yes, it will ruin the clickiness and feel.
but why would u want to lube it in the first place?

there's nothing much to modify the blue switch except for changing springs to your preference, or at least that's what i know for blue switch...
i didn't modify my blue switch as i think it's perfect for me already.

get tactile or linear switch keyboard n lube them

This post has been edited by justnits: May 26 2016, 11:21 AM

No use yellow flower before. But I personally would prefer to use good quality soldering station. Don't want to risk spoiling my keyboard with cheap ones

hakko is definitely highly recommended if you have the budget and going to invest into this hobby. (or if you have other things that you have to solder)

for me, at least get a soldering station with adjustable temperature and also make sure it has other safety feature like ESD safe. get a few different good soldering tips as well.

the hunt for white filco is always on lol!

lel, i more active in overwatch thread now

hahaha! most of my tshirt all not mainstream brand or no brand de...
mostly are camp tshirts, or club tshirts, or game tshirts

just FYI, AFAIK there's 2 keyboard that has a lot of led issue, and that is Ducky Shine 3 and CM QF Rapid-i.
i believe it's due to bad batch of led, but have not dismiss that it might be pcb design issue yet.

those 2 models have the worse dead led cases that i've ever come across.

though i'm not sure if there's anyone who owns a shine 3 or rapid-i swapped out the leds on their own...

sounds like you need imsto or gateron dyesub

dadude! long time no see mang!

but those uv coated backlit oem profile keycaps like ducky, razer, cm, corsair, are necessary for the bling bling.
if only some manufacturer makes cherry profile uv coated backlit keycaps...

one nice thing about custom is, you can stretch your budget across a few months.
as in, you don't sekaligus get all the parts, that's why it's also called building your own custom keyboard.
and that's what i did when i'm building my nerd tkl.
i bought my parts from different places and different time, depending on my budget.
overall it took my about 3-4 months to collect all my parts (including research and switch&stab modifications)
and 5-6 hours in one seating to assemble it.

wallet, checked, still there despite all the hole patch.
left nut, checked, still functioning very well.
kidney, checked, still there.

i saved some money however from harvesting old switches from old keyboards instead of getting new ones.
but to be honest, i purposely wanted old mx black switch because the older generation of mx blacks (aka vintage blacks) are much smoother than the new ones.

and i also opt for acrylic case where it's so much cheaper than aluminium casing or cnc cases

damn dadudeneverabides, still the same before you submarine.

eoma, usage tips use like normal. but if you are like me, oily skin problem, u might want to consider washing your hand with soap regularly or have a hand sanitizer next to you instead of lotion (if you know what i mean ).
reason for this is, the oil in our skin will cause the keycaps to "shine" faster. unless your keycaps is made from PBT material where it's nearly unshine-able from regular normal usage.

also cleaning, like dadude says, the easiest and convenient way is to use polident, don't steal from your gramps, buy from pharmacy or tesco. some greasier stain might need you to manually clean them with clothe, preferably microfibre. pls treat your keycaps like they are delicate things.

what to expect? expect your wallet to get rip after you get addicted to changing keycaps
or addicted to getting more keyboards just because you are curious about how black,blue,red,brown,white,indigo,pink,unicorn feels like.

o-rings, personally i say nay. the bottoming/clicky sound is music to my ears. whoever doesn't like that will have to get ear plugs instead, or have their eardrums removed simply because they don't know how to appreciate beauty sound. nah just kidding. the only annoying keys are clicky blue, if your colleagues or housemate or family really cannot tahan, then you can do them a favour by putting on the rubber orings.
if you learn how to control your bottoming power, it shouldn't be a problem. alternatively a better thing would be non-slip mat mod, but that requires voiding your keyboard's warranty and it wouldn't reduce the sound more effectively than o-ring.

oh yes, KY'd gateron are super buttery smooth.
unfortunately when i build my nerd, or when i start getting the parts, gateron switch weren't known yet or weren't that good yet.

for linear switch, i swear by KY linear gateron switch!
sorry cherry, you lost the linear switch ranking.

exactly, the o-ring i feel is damn potong stim.

no worries, it's just another way of me saying that your presence in the thread was dearly missed haha!
good to have you back

probably some salty bus3rd reported him to tax officer

You got me curious there

dayum, i'd think twice about buying keycaps from u

but if you put on keycaps, what also cannot see liao
still, no doubt the red stabs does make this naked board looks pretty

i kind of remember something about ducky zero isn't made in taiwan or something.
someone pls correct me on this lol!

^FIFY

also, bluetooth? gateron? razer's 1st standard layout keyboard? interested to get them? look no further, sometimes you just have to stop and look down

your definition of "best RGB keyboard"?
since u say switch doesn't matter, when u say doesn't matter, do you mean it doesn't matter if it's cherry mx, kailh, gateron, bla bla, or do you mean the type as in tactile, clicky, linear, onecup?

dragorc also veteran who submarine