QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Nov 3 2015, 01:25 AM)
mine still functioning well hahaha.
only as usual FC for saga is not something to be happy about, past weekend drive rpm nv exceed 2.5k, top speed also max 100 only. blower number 2 but aircon warmest level haha. now 4th bar disappear and clocked 312 km only haha. trying to see how much more i can milk out from rm50 worth of petrol
first time in 2 years i drove my car my mileage pass 300 and counting on a single tank of petrol. always drop to last bar at 250/260..

Come to think of it, my IAFM already started to have plobrem 2 years back, when Alex Thong(Ah Wai) told me and I disbelief. The trouble is, we've been focusing so much on the CPV damages, totally disassociate the issue with IAFM actuator, the heart and lungs of the entire system. People, please do your own checking as this is a guide from Alex. I do not know his LYN ID, perhaps r3apers / Mahihi will be kind enough to tell him I put this credit back to his contribution.only as usual FC for saga is not something to be happy about, past weekend drive rpm nv exceed 2.5k, top speed also max 100 only. blower number 2 but aircon warmest level haha. now 4th bar disappear and clocked 312 km only haha. trying to see how much more i can milk out from rm50 worth of petrol
1) Have your engine running for sometime, make sure you drive for a longer period where your temperature indicator shows on normal working temperature(3 petak). Without the warmup loop, your IAFM will be at optimal opening/closing position. At idling revving speed, your IAFM supposed to shut the short runner and leave the long runner opened.
2) Have your bonnet opened. Best if you're at basement carpark at less crowded place.
3) Get your ass off the driver side fender, put your head as near to the engine intake as possible.
4) Switch off your engine and observe if there's air leaking sound came from the manifold.
Reason for this, is the listen to whether the IAFM valve is sealing tight between the long/short runner. The long runner should be sealed tight from air leaking to the short runner anytime below 4000rpm. Idling speed 900rpm or engine stopped 0rpm, the long runner should not leak air at all. If there's a leak, it has to be from the IAFM actuator that switches the long/short runners.
May not be the most perfect diagnostic, but this is the least we can do. As previously someone mentioned, get the IAFM fixed before the actuator totally broken off from the valves. Either you get fully recover and last a long long time. If it's slightly too late, the actuator can be detune to open 1/2 IAFM for short runner after 4000rpm, good thing is, it's still usable and able to shut tight for the long runner for low end torque maintenance. This, will also last a long long time. Until it's TOO DAMN LATE like my case, the valve already broke off from the actuator... there's nothing I can do to salvage it
Nov 3 2015, 08:39 AM

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