You need to learn to calm down or you're going to be very unhappy on the internet.

I questioned the method of the tests which favoured products applied higher up on the vehicle which are less affected by rain and roadspray. And as it turns out, less durable products applied on the upper sections lasted longer than more durable products like collinite 476. Car detailing forums including autogeek generally see EGP as a good product not as one of the best in terms of durability.

Well it sounds like a good product if its durability is similar to comparable products like gyeon/reload/fireball especially when the its cheaper those products.
From their main website https://senshacoating.com, the durability is given as 1week.

Among the cheaper car shampoo, only formalhero advertises salt free, soda free and ph-neutral. Salt/soda softens water and increases foam, but is bad because it promotes rust and increases the ph-level. It doesn't foam alot when I used it.

The wash+wax version has polymer protectants, the normal version does not have it. SLS is sodium lauryl sulfate, a common but harsh detergent. Phosphates are water softeners like washing soda but causes green bloom.

Some products combine polish+wax/sealant. Many of the common waxes on the shelves like - Kit/Formula1, permaglass contain abit of abrasives to fix minor defects and have good cleaning ability. Some products are called polishes but have little to zero abrasives - duragloss #105, Zaino Z2.

All in one polish/wax products are very useful for saving time when there is just a little ingrained dirt that needs cleaning.

No, it will probably remove or get mixed up with the Meguiars because of the kerosense like solvent or abrasive cleaners if its in there. The amount of wax in washes is very low anyway. Many waxes have some sort of cleaning/abrasive ability even if they are not advertised as cleaner waxes.

Car wash shampoo waxes offer very little protection. Just wax your car like you normally would and don't worry about losing that tiny speck of Meguiars wax.

This post has been edited by derail: Nov 23 2016, 02:49 PM

Just to follow up on my post #549 about some durability for car waxes/sealants- the method of testing from the detailingworld.co.uk using the horsebox/camper is greatly flawed because the rain will wash more contaminants towards the products applied below the others. So the results will be favour the products on the topmost panels which is where autogylm products were applied and there will be odd results like AIO and weaker products outperforming very durable sealants like the Collinite 476.

https://wetshine.net/2009/08/11/paste-waxse...nt-test-update/
A local detailer ran into the same problem when his test panel got shifted and placed sideways so that the M16 patch was upmost and the products closer to the bottom got the most contaminants.

I forgot to add that my experience with Fireball coat is that it works well and the product lasted until last week where the water sheeting on the hood was completely flat indicating no protective sealant/wax layer, and I think I last applied it sometime in Sept.

I used Ultimate Coat which is different from Easy Coat. Ultimate Coat is a version of Reload/Gyeon cure, and the car is parked outdoors.
The protection was already mostly gone at the end of last month but still showing some sheeting, now the water sheeting is flat on most parts of the hood.

Not quite 2 months since it could be near the end of Sept (I lost my note when my disk failed so I can't find out the exact date) and its for the protection to completely be gone so that the water sheeting is completely flat(after a wash) which occurs . Re-applying every month would work well in my experience since the protection is still good and everything still smooth at that time. Right now, it needs a full clay/polish to remove dirt which has settled i n.

Yes

No haven't used it. Waterspot removers from Gyeon/Carpro/Fireball are expensive because they are work via chemical action and don't rub off the waterspot which might also degrade any coating underneath. I don't bother with waterspot removers because I don't use expensive coatings, I just polish and reapply wax or sealant.

You over applied the product. One car application should use up only ~150ml.

For the price of meguiars wax, you could pick up the fireball coating wax which is a cheaper copy of carpro reload. Spray and wipe silica sealants are quite worth it for the ease of application and not having to clean up buffing cloths and wax applicator sponges.

And I also found that trees can drip sandy water which also cuts down on durability of protectants and it was the cause of the inconsistent results I was seeing. The sand acts as a scouring agent which strip wax/sealants.

You have to follow the instructions for the product. Some products are very easy to buff off and can be applied/buffed in direct sunlight. For Ultimate Polish/Compound products, just buff off right away.

Got a question for you - Did you encounter any issues applying Fusso coat?

I read somewhere that the pro 105/205 products can be more finnicky to work with but contain more abrasives for pros who are used to the product and can finish the job faster.

Do you know if the Collinite 476 wax causes as much water spots as the Fusso coat product?

Interesting, I was wondering about that myself after noticing that even wipe on silica/glass type products (fireball/carpro) seem to spot more than waxes. Wasn't happy about the situation since I now had to clean off spotting that would happen despite weekly washings which would also degrade the glass type sealant/coatings.

After what you said, maybe the easiest/cheapest thing to do is spray on some cheap wax regularly on top of a durable sealant like Fusso.

Yes what I meant to say was something relatively cheap since it is going to be a sacrificial barrier and anything too durable like sio sprays or hybrid ceramic spray waxes are going to end up with spotting.

Minor spotting will be removed during regular weekly washings and I generally don't get spotting issues with sealants like fk1000 but those SIO based coatings and Fusso definitely need another layer on top of them.

I observed more spotting on SiO2 based sealants. And some others have observed more spotting on SiO2 based coatings. The theory sounds very good but observed results are another thing. Maybe some people's driving/parking habits are different which would give rise to different results. In any case, I will work with what I know works in my case.