Looks very small and tight. I would recommend using touchup paint to fill the small spot.

Mmm, whether to level it or not is up to u. If using paint as filler, it will usually shrink and sink in once it dries, so it may not bulge out for u to level it. Since it is a very small chip, not necessary to be overly aggressive.

I kinda think that more often than not stone chips happen most frequent on highways, even the city ones. Its usually because of the speed we are going when hitting the stones.

One important mental note I always keep to myself is avoid following behind lorries, 4x4 vehicles or any vehicle that their back tyres are picking up stones anf flinging it up to the air for me to hit. Keeping the reasonable distance (usually 2 cars or more) also helps to reduce the chances of hitting flying stones.

Also another mental note I keep is avoid driving near grasscutters as their machine may accidentally fling stones when cutting grass also.

Beyond that, if chips do happen, just have to accept lor. Over time if it gets bad enough, may consider respraying. Hope this helps.

Yes, the fine art brushes would do quite well. Doesnt need to be an expensive brush, just a normal one would do. Just remember to wash the brush thoroughly after use so that the leftover paint dont harden on the brush.

The tool makes neat work, but cleaning the tool requires more effort. Hehe.

As I understand, u will need a needle of some sort to clear the narrow nozzle. Also, since this is car paint, I believe some turpentine or paint thinner would be required.

I am assuming the "map" u mention is a patch of stain. U can try use cleaner wax liquid or paste to clean it off. Spray wax doesnt have the abrasive power.

I think there needs to be clarification. Are u referring to side windows side mirrors. These are 2 different areas.

As I know, side windows, while not tempered or laminated, are of the similar glass material as the windshield, hence polishing with a compound that has cerium oxide is highly recommended and using acid (vinegar is also acid) is not recommended.

However, side mirrors on the other hand, the glass layer of the mirror is of softer material compared to windows and windshield, thus polishing would probably have a more harmful effect. For side mirror watermark removals, acid may be the only choice, though should also be used carefully and sparingly where possible.

If anyone has better info to confirm or counter this, please feel free to share.

The place I regularly go to is MyRide Taman Melawati. They arent too bad and cleanliness standard maintain for the many years that I go there.

However, if u are looking for a shop to wash your car gently like self wash, then unfortunately I havent found any around this area. Best to self wash.

The safest method that I always use when replacing roadtax is using Zippo lighter fluid. Squirt on a tissue paper and wipe it a few times, it all comes of very easily. Zippo lighter fluid is a very useful light glue remover and tends to leave less mess than IPA. U can use it to remove price tag stickers, some ink pen marks, etc. If Zippo fails then my next step only go into IPA.

The steps look mostly okay. However, just zooming into some details:

Step 2: U will also need clay lubricant, a budget option is Optimum No-Rinse Wash&Shine.
Step 3: U can try ask Osren or SGCB on machine recommendations as they are based on your budget also. U will also need polishing cream, pads, and microfiber cloths for buffing after each polishing round.
Step 5: Perhaps u should go and watch how ppl do coating at shops first before attempting DIY coating. It is a very tedious process, and wrong technique can result in requiring u to strip the coating and reapply again.

For polishing cream I generally would recommend Meguiars, mainly because I have most experience with them and know how they work pretty much inside out. However, as Meguiars polishes can be pricey, there are also plenty of other brands that u could consider like Osren, Cartec, Menzerna.

Personally, I would not suggest applying DIY coating unless u are more experienced in car detailing. I wouldnt know if Mr.Fix's coating is good or not, for that u have to read the reviews. But I do know coating application is a tedious and time consuming process, and I would prefer to recommend u to apply something simpler such as paste wax or spray sealant as a starting point. Coating application alone could take hours, and curing also needs at least 24-48 hours. Plenty of microfiber buffing cloths are required, as some of them will eventually be thrown away after the coating residue hardens on the cloth because it cannot wash off.

If u still feel that u want to apply coating, then perhaps make sure u have enough extra applicator pads and microfiber towels first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXynw5a6EZo

That depends on what car u drive. If its Asian car (Japan/Korea/Malaysia), u only need to buy the Bosch Clear Advantage. But if your car is Western make (US, Europe), then u require Bosch Aerotwin. The clips are different.


A sealant is basically a synthetic protection liquid that provides more protection durability compared to traditional car waxes. A typical car wax may last between 1 week to 2 months, a sealant can last between 1 month to 4 months. Even though the argument could be durability can be subjective depending on how u care for your car, what is commonly agreed is a car sealant is more durable than wax.

https://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/ca...nt-sealant.html
https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/what-i...-paint-sealant/

So before u may pop the next question of recommendation, let me just share there are numerous good quality car sealants in the market. The 2 popular ones are Carpro Reload and Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. Feel free to find reviews about them on youtube and compare.

It is not silicone. Personally I am not a fan of silicone wipers, and also I find wipers to be wear and tear stuff, so Bosch fits into my budget and needs.

Maybe its a long time ago, but I had used silicone wipers before, and I found that eventually it wears and tears pretty much the same as conventional rubber wipers, with a more expensive price tag because sellers then were cashing in on silicone wipers being "better and longer lasting" than regular wipers. Since after that experience, I decided to stick to Bosch rubber wipers, and just change it every 1-2 years, which is roughly about its lifespan anyways.

I have also shaped my mind to believe that wipers are a wear and tear consumable, not a buy once and forget item, so I prefer not to pay or hunt for expensive silicone wipers just for a slightly longer durability. Besides, companies like Bosch does good research into our tropical climate, and makes their wiper blades last reasonably longer for our hot weather.

If u guys do have a different opinion regarding wipers, please do share, as I have not purchased a silicone wiper for a long long time and dont know what's the price vs durability vs performance on silicone wipers these days.

Mmm, I do my wash and wax saperately, and I’m still using Meguiars NXT till today. U could head over to ACE hardware to browse also, they have a decent selection of car care products. Alternatively u could head over to Osren in Kepong to see what they have in store for u.

As u mentioned your car being pearl white, just be aware that with our tropical rains, u could start seeing dirt streaks forming at door handles and other places, which if left long enough may not be able to be washed off with regular car wash alone. For those streaks it may require either a stronger cleaner (Osren in Kepong has a solution) or a cleaner wax to clean them off.

As I know NXT is slightly more aggressive as a soap, cleans better than gold class. Having said so doesnt automatically mean NXT is automatically better, as more aggressive also means it will deplete the protection u apply faster. So if u wanna maximize your cleaning, then go for NXT, if u wanna minimize damage to your sealant/wax that u applied previously, then Gold Class.

This is based on my observation based on having used both products before, but no means its a technical fact. If anyone else have better clarity on technical level of these 2 products, please feel free to share.

Start by washing your car clean. After that clay your car.

Age of car is not relevant to choice of claybar. Most important is find a claybar of good quality (not the cheap blue 3M types) and compatible clay lubricant.

Once done then give your car a rinsing again to clean off clay lube residue. Then can apply your Fast Finish based on the instructions given.

Perhaps u should review your washing method as well as the equipment u use.

Method review:
1) Ideally u should always wash from top to bottom, because bottom of the car is where dirt collects the most and u dont want to pickup dirt from bottom and scrub the top.
2) U should always rinse your wash mitt before moving to next panel/section instead of trying to stretch your mitt's soap. If u willing to do it, use your spray hose and pressure spray off the wash mitt surface before dunking into your soap bucket for more soap. Alternatively, try the 2 bucket method of washing.
3) Never use the same mitt or soap for wheels and car body.
4) For drying, ideally top to bottom approach also should apply.

Equipment review:
1) U should always inspect your microfiber towels before drying car. Sometimes there may be hard contaminants that didnt come off in the last wash. Use your fingernails to pick them off.
2) Separate your wash mitt between car body and wheels.
3) Avoid using sponges as wash mitts, as they tend to create marring that will be visible over time.
4) Avoid using squeegee as a means of drying your car.

For good microfiber towel, u can try contact SGCB or Osren, or alternatively can try Fireball towel. Personally, I would buy a bigger towel from Osren or SGCB, then fold them to give it more thickness.

For removing scratches, u can try getting some recommendations from Osren to start. They have compounds, polishes and pads that can start u off.

Ah

Currently Osren only distributes their products to commercial detailers around the country (and overseas I think). However, they do welcome anyone to there HQ in Kepong to purchase direct from them. Alternatively, u can also contact them via their FB page to enquire and also purchase products and arrange shipment.

If u have scratches after coating then u should go back to the coating shop to repair it. Rightfully they should have removed all defects before coating as that is what u paid for.

If u search in Lazada, u will find that grit guards come in 2 main sizes, 23cm and 26cm diameter. bring a long 30cm ruler to AEON/AEON Big/Tesco nearest to u, go to their pails section, find measure the base of the pail if the diameter is the same, similar or very close. Those buckets should work just fine also.