Often if bumper popped out it most likely mean the clip holding it broke. U could try visit some car accessories shop first see if they can fix back for small fee, else go back to service center for proper repair.

Yes, nothing wrong with that. Regular protection is always a good thing.

U could try to change the wipers yourself also. One pair of bosch clear advantage wipers cost about rm70 from lazada. Dont buy aerotwin because its for european cars only.

Another option to try is to clay your windshield. This helps also from my experience.

Yes, I experienced 2 different types of situation. One situation just clip fell off, service center replaced for minimal fee. Another is clip and clip hole broke, that one accessories shop can drill a different hole and put on a separate clip.

Generally when it comes to coating, the ideal situation is to have the car defect free, meaning repair all the knocks, paint chips, swirls and scratches. For swirls and scratches, it should be part of your coating package, but knocks and paint chips is something u have to do elsewhere.

Branding wise, yes there are many, but properties wise, they are very similar if not the same. They are generally semi-permanent protection systems with similar properties such as superior dirt repellency, water beading, ease of washing, etc. Prices also may vary based on the details of the package they offer, such as maintenance, warranty, etc. Perhaps u can narrow down based on your budget and choose from there.

Rightfully, windscreen shouldnt scratch as easily, unless u encountered a situation where u turned on your wiper to sweep off sand on dry screen.

From your description I am not sure if its truly your screen issue or wiper issue. Perhaps take a close up photo to know for sure.

Claying is not about strength or pressure on the claybar, but its the repetition of movement. A claybar's effectiveness is only best when the surface of the claybar is freshly kneaded open, and the effectiveness quickly diminishes as it picks up contaminants. So repetitive folding and reopening of new claybar surface is required.

I have bought cheap claybars like those 3M blue ones before, and I will tell u now they are worse than useless. Trust me when I tell u that claybar is not something u wanna go cheap on. At minimum I would recommend u buy clay cloth if claybars are above your budget. At least clay cloth works better than the pirated 3M claybars.

From my experience with another product that had sticky rubbers, the only way to solve it is to remove the rubber. I removed it using IPA.

If u want to restore the rubber without removing it, then u need to find a interior specialist, they will strip and reapply the rubber for u.

It looks decent, at least from a reputable company. Do bear in mind that u will also need a form of clay lubricant to go with your claybar.

From my experience, I store my claybar in a small plastic tub which is sprayed with some quick detailer (which is my clay lube). Generally it shouldnt smell, but if it does, its more due to the sweat and dirt that sticks to it, which is not something u can do much about.

Looking at the size of the claybar, I am estimating u can cut it into 2 or 3 pieces, then use 1 first and keep the other piece(s) for next time. Claybars are very reusable, so only throw them away when it becomes hard for u to knead open a visibly clean surface, or the overall colour of the used claybar is much darker than the unused ones. Also, avoid dropping your claybar, as if the floor is dirty and your claybar picks up chunks of contaminants from it, then its not safe to use.

Hmm, I dont have a scientific or proven answer, but only my opinion. I dont think wax can be removed with by using pressure via pressure washer. It is not the same as how ppl use pressure washer to clean dirt from moldy walls or driveway. As V429 said, if the pressure is strong enough to remove your wax, it may be strong enough to damage your paint as well.

I believe when u apply protectant, it will shield your surface, but the contaminant will then fall on the protectant, so there's only so much u can prevent. So as V429 mentioned, regular maintenance is the key.

I would suggest paint thinner used for removing household paint from hardware store, but must definitely handle with care.

Means that paint thinner can potentially harm your car paint if not careful. Use a cotton bud, dip into paint thinner and lightly swipe the household paint residue until gone, then rinse the spot with water. Dont go Rambo on it.

Actually it happens to numerous cars. My previous and current Honda Civic does have that issue, but since I dont ferry ppl often and I dont randomly touch most parts of my car except my driver side, I dont care for it as much other than the occasional wipe after washing my car.

I have used Meguiar's Natural Shine Protectant for interior, gives a natural look as it says without being too glossy. I only use Meguiars Ultimate Protectant for exterior plastics mostly.

I have not done the protectant for my current Civic. But my previous civic had some reduction in the smudging. U probably will know if the protectant needs reapplying when the smudging starts back.

However, just to be fair, prior to my first application of protectant, I cleaned all the interior surfaces with APC and brush. Perhaps u can consider doing that also.

APC = all purpose cleaner. U can try searching interior cleaning and care videos on youtube for more learning.

My answers are:

1) Claying picks up contaminants from one section, if u dont fold in and reopen a fresh clean surface, the contaminants on existing section will scratch the next section. Best to regularly inspect, fold and reopen a new clay surface regularly to reduce the scratching.

2) U have to take photo of this for us to see. Rightfully there shouldnt be any blotches, unless they are watermarks.

3) My advice as per number 1, and avoid dropping claybar on the floor, else it will pickup contaminants from the floor (best practice says to throw away if that happens).

4) I clay maybe once a year, depending if I want to do anything after claying.

1 more piece of advice. Claying is about frequency of movement, not pressure. Pressing harder on the claybar will create more scratches but doesnt do anything extra for the claying process because the claybar surface already full of contaminants. Light pressure, frequent passes, regular folding and reopening of fresh clean surface. That will give u a great clean surface.

If u wanna be truly anal, u can use the plastic bag test, wear a plastic bag on your hand and feel the surface after claying. If its still bumpy, continue claying until no more bumps.

Definitely dont have to throw after claying 1 car. In fact, if your claybar is big sized, u can cut into half or more, then just use one of it to clay and keep the rest like brand new. Once one of it turns very very dark colour (compared to the others that never been used before), or when the used claybar starts to breakdown and and crumble, then can throw that one and take out the next piece to use. That way your 1 claybar could be used for a very long time.

For storage find a small plastic container, spray abit of quick detailer in it, and keep it inside. That will keep the claybar from drying up and stored for future use.

1) Often half of the contaminants may not be visible to the naked eye even after picked up by claybar. Nonetheless, u probably need to keep testing.

2) I dont count the amount of passes per section, but on average I use 4 fresh claybar surfaces per section if I want 95%-100% removal of contaminants. This is mainly important only for polishing purposes, else 2 fresh surfaces per section should be sufficient if just applying protection (sealant/wax).

3) From picture assessment, there is a possibility the blotches are one of 2 possibilities:
a) swirls/marring/light scratches, to confirm try compounding/polishing step by hand/machine.
b) early stage clearcoat failure, this is based on assessment that your headlights are also starting to haze. Do u park out in the sun regularly for a long time?

Yes, claying will provide that effect, but technically it is a naked paint, so a followup with protection (wax/sealant) is still recommended. Also, another tip is u can also clay your windshield/windows, it helps with wiper performance and water beading.

Depends on claybar. My experience with using Meguiars claybar and shampoo is after a few times the claybar starts to break down and disintegrate.

In all fairness, after blasting most of the poop off with water, I feel u can go in with your brushes and whatever soap or wheel cleaner u are using and give it another good brushing before finishing rinse. Then after that just clean your brushes as normal with some soap and wash, if u feel the fear of germs then just add put in some antibacterial soap or something. More important is to clean off the poop, as even a small chunk leftover can cause abit of smell at the specific wheel area.



From your description I know which claybar u bought. Considering that its breaking into pieces, it could be either ur claybar is defective, or the clay lube u use is drying up the claybar and causing it to disintegrate (from my experience that seems most likely the case). If the majority of the claybar is still intact and can be molded back into 1 piece, try spraying some quick detailer and see if it recovers in next use. Else, u may need to replace the claybar sooner than expected.

Mmm, just my 2 sen, the 2 posts replied are all accurate. But I also wish to share my opinion from a different angle. As u mentioned, your other cars are light coloured, so just to let u know, generally white/light coloured cars are good at hiding swirls but bad at hiding dirt or dirtiness. Black/dark coloured cars are bad at hiding swirls (and even water spots) but good at hiding dirt or dirtiness. This is the general conditions that come with car colours.

Think of swirls as scratches on a surface (very very fine ones). U can fill a scratch with with wax to mask it, but eventually when the wax dissipates (through weather and washing), the scratches will come back. U can continue to do this if u like.

Polishing on the other hand, is basically taking a super-duper fine sandpaper and gently shaving off a thin layer of your paint in an effort to level it with the scratch depth so that everything becomes even. If u can visualize this, then u are on the right path.

However, polishing alone may not solve your problem in the long run if your washing and protection regime is poor. When u polish, your paint technically becomes naked. Based on your current method of washing using a cloth as your scrubber/agitator of your wash soap, u will inadvertently scratch your paint again with the dirt that's on the cloth rubbing on the car. That is why from best practice point of view, ppl will recommend a plush wash mitt (preferably microfiber). Typical wash sponge sold in most hardware stores are also no good because it does the same with your cloth.

Protection regime is also very important. Any good wax provides protection from dirt sticking or gripping onto your paint, and easy to wash off with less effort.

So, for wash mitt I would recommend u try finding mr clean miracle wash mitt, for shampoo I think u can find most are pretty okay. For drying cloth, try to find one that is large (60cm x 70cm), thick and absorbent. This reduces the amount of times u have to wring dry the cloth when drying your car.

Erm, rust forming, touchup paint can only provide short term solution as rust will continue to form under the paint and spread. Better recommendation is proper repaint.

For more budget friendly or commercial level use, u could try similar glass polish products from Osren or Kleenson Marketing. The core component for glass polish is Cerium Oxide. If u could find that, u could also purchase in bulk to reduce costs.

Alternatively, u can also try using standard car polish, some have reported success with Meguiars M205 and equivalents. Of course, preferably such tests should be done on test panels and not actual cars.

U can try contact Action Star / SGCB distributor via mobile or FB, they do carry some Meguiars pro range. For more variety, more recommended to check in Lazada.

If beading and durability is your criteria, I believe hands down it would be Fusso Coat. However, do read up on its negative points (such as water spots), then see if u can live with them.

Magic eraser, or melamine sponge as it is also known, is not safe to use on cars for a very simple reason: It is almost guaranteed to scratch your paintwork. The texture of the sponge is coarse and it is dense, so not only it will just about strip most protection u put on, u will be adding a whole new world of trouble with scratches and swirls.

If u read more details about melamine sponge usages, they will tell u not to use on any polished finish surfaces as it may scratch. On car paint it would be worse.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-a-...ar-by-kevin-woo

Is it possible to manually remove the tail lamp yourself? If u can remove it yourself, maybe try taking it out over the weekend and place it near grass or plant and see if she could see the greener grass on the other side of ur lamp and migrate.

Fastest way to answer your first question for car body:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNPtBeyOlNA

However, please bear in mind that these are the variety only for the car body. For windshield there is a far greater limitation of products to use. Number 1 most important is NO ACID for windshield waterspot removal, especially the front windshield. The best and safest recommendation would be to use any product that contains cerium oxide, namely Carpro Ceriglass (that is the only one I know here). The 2nd best recommendation is to try using regular car compound/polish on a windshield test spot and see if that helps to remove as I have read some ppl had positive results with it also.

For waxing/sealant, it depends on what u are looking for in terms of gloss shine, durability, ease of application, cost, etc. Maybe start with a simple tub of wax (maybe from Meguiars, Osren, etc), then discover your preferences as u go along.