Hi, I would like to buy Mitsubishi Electric Air Cond but noted that it has 3 types of refrigerants:-
1). R22
2). R410
3). R32

Which one should I go for in term of repairing. servicing (easy to get the spare parts), stableness(no easy to break down) and quietness(the compressor not running noisily)?

Any comment of GREE 1.0 HP non-inverter? 3 star power consumption making me hesitate.

Which is the model of R32?
So far seen on Daikin only , not too sure is it cheaper way or not.
Cause due to R410a will be shortage and price has been went up.

The bottom line on AC HP,  pipe diameter spec is the common factor that determines accommodating other models when changing.  It's common seeing or hearing stories where Panasonic 1.5HP non inverter replaced by a 2.0HP Daikin R22-inverter probably due to common pipe diameter. Even the Sharp 1.5hp inverter diameter is equivalent to that of a 2hp of other brands whereas most 1.0 and 1.5hp have common diameter. Same goes Mitsubishi Electric 2.0HP whose pipe size is that of other brands 2.5HP. Based on my installer's experience larger gas return pipes can accommodate smaller HP but never the way round ie smaller gas return pipes to accommodate larger HP. To accommodate, I take it that there are pipe reducing coupling adapters that facilitate this at the compressor and blower if smaller HP are used on larger pipes.

Thks for the insight. Actually the pipe run length will be the same. What you actually refer to is the diameter. The larger gas return pipe will have a larger diameter hence there's more volume to fill up. Thus more gas is required to make it up to equivalent pressure.

Hi guys.
Last saturday I appointed a contractor to relocate my aircon within same room. The 1st the air was cold until yesterday the aircon didn't blow cold air anymore. Also there is no water coming from drainage. Just now I check, there was a ice on the fin inside aircon.
[attachmentid=9074938]
I already contact the installer. Just wondering, what cause of this?

Thank you. If the gas leak, does it take time to repair? The installer that I appointed didnt come pulak today. So frustated.

any HVAC engineer here?
does the gas line must be vacuumed before being charged?


because i've never (ever) seen an AC tech carrying one of these vacuum pumps in my life.

none of the local AC installers that i've ever paid have ever vacuumed the lines before charging.
issit the cause that some of the units doesn't cool as fast (i.e working at lower capacity) like the panasonic ACs (thus making it slow to cool)?

Yes I've read that forced purging using the charged gas is not recommended and even illegal in developed countries.

Forced purging doesn't necessarily remove all the air, moisture and contaminants from the gas lines causing the system to fail over time. Usually after a few years.
And installers keep doing it because of the repeat business from all the failures because it'll happen after warranty expires.

The vacuum pump itself isn't expensive and the procedure when properly done only takes 15 minutes max and guarantees system longevity.

Modern air-cond doesn't need individual jacket copper pipe. Even the installation manual will tell you to wrap the supply line, return line, wire and drain in single insulation.

The air-cond pipe is small enough such that it can be flush with the pre-filled gas in new air-cond unit. Depends on model, the there is enough pre-filled gas for at least 10m of copper pipe. Beyond that you will need to top-up, and if copper pipe length is lesser then you have more than enough to flush the air out.

You can find this in the installation manual.

Buy from Jintex as they are competitive. AC unlike Genting or Kinabalu is based on condensation with moisture removed.

Nanoe is basically hydroxylization based purifying. The resulting effect is added moisture but not as much.

Either run at 27-28°C with 2-3 speed ceiling fan to bring about perceptible cooling of about 25-26°C. Moisture is removed but at a slower rate or if preferring colder - without resorting to investing in a humidifier - add a wide mouthed plastic tub like those use for washing clothes and fill it a quarter full with water. That compensates for moisture removed so the air doesn't feel too dry. This is the oldest trick which I've been told parents used for their young children to prevent their lungs from drying out too much.

Having moved back to condo, we're getting used to sleeping without AC as much as we can. The humidity is in the high 80s to 90s but the temperature can fall to 24-25°C. Only on oppressively hot nights do we turn it on.

Teardrop= dry mode
Cool mode= ice crystal flake

why need to switch to dry mode then off? sorry just know this tip today

Dry the fins and blower. Without which there'll be residual condensation which will allow mould to proliferate. Using the clean mode (dry mode) after cooling reduces this tendency. Sharp's inverter equipped with Plasmacluster during clean mode and at the final stage of cleaning directs its air stream laden with PCI towards the fins thus ensuring that mould does not proliferate.

Multisplit is good if you have space problem for compressors and cannot put too many compressors.

Few things to consider for multisplit:

1.All share 1 compressor so if 1 compressor faulty all AC cannot use.

2.Piping needs to be thicker & maybe bigger to cater the higher output for the single compressor.

3.If you buy smaller compressor it takes longer time for each room to cool down if turned on together compared to single units.

4.you need to make sure you are using all the AC's close to the compressor design output. if you buy a 5 system split unit and only use 1-2 AC the compressor will be running below half it's designed capacity thus it will be less efficient thus consuming more electricity, and also may affect it's long term run. it's like cars constantly stuck in slow traffic will suffer more wear & tear than those cruising at higher speed.

5.Last but not least if the compressor breaks you need to spend more money to replace.

hi i'm not sure how the piping connection works on multisplit, whether for say a 4 system compressor there's 4 pairs of pipes running from the compressor to each indoor unit or 1 pair of pipe from compressor then split to 4 pairs of pipe to individual units.

if each indoor unit has dedicated pipe to compressor then the pipe requirement is the same, if it's split midway then the pipe runs will experience higher pressure due to compressor pumping output for 4 AC.

another thing for multisplit units is if 1 pipe leak will cause the whole system to loose it's cooling capability. so it's not just compressor failure but any pipe crack/gas leak/loosened nuts can cause issue which also means troubleshooting is more difficult if really pipe leak have to test individual pipes and replace that pipe before full system can be restored.

Multisplit system = all eggs in 1 basket.

Ensure that each pipe is sleeved individually as it should be as done worldwide. If SG are doing that in their residential, no way the physics is the exception over here.

any feedbacks on Mitsubishi Electric's Mr.Slim?

just worry buy them later change model the mounting won't fit due to them being smaller than average the metal leg width might be different.

but they are really compact. any heat issues?

yup for 1HP, but the seller not recommended it, instead he suggested york. he said that its quite hard to find a spare part for this aircond if got problem + it is made in china.

nowadays everything is made from china, what's so wrong about it. i did some survey, carrier was top brand outside our country. but not so sure when it come to malaysia, btw thx for the reply.

not sure you guys got the experience, some aircond makes the surrounding air quite dry even it is not in dry mode.

i feel that if i sleep in aircond room, throat very dry.
but some aircond still ok to me.

Dear Sifu and Pros,

From aircond selection guideline excel sheet i saw Mitsubishi non inverter premium series 1.0HP is more energy saving then Mitsubishi inverter standard series 1.0HP. Correct ar??

And the total cost of 3yrs.. 5yrs.. 10yrs.. 15yrs.. how to calculate??
Mitsubishi MSZ-FH25VE the most expensive aircond only energy efficient for 1yr??

Please advise.

Mitsubishi MSY-GJ10VA is not so energy saving compare with its premium series MSZ-FH25VE..

Damn.. i should have bought Mitsubishi H.I..
Hey.. Hitachi also looking very good in energy saving..
But seldom got people talking about it in here..

Dear Sifu and Pros!!

PLEASE HELP!!

My aircond keep on blowing the air which have the smell of smoke at night!!
Because some bastard keep on burn dry leave at night!!

I thought my aircond piping at the wall didn't seal properly..
and i re position my aircond and make sure the wall seal properly..
but the smoke smell still come from the aircond at night..

i call the aircond dealer.. they said the compressor suck the air from outside and blow into the room..

is that true?? i call Mitsubishi CS.. they said not true.. only use the air in the room..

previously i use LG non inverter.. then change to PANASONIC inverter.. then the problem came.. then i change to Mitsubishi inverter the problem still persist..

if compressor suck the air from outside.. how come the aircond at my living room and my another bedroom don't have problem.. all compressor install using the same wall.. same height..

master bedroom: Mitsubishi standard inverter  = smoke smell
living room: Mitsubishi deluxe NON inverter = clean air
another bedroom: LG standard NON inverter = clean air

If it suck the air from outside then:
1. Mitsubishi DELUXE NON inverter compresor has better filter?
2. But my LG standard NON inverter compressor also provide clean air

OR NON inverter aircond have better filter??!!

Sifu and Pros pleas HELP!!