatever brands floating around, just don't. They are mislabelled and are often nothing near the supposed performance levels. Just stick with the great trinity of LG, Sammy and Sony (and maybe Sanyo with their UR-NSX batts) really.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 15 2016, 10:36 AM

Yes... Nama manja lol.

VP4 small LCD. VC4 bigger LCD (and basic analysis functions). Also VP4 is run from a power plug (and can therefore charge faster), VC4 is USB powered.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Sep 20 2016, 10:59 AM