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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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douglas_tong
post Jun 26 2016, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(stevensteady @ Jun 26 2016, 10:42 AM)
My latest project, orange peel removal

Before
[attachmentid=6944657]
After
[attachmentid=6944667]
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Cool stuff! Nice.
What products did you use? Or rather combinations?
douglas_tong
post Jul 1 2016, 02:36 PM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(gfwong @ Jul 1 2016, 10:43 AM)
Bro, you've tried this (Meguiar's Paint Protect)? Any good?
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Nope. Like I said, I don't think I need it, cause I enjoy waxing every now and then. But promotion over Liao. Sob

Based on what I have read. This is for non- enthusiast. Protection last long, beading mediocre, shine level low. Its main selling point is still long lasting protection.
douglas_tong
post Jul 3 2016, 10:09 PM

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QUOTE(gfwong @ Jul 2 2016, 09:50 PM)
Thanks for sharing.

I myself use meguiars endurance too. Have to be applied thinly cause it slings. Durability is close to 2 weeks. One bottle can last more than a year even applying for several cars. Still have half left
douglas_tong
post Jul 11 2016, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(Waliuuu @ Jul 10 2016, 10:57 PM)
Hello guys, I'm starting to get interested in detailing and wish to learn more to take care of my car.
Normally I'll only polish and just buff the surface without using wax but after some reading, I've decided to start waxing.
My car right now is covered with tree saps.. If I were to start, the correct steps would be: Rinse ~> Wash ~> Clay ~> Polish ~> Wax. Right?

So I'm going to list out what I am going to do: (Do correct me if there's any mistakes..)  sweat.gif
Rinsing and washing: By using the two bucket method and clean in one direction instead of circular motion, keep rinsing the microfiber to wash off the dirt.
Clay: By using a clay bar and warm water as lubricant, wipe the clay over all surfaces to pull out dirt which aren't trapped by the microfiber cloth. After claying, dry the car completely and start polishing.
Polish: By using a DA/ROB powered tool and appropriate pads, apply polishing product onto the pad (four dots) then lean the pad to the surfaces I'm going to work on and switch on the powered tool (in low speed), coat the surface with polishing product first then slowly increase the speed to start removing swirls/ scratches etc. Apply moderate pressure on the tool and polish in one direction then overlap in opposite direction until the polishing product starts to turn clean only use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the polish residue.
Wax: After polishing, apply wax using applicator pad and coat the entire car with a thin layer of wax and let it set. Run a finger across waxed surface to check if the wax has set then buff off the wax.

If the above steps are okay.. I'll need some opinions from you guys on which and what to buy..
I'll go casual first, currently eye-ing on:
Shampoo - Osren Bubble & Wax
Clay - 3M Clay Bar
Polish - Idk yet
Wax - Meg. Ultimate Paste Wax
DA - Budget around 500, what can I get lol
Pads - What kind of pads do I need and how many should I get?

Thanks in advance!  notworthy.gif
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Osren shampoo is good in terms of suds and shine. But breaks down clay bar easily from my experience. 3m is ok if you manage to get original ones. Else can opt for perma glass since they having promotion now.
For da, if you willing to try aliexpress, I can share the link late . This seller seems to have good review and it is the same as the osren dap15 model.
For pads....subjective. But I started with 2 cuttings, 2 polishing and 2 finishing pads. Clean with home diy pad cleaner, only require 2 grit guards and 1 specific bucket. Else you would need more than 2 pads. I started off with osren pads and lake country CCS pads. Find it to be sufficient.
douglas_tong
post Jul 11 2016, 03:16 PM

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http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32515494286.htmlhtml

This is the link to the da polisher by reputable seller of foam lance. Sells other detailing tools as well
douglas_tong
post Jul 18 2016, 03:05 AM

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QUOTE(gingerman2408 @ Jul 17 2016, 11:04 PM)
Hi guys, about to get a new car soon, so i've been reading this thread about how to maintain the outlook of the car in tiptop condition.

Thinking to not go for professional coating as it is quite expensive - might spend some money to buy good quality DIY products instead.

But i'm a bit overwhelmed by the information in this thread and would appreciate if someone can give a good summary on:
- once getting my new car, what is the first step after tinting?
- what products should i buy? ( i read about polish, wax, clay, sealant - not too sure what are their individual purpose)
- what kind of maintenance and schedule should i follow after that?

Really appreciate if someone can give me a Detailing 101 here and maybe also help many of the readers who are too lazy to ask smile.gif
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1. Before getting new car - Best to ask your salesperson not to wash it / polish it or process it. Deliver it dirty even if it has to be so. Reason is to avoid scratches that could be possibly done by improper handling.

2. Get it "protected" asap. Either by coating/sealant/wax. Unless its paint is still new, not more than 3 months, if so, just wash it with the 2 bucket 2 grit guard method.

3. Depending on the level of paint condition, if the car is touch minimally, chances are there wont be many scratches. Depending how finicky you are, you may choose for paint correction via various polishing products. else, waxing it would do. You will need:
-car shampoo
-2 buckets and 2 grit guards
-wash mitt
- clay
- wax
-Polish (optional)
- brushes and sponge for tyres

4. Wash it weekly is considered the norm. (But i haven't been washing for 2 weeks tongue.gif)

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Jul 18 2016, 03:05 AM
douglas_tong
post Jul 20 2016, 05:36 PM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(supersimple123 @ Jul 20 2016, 02:10 PM)
Thanks! Did a quick search and it costs over USD40 overseas.. costly indeed, but might be a worthwhile tool if it can last for quite awhile (any ideas on its durability? will it become shredded/damaged after couple of uses?).
Any ideas where we can get those wheel woolies locally or if we have a local producer which would make it cheaper?

Oh.. I did toy with the idea of using wash bottle brushes but could not until now find a suitable one. All the ones i've looked at seemed too stiff and like it would scratch painted surfaces. Also the middle of the brush is usually made of metal.. kindda worried on that. Do you have a particular brand that maybe i have missed?

Thanks again! smile.gif
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hmmm actually it is indeed hard to find a good wheel woolie here. in fact no one in my list that sells.
But closes would be antirain. link
quality is ok for the price of RM 10. very soft though.
douglas_tong
post Jul 21 2016, 11:33 AM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(windskill @ Jul 20 2016, 11:39 PM)
Oh cool it's RM10 only? I thought it will be more than RM20. Is the bristle made of plastic-like material?

Currently I am using the brush like this...it's very soft like hair. Long enough to go deep into the wheel rim. But I find that it is difficult to go into the gap between the brake caliper and rim (only for certain kind of rim).

user posted image
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Yes. plastic like. but really soft and i only use it for quick wash. else it's a different brush that i go to.
For small gap, i usually rely on this from antirain as well.
it's only Rm 8 and the huge toilet bowl washer like brush is only 10.
The wooden brush would get any tight spots since it's really flat, so can the toilet washer brush. (LOL)
But it's so soft it barely agitates imo (toilet washer)
douglas_tong
post Jul 26 2016, 11:20 AM

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This is the first time i hear someone polishing till clear coat is gone by hand...hmmm. a lot of strength was put into the paint?
douglas_tong
post Jul 27 2016, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(Sanity @ Jul 26 2016, 11:57 PM)
I used meguiar's applicator pad and just rubbed on the scratch.
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just wondering if you clayed it before polishing it?
there are chances that hazing might occur if you did not first clay it.
douglas_tong
post Jul 28 2016, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(derail @ Jul 28 2016, 05:08 PM)
That sounds right since many sealants/waxes that are in some solvent base anyway so its pointless to wipe down with ipa only to apply a product like FK1000 which contains alot of petroleum solvent.

What about sio based sealants like reload/gyeon cure/fireball coat? Do you normally wipe down with ipa after polishing (before applying the lsp)?

And do you know where to get hand polishing pads which I was asking in my earlier post?
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Clean it with IPA will do. That's my opinion.
Recently I'm too lazy. Since I have carpro essence now, I just do a quick/finishing polishing with soft foam and surface is ready for reload.

With essence , reloads seems to last longer
douglas_tong
post Aug 2 2016, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(windskill @ Aug 2 2016, 11:18 AM)
Fireball Ultimate Coating Wax can last about 1 month-ish, according to the seller.
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All these similar spray sealants are charm! So easy in application.

Back then I tried osren paint restorer 51 topped with carpro reload on my gf car. Lasted almost 2 months, horizon panels lasted only 1 month, vertical panels was still going strong

My car with essence as primer and carpro reload as secondary layer lasted more than 2 months. But I topped it up last week anyway.

Carpro reload will sheet instead of bead after few washes. I assume it's the same for the other 2. So can't really tell if protection is still there or not. After all, sheeting or beading =/= protection.
douglas_tong
post Aug 2 2016, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(windskill @ Aug 2 2016, 04:35 PM)
Yeap these spray sealants actually make our lives easier  smile.gif
I do agree with you that beading or sheeting does not mean the surface is protected. But I believe most of the people (including me) tend to attribute water sheeting/beading properties as the presence of surface protection on the paint, as apparently, this is the most straightforward observation. Haha.

Interested to know where to get carpro essence here? That sounds pretty cool.
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I got mine from waregem. (500ml)
Waxxon is the sole distributor here, but only selling 1 litre at Rm400, (last i heard)

it contains a lot of filler (semi-permanent) but really brings the shine out. many are saying it's comparable to klasse aio, but essence last much longer.
Some detailer did a test to remove essence after curing and felt short of oven cleaner to remove it. It was really hard to strip it according to him
douglas_tong
post Aug 3 2016, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(gfwong @ Aug 3 2016, 03:18 PM)
I am not sure if these links have been posted here before. These two massive wax and sealant comparison by a UK detailer have been my standard references. They are old threads but I have not seen any other person doing comparison in such a massive scale.

Biggest sealant test ever
Biggest wax test ever

Water droplets on my daily drive after a heavy downpour. The pictures are taken 2 weeks ago which is 3 months after Autoglym SRP+EGP.

[attachmentid=7233708]
[attachmentid=7233717]

Maybe I cheated a little bit because I use spray wax after every wash but if I recalled correctly, the pictures are taken more than a week since I last wash my DD as it was raining almost everyday back then. See my own comparison of spray wax here.

I have ordered Autoglym Express Wax (5 liters) which is a commercial-packed version of Autoglym Aquawax and waiting for it to arrive. Will post another review then.
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always enjoyed your blog posts.

You are buying too much product btw, I suggest you pass some to me to authenticate your claims rclxms.gif icon_rolleyes.gif muhahahahaha
On the side note, I once tried Perma Glass quick detailer as my weekly topper. I'm certain that it also acts like a spray wax judging from its water beading abilities and slimy texture + viscosity.
I think this is a product that is worth exploring, I applied with damp microfiber and buff with a dry one. Streaks a lot.

douglas_tong
post Aug 6 2016, 02:07 AM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(slk @ Aug 5 2016, 10:16 PM)
Bro, how do you find essence... it is easy to use? used it on soft/hard paint? which pad/machine combo?
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waregem. have to pre-order. waited for a month. but he restock/order from time to time. have to check with him

I only use essence with finishing pad, occasionally with some rids, i polish with polishing pad (lc hd pads - orange/blue). Generally, i still cut with my microfiber pad with different polishing products and finish with essence. Reason being......essence is overly expensive to use as a one step.

QUOTE(red-queen @ Aug 5 2016, 11:10 PM)
msg-ed duragloss malaysia on their fb but no reply. checked on lelong no Duragloss 105 available as well.

any idea where i can get a bottle of duragloss 105?

thanks
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try mad detailer in singapore. a couple of months back i tried msg-ing duragloss malaysia too, no respond. think bite the dust liao.
else you can try with waregem too, he carries a few duragloss product
douglas_tong
post Aug 15 2016, 01:34 PM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(fred131 @ Aug 15 2016, 12:28 PM)
Are the 2 above can remove scratches on interior like near the handbrake plastic area ?
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nope. Unfortunately you can't.
Trying using heatgun instead. It will melt the surface and even it out.
douglas_tong
post Aug 23 2016, 12:04 PM

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anyone tried liquid form of carnauba wax to remove tree sap? For those sap that are still fresh (not over for weeks) it works.

Carnauba wax have natural cleaning abilities + solvent that keeps it liquid (petro distillate) actually have cleaning abilities too..
douglas_tong
post Aug 24 2016, 12:23 AM

MaddDougg
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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 23 2016, 09:38 PM)
How about Tupps polymer wash that printed these?
- pH Neutral
- Polymer Protectants
- Anti-rust Agent
- No SLS
- No Phosphate

No idea on SLS and phosphate, are those related to salt and soda (in chemical term)?
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I think
sls = foaming agent / soda
phosphate = builder / salt
douglas_tong
post Aug 30 2016, 12:14 PM

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QUOTE(RANDHIS @ Aug 30 2016, 08:47 AM)
is it safe to wash and apply wax everyweek, when google found advised to was every 3 months once, i bought those wash mit and special car cloths, but i realize more and more tiny scratches on the pay, scared to send car wash, when i first take car its just been send to car wash, already had 4-5 scratches that was quite visible to the common eye, i did small research on paint, black is hardest to keep clean, but shines out the most when clean. i simply choose black coz i love black, i love darth vader,i love batman, i love the batmobiles.
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Me love batman too, and yes, black is a full time job. You can't be part time dark knight else your armour would look greyish.

Did you use the 2 buckets grit guard method? it reduces swirls induced by washing.

You can apply every other week. When I have free time, i wax it every other week, just to tell myself that i should finish up one bottle before getting a new product to try. So I have been removing and re-wax different brands every now and then.
douglas_tong
post Sep 15 2016, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(JML @ Sep 14 2016, 05:41 PM)
Hi guys after reading through this thread, there are many diff types products out there.
And everyone seem to have their own preference / method.

I have a 4 yrs old white car, and 2 silver methalic (wife & parents)
due to not taking good care of my white car, there are now stain on the bonnet which is difficult to remove. see picture below
there are also water mark on wind screen & windows. although i apply Rain X after wash, the water mark is visible.

What i want to try achieve
1) weekly wash
2) remove stain from the bonnet
3) remove water mark from wind screen (possible?)
4) apply wax / sealant for protection

any suggestions would be great & appreciated.

[attachmentid=7529884]
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Our methods may vary but the fundamentals are of the same. Basically practice 2 bucket with grit guard wash to prevent as little swirls as possible.

Removing stain from the bonnet can be done easily with light polish based on your pic. White car...memang like that. stains and dirts are easily noticeable.

Rainx does not remove watermark. It merely lay a hydrophobic layer to repel water.
You will need to polish it. you can either find a dedicated window polisher (cerium oxide based) or whack with meguairs ultimate compound.

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Sep 15 2016, 11:19 AM

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