Ok, i am sure nobody asked this question before here. To cut the story short, i am about to hire a technician to change the entire MCB unit (RCD, MCB, Main Switch, MCB box). My house has the single phase electric power, but i bought the 2 pole main switch (please refer to attached photo).
Can i use it for my single phase power?
Another question is that anybody heard of 1 pole RCD or RCCB? or it's only 2 pole / 4 pole available for residential use?


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You're changing to a new single phase DB (distribution board)..

A DB has a 2p (2 pole or double pole) isolator => 2p rcd(residual current device), rccb or rcbo => Neutral bar + SP(single pole) mcb(miniature circuit breaker) => outgoing wiring to lights & socket load..

Your picture shows a 2 pole isolator for the neutral and phase cable i.e single phase ..

A common rating is 40A DP to protect 16mm2 pvc cable, use the 63A only if you are going to use 25mm2 (or larger) size cable..

Please refer to Suruhanjaya Tenaga's Guidelines for Electrical Wiring in Residential Building 2008 (Guidelines-Electricity) if you require more details..

Yes..

No..

Yes.. The reason is due to its nature of operation.. The current flowing through the phase cables MUST return to the neutral cable..

Any leakage current will be detected by the residual current device and trip the supply..

Thus it is 2/3/4 pole.. a source(single or 3phase) and the return current path (Neutral)..

This post has been edited by Richard: May 30 2016, 10:43 AM

The 2 pole is for neutral + live. Not for normal house DB. It is for like near to the aircon isolator box. Or near to the motor isolator box. Mostly factory use.

You can separate out by take out the joint black trigger. But some of them joint up internal or a bar across.

RCD and RCCB require 2 pole to function. Live and neutral. 4 pole is for 3phase. Both available for residential use. Depend you using single phase or 3 phase.

Thanks for the input, it helps a lot.
I looked at my current DB board, i can see a Switch Fuse (first from the right in the picture).
Do i need a swich fuse, or just the ABB isolator i bought earlier will do the job?


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Thanks for the input. I understand the second part explanation now.
But i am curious if i should use the ABB 2 pole as in the first photo, or i should return to the shop for 1 Pole?
The electrical shop is quite far from my place.

Return back.

It is no use for you to put 2pole in the DB. Cause the neutral will be join in common.

If you insist use, the guy will just join the live to 1pole in the 2pole MCB. Left another pole empty. It still function normal. But eat up your DB space.

ok bro. How about switch fuse? do i need one like my old db board?

You can use a switch fuse or the 2pole mcb as your mains switch..

The normal practice is using 2 pole mcb as a mains switch to isolate the electrical supply from your incomer just in case you get a short circuit between live/neutral cables..

Hi sifu,

Can I replace a 63A 1P switch fuse with a 63A 2P MCB ?
how does the installation go about? Since existing switch fuse only has 1 incoming & 1 outgoing...

this is to replace the MAIns switch ya.

better to get a 63A 1P MCB .

If only 63A 2P MCB is available, is it usable?

yes.. it can be. used .

just Input the L & N from tenaga to the bottom pins .
on top will be the OUT . L to RCD . N to the busbar .





This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 9 2020, 05:56 PM

thanks for your detailed explanation.
Forgive my sillyness. Sorry if my question sound stupid.
I don't understand one thing.
Existing main switch (some ppl call it switch fuse) only got 2 holes (1 In and 1 Out). If no choice but to use 2P MCB, won't it have extra empty hole then? Coz it has 4 holes ( 2 In , 2 Out ).

This post has been edited by chemistry: Oct 9 2020, 06:16 PM

mains switch can use switch fuse or use a isolator or use a MCB . 63A for single phase.

some switch fuse have 2 holes at bottom and 2 holes at top . Live and neutral .

just check which you want .


the reason is at the MAIN switch . the neutral ''you can say no use. '' so we protect the LIVE line only .
that s why some manufacturer make a 1 P unit. so sell cheaper , you save some money .


https://shopee.com.my/EPS-63A-1P-N-Main-Swi...0848.2817950833

https://shopee.com.my/EPS-63A-1P-N-Main-Swi...0848.2817950833



This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 9 2020, 06:31 PM

Existing is using something like this.


Then my uncle bought this from outside.


Is it correct to connect the IN and OUT as shown above? Leave the other two holes empty right?

yes... correct .

the left side for LIVE in /out . as your marker .
The out LIVE will connect to your IN Live of RCD device.


since you dont want to pass the neutral in this 63A MCB ..
you need to check that the Neutral goes DIRECT to the N of the RCD , it should already be there . as you not touch any N Black cable.


refer to the wiring diagram by stormerlyn below....

Just a question.
your DB box is already correct with the EPS switch fuse .

what make you want to change to mcb ? ( it is not wrong to change.

ok there is no hurry for you to change this , just wait till one day you have electrician in your house , you and ask him change...



This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 10 2020, 03:30 PM

If your existing is the top photo, then the live goes in and out from it. The neutral from TNB will go straight to the RCCB.
If you change to the 2 pole version in the bottom picture, you should not leave the second slot empty (The slot on the right in your picture, without your red lines)
Take the neutral from the RCCB and poke into the second slot. And then from this dual pole take 2 wires and go to the RCCB.

Argh, sorry, logically the RCCB should be on the left, so the busbar can feed the MCBs

Edit to add this image from the internet


This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: Oct 9 2020, 09:34 PM

Get a electrician to help you if you are not sure.

Electric can kill you.

It is preferable to ensure that the RCD/MCB/isolator is from same brand. This way it will fit well when you install the busbar.
Also liability issue, if you fit proton engine into a honda MPV and using ECU from toyota, if the car blows up, I don't think insurance/mfg product liability will cover.

Also, for own house, preferably get the whole system from ABB/Hager/Schneider. These are reputable brands with easily 10-18 countries' certification.

The CE logo, to be honest is just suka suka self declaration [CE marking does not provide any specific information to the consumer. It is not a quality assurance declaration, it does not show evidence of third-party testing, and it should not be confused with any independent certification mark of the type issued by international or European notified test bodies.]


Seconded. When talking about main switch replacement you're dealing with live TNB feed of 230V at thousands of amps.
Just 0.05A is all that's needed to kill a person.

If working BEHIND the main switch isolator, that one is much safer since L and N are cut off from TNB safely. But to touch those live wires (since there is no isolator installed currently) it is a very risky thing, call an electrician.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 10 2020, 03:56 AM

the Hager , ABB ...etc is sold at really High price. about 2 to 3 times more .

if you on lower budget than go for EPS.
their products have certification . Type tested by Intertek Semko AB (Sweden) in compliance to IEC 60898

yes the CE logo is miss used.


sometimes you want to DIY small things. . so get info and learn up to understand how it works. access the risk and if you confident go ahead.

if you really want to work on the DB box ... the safest/best is to pull out the tenaga fuses at the outside panel by the Meter.
wear a thick rubber glove .
you must have a test pen or a digital meter to check iif safe.
always double check no power before you touch/handle .
always have a partner there . DO not work ALONE .



This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 10 2020, 03:57 PM