Would applying TIM that is too thick will cause heat problem that should be there?

yes... too thick TIM will cause the heat cant be transfer properly and cause higher temp.. that's why ppl said applying TIM also need skill.. cannot too thick but at the same time thin enough to transfer the heat nicely.

lol..then its going to be a hard job.Then would having TIM that is too thin will cause heat dissapation problem as well?I only knew applying TIM would need special skill as well..lol..I use to just put like one or two drop and stick the HSF right onto it...The easy/lazy way...

how to determine whether it is too thin or too thick? normally i just apply TIM as thin as possible but not until can see the surface of the processor.

i dont think that is called lazy/easy way. it is the recommended way by AS5 website. hehe... but i put some TIM on the processor and used my credit card to make it evenly on the processor and cotton bud to remove excess TIM on the side of the processor.

bro if ur hsfs is mounted properly , then the tim no matter how much u put will be thin wan... neway prem i think that applies to dual cores procs only as most single core procs has the core smackdab in the middle , so different abit loh...

yes irangan thats is coorect , but washing the proc WILL NOT kill ur proc if u do it coreectly.... if u are brave enough to try go ahead....

Yes, the "string" method applies for dual core processors such as Conroe, PressHoT, X2 and FX62.
"Rice" method is for single core and exposed cores.

Anyways, I still don't think getting a credit card to flat the TIM is a good idea. Why not let the heatsink flatout the TIM?

Anyone has a tested and proven tecnique? I don't have a artic clean/cleaning liquid if I do it wrongly , also is handling the HSF with my barehands alrite? Or should i put on a plastic bag over them?

used to it already... last time saw alot of guai low said need to spread the tim on the processor. the best way is used credit card to do it.

Simple method of cleaning up CPU face. A small bowl with a 2 capfull of paint thinner and a cheap artist paint brush. Dip the brush with thinner and carefully brush off the old compound off. Do not use any sharp tool to scrape of stubborn or hardened coumpound. Just brush off repeatedly till its clean. You may double clean the face with another cotton soaked in thinner piece to finish the job. Leave to dry and reinspect if neccessary. Depending on how messy the cpu top face, a few wipes with facial cotton (lightly dipped in solvent) can bring about acceptable results. This method can be used for VGA cards when the Heat sink is swapped or replaced.

hohohoh ... the thread is getting more knowlegable with more method to clean off old TIM.....

is there any way to clean the GPU surrouding area.... sometimes the thermal paste would spill to the area and cleaning would be hassle as there are so many tiny soldering.

i tried with cotton ear pick ... but it is really troublesome and ineffective

Well, that is because when i got myself the fatal1ty cpu cooler, Zalman did give it together with a manual on how to use the TIM.The way they give was kinda type of lazy way where you squeeze the TIM out a lil bit and flatten it with a kinda of cardboard provided.Something that looks like a normal credit card but thinner.Thats been the way i had been doing until now though..lol..

Yes..actually you can use the same method I described earlier with cotton soaked in solvent or brushed down with solvent, depending how messy.I'm only afraid if there's any electrolytic capacitor below the GPU chip, it there is, have to be careful not to allow solvent to drip underneath the capacitor. Nevertheless, after cleaning, leave to dry up for a while before powering it up. SMD chips are ok to be washed in solvent.

Actually there IS a proper PCB cleaning solvent for this kind of job. Its VERY EXPENSIVE!, but the perfect solution in cleaning jobs.

Hey guys!. Since you're all into messing your rig and DIY'ing.. its worth go practice with some old or kaput CPU and graphic card. Practice makes perfect and the stuff don't cost a lot. Sooner or later, more experts here!..good luck!


This post has been edited by bsl555: Dec 17 2006, 11:36 AM

may i know what is the proper way and how to define expensive? hehe..

A small spray can of approved pcb solvent is somewhat Rm20 at some Pasar Rd electronic shops. Spray can chemicals are always assumed as expensive.

Maybe earlier, I used the wrong word "perfect", should be "ideal".
For the industry or commercial use, its sold by the litres or gallons and runs into a few hundred bucks a container. There you have it!..not economical for the casual DIY'er. The small spray can is perhaps next to ideal for the DIY'er. Thinner is low cost, works just as well but with considerable discretion of its use.

I've had experience with those solvents and its wonderful using it after pcb electronic repair, after cleaning, a re-spray of pcb lacquer and no-one can tell its been repaired or tampered..like VIRGIN!...if only..

This post has been edited by bsl555: Dec 17 2006, 03:21 PM

thx for the info.. learned a new thing again..

man the credit card way is a huge common misconcepttion.... if u use ur credit card u introduce trace amounts of imourities that will cause a decrease in performance... best if use the rice or string method as i posted earlier.... lots of guilow is refering to the days when the cores of cpu was very big... maybe the oldschool procs....

Hey guys wht is 'TIM'?

just go buy the set of tim and surface purifier from artic silver..rm25 can last u a life time.....how many time do you take ur proc out to clean..

themal interface material