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 Smart Home, Let's discuss

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Kiding
post Aug 24 2018, 01:53 PM

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QUOTE(kokwei @ Aug 24 2018, 11:43 AM)
Has anyone tried to DIY flashing of Tasmota firmware onto Sonoff basic switches? If so, may I ask that you share which guide you followed, and where did you source for the tools (Arduino FTDI - USB board), etc for the task?

Thanks.
*
you can get FTDI - USB board from Lazada or Taobao


Kiding
post Aug 28 2018, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Aug 28 2018, 08:29 AM)
Google Home Mini selling so cheap now here locally and with UK plug as well
RM200 can get already at Lazada
*
Ya...got my google home mini for RM180 at 11street 3 weeks ago.

Kiding
post Sep 1 2018, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 1 2018, 10:26 AM)
What a pain in the ass for those upgrading from V2 to V3.  laugh.gif
What sensor is that?
Yesterday night, my IR module for OpenMQTTGateway can use to control my TV liao.  rclxm9.gif
*
No need to upgrade smartthings hub V2 to V3, only added Hub's WIFI connectivity to internet, actually it is downgraded in fact, V3 CPU & RAM are inferior than V2.
Kiding
post Sep 4 2018, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(kelembai @ Sep 3 2018, 10:52 PM)
At the end, my bathroom fill with so many sensor and better use my hand switch to on and off hahahaha

Anyway if you easy solution just let me know
*
I'm using microwave motion sensor in my master bathroom, it works perfectly, a slight movement will trigger lights on, unlike PIR, it is 360 degree detection

The microwave motion sensor can be bought in Taobao or Aliexpress, Taobao is more cheaper, becareful if you get 5.8Ghz one, it could interfere with 5Ghz WIFI.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/220V-Auto-I...iceBeautifyAB=0

This post has been edited by Kiding: Sep 4 2018, 12:22 AM
Kiding
post Sep 4 2018, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 4 2018, 08:43 AM)
Don't detect motion lah. The actual name is Passive Infra Red (PIR)

WIKI
The sensor macam the Predator hunter eye that see Arnold Susahnakeja.  flex.gif 
Don't believe ah? Try moving a 'cold' object across the sensor and see it got trigger or not.
The Sonoff is just one of the way of implementing the trigger to the light. Same as the door sensor with On and Off code.
There is a lot of ways to implement smart home and it is just a matter of preference.
Yup, some PIR are wonky mia.  rclxub.gif
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PIR sensor has detection angle issue, it can only detect motion at certain angles, and sometimes if your body is cold (after taking cold shower), it will be difficult to detect human body motion.
Kiding
post Sep 4 2018, 09:22 AM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Sep 4 2018, 09:05 AM)
Can you please explain the 'Motion' part, please? How it works?
*
If the object emitting infra red lights is moving, then it triggers the sensor, anyway, it is not as sensitive as microwave sensor, such as it can't detect your hands are moving.
Kiding
post Sep 7 2018, 01:24 PM

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My experience of using microwave sensor

Super fast detection, a slight movement such as moving your arm can trigger it
Almost no dead spot
It could interfere with 5Ghz WIFI
Can hide in the ceiling

Kiding
post Sep 7 2018, 04:03 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Sep 7 2018, 02:17 PM)
Yes. The microwave sensor will likely use either 2.4GHz or 5GHz same as WiFi router because it is unlicensed band. Unless you want to use your phone during shower ......  laugh.gif
*
My microwave sensor installed in the bathroom and upstairs small living room, the one in the small living room has severe interference with 5Ghz WIFI, the entire upstairs network connection was like shit until I removed the sensor.

The bathroom one works perfectly, no interference at all.
Kiding
post Sep 7 2018, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Sep 7 2018, 04:15 PM)
Have you tried to change the WiFi channel? I don't think the microwave motion sensor occupy the whole band. Probably your WiFi is occupying whole band?
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I did, change from channel 38 - 173, still not work very well, but later I found i can reduce the power of microwave sensor, and it can reduce the interference, but I'm lazy to install it back again dry.gif
Kiding
post Sep 7 2018, 08:50 PM

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QUOTE(lucaswjk @ Sep 7 2018, 07:40 PM)
bro, how to calculate the load...
1. light 30W
2. ventilation fan 40W
3. water heater 3.6kW (forget to include this haha)

total would not more than 3.7kW, unless in the future i wan to include japanese toilet seat or cabinet lighting...

my MCB written 20A.
*
P=IV

3700W = I x 240V

I= 15.42A

20A MCB is good enough, if possible, add additional RCB for extra safety feature

This post has been edited by Kiding: Sep 7 2018, 08:52 PM
Kiding
post Sep 13 2018, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(kokwei @ Sep 13 2018, 10:54 PM)
Has anyone tried controlling their Autogate (DC Motor) with RM Pro? I tried to get RM Pro to learn the signals, but I noticed once learnt, the command can only be used once and subsequently it doesn't trigger the auto-gate anymore. I'm suspecting that there's an algorithm built into subsequent signals, which carries some random number that's only known between the sender (remote), and the receiver (gate control box).

Am I the only one?
*
I believe most of the autogate is using momentary switch to trigger open/close gate, therefore, what you need is a normally open (NO) type relay that act as momentary switch.

I have a z-wave 12V DC NO type relay, and through smartthings device type handle, I customized it to become momentary switch, and I connected the z-wave relay to the autogate PCB connector that connect to normal autogate switch, and it works perfectly.

sonoff relay is a good relay, but it cannot be used in autogate as momentary switch, because the relay input is 240V AC, when it turns on, the relay connect the 240V AC input to output, then it will fry the autogate PCB!

Kiding
post Sep 14 2018, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Sep 14 2018, 11:26 AM)
but if have that GEofencing thing where it detects your car coming home then okay
i think somebody has that here, forgot who....think Kiding
*
Yes, It's me tongue.gif

smartthings has geo fencing feature, so when I arrive at home, the autogate is already open, I don't even need to push a button brows.gif

My security guard said my autogate remote is so powerful, he said the remote can open the gate far far away, I just smile to him devil.gif

This post has been edited by Kiding: Sep 14 2018, 01:31 PM
Kiding
post Sep 26 2018, 10:50 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Sep 26 2018, 08:43 AM)
There are many switches that need no N wire. The problem is that finding switch that support direct WiFi with no N wire requirement. Most of the talk here about Sonoff which mostly require N wire.

The switch that require no N wire are usually:
1) Just simple ON/OFF switch
2) Switch that support RF remote 433MHz
3) Switch that support zigbee. (Well, you can integrate into WiFi as far as I know).

I think there are 1 or 2 product claimed to support WiFi and require no N wire.
*
Zigbee and WiFi are not compatible, although they use same frequency band, if you want to integrate to WiFI, you need compatible hub such as Xiaomi, Smartthings Hub.
Kiding
post Sep 27 2018, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Sep 27 2018, 02:07 PM)
DECT phone do comes with either RJ11 (regular old phone) or RJ45 (Ethernet) plug. However, the phone and Internet are different signalling. It also has different voltage swing. Devices used for Ethernet signalling will not work for DECT phone that reason, I believe.
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Never saw DECT phone come with RJ45, those phones come with RJ45 normally is IP phone such as Cisco, Avaya.

Even Unifi VOIP also using RJ11 for DECT phone

Kiding
post Oct 31 2018, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(robert82 @ Oct 31 2018, 09:43 PM)
Is only ipad game, which is why i'm curious why such issue, wifi speed can go up to 300mbps though.
Powerline doesn't work for ipad.
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online game is latency sensitive, not bandwidth sensitive, and WIFI is usually worse than wired, if you want a good latency from WIFI, get a reputable wifi router such as Asus router, netgear

https://www.highgroundgaming.com/best-routers-for-gaming/
Kiding
post Dec 25 2018, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(scy_krylief @ Dec 24 2018, 10:36 PM)
does anyone have the aqara 2-gang wall switches  (non-neutral) paired directly with a samsung smartthings hub? I'm going to try this soon (when my wall switch comes in) but just wondering if anyone has had any success with it.
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I got both types of Aqara 2-gan wall switches (neutral and non neutral), all working fine with Smartthings, but you may need to modify the smartthings device type handle code a bit to make the second gang work.
Kiding
post Dec 27 2018, 12:50 AM

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QUOTE(scy_krylief @ Dec 26 2018, 08:17 PM)
I read from the smartthings forum that it only is able to treat both gangs as a single input? Or did I miss the msg that states the workaround to be able to operate both gangs independently? Cause if that works then I'll straightaway buy the rest of the needed switches alr! Planning to change almost all the wall switches to smart ones biggrin.gif

This was the link I was reading: https://community.smartthings.com/t/device-...switch/101062/2

Also, one more thing.. Is it ok to install the wall switch before connecting it to the hub or should be done beforehand?
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You can treat both gangs seperately, you may need to modify the DTH code for the following on/off command, the 3 6 may need to change to 1 6

CODE

def off2() {
   log.debug "off2()"
sendEvent(name: "switch2", value: "off")
"st cmd 0x${device.deviceNetworkId} 3 6 0 {}"
}

def on2() {
  log.debug "on2()"
sendEvent(name: "switch2", value: "on")
"st cmd 0x${device.deviceNetworkId} 3 6 1 {}"
}


Install the DTH first, then install the switch.

This post has been edited by Kiding: Dec 27 2018, 12:50 AM
Kiding
post Mar 28 2019, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(TechieGuy93 @ Mar 28 2019, 11:31 AM)
About these Broadlink TC2 switches (no neutral required) has anyone had issues with them?

I've got a problem where sometimes the LED recessed lights (about 28 Watt for both lights in the circuit) started blinking or turn on even when the switch is off.

It has happened to two of my Broadlink TC2 switches. The weird thing is that I start playing with it, trying to figure out what's wrong then they start working. It's like by seasons they go crazy at random times and intervals, then for the rest of the year they work fine.

All the light circuits are properly installed and rated for the switch (the most loaded circuit is 60 watts and the lowest one 18 watts). Also all the contacts are solid.

Also I've had sensitive issues with one of them, so when you touch it, it actually goes into learning mode. This happened randomly for some days then it went away, it hasn't happened anymore for over a year, only once.

I tried installing the LED capacitors/adapter that came with it as per the instructions from some guys here and some info I found in Google which is basically connect the capacitor between the live/neutral (basically between both ends of the LED light) but it gets quite hot and I'm worried it might be a fire hazard...

Also at random some lights used to go into learning mode without any interaction (lights start blinking and then they turn off), but this stopped happening for over a year already.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome...
*
If you search the keyword Broadlink TC2 in this thread, you will see many people complaining this switch, I personally had it and now it is in my junkyard, nothing you can, replace it with normal switch or aqara two gang switch


Kiding
post Apr 20 2019, 10:30 AM

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QUOTE(th3game @ Apr 20 2019, 08:48 AM)
Hi sifus 3 questions for smart home devices.
1. Which one is better, need to be installed without neutral wire and need to be worked with google home. Currently got installed so many sonoff things ( Sonoff T1 for water pump with neutral wire,DW1 door sensor,Wireless Smart Switches for floor lamps,PIR2 sensor,RF bridge)

Wireless Hub : Xioami Mijia
Smart Switch : Xiomi Aqara Smart Switch

Wireless Hub : Broadlink RM2 Pro
Smart Switch :  Broadlink TC2 smart switch

2. After reading several threads here, I've been thinking to install sonoff POW R2 to control/monitor the aircond usage but need to have IR contoller also to centralize all the remotes (Brodlink RM2 pro kinda like). If I put the Broadlink Rm2 pro at my ground floor living room, does it  really can control aircond located in 2nd floor? Hows the coverage ya?

3. I have storage water heater Joven JH50 installed with 2pole neon switch. What's the best smart switch I can use here ya?
Joven JH50
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I don't recommend Broadlink TC2, Aqara is much better in quality and aesthetic pleasant

IR signal must be line of sight, you need multiple broadlink black bean

water heater can go beyond 15A current, so get a sonoff POW
Kiding
post May 8 2019, 06:01 PM

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QUOTE(teddysgame @ May 8 2019, 02:48 PM)
Hi guys, i have an idea for a smart home automation concept and i would like to ask you about it.

I always fancied the game Portal 2 because mainly of the character 'Wheatley'.

user posted image

It is a hanging talking robot that runs on a rail mounted on the ceiling.

The idea is to replicate a smart home automation system but with 'Wheatley'. (instead of a table top round bluetooth speaker like Alexa)

It will be intergrated with:
- Mobility capability to travel on the rail to you when you call it.
- Speech recognition to give it more natural command conversation.
- Facial recognition to recognize the occupants, master, and spot strangers and intruders. It will also look at you in your direction if you engage with it.
- Ability to control all your home devices.
- Send notifications to your phone
- Take out the trash (LOL)

So far, i think i am capable of building this first. However, just wanna get some feedback on what you guys think?

Is it a project you all will be interested in?
*
It is interesting, and pretty good idea, you will need coding skills with AI, robot control, I believe google ML could be a great helper, anyway, it isn't a small project, if you success, you can get really rich!

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