Apa ni....

It's a good investment....good for it

normal car saja...

Hahahahaha...I mmg slow in track compare to R35 and FD2R...FB ada video banyak mah

I'm using ProRS. but to me downhill is gentle.... I go genting previously with stock brake pads and rotor didn't experience fading. Best is to use engine braking and brake together so you won't cook the brakes.

For my MT FLX the peak WHP at 4th gear peaks out at 6250RPM and there after the power starts to reduce. 3rd gear pull is also at similar RPM so I usually shift at that RPM and be quick with your gear change so that you don't let the RPM drop under 4K then you can feel the car surging forward.

Brake until brake fluid boil is very very geng already I will kneel down on floor and pray that fellow like god....I only cook my brake rotors 1st before the brake fluid would boil like boiling water...


and for those wondering how our saga oil temp will do in sepang full track...no oil cooler install....

can't find a more suitable place than that...

Hahaha it's a stock car only not killer....

I think can coz the door pillar and door also same

I'm now on RS500. Less dust, braking feel is very similar to stock pads but bites stronger so have to adjust a bit on my braking.

About 4-5 laps.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Apr 25 2016, 01:00 PM

This stuck issue can be solved in 2 ways.

1. If you pull the plug coil and the bottom part get stuck inside. You can spray some silicone grease into the middle hole. Spray bit by bit then use a long nose plier, grip it on stuck part then slowly try to make the bottom part turn and with slight pulling action. This will make the stuck part pop out.

2. TO solve this problem over long term, you need to drilled the hole that plug onto the spark plug bigger. Just a bit bigger hole so that the spark plug can get in and out of the rubber boot easily. I forgot what drill bit to use but you can measure the diameter of the hole on the rubber boot and get the drill bit. Since it's rubber when drill time use slow speed.

Before that I always thought is the top rubber that stuck at the spark plug metal tube then initially i put high temp brake grease at the top part but still it got stuck so I turn my attention to the bottom rubber boot. I've posted this issue before and how I solved it.

Hope it helps. if you still need help I will be willing to draw some pictures to describe.

This 1 is 1st time break. I experience 2 times breaking the coil. It's at the 2nd time broken that the idea of spraying silicone grease into the bottom part that help me able to remove the stuck part.

Thanks for the compliment.

I mana ada feed penguin...Langkawi got penguin ah?then can bring my kids go Langkawi instead of Japan to see penguin.

Yes can use just the bottom part have more free play and might not sit properly center to the spark plug. Don't worry Campro coil plug is 2 separate parts actually which is a good one. Earlier batch of the coil top coil n bottom was not glued together but later time they were glued together somehow maybe proton knows the problem but use the not so effective way to tackle the problem.

OK a more detail about the coil plug getting stuck.
On the left is the bottom part of the coil body from our campro. On the right is a COP from Mitsubis 4G. Our spark plug fits the Mitsu COP without issue.


This is the rubber boot that get plugged to the spark plug and is the thing causing the stuck issue. Overtime the rubber boot grips the spark plug ceramic body very tightly due to heat and even at new the hole clearance is very little with the spark plug. What you can do is just enlarge this rubber boot hole then test fit the spark plug until you feel it is easy ti put the spark plug in and pull out without much force.


Top part of the coil body. Campro top and bottom can separate so don't worry if the top part break away from the bottom part. Nothing is damage.



Sometimes, our Campro COP have different type of center spring. Some with a aluminium center body.


Another way to reuse the top coil body is to change the broken bottom part with TM Works Ignite Revs parts. If you have the budget.


TM Works Ignite Revs comes in a set of 4 to replace the bottom body. The spring inside is bigger and more conductive. It also uses 2 springs to improve conductivity. I bought this in Japan.


Comparison of Mitsu 4G COP with Campro COP with TM WORKS Ignite Rev body


Hope the info helps.

Unfortunately no. Spare parts shop will sell the whole unit instead. Actually no need any special tools to remove the COP only normal tools, like long nose plier, spanar, box socket, screw drivers.

Injector cleaning needs to be done with ultra sonic device so you need to do it at a workshop.

If the core itself aka cooler itself is leaking u need to change the whole cooler. For dirt it can be clean away with a wash

80-100 IiNM

I prefer not to have all those things....because after spoil then people complain why this spare parts expensive and then blame quality of parts not good. And with more accessories you have more stuff to worry about.

because Proton know got traction control or not driver here still likes to bang trees, lamp post, guard rail, fly up trees..etc..Hahahaha

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jul 20 2016, 12:13 PM

I don't think is fuel tank issue because I've remove my fuel pump assembly and entire fuel tank before. Mostly due to dirt in fuel that causes this. Accumulated dirt. Also our fuel pump assembly before going into fuel pump got a round filter also. When I change my fuel pump I saw an insect inside the canister already dead before going into the fuel pump.

The black colour must likely due to accumulated dirt from the petrol itself. Maybe that time the batch of fuel that time has more impurities. I'm just guessing coz my fuel filter changed at 60k was not as dirty as yours still transparent just darker colour

Coz fuel is external stuff that goes into our car and we pump at different stations and at different time so we can't be sure all the fuel quality is same at all station including cleaness. Like how some station ppl find got water inside. Also come to think of it if car manufacturers think fuel is always clean they also won't put a fuel filter in the 1st place so I believe car manufacturer have taken the possibility in mind hence we have things like fuel filter, oil filter and air filter. Coz If u see how petrol station they measure they underground tank balance they open up the floor cover sure during that time will have stuff or dirt fall inside.

So far so good for me no issue