This one?

https://s.lazada.com.my/s.U5EQG

Find any wifi/zigbee wall sockets with type c ports?

Can buy from expo.tuya? Looks similar to alibaba ordering

How’s the shipping fee there?
If alibaba i usually just have them ship to china warehouse to consolidate

even with HA, our local Daikin AC cant be integrated into it. nobody creating integration for it, or maybe difficult or daikin doenst release the wifi encryption (something like that)

1. seems like nobody's making an integration for the cheaper wifi adapter  and the overseas adapter way too expensive
You can use something like this, flash with esphome or tasmota then use the homebridge plugin


This guy hooked up the esp to the ir receiver of the ac, so if someone was using physical remote you'd still get the current status of the ac

There's also iot dongle compatible for midea and others, but don't see daikin in the list
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/midea...acturers/320784

2. Maybe you can check out konnected if supports your alarm system

Anyone got the aqara fp2?
Saw some feedback/comments on taobao but no one’s mentioning about fan detection

most tech company in China prepared to be sanction by US.
like huawei n tiktok.

not surprised if they break the app for international users

The zigbee E1 (no neutral) don’t need capacitors
It’s usually the wifi type that requires it

No neutral version generally doesn’t act as zigbee repeaters compared to neutral one (there was an exception for a specific tuya switch posted a few pages back)

Presently no, at least until tuya add thread/matter support (probably another year or so)

For the 20a
Use any aqara switch + contactor -> ac/water heater

Like Max does

Should be similar to how this guy installed the contactor for his smart switch, just that you hide in the ceiling or somewhere else

https://lesterchan.net/blog/2016/07/14/usin...e-water-heater/

Using the no neutral hack posted earlier, i'm able to tap into existing live/neutral cable for the light bulbs to power those devices that require cable.
This way, I can hide those devices in the ceiling.
Still doubtful to use mmwave sensors in rooms with fans though, unless you cover it with some aluminium foil

If it's powered (not battery) then it's zigbee repeaters (bulbs, plugs etc)

unacceptable response.

Do not buy MOES UK Zigbee wall socket without putting thought into it.
https://shp.ee/4hrx7y6

MOES UK Wifi wall socket works fine.
but its MOES UK Zigbee wall socket does not.

reason being,the Zigbee wall socket cannot tolerate voltage above 250V.
which according to Energy Commission, Malaysian supply can go as high as 253V tolerance.

vendor solution workaround:
customer is to reduce Voltage from mains to make the socket functional.

Sorry. The fried ones are WiFi version.

Anyway, the Zigbee version, I put them behind AVR and UPS that can step down to lower end of 200V-250V range as workaround. But I wouldn't be buying more of them anymore.
As for their usage as extender, I cannot verify the feature. But their connection have been very, very stable.

Home 1. Separate network powered by Huawei B618 as backbone, specifically to control switches behind the other Homes and itself.
Hub, no usb extender. All the 9 * wall sockets and 12 * plug socket. Very stable, not reliable (as in, less than 5 of them can turn off on their own for no reason and never came back if no manual intervention. So I set schedule to turn ALL of them on every 30mins.)

Home 2. Sprinkler. Rides on Home 1 network as well.
Hub, no usb extender. Zigbee tap controller to avoid overfill if water-leak sensor inside tank is triggered. 1 wall socket to control water-pump timer. Very reliable, very stable. Why not straight spray from tap instead of using tank? Because we want to make sure there is stored water for at least 1 cycle if pump is ON during mains interruption. And, we can put fertilizer inside tank.

Home 3. General home and Fibre services.
Hub, 1 USB extender to reach far rear. Home alarm (i use one of those tuya "tablet"-like from Shopee, like it because it have remote control to hang with keychain), wall switches, wall sockets, (sun)light sensor (to limit auto lights ON/OFF at porch and in hallway only when it's dark outdoor), aircond, heater, water leak sensor (because the tap inside wall that controls water supply to sink itself can silently leak if i opened it too much, had that twice and it ruined the cabinet door being soaked for whole week, not to mention excessive moisture in home from mini flood). Also the heat-based motion sensor (previously used for alarm, now to switch lights on only when there is humans present). I think it performed unreliably at the far rear, but improved after I put USB repeater in the middle to Hub. my Wifi-based devices at far rear will have notice inside SmartLife app about signal degradation, so I assumed the Zigbee ones also have issue, thus the USB repeater.

Oh, the Wifi degradation, I attempt to solve with 4-node mesh scattered around WITH dhcp lifetime of 4hrs only (apparently the devices somehow gets new IP at random time, so if set for too long, the pool will run out and I will have lots of offline Wifi devices that never recovered until power reset at mains.

I use Zigbee USB extender. Why? I can plug in behind any of mesh nodes, which I have 8 altogether scattered around (4 for home automation, 4 for laptops, mobiles, etc.) Since, again, I cannot verify wall zigbees usage as extenders. And. USB repeater is free to switch Hub to repeat, but Zigbee wall swiches supposedly repeats only the Hub it is registered to; wall sucks if I need it to repeat for Home A when it is registered to Home C. Imagine "missing" your kitchen socket in Home A because you had to have it repeat Home C. Nobody woild miss a missing USB extender if you move it to another Home.

2 separate output terminals? Means if armed then 1 terminal have constant power? Brief power?
And when disarmed, another 1 terminal have constant power? Brief power?

Sort of like, you can put green bulb, red bulb as status indicator?

I don't know if there is any tuya device that can outright rake in 12V as input signal.

But i can think of using bulb for each of the 2 output terminal, then use 2 separate tuya light sensors to capture LUX value of the bulb.
I assume the output terminals are mutually exclusive. such that if light sensor A read a sudden brightness, then can assume output terminal A has light up. The same goes for light sensor B reading a sudden brightness coming from output terminal B.

Which alarm panel is this btw?

I'm using Paradox and been trying to see how I'm able to arm/disarm via HomeKit. I have the Insite Gold subscription but.. its pretty slow and crap.