semi-syn how come so expensive. Should be around 150 only without balancing/alignment.

yes 2nd service cost should be same as 1st, cause engine oil, oil filter and gasket only..

dashboard where got clock. It's not a clock, its a time counter..

acceptable if go back to Proton SC, but she plan to go to nearest workshop that is not Authorised SC. So big NO NO.

should be nothing happened. I read before on a tire website, the tire can actually tahan more than x2 of the supposed "max" limit stated on the tire sidewalls before any damage happens.

but on the other hand while nothing will happen to the tire (no bursts/explosions), but if you travel fast on an overpressured tire and hit a pothole with speed then it may have a chance to burst or something.. But on its own, if pump too much nothing will happen to the tire..

which SC?

no i just wanna know whether is Proton Edar SC or Authorised SC...

for the outside smell entering, its maybe because Iriz doesnt come with a cabin filter. I also plan to go buy one...

yes for stock Iriz came with only that black wire mesh, no actual filters.

not sure, but i saw someone selling before for Iriz on here.. maybe you can try search for it..

i can vouch for this.

I always pump petrol whenever the orange fuel low indicator comes on, then i will pump about +- 34 litres worth of fuel.. So when the orange light comes on, it has about 5+litres of fuel left in the car..
So depending on your driving style, you will know how much more you can go, like for me my average is 12.5km/L so maximum i can stretch is about 50~60km...

but i wont advice you to do that of course, your fuel pump may get damaged. So just pump whenever orange light comes on to be safe.. Then you also have plenty of spare fuel to find your preferred petrol station..

This post has been edited by LordDenning: May 18 2016, 11:04 PM

Here at setapak sc for 2nd service.. do alignment/balancing they charge me rm58 wtf

not sure. my dad say if do outside can do for around 30+. So basically SC charges double.

what do you mean from normal become abnormal? Idk about these alignment/balancing stuffs

and then does that mean we can only do alignment/balancing back at Proton SC? Wow if thats the case, really cut throat man. Rm60++ after gst..

This post has been edited by LordDenning: May 20 2016, 12:08 AM

what's muffler deletes?

faulty break sensor switch. Nothing serious at all, just the sensor haywire. Go SC fix it

I pump 230/240 kpa hahah

we have no air-cond filter in the first place. lol

Its just some basic wire net.

Anyone faced this issue before?

My car when doing cold starts, first engine start of the day or after leaving it for several long hours (where the engine is cool), when I shift from P to D, the engine RPM was about 1k in P, then when P move to D, the RPM drops to 800+ and climbs to 1k+ before slowly going back down to 800+ and in the mean time, the car engine will jerk slightly and battery light shows up occasionally.)

Contrast to at other times when I start the car, when P the RPM is about 1k, shift to D the RPM drops smoothly to 800+, no jerks whatsoever. So im wondering why is this happening...

and another one which just happened recently (never experienced it before previously), when i press on the brake pedal to slow down, right before the car halts to 0, you can feel a bit jerking from the engine (like engine braking kinda feeling) and sometimes the battery light shows up. but its like not there for long, it just flashes up and goes away (same like when in cold starts shifting from P to D)

Wondering what could be the problem? Battery issue? Alternator? Wiring problems?

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Jun 9 2016, 10:08 PM

bump

Anyone faced this issue before?

My car when doing cold starts, first engine start of the day or after leaving it for several long hours (where the engine is cool), when I shift from P to D, the engine RPM was about 1k in P, then when P move to D, the RPM drops to 800+ and climbs to 1k+ before slowly going back down to 800+ and in the mean time, the car engine will jerk slightly and battery light shows up occasionally.)

Contrast to at other times when I start the car, when P the RPM is about 1k, shift to D the RPM drops smoothly to 800+, no jerks whatsoever. So im wondering why is this happening...

and another one which just happened recently (never experienced it before previously), when i press on the brake pedal to slow down, right before the car halts to 0, you can feel a bit jerking from the engine (like engine braking kinda feeling) and sometimes the battery light shows up. but its like not there for long, it just flashes up and goes away (same like when in cold starts shifting from P to D)

Wondering what could be the problem? Battery issue? Alternator? Wiring problems?