Nope didn't ask about that. This was at homedec yesterday so pretty much tng only.

See the 360° view of the product on what I mean here. Where it's suitable would be the condo balcony or a landed home balcony.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 20 2017, 03:49 PM

Went to ask around and a AC vendor said, the pipe configuration (two pipes in one insulation) is standard, because both are "cold" pipes, unlike those AC that are "hot in hot out" then definitely need separating insulation...

Just pulling a fast one?

Read the below documents as found here and here. From them, derive your findings and conclusion.

Hello All.

In currently looking for a 1HP unit to be used in my bedroom. Three walls currently receive direct sunlight throughout the day, resulting in an unbearable heat during these hotter months. Over the last week, the heat has been so bad that the bed stays warm at night!

I've scouted some of the nearby shops, and most of the brands I find (Panasonic & York) are around RM1400 excluding installation. Are there any major differences between the brands? Salespeople here keep asking me which brand I prefer, and I really have no idea. Only thoughts in mind now is that I want to save on electricity consumption, so I'm mainly looking at inverter units.

Would appreciate some input from the sifus here. Please feel free to correct me if there are any mistakes in my post. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys,
I am interested to purchase an aircon for the living room. Can you guys assist in selecting the right size and type. The measurements are as follows:
Length 23 ft x width 22 ft
Ceiling 8 ft.
Area facing east west
No of people : 6
Usage : occasional use below 3 hrs
What size should I purchase and is non-inverter ok. You guys are very knowledgable. I’m new to this. Appreciate your kind advise, please

What's the room area and how high is the ceiling from the floor? Is the dwelling landed (if so most likely end lot or corner and any insulation in the roof) or condo (top floor or intermediate between floors)? Which is the orientation of each of three walls?

Very unusually large living room with low ceiling..sounds almost like some kind of modified cargo container dwelling. This is landed or condo?

Can you describe this space a bit more. Is this landed, condo or some other What's it made of: masonry (red clay brick), precast reinforced concrete, wood, mud, corrugated zinc alume sheet, glass, stainless steel sheet, etc.

8ft height is undesirable as the hot air zone is very perceptible at all times. Best is it's 9 ft minimum or as high as possible if less. It needs a few baby ceiling fans spaced out to where occupant zones are. No down light should be used and if it's 8ft due to plaster ceiling, suggest that as much as all that space can be reclaimed if possible say about 4" drop rather than 6" or 12" drop.

OK, I got a contractor who is willing to re do the pipe, to hack off existing and reinsulate the pipes, he said armaflex...
To hack my wall and reinsulate the pipe, before installing the new air cond.


non-inverter and 2HP / 2HP

My 0.26 cents by just a glance, what area that is "facing" East West? north south?

Approximately 10 ft by 25 ft. House is a terrace unit that was modified to add a single room with attached bathroom on the table be floor. The 3 walls that are facing direct sunlight are SW (10ft), NW 25 ft), and NE (10 ft). There is a stairwell on the SW side outside the entrance to the room. Windows at the stairwell and on the NW wall. Floor-to-ceiling height is approximately 7 - 8 ft. It slopes down slightly towards the NW wall. Assuming no proper insulation as the house was built in the 50s and the room was added on in the 90s.

This post has been edited by v1n0d: Oct 23 2017, 05:34 AM

Ok. Sounds like you're based very near SG ie JB. I would like to know also where to source for Armacell's products like Arma flex if you're actually based in Klang Valley. Should go for 1/2" or even 3/4" insulation thickness for the outside and 1/2" or 3/8" thickness inside the FCU. Be sure it's encased in white trunking to protect it on the outside from the elements also until the last part where it's exposed to reach the compressor. Hope it goes well and if you can let us know how it went and feasts our eyes with pictures.

Update: see the pictures in this blog as to the extent taken to insulate even outdoors with trunking casing.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 23 2017, 11:32 AM

What kind of roofing material? Corrugated zinc or concrete tiles? Sorry to hear this predicament but all this is classic solar baking oven 101. Perfect orientation all round with the right choice of materials.

Long term: roof insulation only 1/4 of the equation. The other 3 walls should have some sort of shading to mitigate insolation (solar radiation). There are many approaches to this you can use if the budget allows. Otherwise using AC is a permanent thing.

Roof - tile roof should employ Monier cool roof solution or Parsec Thetmobrite 3 radiant barrier foil, services provided by Dynaspec. Corrugated zinc roof should use a steel roof sheet with a fire retardant treated polyurethane padding underside for sound and heat insulation. Like this.

Walls is the main challenge as there are 3 of them. The simplest one is the non side wall: use wooden blinds that we see along most old streets out of town. The side walls will present a challenge as they are sloping. Perhaps the same can be employed with noticeable breaks. The are modern versions of that using fixed aluminium louvre vanes that shades the wall from the excessive heat. If there's any side that faces the garden if there's one, a trellis network that will allow creepy plants to climb can be a way of shading.

The other way is to use those steel roofing sheet with the fire retardant polyurethane padding underneath and attach that to the exposed walls like stucco. Perhaps regularly spaced square aluminium rods would be attached like how the western construction use firring strips. So long as rain cannot intrude somewhere that will encourage mould growth underneath it should be ok. This would prevent the heat from getting in. To augment that, before attaching that on, employ those double bubble aluminium radiant foil as a stucco underneath the steel roofing sheet with the fire retardant polyurethane padding. So it's like insulated adding skin to the brick wall. There must be a layer of air between the brick and outer insulation so the aluminium square rods acts as that. Care must be taken to prevent water intrusion and allow for moisture evaporation also. Hope you can envision what I'm describing.

My opinion is insulate first as no matter how powerful an AC, the operating cost long term definitely will add up. With this method, a 1hp can be spec and perhaps only turned on just in dry mode.

Without it, based on a rough calculation based on this post , the cooling load derived is about 20,000-21000BTU/hr or even more. That's a 2.5hp AC to deal with the peak load. I've known people in the east coast who sleep under similar conditions like top floor of apartments underneath the bare concrete roofing deck and their experience and sharing tells me out ain't healthy in the long run. Have to drink lots of water as they sleep under AC full blast and have to wake up to turn it off around 4am.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 23 2017, 10:10 AM

Thank you. I will upload some photos later in the week, so you can get a rough idea of the room layout. In the meantime, will check on insulation options.

Thanks for the prompt response.
It is a double storey link house. The living room faces the evening sun. The original ceiling height is 9 ft but the plaster ceiling drops to around 8’ 4”. I have 8 down lights. Btw, the living room has a sliding glass panel 7x6 and a 4ft window. You are right the unusual size is due to the inclusion of dining area as well. Should a non inverter 2 hp do ok.

Thanks outpace. The living room faces the evening sun (east). Non inverter is what I intent to get based on likely usage. Thanks for advise.

More like 3-4HP. Conservative calculation in this post to 30000BTU/hr which is within the realm of a 3HP. Perhaps 2 units with 2 or 2.5hp covering the living room and 1 to 1.5hp covering the dining one.

If you can redo the plaster ceiling like I suggested, LED down lights with built in drivers like this one are only 10-15mm thick. A 3-4" ceiling drop should suffice. The increase of 4" in ceiling height from 8' 4" also lends to a wider light throw angle.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 23 2017, 12:45 PM

Hello guys. First time posting in this thread. Recommendation for (Living Room +Dining space) with area of 30'9 × 15'2 × 9'3. Any recommendation for aircond. My living room already got preinstalled by sime darby developer 2 points for aircon. Not sure what's the spec for those. How to know? Also what brand? Considering my self midea for the cheap price. Can be easily bought from lazada without installation. Any feedback highly appreciated from you guys. Tq.

What's the area of living area and dining area separately? Any openable partitions between them? Based on this post, total cooling load could be just over 28,000BTU/hr. Something in the realm of 3hp total but to apportion, have to see what's the total area based on the dimension of each space.

The AC installer will need to inspect the developer piping and do a leak test (2 weeks) to check if it's leaking. Also based the pipe sizes, manufacturers AC matching that spec would be your only choice. The pipes can exceed the mfg model spec but not the other way round.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 23 2017, 12:18 PM

Area of dining room and and living room is combined. No partitioning. Hmm therefore by right i should by 1 unit of 2hp and another unit of 1hp aircond??

So i need to manually measure the pipes??Usually when buy aircond we go buy first and only ask installer once they came to your house. If not compatible then if like you said, then you cannot install the unit. Aiyo.