mind to share roughly how much is the insuflex thingy? might want to buy it

Nice work, engine bay also you put...

nice work there,bro!btw, how u put those insuflex at the engine bay??for my car,very hard ma...even plotong s/c don't wat to help wif it.haha...

i got it from syarikat perniagaan acr sdn. bhd.

they are at 97, jalan 20/7, paramount garden, 46300 petaling jaya
u can give them a call
0378740254
78740258
78769521

so far these guys are the most reasonable price wise

the 1/4inch sheet (4feet by 5feet) was 10.50 a piece
for the 3/8inch sheet i paid rm143 for 1 roll (30feet by i think 4feet)

30 feet can do about 1.5 cars or thereabouts

correction about the glue price...i said it was 10bucks a tin
i actually got it for 14 a tin
hehe
sory
my bad

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Added on October 7, 2007, 12:33 pmplotong s/c?
wazat?


for the engine firewall u have to unbolt everything thats attached to it
then just let everything hang there
(i didnt take out the brake servo coz that was messy...so i worked around it)
everything else i unscrewed
then once the firewall is clear,...then can start to trace the shape

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Added on October 7, 2007, 12:43 pmabout the tar roofing compound, u cant use it in a car
there are special tar strips made for cars (which i tot u were talking about jusnow hehe)
the roofing compound melts in the heat
if u use it in the door panels or roof...or anywhere where gravity plays a roll...when it gets hot, the tar will soften n it will slowly detach from the door panel after a while
the proper tar strips can be gotten from the factory in nilai
its about 400bucks a box of 20 pieces
that can do 3 iswaras (4 doors each)...with some small pieces leftover

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 8 2007, 12:54 AM

If I can buy the tar strips from you can?

I used the tar strips under the bonnet too underneath the stock soundproof pad...it doesn't drop I think should be OK...try to get the tar strips for roofing purpose made in USA..difference not much compare to cheaper strips..

Thanks A LOT for the contact...that's damn cheap!! Insuflex or superlon?

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Added on October 7, 2007, 4:30 pmDo you think they want to help you out of nothing? Give them cigarettes or drinks la funny if you ask an authorised sc to do this kind of stuff..there should be some plastic clips to be removed to take out the stock padding under the bonnet.

This post has been edited by hypermount: Oct 7 2007, 04:30 PM

sory bro
i finished up the tar strips d
did my dad's, my bro's n my car
ngam ngam
i'll try to dig up the contact for you
not sure who is holding the recipt

the contact i gave is for selling the insuflex
dont worry
its lasts
as mentioned...my dad's car almost 10years n its still flexible
granted,...its not like brand new lar (the engine bay wan)
but then its not crumbling or anything
u can still like rub it or knock it n all n it will be fine
just can feel that the surface has become abit harder
i think its coz if all the dirt its exposed to in the engine bay
coz the one in the booth still not prob
nice n soft

neosaint99 - good job there i also done all except the firewall
for the floor why u didnt use 10mm thick insuflex?
for the picture, i assume is 6mm rite?

erm...i used 3/8inch for the floor
that works out to about 9.53mm
so i guess its the same as 10?

u got any pics or ur work?
would like to see other ppl's diy too
can share experience here

Wau... that's cheap, i remember i buy 1 pcs of 1/4inch sheet b4, he charge me RM15 for that. think i should try urs. wonder is it still selling at the same price. hehehe....

ahahah
no digi cam
actually the rough surface u should face down
for better sound Absorption

this is what i read up and also from logical deduction:

the rough surface should always face up
CA is a 'contact adhesive'
it needs surface area
the rough surface will not stick well as there isnt as much surface area
if it does,...then ALOT of glue was used coz it will need enough to fill the surface cells

moisture retention will also be an issue should water ever get in
i know its a closed cell system
but a rough surface dries much slower than a smooth one
coupled with the fact that it wont stick as uniformly as a smooth surface...the results isnt that good

and about damping, i think u r basing it on a sound room for jamming concept perhaps?
as far as sound waves go, the diff of the surface finish is too negligible to create diff damping effects
the surface would have to be very irregular to have a significant diff
this kind of sound insulation is not for sound wave absorption (i.e. vibrating air particles...which is wat a sound room wall does...deflects sound waves at off angles and also absorbing the kenetic energy of the air particles....thus dispersing them and as a result there is no echo and sound waves do not 'sustain' in the room as they dissipate very fast)
this insulation is actually vibrational damping...i.e. it damps the vibration of the metal surface itself which inherently acts like the diaphram of a speaker....oscillating up n down thus transfering kenetic energy to the adjacent air particles thus creating sound waves....the insulation damps this vibration....thus creating weaker sound waves...and the result is ofcourse less noise....


This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 9 2007, 10:45 PM

Good job!! Great skills in handling the DIY ...

Bro, hope you still around..I must say it is a very impressive works, congrats. Do you mind to share is this kind of treatment (full soundproofing) is effective against the LMST sporty and very noisy muffler? I am still suing LMST which comes with the sporty exhaust and wanted to do something to make inside the car quite because to accommodate new born baby. Thanks