The next time you top up the wax try to first apply with circular motion with medium pressure follow by horizontal and vertical motion at very light pressure. You should see the wax applied much more evenly and easier to buff off. Also avoid doing it when paint is hot.

Anyway, do you see the a white shade after 24 hours.?

Use high quality pencil eraser. If stain still there, use dish washing liquid/paste and rub it with applicator.

I don't really like turtle super hard shell paste wax. The kit wax which the user above you are using works better than turtle hard shell. Too much effort (hard to buff off) with very little durability on water beading.

Well if price is your concern or you are adventurous like me love to test new things, China wax is not bad. For less than RM20 you could get something decent. Look for something saying super hard wax. Easily available in brothers. Avoid getting China made all in one wax though.

If you like all in one, a good cheap cleaner wax is polymer sealant from permaglass.

Kit wax is all in one wax if I'm not mistaken, while turtle super hard is pure wax.

Yes very easy to be removed if you get your car wash weekly.

Fusso coat will stay in top of everything.
Try a little test where you leave some visible meta clean stain on the car paint then apply a layer of fusso coat. You will find that you won't be able to remove the meta clean leftover unless the fusso coat is removed by polisher or powder detergent.

Oh I forgot to say fusso coat won't stay in rough surface.

This post has been edited by therain01: Mar 27 2017, 12:42 AM

Use very light abrasiveness cleaner wax would works better than pure wax, for example PG polymer sealant. Lightly buff when necessary.

Wow you guys seems overkill or I'm just being cheap.

I use skil rotary cost about rm150, with 4"and 6"pad from aliexpress. I Use carplan/turtle polish whenever necessary. For maintenance I use Permaglass polymer sealant all in one wax every 1-3 months depending on weather and panel location.

Use warm water to clean the pad if necessary. I normally don't wash the pad for every panel. I have been maintaining the car paint with cleaner wax so 1 pad is normally good for 1 car.

I found that the best way to clean the pad after use is by using laundry powder detergent. I'm not sure how would it damage those expensive poliahing/buffing pad, but for me the detergent does not kill my cheap pad, just yet.

Don't ever try anything abrasive on headlight. Headlight comes with factory UV coating. To remove any mark or stain, use cleaner without cutting ability.

You should only use something abrasive when your headlight has turned yellowish /oxidized. Or you are working on glass headlight, for example wira headlight.

Tail light will be fine, you can apply anything on it. It does not comes with coatings.

If you found swirl mark over the headlight someone might have already mess with it. I would suggest meguiars headlight protectant. It will cover up some very minor defect at the same time protect the headlight from UV. It is UV coating safe. Apply a little of the product and wipe it until almost dry. Don't let it stay dry without keep wiping otherwise cloudiness may form. Apply it once a month. 1 bottle should last you for years to come.

I can't say which wax has better gloss. Basically all wax and sealant gives mirror gloss finish and carnauba wax gives warm gloss finish as long as your paint is well prepared. I would take extra caution when using extremely hydrophobic soft 99 though. Try it on hood to see if it cause white shade under heat.

Please take note I was suggesting headlight protectant and not restorer. Normally restorer is abrasive and use to deal with yellowish headlamp.

Wax tend to stick on paint better than smooth plastic, acrylic, or polycarbonate. And we wouldn't know how effective is the UV inhabit in wax. Guess that's where the headlight protectant comes in.

The headlight's factory UV resistant coating would go away one day due to UV. Guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to protect the protective layer while you could.

BTW, there's no need to protect the tail light. Acrylic does not turn yellow due to UV.

I think you mean repainted panel. Well for me no special care. The paint will not last as good as the factory original paint no matter how you take care of it. I might be wrong though, but it was my experience with many of the repainted car.

I believe if they don't send it for coating maintenance or remove the coating, white paint will eventually covered with dark gray shade which is not remove able from normal wash while black color car will result in light gray shade.

Car coating is one of the most successful con job in my opinion.

You can achieve the same result by using fusso coat 12 months or with some China brand wax name auto care sold in brothers for about rm10.




This post has been edited by therain01: May 21 2017, 12:42 AM

Always apply fusso last.

Use carnauba wax on white paint, single layer 2 layer up to you. Just make sure it is wipe clean and no residual and shade. Surface must be clean and smooth. For some reason, fusso coat like to stays on smooth paint. Wait for hours and make sure not under direct sunlight. At last apply a thin layer or fusso coat lightly, no rub, no machine. Don't leave the fusso coat for too long on the surface or you will have a hard time removing it. 5 mins or less is sufficient.

You now have a durable carnauba effect waxed white car, for at least 3 months for the top, and 6 months for the side.

Well any wax would do indeed but would defeat the purpose.. I'm asking for carnauba wax because it is best to make the white color warmer hence better depth. The only downside with carnauba wax is durability. Applying a layer of fusso 12 on a layer of wax however prolong the effect.

Well you are right. When googling around we will find people advice to have a layer of sealant about twice a year and top up with carnauba wax every 2 weeks or less. Tiring huh?

The properties of fusso 12 months or similar water beading sealant act differently. I found that when they are dry on bare paint, they will still mix well with another Lyer of wax. Means that applying a layer of wax on a dry fusso 12 will remove the fusso effect (fusso is removed by wax I guess).

If applying a layer of fusso or similar on a cured wax, it does not really remove the wax but stays on top of it. You may try by leaving a fine strip of thin visible wax stain on paint, wait until it dry, then apply fusso 12. When fusso is properly cured, you won't be able to remove the wax stain with microfiber. You will need wax cleaner to do the job. I remember clay can't remove it too.

Claying does partially remove fusso layer. It will, however remove all the fusso layer if it is thin or melted. If the paint preparation is good and not dark color, fusso is fine under hot sun. Of course might need or might need not application monthly for the horizontal panel. My experience was it last for more than 3 months on a well prepared paint under hot sun, white paint of course.

As of UV protection, guess n33d explained to you clearly.

Rotary ftw



Attached thumbnail(s)