We hear that a lot and it boils down to varying factors. Rest assured I've used them for over 10 years of various models in various places I've stayed. It's generally ok so long as it's regularly serviced at least once a year.

Also inverter AC pipes needs to be thick 0.8". Some models have extra communication cable between compressor and indoor blower. Manufacturers also specify safe distance from compressor to wall/roof/other so that they don't overheat and konk so easily. Some are specific that the pipe must curl one round esp Korean brands. Then there are workmanship and how skilful they install esp piping to compressor. Then there's piping and drainage placement, etc.

Most times, it's a combination of these.

Use good piping and hire a skilled installer and it should serve you well. My usage pattern for my kids room was set 28°C AUTO gentle cool with fan at 2 speed. 8 to 10 hours. After each use, clean mode ( auto off itself after 30 minutes). My service guy says blower and drain very clean. Hardly touch except the prefilter at ever service for 4 years continuously before we moved somewhere else. Mine was with a 2009 model AHXP10LV. The 2017 generation (at least 2-3 iteration later) refines the existing features. Be sure to choose plasmacluster inverter. There's a higher end inverter (ends with UXD) which is not necessary but there's a non-plasmacluster (standard) inverter with is not what you want. The one required would be AHXP10(UHD/SHV). SHV is 2015 model and should be cheaper if you can find it.

Good piping mentioned in post #5341 above. Don't care what your installer says as unnecessary. Just insist on it. It will pay for itself so long as installation is done properly.  Btw these type of piping are mandatory across the straits. My kid's room Sharp uses the Korean version of Paircoil.

Lastly, turn off inverters using the RC rather than the wall switch. They have complex circuitry compared to non inverters. On and off accordingly. After that wait a minute before switching off from the wall switch. That way will assure reliable operation.

Follow this thread which I replied and read the links therein. Plus this too. All the mounting brackets should be stainless steel and painted to protect from weathering. The surface it is mounted to must be able to support the load. Masonry red bricks is preferred to sand bricks which is hollow. More importantly, adhere to manufacturer's heat dissipation spacing from walls/ceiling/other compressors etc. Ensure that there's adequate ventilation for heat to dissipate. Their AC installation manuals tells it all.

Nope. They are painted over with oil based paint if compressors are exposed to the elements. I usually trust my installers to worry about that stuff for me hence I don't know about the thickness, sorry.

Nowadays, R410a but that's probably giving way to R32. R22 ended production at least a few years ago. R410a was expensive then as supply was scarce but should not be as scarce now compared to R22.

No idea if it is prefilled. I suppose it is else it wouldn't say in some brochures "AC comes pre-charged for up to 7.5m. Exceeding that, top up x grams per meter" or something to that effect. Call the manufacturer and speak to someone technical to confirm or ask your installer.

I think the more weightier take home point in that post is whether the piping to be reused for R410a, had the previous AC installed suffer a compressor blow out. If so, change the piping. Cleaning the pipe previously used for R22 via vacuuming and doing a leak test is crucial even if there was no blowout. I had to do that with my parents AC when changing to R410a.

Same piping recommended for R410a. R410a is 50% R32 and 50% blend acting as flame retardant.

Yes, even non inverters are R410a. Inverter has more complex circuitry, DC motor mostly with magnets. Thus it's more delicate and complex due to additional components.

Older copper pipes esp those extant before 1995 should be ok as their quality are much higher grade but just that the safety margin is much less due to thinner walls. But if redoing and willing to hack get good insulated pipes.

Did I say that? AC Pipes are almost pure copper. Brass is meant for water plumbing fixtures.

Get them to check as they do pressure leak test. Then ask them the pipe sizes. Write it down and post it back here.

How far do these piping run to the outside?

Hi Sifus,

Walk around HomeDec today and hunting for aircond. Comparing Daikin, Panasonic and LG (all 1.0HP inverter models), which brand will b the most reliable and low power consumption?

Thanks in advance.

Got Homedec today? where bro?

Thank you. I will upload some photos later in the week, so you can get a rough idea of the room layout. In the meantime, will check on insulation options.

So i need to manually measure the pipes??Usually when buy aircond we go buy first and only ask installer once they came to your house. If not compatible then if like you said, then you cannot install the unit. Aiyo.

No, not yet. I got my air cond guy to come and have a look at the room. He suggested adding an awning to cover the walls that are exposed to direct sunlight.

Ok, back track. So this is for master bed room and landed dwelling. Is the roof insulated? Otherwise tweak the heat load factor and recalculate cooling load if you haven't taken it into account.

Piping needs to be specified with your installer so that he can get it for you. If your in KL, just google the brand and the sellers are online.

I use MHI ion inverter with 3D air cool feature. They are quite good.

Inaba Denko installer available at post-1. Give it a go for your Daikin. Let us know your findings and review the AC. Good luck.

Follow the installation manual. Different model will vary. See for example Fujitsu one but take it as a rough guideline only.

Straight pipes need bender. Coiled pipes no need, installer needs to ensure that it stays in place. Perhaps it may need to be bent to keep it in that shape.

Existing condensate pipes uninsulated will develop mould unless it's behind tiles which will not be seen but doesn't mean it would not develop.

Leave the minimum possibly clearance for circulating air flow and most importantly to pasang the indoor unit and also open (lift up) the front access panel. Then work backwards. AC has flex tube for drain connection so no worries as long as the drain is below the pipes too receive condensate. The installer should know how to do it.

Inaba Pair*coil* is soft flexible tubing whereas Neopipe is rigid.

Bending done by hand although possible with coiled pipes will not guarantee kink-free bends if the radius is very tight. Rigid copper pipes should use pipe bender tools on the outset. It all depends on installer's skill. Coiled pipes although easier to bend is not immune to kinks at extreme angles unless the tool below is used.


Clearance from where to be specific? Ceiling? 4" minimum or more if the AC front panel when lifted needs height clearance. Left and right the minimum necessary esp if pipes are in casement and the first path next to indoor unit bends upwards rather than embedded/concealed.

If laid already, not unless you rehack or easier but uglier lay a new one exposed in the toilet and have it conveyed to discharge near a drain. Testing is as you mentioned. Pour it via some tubing feed bottle. If you are not confident that the drain may be clog free, one alternative is an have an exposed uninsulated drain pipe in the toilet which should be in front of the tiles as mentioned earlier. The AC insulated drainage tube just connects to it directly. If drain pipes are clogged and you don't want the hassle of extensive hacking, install a condensate drainage pump like Easi Flo. The installer should know. A flexi tube carries the discharged water but it still needs to go somewhere so they may drill through the wall to get it into the toilet etc. This scenario also works if relying on external casement in which case just run the flexI tube in the casement to have it discharge elsewhere say a common place if the runs are short or to a insulated drain pipe inclined to guarantee drainage to be discharged safely elsewhere. The other brand that does the same but is neater and can be 'hidden' is Aspen but hard to find. Like this one below:

If you're installing pipes using exposed casement, this Aspen model may be used if the drainage pipes are clogged.

You've ask this before and I mentioned it also. Support the floor mounted compressor as shown. This is a 3HP or higher compressor I saw mounted like so.
[attachmentid=9429119]
These are found in hardware stores and usually used to mount washing machines.

Thanks halcyon27 for the information. I contacted Culmi with no success. I'm looking for both piping and ducting solutions. Will try to look around for the shops that you mentioned. I tried googling Inaba Denko, 2 businesses appear, one in Subang and another in Shah Alam, tried contacting both but number is not in service. Do you know if these shops exist? I'm getting quite a number of items for multiple ac installation, so prefer to go directly to a more reliable source like distributor

alright thanks