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 LYN Proton INSPIRA Owners and Fans Thread V68!, Source of low traffic: goo.gl/ZRQcSd

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iguana_tan
post Dec 7 2015, 05:54 PM

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you might check with other cause, coz Im using CVT also and not encounter this problem. our cvt already modified on stock as i know. usually i do a bit speed at plus all the way also not encounter this problem. I got a fren on 1.8MT CVT as well also no problem.
is tht:
1. correct CVT fluid
2. change CVT cooler filter (at the top) & CVT cooler gasket at bottom
3. reset CVT degradation like previously post

QUOTE(Big Panda @ Dec 7 2015, 04:34 PM)
Hi guys, I read from another website, people solve this CVT overheat problem by change bigger CVT cooler which is originally placed behind the fog light. They also move the CVT cooler to radiator there so can get more air flow. I am currently staying in JB. Anyone here can recommend me which workshop in Johor Bahru can do this? Just now went to one shop, they don't know anything about this T.T

Need to know. I always travelling around. So tension with this problem now.  cry.gif
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This post has been edited by iguana_tan: Dec 7 2015, 05:55 PM
Quazacolt
post Dec 7 2015, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(Big Panda @ Dec 7 2015, 04:34 PM)
Hi guys, I read from another website, people solve this CVT overheat problem by change bigger CVT cooler which is originally placed behind the fog light. They also move the CVT cooler to radiator there so can get more air flow. I am currently staying in JB. Anyone here can recommend me which workshop in Johor Bahru can do this? Just now went to one shop, they don't know anything about this T.T

Need to know. I always travelling around. So tension with this problem now.  cry.gif
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i dont drive a cvt, but i do use google frequently.

https://www.google.com/search?q=lancer+cvt+...ion+level+clear

http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/84msq....html#re.v/417/
QUOTE
The only catch here is that there is an electronic reset that is performed in the computer that requires a full function/dealer level scan tool to reset. This is the CVT oil degradation monitor. All this does is make a calculated measurement of the wear on the fluid based on your driving conditions; it is OK to not reset it only being at 48k, however it is strongly recommended that you have it reset anyway, as you may set off the oil quality warning before your next service (and then if you reset it at that point the fluid is no longer new, so the monitor is off in the other direction then etc).
http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/7spxz....html#re.v/417/
QUOTE
I do strongly recommend having the fluid changed (with Mitsubishi CVT oil only!) and the degradation counter reset as it is long over due and you will experience a better operating transmission as well as a longer life from it as well if there are no current issues and this is a false alarm.


oh and then there's an awesome link to a bulletin document!
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SU/super..._004216_cvt.pdf
in case it isn't the degradation level counter reset.

hope this helps smile.gif
Kirie
post Dec 7 2015, 07:13 PM

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QUOTE(Big Panda @ Dec 7 2015, 04:34 PM)
Hi guys, I read from another website, people solve this CVT overheat problem by change bigger CVT cooler which is originally placed behind the fog light. They also move the CVT cooler to radiator there so can get more air flow. I am currently staying in JB. Anyone here can recommend me which workshop in Johor Bahru can do this? Just now went to one shop, they don't know anything about this T.T

Need to know. I always travelling around. So tension with this problem now.  cry.gif
*
Ive installed mine eventho never had slow down warning before..mileage when installed 70k..now 78k


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Kirie
post Dec 7 2015, 07:15 PM

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QUOTE(vernard @ Dec 7 2015, 05:35 PM)
Bro still got?
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Check ur pm smile.gif
yangls
post Dec 7 2015, 08:23 PM

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QUOTE(woe.com @ Dec 7 2015, 05:47 PM)
Solution: Drive slower !!!
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whistling.gif i drive super slow d
vincent818
post Dec 7 2015, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(alfred liew @ Dec 7 2015, 03:53 PM)
there were cari members were looking for 1.8MT. thumbup.gif
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noted, let me go there and check biggrin.gif
howler
post Dec 7 2015, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(Kirie @ Dec 4 2015, 07:14 PM)
I heard rm230 remap is a lot better..more sound more power..sure wanna choose rm200 one? tongue.gif
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QUOTE(K3nnYkl82 @ Dec 4 2015, 09:06 PM)
Tenkiu boss.. Filter dapat dah
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Got 6% GST ?
rclxms.gif rclxms.gif rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
shelby_yong
post Dec 7 2015, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(Kirie @ Dec 7 2015, 07:13 PM)
Ive installed mine eventho never had slow down warning before..mileage when installed 70k..now 78k
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u got change the filter for cvt?

i just change to the cvt fluid to j4.. the whinning sound gone ad
Kirie
post Dec 8 2015, 08:01 AM

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QUOTE(shelby_yong @ Dec 7 2015, 11:06 PM)
u got change the filter for cvt?

i just change to the cvt fluid to j4.. the whinning sound gone ad
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All cvt related filters change..the bottom one at valve body is reusable..just clean it with petrol & change its oil seal..ive been using J4 since 35k km of mileage
shelby_yong
post Dec 8 2015, 08:57 AM

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QUOTE(Kirie @ Dec 8 2015, 08:01 AM)
All cvt related filters change..the bottom one at valve body is reusable..just clean it with petrol & change its oil seal..ive been using J4 since 35k km of mileage
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ok tq bro. i the j4 i bought from mitsu sc. that guy told me, no need change the filter.....

but the dipstick at the cvt there.. recommended j1 fluid only.... but i still hantam only
Kirie
post Dec 8 2015, 09:32 AM

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QUOTE(shelby_yong @ Dec 8 2015, 08:57 AM)
ok tq bro. i the j4 i bought from mitsu sc. that guy told me, no need change the filter.....

but the dipstick at the cvt there.. recommended j1 fluid only....  but i still hantam only
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afaik J4 superceed J1..some says J1 is better since it is made in Japan. I bet to differ as J4 is made in Thailand & the recipe maybe takes into account on our south east asia hot climate..

easy example: SDV1 vs SDV2, which one more knocking & more powderfull..hahaha whistling.gif
Big Panda
post Dec 8 2015, 10:44 AM

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QUOTE(shelby_yong @ Dec 7 2015, 11:06 PM)
u got change the filter for cvt?

i just change to the cvt fluid to j4.. the whinning sound gone ad
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Hi, what is J4? can you show the picture?
Big Panda
post Dec 8 2015, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(yangls @ Dec 7 2015, 05:18 PM)
can pm me the website? I also facing this problem  blush.gif  trying to solve it .
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This one. Seems everybody will have this issue after certain mileage. Mine happen after 120,000km. cry.gif

https://protonmalaysia.wordpress.com/proton-inspira/
Shooterz
post Dec 8 2015, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(rashidSelamat @ Dec 5 2015, 10:26 AM)
Normal.
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normal eh ? made me afraid to press on the pedal with that sound lol .

ok thanks rclxms.gif
Shooterz
post Dec 8 2015, 03:29 PM

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QUOTE(Kirie @ Dec 7 2015, 02:36 PM)
My rear absorber link also making sound now..obvious sound during reverse..gonna buy oem rear absorber link..those wanna order with me can pm me..4 slot only..eta 2 weeks..rm120/pair for rear side
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do you happen to change your rear strut bar ?

i changed mine to UR's , after few months of usage, the rear absorber link on the right broke, the screw is loose and the sound of metal clanking can be heard.

changed the right rear absorber link, the left one pulak rosak rclxub.gif , lastly changed both lol and the strut bar back to default one , no more sound.

the mechanic told me it's because of the UR strut bar rclxub.gif
Quazacolt
post Dec 8 2015, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(Shooterz @ Dec 8 2015, 03:29 PM)
do you happen to change your rear strut bar ?

i changed mine to UR's , after few months of usage, the rear absorber link on the right broke, the screw is loose and the sound of metal clanking can be heard.

changed the right rear absorber link, the left one pulak rosak  rclxub.gif , lastly changed both lol and the strut bar back to default one , no more sound.

the mechanic told me it's because of the UR strut bar  rclxub.gif
*
strut or anti roll bar?

and yes, keep stock better.
nzh0920
post Dec 8 2015, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(Shooterz @ Dec 8 2015, 03:29 PM)
do you happen to change your rear strut bar ?

i changed mine to UR's , after few months of usage, the rear absorber link on the right broke, the screw is loose and the sound of metal clanking can be heard.

changed the right rear absorber link, the left one pulak rosak  rclxub.gif , lastly changed both lol and the strut bar back to default one , no more sound.

the mechanic told me it's because of the UR strut bar  rclxub.gif
*
add not enough bar la, add more to be better and faster biggrin.gif rclxms.gif
Shooterz
post Dec 8 2015, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 8 2015, 03:35 PM)
strut or anti roll bar?

and yes, keep stock better.
*
woops sorry, anti roll. my mistake

yeah I think stock is better, cornering is improved with it but you have to bear the noises coming from the bar bushes. at least from mine

QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Dec 8 2015, 03:59 PM)
add not enough bar la, add more to be better and faster  biggrin.gif  rclxms.gif
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haha! +100hp ah lololol
Quazacolt
post Dec 8 2015, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(nzh0920 @ Dec 8 2015, 03:59 PM)
add not enough bar la, add more to be better and faster  biggrin.gif  rclxms.gif
*
thumbup.gif thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
llaw
post Dec 8 2015, 09:23 PM

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