Mine is the same as yours. I only have 1 large dual speed radiator fan.

1) Usually it will happen if you don't switch ON the air-con when driving. That's because the coolant in the radiator is still very hot especially when you don't switch ON the air-con and hence, the operation of the radiator fan is only dependent on the thermal sensor at the radiator. If the fan will eventually cut-off after about 1 or 2 minutes, then should be normal. This is something which I don't like as well, but is practically the case for most European cars and PROTON is using BOSCH electronics. I find it really unnecessary to let the radiator fan to continue to operate since the engine is already OFF. Furthermore, the water pump is also no longer circulating the coolant within the system. Japanese cars usually don't have this issue as the radiator fan will only work when the ignition is ON.

2) Try to use a thin sewing needle to clear the ejector holes on the spray nozzles. Sometimes, it could be due to clogged ejector holes. However, if there is totally no water coming out from both sides, then it's most likely to be due to a faulty windscreen washer water pump.

Nah, I don't really think it's necessary since no additional heat is generated when the engine is shut down. As long as there is normal and sufficient coolant, no damage can occur. Even though some old version turbo engines do need to have a cooling period prior to ignition OFF, but this is being done with an idling engine for a few minutes.

The disadvantage is should the fan relay gets sticky or its contacts stuck, you may come back to your car with a flat battery.

Thanks for your valuable information. Since there is an auxiliary electric re-circulating pump, then it makes sense to have the radiator fan running during key-off when the coolant is still at high temperature.

However, I remembered that my previous PROTON SAGA, which is a Naturally Aspirated engine, will also have its radiator fan running during key-off at times, probably also because of high coolant temperature, but this car doesn't have turbo-charger.

By the way, I just found out yesterday that the Preve's stock radiator fan is made in India.

This post has been edited by winners8: Oct 5 2019, 08:55 AM

If you are using the air-con most of the time and the radiator fan is still frequently running at Key-Off, then I suspect there could be a problem with:

your coolant system
a sticky radiator fan relay
a faulty coolant temperature sensor.

If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir doesn't drop or does not need to be replenished frequently, then the coolant system should still be okay, ie: no coolant leakage. Suspect the other 2 possibilities.

You should return to the SC and ask them why?

That's why my 4½ years old PREVE Turbo, I don't even want to ask them about the CVT Damper recall because I know the SC will also replace the engine mounts at the same time, which I'll have to pay since my vehicle is over 3 years old and is no longer covered by warranty for the engine mounts. Anyway, as my mileage is now only 19,168 km, there's not much wear and tear despite its age.

This post has been edited by winners8: Oct 24 2019, 01:04 PM

That's why some of those mechanics and technicians in the PROTON SC are very unreliable and is giving them a very bad reputation.

Rightfully, they should have test-driven the car before handing it back to you. If they had done so, this vibration problem would have been obvious and they should have taken the next remedial action to correct this problem. But instead, they had either turned a blind eye to it or probably didn't even test drive the car after the CVT Damper replacement job.

This post has been edited by winners8: Oct 25 2019, 08:27 AM

I concur with "mr_geforce" above. Unless it's now already vibrating unacceptably, otherwise, you'll most likely to spend that additional RM500 to replace the engine mountings during the replacement of the CVT damper.

So, what car do you intend to get for your new ride?

This post has been edited by winners8: Nov 4 2019, 07:36 AM

Flush your wiper's water container thoroughly and make sure there's no residue inside before refilling.

Recently, I'll always get the "KEY LOW" message when starting my PREVE CFE. I have checked the CR1620 lithium battery on my key FOB and its voltage is still good at 3.2V. I had also used my spare key FOB, but the "KEY LOW" message will still appear at every starting. So, the fault is definitely not from the key FOB.

If any PREVE owners here have encountered this problem before, kindly advise what could be wrong?

I have just changed my battery to 80D23L since 13 September 2019. Previously, on the original RAMCAR battery, I never encounter this problem before although sometimes, it will also show "LOW BATT" message, but this is pertaining to the main (RAMCAR) battery.

Update: I unplug the negative terminal of the battery for a few days and plug it back again today, aka ECU reset. Now, it seems to be good and normal again with no more "KEY LOW" message. My battery was also good at 12.74 Volts DC prior to connecting it back again. I had also done the "Clutch Adaptation" operation after starting the engine. Hope that this method will resolve this "KEY LOW" message problem.

This post has been edited by winners8: Dec 30 2019, 05:53 PM

Not normal. Mine even after 3 weeks of no starting also no problem. There could possibly be some electrical leakages. One possibility could be the head unit which has a "life" cable always connected in order to maintain its radio stations setting.

If you connect an ammeter from the negative terminal of the battery to its negative cable, it may be able to indicate the current leakage. But do this with sufficient electrical knowledge AND WITH THE ENGINE OFF (NOT RUNNING), otherwise get a qualified workshop to check for you.

Also, Amaron batteries are not as reliable as many have claimed to be. I had personally had bad experiences with a replaced Amaron battery on my previous PROTON SAGA before. It had been replaced just less than 8 months.

Possible to be from your head unit or the amp (if you had additionally installed this). I know of some amps which will start to draw current when there is a signal from the head unit. It has no ON/OFF switch itself. That's why I wired my amp's power supply to the same supply from the Power Windows so that even if the head unit is faulty and constantly giving the signal to the Amp, the Amp cannot power ON because the Power Windows don't work with the Accessories at the OFF status.

Also, your dashcam should not be those that can record unattended even with the car is being parked. Otherwise, this will also drain the battery. A battery shop should be able to check the status of your battery and also for electrical leakages.

Hi, can any Preve owners here recommend Third Party, Fire & Theft insurance cover for a 5-year old Preve?

I'm currently insured with Etiqa but it has increased by 25% for my next renewal, but with no claims whatsoever and my NCD is still at 55%. This is really ridiculous. Previously, I had been with Liberty (Third Party, Fire & Theft also), and similarly, it's premium will increase annually with no claims whatsoever and the NCD remaining the same at maximum 55%. I simply don't understand how all these insurance companies work?

Thanks for some recommendations if possible.

Both should be able to. See what they will suggest and use your own judgement so that you don't get conned by them. If they should sound unreasonable, seek for a second opinion from another shop.

If everything is fine, then your last resolve is to try and start your car at least once a week. When you next change your battery, you can also consider a higher capacity one, eg: DIN 80D23L. I'm using this at the moment. My original (RAMCAR) stock battery had been used for almost 4.5 years.

This post has been edited by winners8: Apr 13 2020, 03:56 PM

Hi, any PREVE owners here has done the recall for "Upgrade Campaign CVT3 Service Fix"?

Is it any useful after this upgrading?

Yesterday, I was at the PROTON EDAR in Larkin (JB) just to buy a Stop Lamp switch (brake switch). I was only there for about 15 minutes and later when I checked on my Invoice upon returning home, it had included the job for "000001: PROD. UPGRADE CAMPAIGN CVT3 SERVICE FIX".

I simply don't understand how can they falsify a record into their Invoice when the job was never even done? To all those who frequent PROTON SCs, do take note of such a scam by them.

I have already written to PROTON CARE and ask them for an explanation. With this latest incident, I have no more confidence towards the after sales service of PROTON EDAR SCs. I cannot imagine how can they fake a job scope into their system when it was never done on the vehicle. Be aware to all those PROTON owners out there. This is giving them a bad reputation.

This post has been edited by winners8: Jun 5 2020, 01:24 PM

I was there just to buy the brake switch to replace by myself. It's Plug-N-Play, very simple. I did not even get their mechanic to come to my vehicle which was parked a distance away. The key FOB was all the time with me.

The PROTON CARE did reply my email to say that they are directing my complaint to the relevant department to investigate further, but no promise of a proper follow up reply. They just say that they appreciate such "feedback". Imagine they are treating this as just a "feedback"?

I'm giving them a few more days to reply, failing which, I will write to their CEO at lichunrong@proton.com By cheating like that, they are breaching and misplacing the trust of their owners.

Like I've said before, on March 2019, I was there to do the turbo oil cooler hose replacement recall since it was already 4 years old. I saw them removing my alternator which I don't know for what reason? Why replacing the turbo oil cooler hose has to remove the alternator? I did not even complain of any electrical problem. When I took back the vehicle an hour later, I'd realized that from then onwards, the voltage on my externally installed voltmeter (on the 12V cigarette lighter socket) will only go up to about 13.9V or 14V when idling. Before they remove my alternator, it was always at about 14.2V to 14.3V. I was wondering if they had swapped my good alternator with another vehicle and put the near faulty one to my vehicle?

Why I am very confident of their cheating because on my 3rd year, they had recommended me to change CVT gearbox oil. I rejected because my mileage was only less than 12,000 km at that time. When I was checking the servicing record for my vehicle on the PROTON App a few days later, it had indicated CVT gearbox oil replacement job, which was not even done and I also didn't pay for this job.

My trust in PROTON's after-sales-service is totally trashed by all these cheating from their own appointed PROTON EDAR Service Centre. How can they ever be allowed to do such cheating tasks and how many unsuspecting owners have been cheated already?

This post has been edited by winners8: Jun 7 2020, 09:56 PM

Yes, I remembered another forumer here had also said that this CVT service fix recall will most likely need to leave the vehicle overnight as it is quite a big task job.

This post has been edited by winners8: Jun 7 2020, 10:08 PM

Can I check with you if there's any improvement after this CVT Service Fix? Presently, my CVT gearbox is working totally fine and I don't see a need to meddle with it.