Now, the best thing to do is to go back to the shop and check what oil did they used. Snap a pic of the oil. Also if you still have the receipt, snap a pic of it and upload it here.

You are lucky if they did use the same exact fluid that Proton uses. If not, you've got the ball rolling for the damage of your CVT.

If they had use a different fluid, QUICKLY go to the nearest SC to change the fluid and filter altogether. IF possible, flushing is advisable. You should ask and discuss with Proton SC is they got flushing for CVT fluid for those like your case.

It might costs slightly extra, but it will save you a bomb to change your CVT gearbox.

And let's just hope the damage done to your CVT gearbox is minimal and won't cause any issues...





If dia change fluid saja, I just hope it's the right CVT fluid and not ATF or any other fluid.

AFAIK, it's kinda hard to get the original CVT fluid that Proton uses at 3rd party shops.

Those who want to service CVT oil outside should buy the CVT oil and filter from Proton and have outside shop to change it for you to save on the labour charge but this is not advisable as it's still much much better to let Proton SC handle the CVT.

But again, after changing CVT fluid, need to do CVT adaptation (but AFAIK if don't do also it won't cause any damage to the CVT, only less smooth), which I think only a few outside shop knows how to do it. The shop pulak may sound like they really know how to do but actually they don't.


It could be as the amount RM284 may have include quite a no of things changed...

I'm jealous now !!!!

Hahahahahaha...

As some mentioned previously, how long the battery can lasts depends on luck.

I don't know whether driving everyday or long distance would make the battery lasts longer but what I've found is somehow this ramcar (stock) battery can last quite long.

This is based on what I've been reading about this battery on FB saga club.

And his is definitely very long indeed...

I'm jelly... I hope mine will last as long as his as well...

Seriously 4 years is considered long and that's good...

I loike this !

Since got warranty so we should claim each and every fault part...

But you are very lucky...

I also want...

This is the main reason why they are poor

Some of them baru grad earning 2.5k paying for car almost 1k how to survive la

If pay for house 1k it's good as it's investment but car is liability

Hmmm maybe the CVT don't like Silverstone tyre. Maybe I should change tyre as well...

Honda EX5

Do you have the pic of the relay ? Is the relay located under the dash, driver side near the obd port ?

I was reading on FB few days ago and the mentioned that same thing. Fuel pump relay.

They said it's either the relay is faulty or the wiring is loose.

Wow. That's a lot of ice build up. Maybe there is sumbat somewhere in the ac pipes ?

You should. I did vacuum mine and turned out the SAT light has never turn on since. It's confirmed the SAT button is the culprit in 90% of the cases where the light turn on. But, please be aware that it could also mean some serious issue with your CVT if the light turns on. Please head over to the nearest SC if the light turns on AND your CVT operates differently (meaning maybe suddenly it jerks as it never did before, or your rpm revs higher than normal or your clutch slips more than usual or whatever that's not as usual... I mean you should know how your car is if you drive it everyday). But if the light turns on, and your CVT operates as usual, try pressing the SAT button on and off hard (99% of the time this works). If this works, then it's obvious it's the SAT button. FB groups have shared MANY MANY cases of the SAT button failing thus causing the CVT light to turn on. Also if your car is under warranty, go to your nearest SC and tell them you need replacement for the SAT button unit. Proton somehow has acknowledged this (not officially) and have changed quite a no of SAT units for their customer.


Btw, the link brought me to the same forum board as well. I guess my phone is TAHI phone as well. We are in the same boat bro. I feel you...

This post has been edited by JamesBotak: Mar 14 2016, 11:35 AM

Nop. Never bothered to replace. They take their own grandmother sweet time to replace. I don't have such time to waste with them.

Btw, if you really wanna get a replacement for your SAT button, then you need to be a bit rude to them. I'm aint teaching you this tho but it's the reality of Proton SC.

You need to make noise when you go SC. Tell them many of your friends have managed to get replacement and bla bla bla bla... then... the magic happens... suddenly they'll tell you, they'll replace immediately or they'll order it for you.

If else, you go there and tell them nicely, each and every time they'll tell you they have reset it and there's no problem and bla bla bla bla...

They have somehow acknoeledge the issue but I don't think it's official. So there you go... they'll replace the SAT button unit with a new unit (I'm not sure whether the new unit is a better unit but I haven't heard or seen anyone who have changed theirs complaining of the same issue anymore).

I'm too lazy to go SC to change...

The button longgar like lifeless didi that's why it went from D to S for a while.

Btw, I whacked my SAT button hard enough, and since then it never had any issues...

Same with mine. But mine only happens with the rear passenger door (driver side).

If unlock car, then open that door, while putting things all, the car thinks no doors has been opened, it locks it selfs automatically.

The irony is, right after the car locks automatically, the spring kicks out and there goes the alarm. LOL

Welcome to the club azmie1289

I don't get your point. It's either you haven't drove FLX CVT before or the L gear in your car acts differently.

The L gear itself will provide continuous lower gear ratio which = higher engine rev/ rpm.

So please define what makes you say it's "No use one".

I have used both D and L to go down Genting before and it's proven in L it's 99% engine braking. In fact, I dare say in L your car will be going down the hill too slow till you'll need to accelerate a bit. Even when you accelerate, after you let go of the pedal, it's gonna get real slow again. From my experience using L, I used very very less brakes. In between the corners, you'll get short straight road, I used to accelerate on that straight stretch a bit and before the corner let go of the pedal and take the corner without any brakes as the car is already very slow.

Meanwhile in D, you'll have engine braking, but not as much as in L. Why ? Because when you step on your accelerator pedal, the engine braking automatically cancels so that you'll go faster. You'll then need to step on your brakes to slow down and sometimes that car will put itself in engine braking mode and sometimes not.

So again, I don't see where in L, "engine braking cut off very fast and car will be left rolling in neutral" ?

I'll say for CVT, it's best to use L to go up and down Genting. I have also tried L going up and down Cameron Highlands.

Why use L to go up ? Because it's always in the higher revs and that's where our engine is good at.

This is just my 1 cent...

Could there be any chance that our TCU has different software version or something ?

Because I'm driving a 2015 FLX SV and it's totally different from yours...

Summoning CannyCool

Sorry king

Why not silverstone?