QUOTE(ceo684 @ Oct 10 2020, 04:51 AM)
It is preferable to ensure that the RCD/MCB/isolator is from same brand. This way it will fit well when you install the busbar.
Also liability issue, if you fit proton engine into a honda MPV and using ECU from toyota, if the car blows up, I don't think insurance/mfg product liability will cover.
Also, for own house, preferably get the whole system from ABB/Hager/Schneider. These are reputable brands with easily 10-18 countries' certification.
The CE logo, to be honest is just suka suka self declaration
[CE marking does not provide any specific information to the consumer. It is not a quality assurance declaration, it does not show evidence of third-party testing, and it should not be confused with any independent certification mark of the type issued by international or European notified test bodies.]Seconded. When talking about main switch replacement you're dealing with live TNB feed of 230V at thousands of amps.
Just 0.05A is all that's needed to kill a person.
If working BEHIND the main switch isolator, that one is much safer since L and N are cut off from TNB safely. But to touch those live wires (since there is no isolator installed currently) it is a very risky thing, call an electrician.
the Hager , ABB ...etc is sold at really High price. about 2 to 3 times more .
if you on lower budget than go for EPS.
their products have certification . Type tested by Intertek Semko AB (Sweden) in compliance to IEC 60898
yes the CE logo is miss used.
sometimes you want to DIY small things. . so get info and learn up to understand how it works. access the risk and if you confident go ahead.
if you really want to work on the DB box ... the safest/best is to pull out the tenaga fuses at the outside panel by the Meter.
wear a thick rubber glove .
you must have a test pen or a digital meter to check iif safe.
always double check no power before you touch/handle .
always have a partner there . DO not work ALONE .
This post has been edited by Momo33: Oct 10 2020, 03:57 PM