Don't think mine is a revised formula.
My Meguiar endurance was about 7 ish years ago maybe lol
The liquid have lost some consistency and is more watery than gel like.

However performance and results so far seemed to have maintained from the latest application, durability unknown for the time being.
Clinging on my hand is still a nightmare to wash off

Somehow it kept slipping my mind for gloves
However I saw Lazada got sell this applicator thingy, RM7 only, maybe worth a shot lol
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.c7cTM

Hahaha guessed a bit and end up actually true.

Yeah Sonax today is just, not worth it anymore.
So now it's like, either I venture deeper in DodoJuice, or just go back to good ole Meguiar/turtle wax XD

after like 10 years, looks like I came full circle lol

i see, so instead of ULW, this time is synthetic x press? awesome results
btw your entire detailing collection only meguiar or you got other brands as well?

When the contents outlast the containers lol

https://s.lazada.com.my/s.c7PCn

RM7 per piece including shipping made in Korea
2 pack is RM10 + RM4 shipping without vouchers (I discounted until only RM5 in total cuz free shipping and -5 discount)

Not bad I guess lol

i see.

yeah agree on meguiar, and as the competition heating up between meguiar and turtle, i am leaning a bit more to meguiar as turtle wax official online platform/presence is really lacking.

well said on the other brands and product varieties and testing. considering good products also only need less, takes very long to finish

can your hand feel the imperfection? i'm afraid the clear coat already compromised maybe need to just respray.

do you know what caused it?

yes rust will spread
only way is to use paint repair packages (like from Ezy auto care, comes with cleaner > base coat > clear coat) for spot repairs, or just respray a whole panel (like an entire bonnet respray)

i think he meant either deal with stone chips or put ppf

however bear in mind, good ppf cost may even be more than a full car paint respray, and ppf does not 100% guarantee stone chips free, bigger stones/faster velocity will still give ppf holes lol

It's not perfect, it does get the job done.

However I generate more stone chips then I could bother repainting, so in the end gave up.
That was my previous 2 cars

My current car generates stone chips even worse as the car too low, whole front bumper like the paint peeled off lol
Only saving grace is aluminum hood, won't rust. But since it's so bad that the roof also chip, I get rust on roof :x

yeah no problem

mainly alcohol content

many lazy man tools

Ok incoming photo spamming after completing one of my project that started on 6 January completed on 16 January

Masking and 2 step polishing done


Today, after 3 step polishing and 3 step post polishing cleansing (IPA)


Lastly 3M clear coat



RM50 For the 3M from official Lazada store, and my existing collection of disposable Sonax polishing cloth, Sonax perfect finish.
10 days mainly spent on procrastination

Thanks for viewing!

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 18 2021, 11:36 AM

Not this one
3M Lazmall no longer offers it as I bought back in September 2020. (Lol until January use)

https://s.lazada.com.my/s.clcLk
(Non 3M official store)

Thanks bro

Truth be told I also phobia wet sanding (even though 3M made it a lot easier with their disc + water application) and maybe that's also what caused most of the procrastination.

In hindsight, it really wasn't that bad
Applying the clear coat was actually more challenging and I fucked up the second headlamp. (Had to re correct and level the clear coat so the durability for that one headlamp is probably compromised)

Thanks bro

Nope first time.
And yes botched a headlamp.

My experiences and tips for anyone who's interested to avoid pitfalls I've encountered:
1)Having a A fine polishing compound, such as Meguiar ultimate polish or PlastX will yield a non hazed finishing.
However 3M didn't advise about it and supposedly, the hazed up (rough/uneven finished surface by the 3000 grit) may promote better clear coat adhesion? Something I'll find out from that one successful headlamp within 1 to 2 years time.

2) During application, having no rain and preferably no wind (especially if dusty environment) is preferable.
It's like car paint clear coat. And dust will ruin it. Hence good car painting does it in sealed environment and very pro ones will wear like hazmat suits lol

3) Some alcohol wipes (or IPA) could come in handy before the clear coat application so better adhesion and maybe better durability

4) drying is only 20-30 minutes and fully cure is within 2 to 3 hours. Advise to let it cure a day (my own paranoia and assumption lol) before driving out.

5) Here's the challenging part: Do not spend more that 5 minutes to apply it
Only a single crossed linked/overlapping coat is enough

6) if it happens to start to dry
Your headlamp is fucked lol

Yeah agreed especially consumer targeted products.
Somemore American 3M
Their consumer power/lawsuits scary

Now having a velcro/drill attachment would make this a ton easier.
I only did it purely by hand, and let's just say few hours (in total actual work) rubbing a small same spot, alternating between both hands, is pretty tiring

As 3M disclaimer and FAQ mentioned, 3000 grit is very safe on thick plastic headlamps much safer than car paint clear coats. Mistakes and errors are also more forgiving and easier/better chance for correction (in the event you screw up)

i'm crossing fingers on my watery headlamp protector (need to shake really hard as there's lumps lol, or when apply, self pressure the lumps as if it is a polishing compound) on providing the protection for as long as possible and hopefully (with re-applications) lasting similarly to the well done headlamp.

reminded me of my proudest project on my late black car

Hence elbow grease
From your feedback, you probably need stronger products

decon first. so iron then clay
however consider putting in a wash in between so your clay don't get potentially degraded from chemicals (or sticking up too much contaminants)

however, you may be using expensive decon or the car is really horribly badly soiled.
for those cases, maybe 1 snow wash rinse up?
or wash (can be just high pressure water spray to get any loose dirt off) > decon > wash > clay

otherwise it's usually decon > wash > clay

decon step such as iron remover is a very valid step more people are adopting and it is also shown on many youtubers doing detailing

yes meguiar AWC should be safe, if you're still worried, do not let it sit too long on your vehicle, agitate is sooner, and rinse off sooner.
and/or
dilute it before application (i personally don't think required).


to be fair, he is asking for decon step which most people don't include or assume it is within the wash step already

On 2, up to you to agitate the paint surface as if normal wash (ideally, not sharing wash mitt with step 4)

For your shampoo, ideally on fresh LSP application you use a non wax shampoo, or IPA before step 7

Compound/polish up to you.
Though having polishing/glazing would make LSP perform better.