Sonax BSD is not slippery or smooth compared to the commonly used waxes/sealants like Meguairs, FK, Collinite. It feels tacky by comparison.

No, paste waxes can be used for machines, it just inconvenient because the pad might have to be removed or could be too large to fit the can. Liquid waxes/polishes can be used for hand application.

It doesn't depend on whether the wax is paste/liquid. The term cleaner wax means the wax also has some mild polish in it mainly to remove light amounts of dirt.

Some waxes feel oily and use silicone which could get more dust to stick.

Has anyone tried Gyeon cure (available through Waregem)? Its supposed to be similar to Carpro Reload which isn't available for retail here.
The specs for Gyeon cure's durability(6wks) are about the same as Reload 2013, and Reload had improved versions in 2014, 2015 (12wks).

I found out that with BSD, the flat surfaces collect dirt even if I wash regularly. Water beading isn't the same as protection in BSD's case. BSD was meant as a topper for Sonax coating where it probably works much better and doesn't work for me as a standalone.

I did some searching and found that the Gyeon spray on sealant is similar to reload and is generally well reviewed. Another similar locally available product is Tacystem quartz max (also Korean) https://kalexcardetailing.blogspot.my/
Fireball looks like the newest brand coming out. I wish the TS would compile these names/links to make it easier for people to search/buy products.

From what I read, Carpro has had problem with Korean companies who oem for them ripping off their products and Gyeon is one of them.

I surprised you got anything out of Wankson, he gave me the runaround 2 years ago with no stock excuse, have to wait, not for retail etc.

I doubt Korean companies did any of the RnD, they were just the oem iirc.

Waxing by hand is fine because its not too much work unless you're doing several cars at once.
Cleaning/polishing on the other hand is exhausting and a machine helps.

I'd like some advice on waxing "painted trim" parts on older cars. The trim seems to soak up polish and wax. The wax protection on the trim doesn't seem to last as long as other parts of the car as well.

I can't find the normal cotton pads I used to buy anymore. Is there a local retailer for hand polishing pads like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-foam-hand-applicators.html
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/...or/prod_280.htm
Osren sells Lake country pads but I think they don't do shipping.

How did you apply the scratchx 2.0? Its less abrasive compared to ultimate compound and you shouldn't normally be able to rub through the clearcoat.

Strange. I've used ultimate compound with the yellow applicator pads and it still takes some effort to remove water spots by hand.
This video shows how to remove a scratch using sandpaper, meguiars polishes.

That sounds right since many sealants/waxes that are in some solvent base anyway so its pointless to wipe down with ipa only to apply a product like FK1000 which contains alot of petroleum solvent.

What about sio based sealants like reload/gyeon cure/fireball coat? Do you normally wipe down with ipa after polishing (before applying the lsp)?

And do you know where to get hand polishing pads which I was asking in my earlier post?

Yes pencil hardness is not the same as the mohs scale. Theres a product at Kalex (Keho) which had 'reduced watermark tech'. No idea how good it is.

Theres old threads about coatings like Sierra glow. Never tried it myself because of the high price and waterspotting issue. There might be restrictions on what sort of maintenance you can do post-coating within the warranty period eg no polishing.

There are longer lasting and easier to apply products available locally compared to powerlock.
Duragloss 101/105 is similar to powerlock and is available retail through their local distributor and lelong.
The better products are:
Optiseal (detailien) - spray on, no need to buff off, just as durable.
Gyeon cure (waregem)/Fireball coat (check facebook) are spray on products and silica/glass based so should last longer. Very similar to Carpro reload. I'm testing fireball coat right now.

1 month would be a disappointment unless the seller was giving a more realistic estimate based on local weather + pollution.
The new versions of carpro reload has considerably better durability. I came across reviews which state the new reload has considerably better durability compared to hydro2.
https://youtu.be/YG3SRus2WSQ
https://youtu.be/7aIT2PF3HKM

The official gyeon cure info states that cure (reload/fb coat copy) has only 1/2 the durability of gyeon wetcoat (hydro2 copy) despite having more sio2% but the consumption per application might have something to do with it (30ml for cure vs 100ml for wetcoat)
http://www.gyeonquartz.com/product-guide/q2m-cure

I don't think the big sealant/wax testing was conducted properly. The lower panels take the most beating from road spray and rubbing from people leaning on the bus when its stationary. Its no wonder that collinite 476 was one of the first to fail but the less durable 915 lasted throughout. EGP/SRP is good but its really old and Collinite 476 is well known for being more durable.

Call the Duragloss PJ office number or email.
http://my393732.panpages.my
It used to be sold in Fan Lian Herbs and pasaraya megaherbs.
http://autoworld.com.my/forum/index.php?/t...ck-here/page-17
If they are out of business, maddetailer's website says they are the exclusive distributor for Sing-Indon-Msia.
http://www.maddetailer.com/product-categor...ve-coating.html

Use a tar remover product first since its probably smeared tar that makes the paint look dull. Highly unlikely that the clear coat could come off by using a wet cloth.

F1 wax is not advertised as a durable sealant so its not going to last long. Autoglym EGP is good but its old and outclassed by newer products in terms of durabillity. There was an earlier post to a durability test a few pages back that was flawed (see my earlier post) which overrated EGP above better products.

Collinite 476, FK1000p are good, I think Collinite is probably more durable. An all-on-one durable mild polish/sealant like permaglass which is locally available in Acehardware might work for you too.

Whether its a horsebox or combination horsebox motorhome, all my earlier comments still apply.
I've already commented earlier in the thread that the biggest sealant/wax tests are flawed which affected the results. Its not a coincidence that winners in the tests tend to be the ones near or at the top most sections. Some of the results that I found questionable was Collinite 915, 845 beating out 476, 915 lasting the longest of the Collinite bunch, low carnauba content show car wax (Onyx) lasting longer than durable sealants.

I've never seen that Sensha product before. There doesn't seem to be alot of info on the website. If the product has to be applied every fortnight, it doesn't sound as durable as comparable glass type spray on sealants or its just a watered version.

Ship it from US or buy it locally from waregem.
Collinite 476 and the Megs ultimate liquid/paste wax you are using has no abrasives, so its not going to be any different from what you are doing now.
A polish is still needed to remove defects like swirls. I use a mild polish to remove dirt and old wax/sealants when the old wax is in poor condition although some prefer something milder like a paint cleaner.

If you use something like a cleaner-wax, it is a combination polish-wax so there will be a layer of wax left on top which is not what you want when you use collinite 476. No point applying collinite over a less durable underlying layer unless you like the look of that layering.

I don't use paint cleaner when putting down a fresh layer of wax/sealant when the condition of the old wax is good which is why a long lasting sealant like collinite is good, because you don't have to polish every month, just need to slap on a new layer of wax.