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cuttlefish
post Jul 30 2018, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(franklooi96 @ Jul 29 2018, 02:16 AM)
Hey guys, what are some factors to consider when buying a/c units for new house? Buying about 5 units.

I only know horsepower, but actually more interested in energy efficiency & consumption - what are some of the good a/c for energy-saving?

Also appreciate if any other factors to conside (besides price)
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all wall mounted a/c under 3hp in Malaysia must come with the Suruhanjaya Tenaga (ST) energy labelling
you can compare the estimated energy consumption per year stated on these stickers (unit in kWh)
the higher the number, the more power it consumes
cuttlefish
post Aug 1 2018, 04:44 PM

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QUOTE(Aphonite @ Aug 1 2018, 05:36 AM)
looking to purchase a brand new air cond soon, thinking between Daikin and Panasonic. I'm a bit particular about choosing one that can save electricity but I was wondering, should I take note of the rated power consumption?

I understand that it will not necessarily run at that power all the time but when I noticed one particular Daikin and Sharp model with a 500+W power consumption instead of the usual 800+W, i was thinking of the possible savings I can get just based on that alone. Is this line of thinking faulty?
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u may take the rated power consumption only as a simple reference
for end user, for now, it's better to look at the suruhanjaya tenaga (ST) sticker which publishes the estimated power consumption in a year
ST power consumption shown is based on actual test result, while the rated power consumption is a figure by manufacturer (can be purposely tweaked lower, as long as still within the allowable range)
for the ST annual power consumption, it is best to compare inverter to inverter, or non-inverter to non-inverter
also, please also take note of the cooling capacity of each model
a lower power consumption may also mean a lower cooling capacity, not necessarily mean that it is more efficient
cuttlefish
post Aug 2 2018, 07:09 PM

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QUOTE(Aphonite @ Aug 2 2018, 12:40 AM)
you mean those 3, 4, 5 star energy rating stickers right? on that note, i tend to find 5 stars only on inverters while non-inverters have 3 stars at most.
also, just wondering if you happen to know, do maintenance / service cost more for inverters vs non-inverters? and is the service interval for inverters lesser or about the same? smile.gif
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yes that is the sticker. try to look closer, the estimated power consumption per year in kWh is stated
the star rating is based on EER, energy efficiency ratio, the higher the better
yes, that is why inverter is very much preferred
if you found inverter with less than 5-star, just skip it - you deserve better
mitsubishi electric has 3-5 stars for non-inverter models
in malaysia, a model must have a minimum of 2-star
cuttlefish
post Aug 18 2018, 01:29 AM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 17 2018, 11:37 PM)
I'm in dilemma situation whereby I saw inverter 1.0hp aircond offers 11,200 BTU/hr at 0.9kW. My current 20 years old 1.5hp aircond most probably 12,000 BTU/hr at 1.3kW. So I'm thinking to replace with 1.0hp inverter, although it may run at max power 0.9kW, it still saves 0.4kW/hr, was this logical approach?
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are you sure that 0.9kW is at 11,200 Btu/hr or at the rated capacity?
another factor to consider is that the compressor would run at high speed most of the time
so reliability in the long run would be a concern
cuttlefish
post Aug 19 2018, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 18 2018, 08:20 PM)
It's max power, rated I think around 0.7kW.
But traditional aircond compressor also run non-stop at full power and no problem? Coz my living room aircond will never stop and we blowing the air directly to us. Or inverter aircond not so reliable when running at full speed all the time?
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non-inverter compressor runs at fixed speed 50hz
inverter at full load will be higher than that
for manufacturers, they will still honour their compressor warranty
but wear and tear will definitely be more at that speed
cuttlefish
post Aug 25 2018, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(alexander3133 @ Aug 25 2018, 08:23 PM)
Yes, I do agreed that, from the spec, the MSY-JP13VF model is not that energy efficient.
I do a filter among R32 1.5HP aircond, by sorting as EER, the model turns out has the least EER among all, even lower than non-inverter model.

[attachmentid=9991349]
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may i know where did you get the EER for MSY-JP13VF?
for inverter models, please do not manually calculate EER based on the given rated capacity and rated power input
as EER for inverter models is based on weighted EER
cuttlefish
post Aug 25 2018, 11:48 PM

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QUOTE(alexander3133 @ Aug 25 2018, 09:10 PM)
All the EER in the spreadsheet that I shared are manually calculated using rated cooling capacity and input power.
I do this because those are the information that I can get.
Some manufacturers website do included EER information, and some do not, therefore I just do manual calculation.
If you do not trust manual EER calculated value, just ignore them in the spreadsheet.
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manual calculation cannot be used for inverter models
that's the reason why u found that MSY-JP13VF "turns out has the least EER among all, even lower than non-inverter model"
this is not true as inverter models' EER is always based on weighted EER [(0.4 x EER@100% Load) + (0.6 x EER@50% Load)]
the EER figures in your spreadsheet for Mitsubishi Electric R32 inverter models are incorrect as all of them are at about EER@100% load
whereas, other EER figures for inverter models are weighted EER
as such, there are not the same and cannot be compared directly
cuttlefish
post Aug 26 2018, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(alexander3133 @ Aug 25 2018, 09:10 PM)
All the EER in the spreadsheet that I shared are manually calculated using rated cooling capacity and input power.
I do this because those are the information that I can get.
Some manufacturers website do included EER information, and some do not, therefore I just do manual calculation.
If you do not trust manual EER calculated value, just ignore them in the spreadsheet.
*
my apologies notworthy.gif
i have gone through your list again and that all of them are manually calculated based on the rated capacity and rated power input
therefore, all of the EERs in your list are EER@100% Load
based on this, it does appear that MSY-JP13VF has the worst EER at 100% Load
however, please keep in mind that the idea of using inverter models is that most of the time the air conditioning runs at part load and that, generally speaking, the system runs more efficiently at part load
therefore, we should also consider the EER at part load not just at full load
the ST labelling estimated energy consumption a year is calculated based on the mentioned weighted EER

example:
Daikin FTK10-T EER@100% 12.18 Btu/hr.W - annual consumption 1471 kWh
ME MSY-GJ10 EER@100% 11.09 Btu/hr.W - annual consumption 1489 kWh

although the Daikin's EER@100% is higher at about 9.8%, the annual consumption is stated to be lower at only about 1.2%
cuttlefish
post Aug 26 2018, 12:48 AM

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QUOTE(trust4you @ Aug 26 2018, 12:12 AM)
so does inverter plays a big significance in electric saving compare to non inverteR?
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example based on ST sticker info:

ME non inverter MS-HK10 annual consumption 2374 kWh
ME inverter MSY-GJ10 annual consumption 1489 kWh

inverter version uses less power by 37%
is it significant enough for u? laugh.gif

this labelling can be found on all wall mounted under 3HP currently sold in Malaysia
so you can compare them in store
cuttlefish
post Aug 26 2018, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(trust4you @ Aug 26 2018, 07:57 AM)
Boss but for inverter to use less power by 37%

1) it cools down the room slower
2) have to on for 8 hour straight and above to achieve the save electric effect,

cons:
inverter board (as claimed by many aircond supplier) - once rosak have to fock up around RM600+ for the board?
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actually, inverter is supposed to be able to cool down a room faster than non inverter as it is able to provide higher cooling capacity during the initial stage

inverter is supposed to help you save electricity even by turning it on less than 8 hrs, if you size the air conditioning correctly
but since inverter costs more, some would look at ROI
basically the more you use, the more you save
the ST annual consumption calculation is based on 8 hrs of use a day for 365 days a week
this is to provide a benchmark to compare between products
of course in actual use, each consumer would have a different usage pattern

each supplier would charge differently for boards
and it's only covered 1-2 years under general warranty
cuttlefish
post Aug 31 2018, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(dannyw @ Aug 31 2018, 03:02 PM)
Yalor. My Panasonic Inverter board out... after serve me almost 10 years.

Board expensive is 1 thing, not even got part for the old model...  doh.gif

End up buy new non-inverter aircon. R32 Daikin. A bit not used to it, as when blow is too cold... at night...  rclxub.gif
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any visible change in your electricity bill?
cuttlefish
post Sep 5 2018, 11:47 PM

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QUOTE(hart932 @ Sep 5 2018, 11:06 PM)
I have 4 units of Mitsu aircon (aged 1.5-3.5 years old) and the compressors for all the units have been giving trouble despite the warranty. Each time, have to get the installer company to check & they then get Mitsu technician to come over to verify again before changing the compressor. For each episode, the process takes 2-3weeks before i get the aircon working again with replacement compressor. 3 months ago when 2 units of the 1hp aircons started to konk & was making loud vibration sounds, I decided to stop messing with Mitsu. I  bought 2 units of Gree Lomo series aircon & I'm very happy with them. Fast cooling, silent & cheap. I came to know this brand while I was in China & was impressed by the cold air in my hotel room. Media, Hisense & Haier did not give me a good impression on their air cooling performance. My buddy also bought a Gree aircon about half a month earlier & he too was happy with it. In the past, I've used Toshiba, Hitachi, Panasonic & Sanyo aircons. Panasonic performs better than the other 3 Jap brands but lack of parts for old model & high price of current Panasonic aircon made me not to buy again. My inlaws were using Acson & York & performance is good accept more noisier. Today, my other 1.5hp Mitsu aircon stop working and I'm having hard time to get another Gree unit. Unfortunately, many shops are out of stock including Lazada due to the tax holiday.
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mitsubishi heavy industries? mitsubishi electric?
cuttlefish
post Sep 29 2018, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(JackThree @ Sep 29 2018, 01:50 PM)
Hey Peeps,

I'm urgently looking for this model:

Mitsubishi MS-GK10VA/MU-GK10VA 1.0hp R410

I'm told it is hard to find. Is it true? Please help. Will be much appreciated.

Cheers.
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just go to any store that carry the brand (TBM, ESH, harvey norman,...) and they should be able to order for you even if the store doesnt have ex-stock
cuttlefish
post Sep 29 2018, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(Bestsolution @ Sep 28 2018, 09:27 PM)
Planning to open a cafe in the normal shop lot, any aircon brand recommended? Should go for wall mounted or ceiling cassette? 🙏🏻 Thanks
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depends on your ID and budget
wall mounted type is easier to maintain, no drain pump involved, cheaper initial cost
cassette type may suit your ID better, need to use drain pump, but allow longer piping length, higher initial cost
cuttlefish
post Sep 30 2018, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(Jason @ Sep 30 2018, 12:54 AM)
I would go for Acson/Daikin cassette if I were you. More even distributed airflow than a wall type.
I thought cassette 2hp and above usually comes with built in pump?
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normally all cassettes do come with drain pump
"need to use drain pump" doesnt mean need to add drain pump
the need to use drain pump means another extra mechanical equipment to worry about when it fails
cuttlefish
post Oct 8 2018, 05:50 PM

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QUOTE(cheerz~ @ Oct 7 2018, 11:22 PM)
Hi,

Seeking recommendations for A/C.
Looking for 2 A/C ( 1 for living room and another for main bedroom ).

Initially, was planning to get inverter A/C however, as the A/C will only be used sparingly, not sure if it is worth buying inverter or just a non-inverter wiould be enough.

Questions:
1. Which brand is better? Panasonic, Daikin or Sharp? Currently, using basic Panasonic model. So so only, wondering if other brands are better?
2. Inverter or non-inverter? Mostly will only use during night-time before sleep for a 1-2 hours to keep the place cool before turning it off.
3. Going to be renovating the house, the living/dining area is long and narrow. So planning to move the A/C to be on top of the window so that when it is turned on, it can blow cold air to the whole area and not just limited to the sofa ( currently it is on top of the TV, opposite the sofa area ). Would placing A/C above window be more inefficient since the thermostat may get affected by the warm air from the window?

Thank you in advance!
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it's a condo right?
good choice to place the ac above the sliding door/window instead of on top of tv
shud be able to cool down the dining area as well
my ac is on top of the tv (design from developer, didnt change it), not able to move the cool air to the dining area without the help of an extra fan
one thing though, u wont be able to use full height curtain
cuttlefish
post Aug 21 2022, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 11 2022, 09:37 PM)
Hi, usually aircond blower outlet wind temp how much? After replace compressor feel my AC still not as cool as before, measuring about 18c on the blower outlet. Before this I never measure so don't know what is the suppose range. Technician told me the refrigerant pressure is around 150-160, R32 type, is this healthy range? Google saw should be higher 177 something above....

My room smaller 1hp AC with door wide open already 11c like that after running 15 mins...
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every air conditioner is slightly different in terms of the refrigerant pressure...if the technician has removed all refrigerant from the system to change the compressor, it is recommended to refill the refrigerant weight amount based on the nameplate (assuming it is not long piping where additional amount is required).

if you would like to compare temperatures, best to compare the temperature difference on the inlet (return) and outlet (supply). Eg: inlet temp 27degC, outlet temp 15degC, difference is 12degC.
Also, when you compare, set all at high fan speed, set temp lowest (force compressor run at high frequency assuming it's an inverter).
cuttlefish
post Aug 21 2022, 05:55 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 12 2022, 08:25 PM)
Guys, is it normal to have evaporator coil cool and wet on upper part, 18c; but warm and dry on lower part, 24c?
Or it should be consistent cold and wet?

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what brand is this?

in my opinion it is not normal, or it may be a bad design.
the huge temperature difference means that the refrigerant may already be in superheated state. this may cause other issues such as water spitting and sweating. May be caused by insufficient refrigerant in system, or just plain poor design.
cuttlefish
post Aug 21 2022, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 21 2022, 09:14 PM)
Brand P...
The technician came to vacuum the refrigerant again and refill it, if pressure set to standard 150 psi 4.5A at compressor, it's not cooling. Have to increases to 170 psi 5.1A like that only it's getting cooler.

I didn't climb up to measure the coil temp, the air was cool but not as great as before problem, also morning turn on aircond time will have water boiling noise at IDU for 2 mins.
*
is your unit still under warranty?
why did the compressor needed replacement?
manufacturer technician or 3rd party technician?
cuttlefish
post Aug 22 2022, 12:59 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Aug 22 2022, 08:11 AM)
Already 3.5 years unit, so left only compressor under warranty.

Few months back starting have symptom, if run higher fan speed and lower temp, the compressor will switch to very low power mode after just 5 mins of running, so I can only use higher temp 25c and fan speed 1, 2 for medium compressor speed. Then few weeks back starting not so cool, the air blew out just windy feel only, compressor refused to run higher speed already even set to lowest and full blast air. When technician came he said my gas pressure is too high at 190 psi so he releases to 150 psi, then is even worse the air blew out only 24-25c, he said it's normal but I told him it's not normal, then he proceed to claim warranty on the compressor. The strange part is why at the first place the pressure was high even though when newly install this aircond that time the technician only do measurement and didn't add refrigerant, and after years I also never get outsider to top up refrigerant also...

Manufacturer appointed 3rd party technician.
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did the technician provide you with the site attendance report?

190psi is indeed high.
could be caused by the system was not properly vacuumed last time, causing air to enter the refrigerant system.

hopefully, proper vacuuming was done this time during the compressor change. can just continue to monitor, if the performance is still not up to expectation, continue to file for complaint since the compressor is still under warranty.

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