QUOTE(Momo33 @ Oct 9 2020, 08:43 PM)
Just a question.
your DB box is already correct with the EPS switch fuse .
what make you want to change to mcb ? ( it is not wrong to change.
ok there is no hurry for you to change this , just wait till one day you have electrician in your house , you and ask him change...
haha, because recently read some articles about switch fuse and MCB, noticed that it is common practice to use 2P MCB as main switch. your DB box is already correct with the EPS switch fuse .
what make you want to change to mcb ? ( it is not wrong to change.
ok there is no hurry for you to change this , just wait till one day you have electrician in your house , you and ask him change...
QUOTE(stormer.lyn @ Oct 9 2020, 09:13 PM)
If your existing is the top photo, then the live goes in and out from it. The neutral from TNB will go straight to the RCCB.
If you change to the 2 pole version in the bottom picture, you should not leave the second slot empty (The slot on the right in your picture, without your red lines)
Take the neutral from the RCCB and poke into the second slot. And then from this dual pole take 2 wires and go to the RCCB.
Argh, sorry, logically the RCCB should be on the left, so the busbar can feed the MCBs
Edit to add this image from the internet
thanks for your diagram. Appreciate it. If you change to the 2 pole version in the bottom picture, you should not leave the second slot empty (The slot on the right in your picture, without your red lines)
Take the neutral from the RCCB and poke into the second slot. And then from this dual pole take 2 wires and go to the RCCB.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Argh, sorry, logically the RCCB should be on the left, so the busbar can feed the MCBs
Edit to add this image from the internet
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
After watching some youtube videos I gained better illustration on this diagram.
QUOTE(ozak @ Oct 9 2020, 11:01 PM)
It's true. Thanks for your warm advice.QUOTE(ceo684 @ Oct 10 2020, 03:51 AM)
It is preferable to ensure that the RCD/MCB/isolator is from same brand. This way it will fit well when you install the busbar.
Also liability issue, if you fit proton engine into a honda MPV and using ECU from toyota, if the car blows up, I don't think insurance/mfg product liability will cover.
Also, for own house, preferably get the whole system from ABB/Hager/Schneider. These are reputable brands with easily 10-18 countries' certification.
The CE logo, to be honest is just suka suka self declaration [CE marking does not provide any specific information to the consumer. It is not a quality assurance declaration, it does not show evidence of third-party testing, and it should not be confused with any independent certification mark of the type issued by international or European notified test bodies.]
Seconded. When talking about main switch replacement you're dealing with live TNB feed of 230V at thousands of amps.
Just 0.05A is all that's needed to kill a person.
If working BEHIND the main switch isolator, that one is much safer since L and N are cut off from TNB safely. But to touch those live wires (since there is no isolator installed currently) it is a very risky thing, call an electrician.
Yes Sir, noted that. Also liability issue, if you fit proton engine into a honda MPV and using ECU from toyota, if the car blows up, I don't think insurance/mfg product liability will cover.
Also, for own house, preferably get the whole system from ABB/Hager/Schneider. These are reputable brands with easily 10-18 countries' certification.
The CE logo, to be honest is just suka suka self declaration [CE marking does not provide any specific information to the consumer. It is not a quality assurance declaration, it does not show evidence of third-party testing, and it should not be confused with any independent certification mark of the type issued by international or European notified test bodies.]
Seconded. When talking about main switch replacement you're dealing with live TNB feed of 230V at thousands of amps.
Just 0.05A is all that's needed to kill a person.
If working BEHIND the main switch isolator, that one is much safer since L and N are cut off from TNB safely. But to touch those live wires (since there is no isolator installed currently) it is a very risky thing, call an electrician.
This post has been edited by chemistry: Oct 16 2020, 08:37 PM
Oct 16 2020, 08:36 PM



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