glass wool is hazardous to the respiratory system
u should use insuflex or superlon
superlon is just basically the 'branded' version
i'm not sure y ppl say insuflex is harder n can crack n all
used it on my dad's car
its been like almost 10 years
still no prob
just installed it on my car
my bro helped me DIY all
if do urself very cheap
whole car less than 300 for bonnet, firewall, roof, entire floor, booth, and also including tar strips for the door panels
i used 3/8inch for everything except my roof...which was 1/4
the 3/8 comes in a roll...4feet by how long u want
the 1/4 comes in sheets....4x5feet

here r some pics of wat i did
i forgot to take pics of the roof
by the time remembered i had fixed back the cover d
didnt want to open it up just for the sake of taking a photo...hahaha
and bonnet n firewall forgot to take too
will take it soon n upload since its all still visible






















This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 7 2007, 01:31 AM

the tar strips in the door are behind the panel
taking out the panel is quite a hassle
will take some shots next time i remove em for anything
i just shot the pics for the firewall n bonnet this evening
hvnt copied from the cam yet
hopefully later tonite can get em up

if u plan to do it i dont think 1 day will be enough
u'll need atleast 2 days (with someone else to help too)
going solo for sumthing like this is not advisable
two people is just nice

stripping the car down will take about 2 - 3 hours
then gotta start tracing the bonnet, firewall n roof design with paper
once the paper templates are done can transfer them to the insuflex then onli cut
we took two days ngam ngam
n mine was the 3rd car we did
we've done our dad's car, then was my bro's...n now mine

the interior of the car is done on the fly
basically measure the length lebih kurang,...n cut abit extra....then start glueing from 1 side folowing the contours until reach the other end
then cut off the balance
this is an example where two people are good

imagine jus u alone trying to spread glue for such a large area
sure no time
the glue will be dry by the time u finish anything significant

but i definitely support u doing it
makes A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE!

before did the insulation n door tar the car was like a milo can
now atleast wen close the doors or drive through rain it sounds abit more solid


This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 6 2007, 11:03 PM

yup
i used the tar strips for the doors
2pieces a door
nicely covers the inside
i didnt take out the dash bro
too much work
i installed in the engine compartment je
i took of the steering wheel so i can have more space
much easier to work without it

btw...im not too familiar with all these technical jargon
err..wats a saga lmst? hehe

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Added on October 7, 2007, 1:35 amhere they are as promised
the engine bay firewall is the toughest to do
have to trace slowly slowly with newspaper
easiest is to take off all stuff bolted on to it
then masking tape a heck of alot of newspapers together until its big enough to cover the whole firewall
then use magnets to stick it to the top line
n a few more here n there to keep the paper in place
the slowly use a marker pen n trace the outline
n dun forget to mark where all the holes are too
even inside the car u must remember where all the holes are
if not later u wont be able to find them
n for the holes u will have to burn them out with a hot nail or metal bar depending on their size
coz if you dont n u try to just forcefully screw them in, the insuflex will get caught n start to twist with the screw
and it will then jam your screw and worst case is it will damage the threads of the built in nut which u cant change (i.e. you are screwed)

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Added on October 7, 2007, 2:01 amif you do the whole car, i.e. whole interior, roof, booth, firewall n bonnet,...bitumen strips will be wayyy more expensive
insuflex is way cheaper
can get it in pj by the roll

dont get the self adhesive for the bonnet
tried that for my dad's car
the glue gives way after a while n we had to used dunlop CA after that
n its lasted
my dad's car is 9 years n counting
its doing just fine in the engine bay (bonnet n firewall)

to diy inside the car u cant use SA
u need the dunlop glue to be wet so you can slide n stretch the insuflex during installation so it will fit nicely
if its SA it will stick on contact n u wont get it contoured nicely
the smell will be there for a few days if you use dunlop
but it goes away pretty fast
after you've done it and reassembled everything, just park your car in the hot sun with the windows down a crack for a few days
n every few hours just come n open the doors n booth for a few mins
it becomes barely noticeable after about 2 or 3 days....and is practically gone after a week

as for the floor, i'd advice to do the whole thing
the floor is one huge sounding board
once you take out the carpet n tap it u'll know wat i mean
same goes for the roof
memang milo tin man that wan
hahaha
a whole car will take about 4 of those big round tins of dunlop CA
they arent that expensive...bout 10 bucks each je...so dont be stingy!!!!!!!
use it liberally or it will dry before you have time to apply the insuflex n get it into place
n the insulation all in all is about 200+
so you can do your whole car for under 300!

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 7 2007, 02:04 AM

i got it from syarikat perniagaan acr sdn. bhd.

they are at 97, jalan 20/7, paramount garden, 46300 petaling jaya
u can give them a call
0378740254
78740258
78769521

so far these guys are the most reasonable price wise

the 1/4inch sheet (4feet by 5feet) was 10.50 a piece
for the 3/8inch sheet i paid rm143 for 1 roll (30feet by i think 4feet)

30 feet can do about 1.5 cars or thereabouts

correction about the glue price...i said it was 10bucks a tin
i actually got it for 14 a tin
hehe
sory
my bad

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Added on October 7, 2007, 12:33 pmplotong s/c?
wazat?


for the engine firewall u have to unbolt everything thats attached to it
then just let everything hang there
(i didnt take out the brake servo coz that was messy...so i worked around it)
everything else i unscrewed
then once the firewall is clear,...then can start to trace the shape

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Added on October 7, 2007, 12:43 pmabout the tar roofing compound, u cant use it in a car
there are special tar strips made for cars (which i tot u were talking about jusnow hehe)
the roofing compound melts in the heat
if u use it in the door panels or roof...or anywhere where gravity plays a roll...when it gets hot, the tar will soften n it will slowly detach from the door panel after a while
the proper tar strips can be gotten from the factory in nilai
its about 400bucks a box of 20 pieces
that can do 3 iswaras (4 doors each)...with some small pieces leftover

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 8 2007, 12:54 AM

sory bro
i finished up the tar strips d
did my dad's, my bro's n my car
ngam ngam
i'll try to dig up the contact for you
not sure who is holding the recipt

the contact i gave is for selling the insuflex
dont worry
its lasts
as mentioned...my dad's car almost 10years n its still flexible
granted,...its not like brand new lar (the engine bay wan)
but then its not crumbling or anything
u can still like rub it or knock it n all n it will be fine
just can feel that the surface has become abit harder
i think its coz if all the dirt its exposed to in the engine bay
coz the one in the booth still not prob
nice n soft

erm...i used 3/8inch for the floor
that works out to about 9.53mm
so i guess its the same as 10?

u got any pics or ur work?
would like to see other ppl's diy too
can share experience here

this is what i read up and also from logical deduction:

the rough surface should always face up
CA is a 'contact adhesive'
it needs surface area
the rough surface will not stick well as there isnt as much surface area
if it does,...then ALOT of glue was used coz it will need enough to fill the surface cells

moisture retention will also be an issue should water ever get in
i know its a closed cell system
but a rough surface dries much slower than a smooth one
coupled with the fact that it wont stick as uniformly as a smooth surface...the results isnt that good

and about damping, i think u r basing it on a sound room for jamming concept perhaps?
as far as sound waves go, the diff of the surface finish is too negligible to create diff damping effects
the surface would have to be very irregular to have a significant diff
this kind of sound insulation is not for sound wave absorption (i.e. vibrating air particles...which is wat a sound room wall does...deflects sound waves at off angles and also absorbing the kenetic energy of the air particles....thus dispersing them and as a result there is no echo and sound waves do not 'sustain' in the room as they dissipate very fast)
this insulation is actually vibrational damping...i.e. it damps the vibration of the metal surface itself which inherently acts like the diaphram of a speaker....oscillating up n down thus transfering kenetic energy to the adjacent air particles thus creating sound waves....the insulation damps this vibration....thus creating weaker sound waves...and the result is ofcourse less noise....


This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 9 2007, 10:45 PM