It is preferable to ensure that the RCD/MCB/isolator is from same brand. This way it will fit well when you install the busbar.
Also liability issue, if you fit proton engine into a honda MPV and using ECU from toyota, if the car blows up, I don't think insurance/mfg product liability will cover.

Also, for own house, preferably get the whole system from ABB/Hager/Schneider. These are reputable brands with easily 10-18 countries' certification.

The CE logo, to be honest is just suka suka self declaration [CE marking does not provide any specific information to the consumer. It is not a quality assurance declaration, it does not show evidence of third-party testing, and it should not be confused with any independent certification mark of the type issued by international or European notified test bodies.]


Seconded. When talking about main switch replacement you're dealing with live TNB feed of 230V at thousands of amps.
Just 0.05A is all that's needed to kill a person.

If working BEHIND the main switch isolator, that one is much safer since L and N are cut off from TNB safely. But to touch those live wires (since there is no isolator installed currently) it is a very risky thing, call an electrician.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 10 2020, 03:56 AM

Yes the 2P MCB is better because it cuts off both L and N (return path) together, hence it isolates the whole circuit in the house.
Because electricity is colour blind, it is not limited to just the live (typically red) wire, it can also (if there is a fault somewhere) travel along the black wire (N).
When you cut both the L and N, it is perfectly isolated.

It depends on the MCB spec.

When a MCB are marked “Line” and “Load,” the power supply conductors must be connected to the marked “Line.” These MCB cannot be reverse-fed. If “Line” and “Load” are not marked on MCB, the power supply conductors may be connected to either end. These devices are suitable for reverse-feed applications.


Those that say reversible line and load connections, or power supply connection=arbitrary then will work both ways.

Arbitrary doesnt mean random, but within reason, so if the line L from top, then line N also should be from top. So its not a license to have it LineL LoadN on top and LoadL LineN on bottom

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 16 2020, 09:47 PM

Usually RCD is direction specific and L/N specific. They will have a diagram 1 goes to 2, 3 goes to 4, that tells the line/load side, usually RCD is top fed.

So there is planning needed to ensure that the UUU and nnn sides all work in the right directions, right ordering sequence AND last but not least working with the physical limitation of the TNB line cables which in some cases are cut so super short that it won't even reach the end of the DB box, mine is fed from center (see the big red main switch). This causes the MCB to be top fed (but its ok because this series all arbitrary supply)

See the diagram, in this case yes both ways also can for the RCD because 1/2 and 2/1 from the diagram.



As for the MCB,
S201 range is always top feed (1 Line goes to 2 Load).
This is an older batch pic curi from internet.


This is my actual pic of the MCB, sorry for potato camera.


This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 17 2020, 12:38 AM

Actually that RCD is the most important because it protect against earth leakage/ground fault interrupter. You can change it yourself since its after the main switch fuses (hence the power can be shut off safely).
ABB 4P 63A 100ma only RM138 - https://shopee.com.my/ABB-RCCB-ELCB-RCD-40A...1048.7350447835 which if compared to same spec CHINT RCCB at RM107 (CHINT is PRC top MCB brand) isn't too expensive.

4P 30mA gives better human shock protection but since you are using in commercial i.e. heavy load equipment so 100mA is also acceptable.
I generally go with ABB because their "general home use" RCDs are cheapest among the 3 major brands ABB Hager Schneider [for my purpose] and if i remember correctly, RCD for ABB and Hager usually not made in China, but Italy/France respectively hence they cost more.
For high amp high sensitivity 4P 63A 30mA / 100A types these are more complex so it really cost more

Like the 40A 4P 30ma I am using (not pictured) is only RM127, cannot use 63A as TNB service only 10mm wire.
Their 10mA RCD for WH is a bit pricey, as compared to Hager and PRC Schneider. But got datasheet and its current model. H 10mA for water heater the stuff in the market seem to be discontinued model.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 17 2020, 03:42 PM

Alternatively thinset mortar also can work to stick back the skirting tiles, if it does fall off

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 25 2020, 01:38 PM