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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V69, 69 :3

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davidke20
post Dec 4 2015, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Dec 4 2015, 02:40 PM)
cvt light only ma. if no problem, just ignore only la.
u think use 4AT GB is good a? tibai useless FC lagi mau worship 4AT.
itu la u buy proton now menyusahkan u sendiri  whistling.gif
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NMGH VIOS is still 4AT ok vmad.gif
davidke20
post Dec 4 2015, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(wkc @ Dec 4 2015, 03:01 PM)
Hi guys, any recommendation for 13" tyre for saga fl?
Currently using stock tyre. Plan to change to Yoko or Michelin.
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Achilles Platinum 7 wub.gif

user posted image

http://www.achillesradial.com/tire/passenger/5/Platinum-7
davidke20
post Dec 4 2015, 04:52 PM

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QUOTE(JamesBotak @ Dec 4 2015, 04:04 PM)
Lucky you. Your CVT light never lit up before at all ?
That's very true bro. All TCU ECU U U U reset also eventually it will come back. I've just gone through it.

For point no 1, i strongly agree it helps. I agree as i have tried to do the same thing many times already and it works. The CVT light will go off and this in turns directly relates to point no 2. I believe the SAT button is the culprit if else why pressing it on and off gets the light to go off. It's like the SAT button is stucked in the middle between ON and OFF and this is causing the CVT light turn on.

Somehow i believe the SAT button is the one that's causing all the problem. I have heard some people who managed to get their SAT button replaced has managed to get their CVT issue resolved as well.

Now i wonder have anyone tried to remove their SAT button on their own? If there is, I sure would like to remove it as i feel it doesn't benefit anything at all.

Actually I want to remove it on my own but I don't know how to do it and whether there would be any effect (but i don't think there would be other than i won't have the SAT functionality anymore, which i don't care at all as long as it solves the problem).

I also don't care warranty void if i remove the SAT button as i already service my car outside.

What's the point of having warranty when light comes up you send SC also they don't know what else to do other than clearing the fault codes.

I believe our engine have very very less problem and if taken care well, should not have any issues even after 5 years.

Just my 2 cents tho...  icon_rolleyes.gif
From now on, i will learn to ignore it.

Well i still personally feel the 4AT gaga is nice. This is what i feel la. And if i was given a choice, I would go for the 4AT instead of this CVT that's manufactured by Punch. I guess a different CVT manufacturer would be better.
Vios =  wub.gif
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Kon9lan7fem belt position sensor wonky yawn.gif Now, what left is how you convince SC to open up your gebox and get the sensor replaced liao.

Alternatively, pray harder after oil change the sensor sendiri cure by itself with cleaner oil

OR, the car went totolos before it fully losses its value nod.gif
davidke20
post Dec 4 2015, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(JamesBotak @ Dec 4 2015, 07:50 PM)
Seriously you are very lucky...  blush.gif
Undeniable. Trust me, I love my Kancil 850 injection with the 3 speed AT damn much. I been driving the car for the past 5 years and it has been excellent. I always redline, i mean very frequently redline, like 1st gear until 6.5k rpm (max can push), second gear same and third gear until 7K rpm (speed is 150km/h) can go faster but already on redline so don't want to push further sebab kesian my baby kancil. Even with so harsh driving, gearbox and engine NEVER had any issues. I change gear oil every 40K KM. Change eng oil every 10K (fully synthetic) and it's still rocking and in fact BETTER than my 5 months old gaga. Duhhhh...

Only if i can convert my kancil to a sedan...
Mind explaining how do you know and confirm it is the belt position wonky? Any facts to support your claim?

I have an ODBII scanner and Ive been checking each time the CVT light comes up. From the fault codes, it doesn't look like it's the belt position sensor that's wonky.

It will be helpful if you have any facts or maybe your own experience that you can share to support your claim that's it's the belt position sensor that's wonky.

FYI: Ive also emailed Punch regarding this and according to them, from the fault codes that I gave them, they said that it's more to wiring issue that's causing the CVT light to come up. This again directly relates to the SAT button.

icon_rolleyes.gif
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What does your OBD saids? What sort of OBD reader are you using? The blutut taip or a full scale display scanner?

CVT belt changes it's speed depending very much on the load feedback from the drive shaft. That however, to decide what RATIO be making the ride at optimum, belt position sensor play an important role. Being said the car as a continuous variable transmission, meaning the belt sensor has to work ALL TIME to keep the ratio at optimum. The only time it doesn't require the belt position sensor to decide what ratio to be in, is looking back at the speed and reposition the belt at which particular VIRTUAL SPEED RATIO position, which means when you switch it to SAT it will reset the belt position sensor and shut it down for a while. This is only my side of the theory, I can't prove it. So, it will be better if you can put your car running on SAT for a longer period like a tank or 2 worth of petrol to see whether the CVT check light came up.

The last I own a Wajunk 4AT, it bites. Then, a Wigra 1.6XLi, again it bites. Not to mentioned, I collected a Perdana V6 auto, I had to modify it to manual before I can sell it. An opportunity allows me to buy an ultra cheap Wigra 1.5 3AT, it works pretty fine but the annoying high RPM drove me nuts when travelling long distance. The town driving FC for that piece of iron is astonishingly insane, probably cost more then driving batmobil.

For a short period of time, when my mate went oversea wanted me to take care of his P42 4AT for 2 weeks, since then I fell in lurv with VIOS wub.gif
davidke20
post Dec 5 2015, 11:54 AM

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After our highly respective Ms.Chin visited the TV show, all of a sudden everywhere around the world popped up with hawt female drivers. The irony is, this is a rally car driver, but in a skyline G35 auto tranny yawn.gif wtf max shakehead.gif

Specially dedicated to iskazulka the hamsap gold fish unker
davidke20
post Dec 5 2015, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(JamesBotak @ Dec 5 2015, 04:04 PM)
I'm using the buntut type. The fault codes are real as it's confirmed by Punch themselves and the fault codes I get using this buntut type is the same as the PADT Proton uses.

Now your point seems valid and logical. If it's true that the CVT belt is wonky, then yeah by pressing SAT button it would reset the belt position sensor and would explain why the CVT light goes off. But over prolonged period of time if this is not repaired, would not this cause a serious problem to the CVT gearbox?

They are quite a no of gaga CVT owner (on FB group which im following) who said they have the same issue and some have been driving for the past 2 - 3 years with the CVT light ON and OFF and still don't have any issues.
info@punchpowertrain.com

It went to the Belgium HQ and then they forward the email to our local HQ in Shah Alam. From there they got in touch with me. You can email them if you want to.
This increases my doubt on the SAT button. Could it be the culprit to all the CVT issues...  hmm.gif
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Ask your mates with similar CVT check lite issue do the same test, have their SAT kicked in all time for the next 2 weeks and see how often does the check lite came up? If none at all, probably proves the belt position sensor kacau.

Belt position sensor does not really kill your car, but it does jeopardize some performance if not being calibrate carefully. Technically, if Plotong got a built in secondary fail safe routine in the TCU, by right your car can run even without/damaged belt position sensor.
davidke20
post Dec 8 2015, 03:11 PM

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TS V12kompressor. Mohon include information on 1st page new car checklist.

I have just came to an unfortunate incident from a client, and my company wouldn't pay the claim on the accident. Please reconfirm several things before collect car and sign off the collection contract.

1) Chassis number indicate in the registration card
2) Chassis number indicate on the door ID plate
3) Chassis number indicate on the middle structure beam under driver seat
4) Engine number indicate in the registration card
5) Engine number indicate on the door ID plate
6) Physical imprint engine number on engine block

I don't remember whether our Saga the door ID plate located at bottom of B pillar has engine/chassis number imprinted. If not applicable, please remove from this list. The reason I brought this up was, I just had a big headache when the insurance company refused to pay the claim. According to the investigator report, the only thing the car matches the registration card was the plate number and engine number. The chassis number on the car chassis does not match with registration card. The door plate also not match, worst is its different then the actual chassis number imprinted on the car body. I don't know how this happen. It's not a Proton, but I'd like to address this issue so everyone will take note.
davidke20
post Dec 8 2015, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 8 2015, 04:00 PM)
Actually those are pre-delivery SOP by SAs before handing over the keys to owner.
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The thing is, it happened now. After the owner collected his "NEW" car 7 years ago, first time met an accident and found out shit hits the fan. Just a suggestion, owner should also check it by themself properly. Wouldn't know whether the SA/the francise/dealer have a leg on this? Could the car be a theft loss car from other country? How do they get the registration card up? No 1 knows. Ask me, I have never really read that much of detail other then the engine number and physical chassis number.
davidke20
post Dec 9 2015, 07:16 AM

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QUOTE(Aquariusdenz @ Dec 8 2015, 08:50 PM)
If the engine RPM difference not so much from D to L mode, theoretically it shouldn't be any problem right? Overtaking cars on D mode is enough, but sometime really need instant power overtaking on this Borneo single lane "highway".  biggrin.gif Whereas SAT mode actually deliver faster response because the transmission no need to search for the suitable ratio all the time, it just need to choose to downshift one or 2 or more programmed gear ratio. But the single "gear" is "running out too fast". Means that when i want to overtake, it downshift 2 gears, but as the car accelerates, the rpm reach red line very fast but I still not yet finish my overtake, so it need to upshift while overtake, which delays some time.  hmm.gif
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Disagree on SAT deliver faster response whistling.gif Put your car side by side with another FLX do the test. SAT may have a train wreck feeling when hitting the gas pedal that simulate by a giant shift shock. However, the actual simulation of shiftshock and torque converter smoothness emulation would take up much more time then when you're in D mode.

Being known as a CVT, the transmission does not need to SEARCH for a best ratio. When you hit the gas pedal on, it simply goes max torque ranged RPM (4~6krpm) and off you go! The only reason you don't get the "RESPONSE" feeling is because you don't have the idiotic hit by a train normal AT characters.
davidke20
post Dec 9 2015, 07:20 AM

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QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Dec 8 2015, 09:43 PM)
i was trying to find back in previous thread but cant find; how did u disable the aifm actuator/switch in the intake yea?
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Go find Abam Fendi whistling.gif I also dunno how to use the search fucktion in LYN anymore. I think funker iskazulka more familiar with the search fucktion, may be can find you Abam Fendi's contact. Labor if not mistaken RM20 while the epoxy RM30 or so. Can't remember liao.
davidke20
post Dec 9 2015, 07:33 AM

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QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 8 2015, 11:16 PM)
i see. i thought 15" can give better comfort... then i will skip this part... if stock spring 195/55 also will sagat the fender ?
Just lost my car key... went to ask two locksmith nearby both of them quote me RM180 and RM250 for the car key duplicate with chips... anyone can recommend me cheaper alternative ?
How about stiff ring and bar ? izzit front strut bar and anti roll bar is more than enuff ?
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195/50R15 WILL sagat sometimes. 195/55R15 kon9lan7fem sagat siut. Scratch until your tayar burst in to flame. Unless you change to taxi spring.

Strut bar basically can't be feel at all. However, it provide certain degree of safety. Give an take, it may also make more damage to the car in the event of road accident. Anti roll bar will make your rear end even more stiffer. I don't see how STIFF will relate to COMFORT.

The keys is about that price.

QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 8 2015, 11:19 PM)
current 14" i thought change wider rim can get better comfort... erictioh is not replying my request for quotation....
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Go 175/65R14 Mybi saiz, the best comfortable size I've ever use. Wider does not give comfort. Thicker, yes.

No reply? Call him then. If lansi? Ask him sek si go outside buy.

QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 8 2015, 11:20 PM)
guys.... how about stiff ring ??? is it worth and can it improve comfort of the car ? im more concern about the comfort>handling of the car.... any other things that i can add in to improve the comfort of the car ?
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Stiff ring is a collar that placed at the lower control arms before bolt on the nuts. Reason for doing that is to eliminate as much free space as possible, so your steering feedback become more DIRECT. Again, has nothing to do with comfort AT ALL.

More comfort setups? Go find a set of BLM rear spring, probably cost you less then RM50. It makes your rear end feels like RolceRoyce yo! No it does not jeopardize the handling at all. Only drawback is, the car look butt sag like any other BLM you seen on the road.
davidke20
post Dec 10 2015, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 9 2015, 12:31 PM)
Can i put it in another way.. install bar will reduce passenger body roll then will increase the car comfort ? Same as thr stiff ring if it can reduce the bumpiness of the car then also can improve the passenger comfort.. just my 2cents. Install vs and grounding cable can reduce the jerking of the car then can improve the comfort ?
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No you can't put it that way. Strut tower bar does ABSOFUCKINGLUTELY nothing to reduce body roll AT ALL. The only FEELING for the driver to felt is, slight improvement on steering feedback because any point of time if your spring compresses at 1 side of the front, the other side of the strut will depress(provided if you drive extremely fast at high speed corner and you literally know the car like the back of your hand). Otherwise, can't be felt AT ALL.

By saying reduce body roll from anti roll bar, no it DOES NOT reduce the body roll. However, the real deal you'll have to further study how an actual sway bar works. It will transfer radial force from the outter tire into the inner tire when attacking corner at high speed, in to lateral force. To say comfort, your passenger will now get the feeling of butt sliding. If you're taking a high speed right corner, your rear right passenger will butt drift and towards the middle/left passenger and hit them nicely. Comfort? Yes if the middle/left passenger is a cik with a sizable pair of boobs tangling around.

Stiff ring will only effect the steering control, because it reduces the lower arm flexibility. To thoroughly feel it, as a passenger will feel more butt vibration. Comfort wise? If your passenger enjoy vibrator, probably the answer is yes. In general, NO it does not provide any additional comfort to the car at ANY point of view. And NO, stiffring reduce no bumpiness of the car at ANY POINT OF TIME.

Grounding and voltage stabilizers installation, yes it may translate that way as you mentioned. It does reduce certain amount of jerks when aircon kicks in. However, lately figured out the major power draw monster was not the aircon compressor, it was the bloody radiator fan. If you want an absolute smooth electric current delivery, make sure you ground the bloody radiator fan kao kao and hook another extremely high/fast discharge voltage stabilizer AT the freakin radiator fan.

No worries about your 2 cents. I give you 5 cents just to make it up for accounting purpose, if you do not know government abolished all our 1 sen flexibility.

QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 9 2015, 12:32 PM)
Can i install myvi size tyre in our ori 14" rims ? Dun shoot me if i ask stupid question...
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Yes you can

QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 9 2015, 03:43 PM)
Perhaps maybe less bodyroll, less bumpiness, less jerking ?
Thats the thing that might affect the comfort of the car. Just my 2cents. Because currently i feel the car is quite bumpy, bodyroll when cornering and the jerking is quite annoying
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Having an anti roll bar, you'll be reducing the rear end flexibility. Your left wheel radial movement will now be TRANSFER to right wheel. So, if you hit a pot hole with your left wheel, your RIGHT passenger will feel buttseck kinda sensation together with your LEFT passenger. Vehicle bumpiness has got very much to do with the spring and damper. Do you know why damper is also called as ABSORBER in layman term? Because that's the freakin thing that help to ABSORB bumps. Not a bloody bar. If you do not know, having anti roll bar at the back of your GaGa, it will also increase JUMPS/HOPPING situations during tight corners due to reduced flexibility, this known as TAIL HAPPY in general fast & furious term. So, tell me, how does a car that hopping around makes your passenger happy? Other then the term TAIL HAPPY?

Get a set of BLM/FL rear spring for the car and set them up if you wish to reduce bumps. If budget allowed, change the damper to full set MONROE SENSATRAC. Installing bar will NOT bring you any extra comfortness. Go ahead and digest what you read from me. Other then sohigh TitanRev, I guess ayam the 2nd most barred GaGa in the cuntry.

To counter bodyroll, drive slower. FLX has a harder spring setup then FL/BLM. From what I see on your replies, you seemed already made up your mind to buy bars regardless what kinda input you get from others. So, please go ahead and use your imagination to BUTT dyno your comfortness after installation of bars. I'm sure you FEEL the opposite of what I told you because you already have the perception of reduce bodyroll = comfort.

Again, 2cents usually a round up figure. This time I offer you another 45sen. Plus the 5sen I offered you earlier, you're not 50cents richer. Cheers

QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Dec 9 2015, 04:06 PM)
okay thank youu. he will remember you right? haha
iskazulka thank you very much!
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Say Sawi Merah Buruk, budak cina kerja AmBank. He'll remember me that way. He's doing for BLM taxi almost everyday, so he's the expert in disabling IAFM. On the side note, please proceed earlier. If you're lucky, he may be able to help you disable HALF the IAFM function before the whole thing broke off from the valve. Cheaper somemore and your IAFM will last you long long nod.gif
davidke20
post Dec 10 2015, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Dec 10 2015, 07:43 AM)
Thanks for your value input.. already digest all ur info... decide not to invest on bar and stiff ring otherwise will feel regret when didnt get the result that i expected. Will focus on vs and gc as i wanna reduce the car jerking.. cheers.
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Consider save some money for MONROE dampening product. Those dual dampening material mixture is real hardcore ultimate driving experience. Don't expect it to last long though as I usually heard those dampers will last less then 3 years(from what I saw those moron has been abusing those dampers in crazy driving environment, such as autocross/race track/off road rally). I personally had it on a Wira aeroback for more then 3 years, until car sold still extremely comfortable. Partly because my kind of road usage was not as hardcore as other people. The worst case scenario was Genteng Sampah.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2009/11/p...ac-and-max-air/

It is still worthy to install the front strut and rear bars, for safety purpose. Theoretically, the amount of harshness produced by strut bars are negligible as your passenger does not ride your car on a regular basis as much as you do. Moreover, these chassis rigidity improvement will increase your DRIVING sensation if you "listen" to your steering feedback.
davidke20
post Dec 10 2015, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Dec 10 2015, 03:13 PM)
you changed already eh? how much damage on your wallet?
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FC manyak bagui shocking.gif
davidke20
post Dec 14 2015, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(wankel @ Dec 14 2015, 10:29 AM)
It'll pay to keep an eye on the door switches for the interior lamp, the designer made the contacts about 0.5 mm undersized for reliable contact. If the door switch doesn't close within 30 seconds of using the unlock on the key then the alarm is triggered. I did show a solution here that I made for the issue but in hindsight the solution may be a lot simpler perhaps just filing a tad off the insulator that the contact arrow screws into, but it is something that should be looked into and I'd hope that Proton has modified and superseded the part.
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The "feature" has been there since 2003 nod.gif So, Plotong said we don't fix something that's not broken, just like Toyolda still using the same engine since 2004 VIOS icon_idea.gif
davidke20
post Dec 14 2015, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(TechnoG @ Dec 14 2015, 04:23 PM)
guys my saga is dead I think  cry.gif

this afternoon when I want to go out the car cannot start at all, check engine light and the battery light is on
car can crank but cannot start haih

tried jump starting the car but doesn't seem to work at all, the car is only 10 months old don't think the battery is dead. Could it be the starter?
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CVT? I thought here just had a hot discussion over the past week regarding CVT can't be jump start or may fry a TCU whistling.gif
davidke20
post Dec 14 2015, 10:12 PM

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QUOTE(TechnoG @ Dec 14 2015, 07:10 PM)
Nope, manual tranny. Funny, the car can crank like it's choking but just cannot start..then I keep holding the crank and it finally started, rev until 3k the engine died again

anyway, contacted the proton i care line and they towed my car to the nearest SC.  sad.gif
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did u pam diesel inside? whistling.gif anyway, think throttle position sensor misaligned nia. small matter. Otherwise, could be crank sensor, that 1 more major.
davidke20
post Dec 14 2015, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Dec 14 2015, 09:21 PM)
the iafm valve is the circular shape part near the alternator there right?
will try and get it done soon.
on another viewpoint, saga flx iafm and preve iafm is it 100% identical?
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same
davidke20
post Dec 15 2015, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(TechnoG @ Dec 15 2015, 10:01 AM)
Sent the car to SC already,  problem is with the spark plug. Only 8k km on the odo and need change already sad.gif rm 56 somemore haih
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Ini kon9lan7fem kena conned liao whistling.gif
davidke20
post Dec 15 2015, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(TechnoG @ Dec 15 2015, 10:54 AM)
WHYYY  cry.gif
but it seems to work, my car can start up properly without much problem now so..
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Change sparkplug or not, your car will work fine. I live with that headbanging long WUEKEKKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEKEK start car issue until 80k km baru change sepak berak yawn.gif

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